View Single Post
  #9  
Old 4th December 2013, 18:15
morris's Avatar
morris morris is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Wales
Posts: 378
morris is on a distinguished road
Default

I've just been through the door and rear tub fitting so I understand your pain. I'm about to do the scuttle and A panels and have exactly the same problem with the A panel but on the passenger side. This is with the thin strip on the panel that extends rearward over the door not being a good fit if rested on top of the chassis with a similarly widening shut line running down the vertical gap with the front of the door. I've decided that the important thing is the horizontal lines are all straight and even so I'll pack up under the rear of the A panel to get it straight all round and the scuttle will sit slightly higher at the rear. you won't notice this once all the trim is on where as a trimmed A panel with non parallel lines will really draw the eye. The vertical line at the bonnet can be trimmed and the seal over it will cover any mistakes

On the door fitting I can offer the following advice:

- the chassis mounting steel is way too thin so some reinforcement is needed. I used 5mm steel angle bolted to the side of the chassis in front of the mounting holes (in the bit the A panel covers over) and then strips of thin ali between the hinges and the chassis mount holes to get the bottom of the door straight. I gave up on using a reference piece of hardboard under the door and went for the eyeball approach.
- fit your door latches before hanging the door. They add much needed weight and will help you get the bottom shut line right. I even thought of putting some extra ballast in there to help.
- The doors do have a bow in them but this is ok, I think it's actually part of the design (not if it's as bad as some have had). I tried to straighten mine and also cracked a weld but not enough to worry about.
- the bow in the door means that the bottoms are also lower on the inside edge than outer. As long as the rear bottom inner corner doesn't strike the chassis when the door is in it's closed position (but no further in) you'll be ok as the striker pin will stop it moving further
- file back the welds on the doors before trying to fit or you'll not know what true clearances you have to work with.

my photos on bodywork are here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5806804...7629422476140/

I'll watch your progress closely as at the rate I'm going, you're about to overtake me on the body work.
Reply With Quote