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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #1  
Old 11th March 2015, 07:24
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8 Valve Ed View Post
What is that "Rivet clamp" in the lower right of the drawing?
The rivet clamps come from the aerospace industry and are used to temporarily clamp panels together during the riveting process. They simply fit through the rivet holes. There are two types - sprung and threaded. The threaded ones are best although the sprung ones are quicker to fit and adequate under most conditions. There are always plenty for sale on ebay - try searching for clico (brand name) or skin pins. (You can get some weird results from skin pins though ;-) ) I've used (am still using) getting on for a hundred during the Pembleton construction.

Cheers, Robin
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  #2  
Old 11th March 2015, 08:14
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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Thanks Robin, I was aware of Clicos, never met one in the flesh though.

I can imagine they can be very useful, and once you have used them, indispensable! I get by with a few clamps and bit's of wood, maybe the odd unset rivet but generally I don't use rivets much, I tend to assemble with stainless capscrews and nuts, with washers as appropriate.

There was a lovely blue Cabrio (I'm sure you know the one) not that far from here which had stainless dome headed capscrews securing the hinges. Beautiful and really nicely installed, BUT the screws dominated the panels and became a distraction, constantly drawing the eye. That's why I am going for less noticeable rivets which will be painted with the panel. They also help with the illusion of the originality.

OK, I have been thinking... Dangerous I know, I have been looking at the underside of the bonnet, and what lies below. I can imagine that with our normal weather there will be a problem with rain water dripping through the hinges onto the engine, carbs and perhaps more importantly, the plug leads/distributer. Last night I was contemplating the annoyance of having to cover the engine whenever I leave the car out in the rain, the rain here is full of salt and sand too. Neither of which I really want all over my engine etc.

Well I have come up with what I consider may be a solution, would welcome comments please...



This would be riveted to the underside of ONE side of the bonnet, probably the n/s, that way either side can be opened and it should deflect the water to drip down in front of the engine, or possibly behind if the car is parked facing uphill.

Off out for another day of excitement and joy! ;-))
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  #3  
Old 11th March 2015, 21:28
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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Another productive day, Done some more 'those jobs' I have been putting off.

I needed to do a couple of little welding jobs, the battery box needed welding up and I needed to weld a little patch onto one of the floor plates. Ordinarily a little welding would just be a matter of turning the MIG on and a few seconds later it would be done but these two items are aluminium. Currently my only way of welding aluminium is to gas weld it. Getting the gear out was the biggest job, I couldn't find the Oxygen cylinder, Michael had tidied up and put it in a corner where I couldn't see it. I have a very special visor for welding aluminium which allows you to see through the flare which is created by the flux. I had to mix the flux and set the gas pressures. I am no expert in welding aluminium with gas, however, though I say it myself I didn't do a bad job, by my standards anyway.

When I changed to a manual gearbox I had already cut the floor plates to fit the profile of the wider auto gearbox. So I needed to weld back in a small patch to fill the gap.



The battery box is made from 3mm aluminium, I folded it with the English wheel but it still needed welding at the four corners, mainly to prevent any slight spillage of acid spreading across the boot.



I struggled with the battery box a bit but I trimmed the back flange back to give me a corner seam and it welded up a treat.

Since then I have final fitted the battery box and final fitted the rear tub. The poor tub must be dizzy! It has been on and off that car a hundred times. Hopefully that's the last time I will fit it this side of the MOT. This means I can address the fuel filler and start wiring up the back of the car.

A friend has agreed to fold the rainwater channel for me, it's just too tricky to make a really neat job by hand, it will take him a few seconds to crop the metal and put two straight folds in it. I know it's under the bonnet but I am expecting to have the bonnet open from time to time and I want it to look neat.
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  #4  
Old 12th March 2015, 19:07
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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More of 'those jobs' today. I tackled the coolant bleed pipe from the manifold into the header tank of the radiator. Hopefully without provoking any more leaks in the radiator.

I attempting to correct a slight misshaping in the scuttle panel causing the new bonnet not to sit as I would like. I did battle with the fuel tank filler pipe... I won! LOL It was a swine to get lined up, in the end I drilled a 60mm hole where I wanted it and fabricated the pipe as required. I created a tank breather and tie wrapped all the rubber fuel pipes so they don't flap about and so they look a tad neater.

My friend called round to collect the metal to fold the under-hinge gutter for me, he thinks he has some stainless tube which would make a pair of tail pipes for my exhaust and some aluminium sheet to form the back bulkhead and seat back for the (occasional) back seats.

We move on apace!

Tomorrow I am hoping to collect a pair of air filters so I can start the engine and run it for longer than a few minutes... I can't set the ignition or the mixture until that's sorted. I also need to be able to feel the clutch because I am not sure it's clearing properly. I may need to alter the master cylinder.

According to my research the Rover SD1 has a 7/8" slave cylinder and a 5/8" master cylinder. It's an original slave cylinder but the master is from a Marina, which *should* be 5/8" Which should all work... but there is quite a bit of slack movement at the beginning of the clutch lever stroke which may be the cause. I found by pumping the clutch pedal I could engage gear, it MAY clear itself with use, but it may not... Until I can start the engine and run it properly I can't tell. It may just need a kit of seals for the master cylinder. I checked out Rimmers for an SD1 master cylinder and it was top side of £70, with VAT and shipping it will probably be close to £100

Off out now just to tidy up and check stuff over.

Last edited by 8 Valve Ed; 12th March 2015 at 19:09.. Reason: A reluctant smilie!
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  #5  
Old 15th March 2015, 06:09
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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Default Passed the 90% milestone

Yesterday we passed the 90% milestone, Michael my son has been busy doing lots of little jobs, like painting the fuel filter bracket (black) and painting the underside of the boot lid so I can finally fit the boot lid skin I made a while back...

