Battery

[morris]

evening all, I'm looking for some advice on batteries, specifically

- whether people think that mounting it in the bootwill cause me IVA issues. In my mind, provided I can demonstrate that the battery is properly secured and on a leak proof tray (stainless or other) so not going to melt through the boot floor and onto the tank and away from the filler so immediate contact with fumes, I should be ok. I think Mark put the battery in the boot in the current demo car too as he's got a full size brake servo in the middle of the built in battery box.

- Also wondered if people can advise on the amount of oomph I need. I've only ever bought batteries based on the recommendation for the stock car rather than looking at the spec. I guess the Amp rating just gives you an idea of how long you can turn the engine over before you run it flat given a constant draw from the starter motor? Or do I have to match it to the output of the alternator I'm using.

My main consideration for choosing something other than a standard unit recommended for the 325i is size if I have to fit in the engine bay. If the verdict is that the boot is ok then I'll just wander to halfords (only as I have some tokens) and buy a standard item.

cheers
Ian

[GreatOldOne]

I fitted a small bosch silver battery, which fitted the space and had a higher rating than the specified battery for the Beemer.

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/blog/20...an-update.html

I can dig out the part number if you want

[timbo]

I used this arrangement, which seemed to work ok...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3310545...in/photostream

Tim

[peterux]

I also used a Bosch battery similar to Jason's.(45Ah)


Battery leads terminated by marlinpeter, on Flickr

I am very pleased with it as it is lasting well and has caused no trouble.

I think you can work out the physical size from that picture but I can measure it up if you need. If your going to Halfords take your tape measure with you

On the IVA, I don't think there is anything to prevent you putting it in the boot, but personally I wouldn't go that route because of all the extra long length of high capacity cabling etc. I also would not fancy crawling behind the seats to get to the battery, to get it out or charge it.
Also the boot is not very big and mine is full up with tools, jack, wheelbrace, duck tape, hood, hood sticks, etc

[morris]

my main reason for the boot plan is so I can put a decent coolant header tank in the front battery box position. this will leave the front passenger side firewall/bulkhead free for a cylindrical fuel swirl pot and then the area in front for the air filter and ducting etc.

Just trying not to squeeze too much into what is already a very tight space.

The battery is an ideal candidate to remote as it is just cabling, not hoses. The other thought I had was cutting out a hole above the passenger foot well (where most people have put fuse boxes and ECUs) and dropping in the header tank there, kind of semi recessed. this would make better use of the wasted space in that area. again, locating the fuse box in a more remote place will be easier than hose related tanks, as long as I can get to it for hopefully infrequent maintainance

[MartinClan]

An alternative place for the battery may be the passenger footwell - as long as it is fully protected and secured. (It can also be useful for the passenger to brace their feet if you indulge in spirited driving...) I considered fitting a RedTop fully sealed unit which can be mounted in any orientation - although in the end I reverted to a conventional arrangement.

The battery doesn't have to have a huge capacity. Most of it will never be used unless you plan on leaving the car outside overwinter and attempt to start it when the temperature is several degrees below zero.

Robin

[peterux]

Well it certainly can be done...........


Marlin built Sportster by marlinpeter, on Flickr

I might be worth checking with Mark if there were any issues as I think it was reported that he said he wouldn't move the servo again.