A few more replacments (heavy clutch)
Swapped the alternator out today as the old one was showing signs of failing. New one charges properly at 14v.
Replaced the blue temp sensor in the hopes of fixing occasional warm start issues, but that will need more testing. It was fine after filling it up. Replaced the Silkolene Silk Tran Syn 5 in the gear box with Fuchs ATF 3000 which has smoothed out the gear changes a lot (no more crunching, even from cold) gear box is still a bit stiff though. The clutch in the car is very heavy, anybody got any thoughts on modifications to lighten it up a bit? |
Quote:
The original BMW design was quite fancy with a spring to assist the action. Now we know why! Someone on this forum actually reused the BMW pedal box - you could think about that route but it would be a big mod to so. Robin PS yes I am making progress but painfully slow atm. |
Quote:
Hopefully the picture on the enclosed link will explain it alot better: Simon http://www.flickr.com/photos/marlin_...7603834512041/ |
Thanks Simon very nice work there :D I'll have a dig through my boxes of stuff I still have all the springs from the original pedal box. May even have some of the metal too.
My woosy left leg is used to the clutch in my E46 :lol: |
I've been getting problems changing gear now. Slowly its fine but if I'm going for it I change and it won't go in to the next gear for a short period. I've got just under 2k on the car.
Originally I suspect the thrust bearing or the syncro mesh on the box as it does have 113k on it now. I think I've worked out why now. The whole side of the pedal box flexes when you push on it (this is by hand me looking to see what's going on. The master cylinder which should be stationary moves a good 5mm left to right and forwards a bit. Now I suspect when I move the pedal quickly with my foot it flexes a lot more - the flex means the piston is not pushed in far enough to disengage the clutch completely. I've got several thoughts: 1) Weld a thicker piece of metal over the clutch site with a bend to re-enforce it (may as well do the accelerator pedal as well as it floats about too when you use it) 2) Drop the clutch pedal completely from the box and use one of these: http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-...smcp/index.asp 3) Bin the whole pedal box and go for something a lot more substantial. Issues here are all the racing boxes don't have servos which means it would need one or two remote servos which makes the whole thing very expensive. No. 1 is a good short term solution. If there is enough room No 2 I think might be a good solution No 3 is a bit drastic, but with the master cylinder inside the cabin it keeps the heat away from it. |
Quote:
Robin |
Mine flexed when i first installed it so I used a strengthening bar across the top of the bulkhead and bolted through this and the top of the pedal box it almost eliminated all the flexing.
Stuart |
I ended up not going to uxbridge due to wisdom tooth issues robbing me of my sleep! I was not happy as I was looking forward to seeing Peter's car.
I'll go with option 1 and see where it takes me to start with. I've got some spare steel knocking about :) |
Quote:
I hope the tooth is better now! Peter |
Good idea I will try that first :)
With the aid of ibuprofen its manageable thanks :) Maybe we could meet up outside of a show as some point as were not that far away from each other? |
Quote:
Robin |
mine was ok for about 1500 miles, I guess is slowly flexing more
|
Quote:
If it were me: 1. I would double double check for air in the system. 2.Did you use new slave and master cylinders - if not I would think about replacing these. 3. Brace the top of the bulkhead where the pedal box is bolted as Stuart suggested and I have already done. (I found that the bulkhead was flexing more than the pedal box itself) Robin |
I used new master cylinder and slave cylinder :) Air is certainly the easiest this thing to check so I will do that first. I'm wonder if my bolts have loosed up a bit as well over time. I'm going to check them all again.
|
Patrick
I was concerned about the flimsyness of the pedal box, so I added a stiiffening bracket to the clutch master cylinder - see http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikes_b...7604100777863/ [QUOTE=Patrick;12723]I've been getting problems changing gear now. Slowly its fine but if I'm going for it I change and it won't go in to the next gear for a short period. I've got just under 2k on the car. Originally I suspect the thrust bearing or the syncro mesh on the box as it does have 113k on it now. I think I've worked out why now. The whole side of the pedal box flexes when you push on it (this is by hand me looking to see what's going on. The master cylinder which should be stationary moves a good 5mm left to right and forwards a bit. Now I suspect when I move the pedal quickly with my foot it flexes a lot more - the flex means the piston is not pushed in far enough to disengage the clutch completely. Regards Mike |
thanks :) wish I'd done more originally now!
|
I bolstered my pedal box on the clutch side, mostly due to the fact that I had a new wilwood master (supplied my Marlin) that wouldn't fit.
http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Sportst...ylbracket1.JPG http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Sportst...lbracketon.JPG http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Sportst...lutchcylon.JPG After mounting it in the car, and filling and bleeding the clutch line, it flexed a lot. So I put these braces in, and it seems to have cured it. http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Sportst...chbracket1.JPG http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Sportst...chbracket2.JPG |
All times are GMT +0. The time now is 06:58. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Madabout Kitcars 2022