Build progress - Page 7

Rich · #**121** 29th October 2006, 20:10

The exhaust has been tacked into place thanks to Black-Cat (from TalkAudio.co.uk)! A little work will be needed to align all the parts, once the exhaust is in the correct place it will be fully welded and ready for the first sound test

The wiring is close to being finished with the completion of the reverse switch, internal heater and radiator fan wiring. Just waiting for a interior light control unit to complete wiring loom.

Patrick · #**122** 1st January 2007, 18:39

The exhaust mock up is finally finished! After a complete disaster last year with a shop in Southampton that didnt do their job we've changed plans and created our own exhaust with a BTB 6 branch manifold and two Magnaflow glass packs. The rest of the piping is made of Jetex stainless universal parts.

This week we finished the mock up on the exhaust! Due to Richard's Compact project we've got a MIG welder now! This meant that we could tack weld the bits together! It needed the 35 degree angle replacing with a 45 as the back box on the Y pipe ended up sitting far too far back and there wasn't enough straight parts to move it far enough in. With the 45 everything now fits with just enough adjustment room to get the back boxes aligned.

At some point soon we'll take the parts than need the welding finished off to Black-Cat (a talkaudio regular) who will finish it off properly - not quite read to make nice stainless welds yet after about an hours practice!

We've also re-done the brake pipes at the front and fitted the BMW master cylinder with adapter plate

Patrick · #**123** 6th January 2007, 20:58

The exhaust is installed, and it sounds great! Possibly a bit loud for SVA. Will test it with DB plugs from Jetex, or possibly install some extra mufflers. But first we'll dig out an SPL meter and see what it reads!

Here is the video: Exhaust Video 12Mb Xvid / MP3

Patrick · #**124** 7th January 2007, 14:30

We were playing with a db meter today (Radio Shack!) and on the a weight setting it's idling around 80db 40cm back at a slight angle. On the way up to 4000rpm it peaks over 100db and at 4000 it is in the high 90's. Will really need to keep a close eye on that and do some research on exact testing conditions for SVA. I think it's pretty boarder line right now. I did find blocking one of each of the pipes on either side with my hand made it significantly quieter (by ear anyway) So I may just need to block those off for the test

Patrick · #**125** 9th January 2007, 19:26

DB plugs, not really the answer they just make the exhaust resonate really, really badly and it doesn't really seem any quieter!

I think blocking or one exit per box initially and a pile of steel wool should do it!

Patrick · #**126** 13th January 2007, 21:36

Possible solution for reduced brake travel due to fitting the BMW master cylinder with adapter plate:

Seems ok from a dry run without fluid or servo. Full test will have to wait until I've put fluid back in the system. Going to need to glue this in place some how, probably with silicone sealer. Given the shroud (?) is so big on the BMW master cylinder I can see this ever falling out, but it could reposition depending on the speed at white the piston retracts when you lift your foot off the brake.

Refitted the tank today with rubber strips and added two additional exhaust hangers just behind the seats. That makes 4 hangers at the back and the one on the gearbox which should be enough fail safes if any of them go.

There should be more than enough room between the tank and the mufflers now. Just need to add a head shield above each one and the exhaust will be done.. or maybe not....

....spent a bit of time experimenting with noise levels - admittedly inside the garage as the weather was pants!

Seems the carbon box is very, very loud! I put the stock air box on the end in addition to the carbon one and the volume when down considerably! May have to re-think that for SVA - or even add the stock airbox for the test if I can fit it in!

The exhaust is pretty loud, and I think I may buy two extra mufflers, this time from Jetex and I can't seem to get the magnaflow models I'm after in the UK. The Jetex ones are also a straight through design so I should think it wouldn't have too adverse an effect on the performance of the engine, I think my head will thank me after a longer trip.

If I do want to take it on any track day I think I would get black flagged pretty quickly with the current set-up - wish I could take it for a real world test drive on the road but that is a bit of an issue - as you would expect!

More noise testing tomorrow if the weather is better

Patrick · #**127** 14th January 2007, 14:33

Done more testing outside and its a lot better out there. If you stand back on idle its not bad at all. Im not going to add any extra mufflers, but possibly do the brillo pad trick for SVA and block two of the exits. Might see if I can do something to quieten the intake as well.

MartinClan · #**128** 14th January 2007, 16:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick

Possible solution for reduced brake travel due to fitting the BMW master cylinder with adapter plate:

Not sure I would want to rely on something like that myself. If it got wedged somehow (unlikely I must admit - but there is always sod's law to take into account) you might end up having no brakes or brakes that won't come off.

If you can wait a couple of weeks I will contact the little engineering workshop I know and see if I can get a few "adapters" made. I am sure I still have the drawing that I made when I intially looked at it. I will scan it and post it up on my website to make sure it is also the same as what you require.

Cheers

Robin

JG · #**129** 14th January 2007, 16:39

I've often thought if it would be worthwhile having a pool of 'Madabout tools' that could be hired out for tasks such as this.

For example if this tool was suitable (I'm no sound guru so I don't know)

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/ishop/923/shopscr4408.html

then maybe it's something Madabout could buy and hire out at say £10 a pop (with deposit)

What say you? Plus any suggestions for tools that would come in handy - bearing in mind the weight issue as it would all have to be done via mail.

John

JG · #**130** 14th January 2007, 16:39

Oops, double post

Patrick · #**131** 14th January 2007, 18:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Not sure I would want to rely on something like that myself. If it got wedged somehow (unlikely I must admit - but there is always sod's law to take into account) you might end up having no brakes or brakes that won't come off.

