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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 14th February 2009, 08:43
KrazyKen KrazyKen is offline
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John

Once the installation is complete you may well find that you need to weld in the rear frame and provide additional chassis bracing. I have just had this done with mine even though I am only running a VVC as even with extra bolts in the rear frame the rear end was still flexing.

With your considerable extra power it will probably be worse than mine. Hope this helps.

Ken
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  #2  
Old 14th February 2009, 08:49
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Hi Ken.

That is one of the things on the "to do" list once the cars on the road. Get the cross member welded in.

It's frightening how much flex there is without the rear cross member in place.
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  #3  
Old 14th February 2009, 10:15
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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Looks like it's coming on well John,

how clean is that gearbox!!! did you aly-paint it?
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  #4  
Old 14th February 2009, 11:53
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I cheated Chris.

I had it shot blasted and power coated/laquered by a local place. While it's in bits, it was worth while doing.
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  #5  
Old 15th February 2009, 06:26
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Opened up my "working" box yesterday that I had been using on the Marlin.

Found this.



Diff failure. Bearing has sheered the diff. Common on the type A diff's. Lucky I had another type B one spare in another gearbox. Which was stripped before this one.
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  #6  
Old 17th February 2009, 17:45
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Hi John,

Can't help but thinking that you are a free test bed for Marlin engine fit?....or are they helping you out on this one (seem to remember that a new engine would have 'free fit development' done by the factory in the sales pitch)

..anyhow, (if misses Limpabit isn't too close) what's total cost on the car now?.....just intrigued as to value vs fun vs performance vs elise....

ATB

Rich (longing for the sun to shine)
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  #7  
Old 17th February 2009, 18:09
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Hi Rich.

Getting no help from Marlin. Though I have not asked for any.

Ian (merlinman) has done the mounts as I have no experience with welders!

This is not a stand VW build either (Am I trying to justify the costs. ). Lots of after market goodies from standard. Like a T28 turbo I had about waiting to go on the Rover engine. Know going on this.

But with that, comes baffled sump (as a safety measure, aftermarket ECU, gearbox rebuild, Rover gearbox conversion, etc ,ect.)

Not added it up accuratley at the moment but looking at th 3K mark I would have thought.

Yes at the beginning, it may have been worth getting an Elise. But with a broken car, thought I knew the car better than anyone as I built it. I could have put another Rover lump in it for a couple of hundred maybe. But decided ages ago, I was looking for a different engine, more modern.

I made the decision with the VW as this looked like a good modern alternative.
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  #8  
Old 14th March 2009, 09:10
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John,

Looking good mate hope you get it cracked for the summer!

Craig
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  #9  
Old 19th April 2009, 20:41
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Ok a little update. Well quite a big one!

It's taken quite a bit of time, but the gearbox is now beefed up and working. main problem I had in the end was getting the gearbox shimmed (Rover don't do them anymore). But now all together and working.

A picture of the gearbox ready for the case. All steel caged bearings. Type B diff so should have better grip than the broken one above!



Custom flywheel locking tool! The bolts for the adapter plate was not the ones I ended up using. Ended up routering out a litttle and using cap head bolts to sink the bolts slightly.



Custom 6 paddle race Helix clutch.



Walbro high flow 225 PL Fuel pump in Rover case.



And engine in car. Could not use MGF mount as mounting was way off.



Next on the agenda. Complete water system, mount plumb in oil cooler, and electrics. Should not take too long. Then ready for first start.

Then lastly, charge cooler setup.
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  #10  
Old 9th May 2009, 15:00
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Well all I can say is YEEPPE!

The engine fired up for the first time today. All be it with the electrics all done temporary.

Fix numerous oil leaks along the way.

Need to do electrics permanently now and finish cooling system.



A little video.

