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Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress. |
11th June 2006, 17:59
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Turbo driveshafts.
Hi everyone.
When fitting my engine, I noticed the small driveshaft would no way fit the gearbox due to the bending needed. This was with the engine as far right as possible. So to compensate, the engine has been tilted to bring the gearbox more in line with the hub centre line. This driveshaft is still bend a far bit.
Has anyone else had to tilt the engine for this small driveshaft?
I'm using the 220 turbo long driveshaft (outer boot died I discover today ) so will need to get this sorted or get a diesel driveshaft. But it's the short one that's worrying me.
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11th June 2006, 20:59
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I'm going thru T16 turbo driveshaft hell too at the moment.
My set-up at the moment is SHORT 420 GSi turbo and LONG 420 turbo diesel.
I now reckon the better way to go is completely the opposite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reason for this is i want to rotate the engine a LOT more to try and straighten the driveshafts.
"We" really need to sort this...i'll try and get various driveshafts and measure overall lengths.
John
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12th June 2006, 09:24
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John,
just tried looking on the Rover EPC but though it does indeed list all the different drive shafts but unfortunately not the dimensions so not much help I suppose. I can post a copy to you if you do not already have the EPC, but as I say only limited help.
Mike
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12th June 2006, 16:28
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hi all
I to fitted the diesel long drive shaft and have the short d/shaft off the 220 gti coupe doner the play seems about right but quite an acute angle. but it is hard to tell till its been on the road.
The motor factors i used to purchase the long drive shaft had the various rover drive shafts listed with the compressed length of the shaft so you could pick the length you wanted from the various models in their book
regards
tony g
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12th June 2006, 18:09
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Yep it's the short one that's worring me. The acute angle. I think mine is the same as yours Tony as mines is from a 220 turbo. Not sure if there's a difference with the 420 one.
It's a if the engine needs moving back a bit. which would cause a whole lot more problems for example exhaust and maybe gear selector rods.
I watched Mark Evans or on of the other programs on sky. But he was in a similar position with regards to engine position and drive shafts. So he used some device to connect the flywheel of the engine via a chain to the driveshafts. And hey it worked. Wonder if there is such a contraption that is available or could be made. Will do some investigation.
I think this is the one I'm refering to. I know it's bike engine sprocket (included in the parts list) and driveshafts. Now only if there was some way to connect the pg1 using a chain system. Sprocker on a inner cv joint. Maybe taking rubbish as I'm no engineer!
Can't remember if it was a mid engined bike engine install.
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13th June 2006, 09:05
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tony g
can you recall which motor factors had those compressed lengths?
john
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13th June 2006, 09:51
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Not sure whether they have the compressed lengths, but it's Woods of Ilford (Tel: 020 8478 6733 ). The young girl there know's all about Trev's long driveshaft.
Going by this thread,
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ghlight=diesel
Ther compressed length should be 960mm for the long one. Not sure if they have the length's for the short one.
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13th June 2006, 16:07
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hi john
Im afraid it was a local company not part of a big chain, but it was a suppliers book he looked it up in.
I am off to le mann 24 hr race tommorow but if you still need info i could pop in and get a few details for you when i get back after tuesday
regards
tony g
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13th June 2006, 16:28
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tony,
have a good time in le mann...luck *&^!
speak to you on tuesday.
john
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14th June 2006, 07:45
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Hi can someone post a picture of the short driveshaft viewed from above. Also with dimensions if possible for length and how much its out.
Measure from center of spline where it enters the hub to the centre of the spline where it enters the gearbox. Trying to measure the distance that the driveshaft angle it has to bend to reach the grearbox. If the makes sense!
Can't do it on mine at present as my engine is tilted.
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23rd June 2006, 15:42
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Just thought I would mention. I popped along to rover today to get some bits. There was an MGF in there have it's head replaced. So being a bit noisy, noticed the engine is also at a tilt.
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13th August 2006, 22:20
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The T16 is at COMPLETELY the wrong angle on the standard Marlin mounts IMO.
We were a bit worried about oil surge issues... It really is that bad...
Needs the base of the engine moving back about 3" from standard to get the base of the sump slightly tilted towards front, so front of sump is lower than rear.
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14th August 2006, 06:57
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Hi Grant.
I've been worried about this for a while. Worried that at motorway speeds, the driveshaft popping out and not wanting to guess what happens.
I have tilted my engine quite a bit to compensate the short drive shaft. Long one looks ok. Still not right but ok.
At a guess, the whole assembly should be moved back so the gearbox mount is wear the suspension strut is. Does that sound right?
But would this also affect the way the car handles safely?
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14th August 2006, 12:19
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Hi John.
I don't think there is any chance of the shaft just popping out to be honest.
The ideal engine position would be the same (relatively) as a standard Rover 220 etc.
Key thing IMO is to get the sump at the right angle so as to prevent oil surge.
These cars with nearly 300hp don't have pull some impressive G forces on acceleration I can tell you!!
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14th August 2006, 12:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grant620
Key thing IMO is to get the sump at the right angle so as to prevent oil surge.
These cars with nearly 300hp don't have pull some impressive G forces on acceleration I can tell you!!
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Not experience 200 HP yet let alone 300HP.
What do you think about the position of the mounts at the suspension strut? I think it would mean the engine would not need to be tilted (oil problem), the drive shafts would be dead straight. The problem is the work involved remounting the engine. Well for me anyway.
The other idea I had was leave engine where it is but keep engine level. And have chain drive to drive shafts like some other cars I've see. But don't know if this has been done before or even possible on the PG1.
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16th August 2006, 09:09
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Hi John,
Grant and I are to install a new uprated engine into mine.
I have been passed new engine mounts by Mark of Marlin. Give them a call.
The engine will be tilted far more than previous to straighten the driveshafts and improve oil pick position (surge issues).
You need the SHORT diesel driveshaft and the LONG turbo driveshaft.
This lot will be installed the weekend.
I'll report results and pics once done mate.
HTH.
John
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16th August 2006, 09:41
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Would be good to see pictures once you've done it John.
Mine is tilted quite a bit already using the orginal mounts. Will be good to see piccies.
I've already got the long turbo drive shaft. I replaced the short one with another brand new short one for a turbo as mine was knackered anyway.
Did not realise this was the diesel one.
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23rd August 2006, 12:11
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Just to clarify the drive shaft length issues...
the shafts are (left to right)...
petrol, diesel, petrol, diesel...
so the best combo is short diesel and long (but shortist) turbo petrol.
hope that makes sense!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5...eshaftsgb0.gif
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23rd August 2006, 12:41
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Just for clarity for me. What driveshaft was originally popping on Trev's and Brians's? Long or short driveshaft?
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