My friend turned up with lot's of goodies! A sheet of aluminium to form the back bulkhead/rear seat back, my gutter which he has folded perfectly to stop water dripping on the engine, and two lovely pieces of stainless steel tube for the tail pipes. I need to bend them slightly to go under the back axle... That may be a challenge. I do know of a place with a set of power bending rollers, if they have the dies I may get it bent there, otherwise I will have to cut and weld but I don't have any pure argon to TIG them.

My friend is going to fold some thin stainless for me to make the bars for the radiator grill, I don't like the original Marlin supplied, kinked, 2.4mm ally welding rods that need knitting into a mesh.

I have started fitting the front wings, and discovered the supporting brackets are missing. I don't remember them although from the few photographs I have of the car before it was dismantled they were present. In order to push the job forward I have decided to create two fresh brackets.

On Friday I tackled the front inner wings. They were in a bad way, the o/s one was battered, both suffered from stress cracking in a crescent above the lamp bar attachment point, also star cracks around the lamp bar bolt holes. I ground off almost 10mm of body filler which a PO had applied in a poor attempt to mask the cracks. Once the filler was off I could see the full extent of the damage. I welded the cracks up as best I could. The aluminium is very thin, it was 16g originally but a PO has ground it heavily to give key for the filler and I ground some more off getting rid of the filler!!! I didn't bother measuring it but it remains no thicker than 1.2mm I am sure. With three passes I managed to weld the cracks reasonably well without blowing any serious holes.

The photographs show a pattern of pop rivet holes, a PO had riveted pieces of steel behind the panel to stiffen it. Apart from the tendency to encourage corrosion, the steel increases the front end weight which is against my principles, I like light and simple, so the steel plates were dumped long ago. Instead, I think I have removed the cause of the cracking by stabilising the inner wings by attaching them to the front subframe, which effectively stops them flapping about.

I used Oxy Acetylene and a silicone TIG welding rod. I find Magnesium tends to crack on cooling. The third pass left the weld pretty flat and nicely malleable with a little fettling it went in the English wheel and worked nicely.

This shows the extent of the damage. The cracks are around the three lamp bar mounting holes, the fourth hole is for the wires. I used a 40 grit flap disk to remove the filler, very effective but also very dusty!


A close up of the cracks:



After rough cleaning and removal of the body filler, the main crack was about six inches long.



After welding, not pretty but once fettled it was OK. I also dabbed several of the pop rivet holes but not all I was running short of time.



I will take another photo of the welds once the wings are fitted, time was catching up with me so I haven't captured any more images since these but the welds are blended into the panel now, not perfect but pretty sound I think.

Last edited by 8 Valve Ed; 15th March 2015 at 07:22.. Reason: Adding information.
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Old 15th March 2015, 21:48
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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The front wings are now temp fitted. The inner wing welding seems to be holding OK, I have today made the second wing strut. Has taken some effort, Michael has been filling some redundant holes in the fibreglass and I have had to supervise because he has never done any car fibreglassing before.

I had intended to do the riveting of the engine side panels and the bonnet hinge but I got stuck into the wing support struts and Michael the body filling, I decided to leave the riveting until next week. I may try doing the engine sides myself.

Here are some photographs of todays activities, firstly the near side inner wing. The weld is almost invisible now, it's just above the lamp bar, running right next to the top hole.



This is the off side wing support strut which I made yesterday.



And this is a general view which shows how low the front of the car is.



That's it for now, I can scarcely keep my eyes open... A long day, and a lot done.


# 3047

Last edited by 8 Valve Ed; 16th March 2015 at 07:37..
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Old 16th March 2015, 20:59
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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Default A Mixed Day

Rather an up and down day today... When I went out to the car I noticed a pool of oil on the floor around the n/s rear wheel. I had added oil to the axle last week so I thought it might be linked to that but no, it seemed to be coming from the backplate of the brakes, oh-oh. Yes, the rear wheel cylinder had allowed a tank full of brake fluid to leak all over my previously good linings and onto the floor without the car even moving. I removed the wheel cylinder and the bore wasn't good so I decided to visit my local car parts shop. I expected to be able to order the cylinders for later in the week. I was amazed when they rummaged on a shelf and produced a pair of cylinders, just like that! For £15 I think it was a NOS price given I am such a good customer of late. Fortunately I still had a little brake cleaner which I used to hopefully remove most of the brake fluid from the drums and the linings. Unfortunately when I looked in my oils cupboard I don't have any brake fluid...



And the drum:



I have also made another pair of brackets to mount the lamp bar on. It's now rock solid. However, I feel the headlamps are too far apart, originally some of the Alfa Romeo cars had three lamps, the outer ones closer together than mine are. I have checked out the lighting regs and it seems the edge of the lamp must be no further than 400mm from the side of the car. They are currently 360mm from the side of the car. I propose to cut the tab off the lamp bar and somehow create a pedestal, a vertical tube at the maximum permitted distance from the side and a bit higher , maybe 80mm? This would replicate the original distinctive design of the Alfa layout.



And:



I hope to make the top of the headlamps about level with the top of the radiator cowl. My next challenge in this area is to find a way of simply and securely mounting the headlamps on these pedestals. Now I need my TIG argon gas. Perhaps I can borrow some... Unless I can make the pedestals from aluminium? I do have some tube and a little bit of plate. Will have a rummage in my off-cuts bin tomorrow.

Supper and bed zzzzzzzz.

Last edited by 8 Valve Ed; 16th March 2015 at 21:02.. Reason: Minor edit.
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