marlin door fitting help

[mcramsay]

hey guys, i have had my marlin sportster kit for around 3 weeks now, and i am well in the swing of building. a little about me and my car first! My name is craig and im 25, i work as a mechanical technician on a nuclear powerstation in southwest england, the marlin is my second kit car, my first was a GBSC ZERO i started when i was 20, and passed IVA in 2012, i sold that kit at a huge loss to fund building a marlin sportster!

my car is based on the e39 5 series rear axle sub-frame assembly, with e 36 front struts and i plan on fitting the s50b32 3.2 evo engine, which i believe i will be amount a hand full of people to have used this engine!

currently i have have the majority of the front suspension fitted, the rear subframe, pedal box and fuel tank fitted. i started playing around with the doors today as i am currently waiting on other parts and i cant seem to make things fit too well so i was hoping to get some advice before i go cutting panels and making mistakes!

basically i have followed the marlin manual and used 3mm plywood as a spacer on the bottom sill of the door, but it is the drivers side A panel louvred cover that does not line up so well.

the passenger side seems ok :





the top gap between the door and the lower edge of the A panel cover is fairly consistant and i can trim the panel to achieve a parallel gap of around 3mm either side.

however on the drivers side its a different story

as you can see the front corner of the door fits ok, but the gap gets progessivley bigger the further back towards the door you go:



however i am able to pull the scuttle down by hand to achieve the gap:
http://s223.photobucket.com/user/mcr...tml?sort=3&o=7

its almost like the rail the scuttle sits on is slightly twisted.

i can also achieve the correct gap by tilting the door up at the striker pin end, however this then leaves a massive gap between the bottom of the door and chassis sill :



all the hinges are welded onto the doors, and the chassis has the holes drilled already to accept the hinges, although the holes do allow a lot of ajustment.

i tried adding a few washers under the front scuttle securing nut to effectivley push the back of the scuttle down further which brought the gaps much more even, but then left a big gap on the front scuttle to the bulk head!

does any one have any advice onthis?