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Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress. |
8th October 2007, 17:24
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New rear setup information.
Hi everyone.
Thought I would start a new thread on the rear setup.
At this time, I have the bits but have not completed setup due to wrong discs and a problem with the caliper. Hopefully this thread will answer those questions in time.
First off, Parts list.
New top wishbone and toe adjuster.
New hub assembly.
New top balljoints, the same size.
New lower wishbone. Though this is not necessary, I opted for this as well. It has a screw in type lower balljoint (Looks like an MGF type balljoint) if you have the Rover Parts, technical CD.
New solid discs. At this time, can't confirm, but DR4000 from a Nissan Almera 2.0 GTI.
All suspension components are painted in dark grey. If your chassis is like mine and light grey, they will need painting as they cannot be supplied in this colour so I was told.
The discs need to be bigger than the Rovers which hopefully the Nissan discs will accomodate.
These seem to be the ones, though needs confirming:
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/p...2896%2D2000%29
First impressions. Looks a bit more stronger and the top nuts are easier to get at.
Please post any questions.
Last edited by limpabit; 9th October 2007 at 19:44..
Reason: spelling in Title.
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8th October 2007, 17:35
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Does the setup use the 200 hub centre, and the rover cv joint?
What are the problems you are experiencing with the caliper? Any pictures?
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8th October 2007, 18:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limpabit
Please post any questions.
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Is this the retrofit package from Marlin? If so it should be the same as what I will get first time around according to Terry when i asked.
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8th October 2007, 22:02
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Hi John.
Yes uses standard 200 hub and Rover driveshaft/CV.
The loose shock bolt is not stopping it.
The problem with the caliper is the caliper sits too close to the lower wishbone.
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8th October 2007, 22:18
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John,
Is there any reason you're holding the caliper on the wrong side of the hub? Also, the guide pins look to be at the end of their extension?
Looking at the design of the new lower arms, they look slightly more burly than the original items, but does the different lower balljoint design increase the interference with the caliper?
Let us know how you get on!
John.
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8th October 2007, 23:00
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John, what is the exact cost of the new rear setup??
I would source my own discs though!
I think I heard £250 banded around at lladlow
Cheers
Craig
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8th October 2007, 23:17
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9th October 2007, 06:25
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Hi guys.
Just held caliper there for ease of taking photos. I've managed to borrow another caliper without pipe connected. Have a few ideas for tonight. One of them, removing bottom hub nut, bolt on caliper, then lower top section and hub onto lower balljoint. See how that goes.
Top section and hub £299. Lower wishbone/balljoint haven't a clue at the moment.
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9th October 2007, 13:16
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I might have to puurrchaase the rear setup although the brakes dont seem to work very well judging by the discs at lladlow on the converted cars....
Not fussed about the front anti roll bar and making my car understeer...........(to improve cornering) this goes against everything I have ever been told,heard,driven,witnessed,read,seen,watched,hear d rumors about and instructed!!
Would much prefer a neutral car or if anything slight oversteer
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9th October 2007, 16:15
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The willwood calipers mount on the rear of the phase two upright, the oem calipers on the front....
I can only assume it has been done this way, to keep the bleed nipple correctly orientated.
I'm currently considering getting the new uprights, getting busy with my welder, and putting a plate on the rear to suit my Civic calipers (which should mount on the rear anyhow....).
Whatever the case, I'm going for the new setup, and will chop and weld to make them work for me.
The understeer statement is quite odd... i'm wondering if there's a "roll" missing before understeer..... which I'd agree would make the car easier to drive, as anyone who has driven an early S2000 in anger will testify (roll oversteer by the bucket load!).
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9th October 2007, 19:54
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OK got to the bottom of the caliper problem. Part me I'm afraid. The lower wishbone is very close to the bottom of the caliper. And if you have the banjo bolt in what I think is the correct place, the brake pipe fouls the lower wishbone. So this will need taking off and turning round to mis the lower balljoint, rebleed etc. I tried a spare caliper with pipes etc attached.
Now the disc. I was told by Marlin that I need a DF4000. Which is a front disc from a Nissan Almera. I opted for a rear disc from a 2.0 GTI Almera. Seems to fit ok and diameter leaves about 3-4mm clarance between carrier. Time will tell.
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9th March 2008, 05:23
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OK thought I would give an up date.
Car is now on the road and flying! Though brakes are a little spungy on this test drive, brakes are working great.
For thoughs that have the COMPLETE new rear end, top and bottom lower wishbones, hub etc, may get the problem with the caliper.
After speaking with Marlin though, could not come to a solution why mine did not fit. Ideas was I have different Rover calipers and me doing something wrong. But could not comfirm with pictures from theres. As Terry said they had to take the wheels off to get some pictures for me. But unfortunately, due to the move, they did not have a jack to use on the demo car.
So those with the new rear end, if you have a problem with the caliper, let me know. As I have a "fix". But it might only be me that has this problem, if Marlin are right.
I also want to take this opportunity to give Ian (Merlinman) a big thank you. With his engineering expertise and help, I would not be back on the road. One day he may post on here!
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9th March 2008, 08:11
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John,
Does the car feel better to drive with the geometrically stiffer components? The feel of the back end of my car, is the only thing holding me back from booking a track day at the moment.
I'm still waiting on my rear suspension parts. Very frustrating.
Cheers,
John.
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9th March 2008, 08:19
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HI John.
Can't really comment as I did not find any real problems with the old setup. Because it was not pushed much. Until the accident!
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9th March 2008, 19:14
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Does anyone have a final price for the complete rear setup yet? and also if marlin have any plans to make a variant for rover disc??
I emailed marlin about 2 weeks ago but no reply?? so cant spend my money
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9th March 2008, 19:35
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Due to the hub design, the standard Rover discs can't be used. Too small.
Price wise, Marlin change prices sometimes. But as an idea,
http://www.marlinsportscars.co.uk/ma...hp?article=138
So £299.
To this add for lower wishbones and balljoints about another £150 I would say.
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9th March 2008, 19:44
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John, when you say standard rover discs too small what exactly do you mean? Which part?
Craig
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9th March 2008, 19:47
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The diameter and the bore depth. Due to the hub being a different design.
Not sure if you have seen the new hobs.
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=1599
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9th March 2008, 19:49
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I don't know the reasons why, but the new hubs are designed to work with an Almera GTI (N15) rear disc, which is 258mm in diameter, which is very similar to the high power ZR / ZS 260mm rear disc. However, the Rover disc has an offset of approx 48 mm (from memory), and the Almera disc is about 35 mm (again from memory).
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9th March 2008, 21:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alackofspeed
I don't know the reasons why, but the new hubs are designed to work with an Almera GTI (N15) rear disc, which is 258mm in diameter, which is very similar to the high power ZR / ZS 260mm rear disc.
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This is what I was wanting to know don't understand why the hubs were not designed to accomodate the standard rover 260mm discs.
I would like the new setup but just trying to justify it to myself and breaking it down it looks like £299 plus vat!!! a guess by John of £150 plus vat!!! for lower wishbones plus postage £15 plus £160 to replace rear discs
So roughly £710! maybe more
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