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  #11  
Old 21st July 2009, 22:41
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The car doesn't need to be firmly sprung to work on track, but, and this is by no means intended to be argumentative, if you really want the car to work on track, it's my view that you need to start considering the geometry (I don't mean camber / caster / toe), and get that sorted. The roll centres, jacking, pro-dive, pro-squat, etc - these really need to be resolved before the car is a truly capable track tool. Fast road / track work on a stock car, is erm, interesting, in a slightly unsettling way.
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  #12  
Old 21st July 2009, 22:46
5exiAdam 5exiAdam is offline
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Surely, everything geometry related is adjustable once built?

(But do correct me if needed)

I am looking to buy springs that are realistically suited to the 1.8t engine in the back. I know marlin have their own custom springs made, but i'm sure these are for the rover engines and possibly less weight than the 1.8t vag unit.

You mention "fast road / track work on a stock car."

can you explain a little more please? )
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  #13  
Old 21st July 2009, 23:16
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My chassis, which was produced in March 2006, had from factory some characteristics which I didn't like. I found the car unpleasant to drive, and very unpredictable.

My car is now quite different, and I can deploy the power with reasonable confidence.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=1639
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  #14  
Old 21st July 2009, 23:49
5exiAdam 5exiAdam is offline
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Wow,

you have made a few mods to your suspension.

I think i shall concentrate on getting the thing built and running first.

There obviously seems like there is room for improvement and luckily i am fairly handy with the old welder.

What was the view from Marlin on your alterations?

adam
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  #15  
Old 22nd July 2009, 06:37
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Hi Adam.

I upgraded the front springs to 220 due to the ones supplied too soft. Once the car is on the road, I shall be taking the car to track developments as John did to get a professional assesment with weights etc. As car had a Rover Turbo in it before, what to get the spring rates right instead of keep guessing.

As for engine mounts etc. I had the Rover running gear before. MGF gear change, gearbox etc. So mine is based on Rover running gear with the 1.8T bolted on. But beefed up the gearbox internals to cope with the extra modded power.

Mine are all done, just little odds and sods to do before I take the car to get exhaust made. I'm going for around 300-350 mark on standard internals for now. After experience with 200 BHP, this will be plenty. At 200BHP, it was frightening. So god knows what it will be like like this!
If it was me going for the power you aiming for, I would get all the major components built up and take it to track developments.

The engine was sick when I went to woodbridge (170BHP at the wheels) before it went to heaven. It managed 120 MPH on the straight (about 1/4 to 1/2 mile).
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  #16  
Old 22nd July 2009, 07:30
5exiAdam 5exiAdam is offline
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I had a go in a Supercharged Ariel Atom a while ago and that kind of power in such a light car is awesome!
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  #17  
Old 22nd July 2009, 12:02
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alackofspeed alackofspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5exiAdam View Post
What was the view from Marlin on your alterations?
I didn't have that conversation.
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  #18  
Old 22nd July 2009, 13:45
5exiAdam 5exiAdam is offline
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that answers that then!
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  #19  
Old 27th July 2009, 19:33
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Thought I would give some update as it's been a little while.

Boost hoses and chargecooler fitted. Hoses not jubilee clipped yet as I need to complete the water hoses for the chargecooler (waiting for rad)


Polished inlet and new expansion bottle. Together with shiney chargecooler filler.


Oil cooler fitted. Electrics looks worse than it appears. Just lamber to solder in (but can't do this until exhaust is done. Gentral clipping on wiring to do for now. When mapped and all wiring tested, the will go in conduit. Just in case I've missed something!


Things to do.
Accelerator to be sent off (too short)
Jublee clip every thing that is left (a few water pipes and boost pipes)
Fit slave cylinder and battery tray.
Fit driveshafts back together
Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Same for oil system.
Fill engine up to temp and see if Rover gauge displays correct coolant temp!

This I hope to complete withing the next 2 weeks. Maybe not accelerator cable (sending it off to get done).

Hopefully off at the end of September to get exhaust made.
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  #20  
Old 27th July 2009, 20:00
5exiAdam 5exiAdam is offline
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That looks brilliant!

It will be a looooong time before mine looks anything like that.

Did you make the engine mounts yourself?

Were you running the rover or vw gearbox?
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