If you can wait a couple of weeks I will contact the little engineering workshop I know and see if I can get a few "adapters" made. I am sure I still have the drawing that I made when I intially looked at it. I will scan it and post it up on my website to make sure it is also the same as what you require.

Cheers

Robin

I know what you mean, I try this as an experiment but the factor of sods law often crops up. The most likely scenario for this is that the brakes end up jammed on. Even if it were to somehow drop out the brake will still work, its just the effectiveness would be reduced

But yeah please I would like one when you get them made - thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by JG

I've often thought if it would be worthwhile having a pool of 'Madabout tools' that could be hired out for tasks such as this.

For example if this tool was suitable (I'm no sound guru so I don't know)

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/ishop/923/shopscr4408.html

then maybe it's something Madabout could buy and hire out at say £10 a pop (with deposit)

What say you? Plus any suggestions for tools that would come in handy - bearing in mind the weight issue as it would all have to be done via mail.

John

John, sounds like a great idea, I've no idea how accurate the the SPL meter is that I've got but it's about 10months older than I am! If coupled with exact instructions to simulate an SVA test it would be an excellent service - retest due to noise would be a bit of bummer

JG · #**132** 14th January 2007, 19:06

Actually that does throw up some issues, ie, insurance required (should you injure yourself whilst using the tools), sue madabout when your kit fails on noise level after using the tool. Could be a minefield. Perhaps not such a good idea after all.

John

Patrick · #**133** 14th January 2007, 19:10

Well if you had a long enough disclaimer I guess, then there always the issue of things getting damaged

Patrick · #**134** 11th February 2007, 16:55

Been a bit of a slow month really, but after much shouting at it I've wrapped the manifold:

It was pretty, but noisy and hot - this was the solution! Heat wrap what a PITA messy job that was! I highly recommend using gloves and a mask as the fibres go everywhere!

6 branch wrapped

Still looks pretty with the wrap on it!

and a bit of wheel size testing:

I've done a bit of experimenting with the rear wheel off my daily driver. It's a 9Jx17 with 245/40/R17 tyre.

9J x 17 with 245/40/R17 tyres - damn good look from the back!

Fits under the arch quite well

Nice look from the side

... but here is the problem! The tyre rubs on the side of the bodywork. Our body work sticks a bit further out than normal due to the coil over install. I don't think it is practical to use an alloy bigger than 8.5J. You might get away with a 235 width tyre on a 9J rim but its very, very close.

Here's a comparison of size between the 9J and the standard E30 7J with 205/65/R15

Patrick · #**135** 17th February 2007, 16:55

I pulled the injectors out of the engine today as part of trying to track down the high idle on the engine. The o-rings pretty much fell to pieces after prodding them a bit. So I'm guessing there will have been a vacuum leak from there.

Also one of the injectors wasn't spraying as well as the others. Put them in the in the ultra sonic cleaner for a good while. Unfortunately my local parts desk was closed by the time I needed new o-rings so running will have to wait until I get new ones!

I highly recommend pulling the injectors, cleaning them (or get them cleaned) and replacing the o-rings on such an old engine!

peterux · #**136** 17th February 2007, 21:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick

I highly recommend pulling the injectors, cleaning them (or get them cleaned) and replacing the o-rings on such an old engine!

Absolutely agree, Patrck. I had mine cleaned and tested at this place.

http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/injectors.htm

Good fast service.

Patrick · #**137** 18th February 2007, 16:55

Adapter that Robin sent me for the brake servo to master cylinder, now with the edge machined down to match the silicon mould I managed to create with my previous "botch job" solution!

Tank out again! The final time I hope! Time to mount the heat shield.

Heat shield in place - this will keep the heat of the exhaust away from the tank.

View from the back, hopefully the body will cover the shield so you can't see it

Time to Fix the old HT lead holder-y-me-jig - I did get another one of these second hand but it was banana shaped and was positioned closer to the exhaust - perhapse it was from a pre face lift. Anyway I decided to fix this one by making new feet for it.

All the brake parts back in place

And sorry didn't have time to have another play with 9J rims on the back, next weekend I hope!

Patrick · #**138** 22nd February 2007, 21:13

Got new injector O-rings today. It was a bit of a bugger getting the new o-rings on the injectors, but fitting the injectors into the rail was easy with a bit of help from the wd40. Dropping the whole rail + injectors back on the manifold was pretty easy too. I had cleaned out all 6 holes with brake cleaner and then greased up with wd40.

The tank is now also plumbed in, so no more green petrol can with vapours everywhere!

On the plus side the engine runs a heck of a lot smoother and quieter. On the negative the idle still shows too high. Time to start hunting for electrical issues, it could be the idle is fine and it just the gauge showing wrong

I think it may be time to head back to doing some actual building otherwise the car will never get done

there's always be time to sort that later, the main thing is to make sure it will get through the emissions test!

peterux · #**139** 23rd February 2007, 20:07

Patrick,
i know it's the most obvious, but have you checked the blue temperature sensor and wiring. Sounds like the ECU thinks the engine is still cold. It provides an extra rich mixture when the engine is cold. If it's not the sensor you might have a break in the wiring back to the ECU (did you cut the cables shorter, can't recall?) To check this theory, leave the engine idling for about 10minutes and then turn off the engine and pop one of the spark plugs out and check what colour it is. It should be biscuit brown. Black or sooty deposits confirms that the engine is running rich. Similarly, it could be a faulty fuel pressure gauge, but I would go for the temperature sensor first.

Good luck, Peter

Patrick · #**140** 23rd February 2007, 20:12

I've swapped the blue sensor out for a new one, not checked the wiring. I'll give that a go thanks

Plugs were black and sooty so it is running rich, but I've not checked since running with the cleaned out injectors.