wont be able to lower fully

I was thinking about clip in side windows to get around this, possibly hinged half way up 2CV style to give openings.

When the weather is good and just pottering there is no window and the arm is resting on the door
When pressing on a bit more then windows clipped in but folded down for the wind in the hair feeling.
When it is peeing down and you just want to get home, hood up, windows up and foot down

Looking Good
 

Andrewhush

That's really coming together nice, another man with a surplus supply of 1mm cutting discs.

The uncanny thing is that you are a dead ringer for my next door neighbour! scary !!!!!

We are going to post some pictures tonight of our front end

How about using the spare grp for a whale tail spoiler?

Seriously, Looking good AH! It's coming together well. I will be watching the dash reprofiling with interest.
Hopefully I will get down to see it in the flesh soon.

HM

...or you could use the spare bit from the rear deck to make an electric hood cover in the style of the Porsche Boxster. Should be a pretty simple mod, couple of electric motors, some cables and a switch should do it. :madgrin:

Head lights lack off
 

AH curious to know what your thinking was on the headlights???????????

Haven't made any decision yet. That can wait until the bonnet is fixed onto the rest of the body. I will be using 7" units and will try bringing them further forward than they are on Gaz's car so that the vertical surface the unit fixes to is similar to the size of the unit. (like on a spitfire or mgb). I am fairly sure round arches will be included and I do like the front wing side vents.

That's it, that is the solution I have been looking for, bring the lights forward, because even 7" look lost in the recesses, I even tried double head light cut outs, did look good but totally out of period.

And yes front wing side vents look very good

After much dithering regarding the position of the pedal box I have cut and bonded in the ply bulkhead.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...tbulkhead2.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...tbulkhead1.jpg

Next step is to move the door apertures back to get the screen and hood position correct relative to the seating position, i.e. my head below the highest point of the hood. Approx 6" back for the right hand side and a bit less for the left as the existing door opening is already further back.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...uild/side1.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/cutmark1.jpg

Here goes!

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/sidecut3.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/sidecut4.jpg

And with the screen and hood template in place

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/sidecut2.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...creenback1.jpg

Hi Andrew, you've been again. Does the windscreen have legs that you will attach to a framework? Where did you get the engine for your car? I am very tempted to use alternate motor as to rebuild existing straight six may cost a lot more.

Hi Gary,

yes the screen ( a standard MG Midget one) has a short leg each side that goes through the scuttle top and fixes with two bolts (each side) to the midget body. I am now trying to devise a framework that will carry these two legs, the door hinges and give extra support the pedal box and steering column.

The engine came out of a scrapped but fairly new primera approx 16 years ago and lay dormant in my garage until I wired it up and got it running. If you go for a modern donor engine make sure you get all of the engine wiring harness and the ecu. A good way if you have the space is to buy a complete car and strip it yourself. This means you can get it running in the old car first and lets you take off everything you need. It also gives you an endless supply of wiring , relays, fuse boxes, wiper motors etc the list goes on !!

And I was getting nervous cutting small bits off the edges of my floor! :icon_wink:

Jokes aside, hats off to you Andrew for the major surgery you are undertaking. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)

AH

It's a big step cutting out the door shuts, cills and bulk head, but it really works with your seating position and roof arrangements.

The midget screen also works, did you consider the cobra screen at all?

No,

I always have intended this to be a budget build and midget bits really are cheap and cheerful (screen £20 and roof frame £30) so a replica cobra screen was definitely out. I considered an mgb screen but it would be a bit too wide as a cobra one might also be. I called Gary for a measurement of the g46 cockpit and obtained the width of a midget screen from a MG specialist. The two measurements were near enough as were the length of the door tops (thanks Gary) and a proportioned measurement from a scale mg midget drawing on google images. Based on that I ebay'd a screen and a hood frame. I also got a couple of rusty doors complete with all glass and winder mechanisms from a local classic restorer. As it turns out the sammio doors are slightly too long (one more than the other) so I will be shortening them a little. Concerns about being able to get in and out with the hood in place means that I am going to deepen the door skins by joining the part of the body below the door to the standard sammio door. This will make it easier to get my feet in and out and will allow the wind down windows to fully lower. The horizontal cut line in the photos above (80mm above the top of the chassis side rail) marks the bottom of the door / top of the door opening. The next step is to finish stripping the outer skin from the midget doors leaving the inner frame intact to be bonded into the extended sammio outer skin. This will give mounting points for the winder mechanism and window guides as well as hinge mounting points. I hope to use the scimitar hinges. As they designed to be mounted on flanges at right angles to the cars centreline some changes will be required to the 45 degree angled front door returns.

There, that's all of my current wish list out in the open!

With the two sides of the cut section moved back different amounts, the scuttle top was twisted so I cut it above the car's centreline. I then adjusted the screen position to get the edge where it meets the quarterlight pointing towards what will be the front shutline.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...screenside.jpg

I then moved each side of the body to get the overall screen movement 5" to the rear and the screen square to the body. The right side ended up 6" back and the left side 4" back.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...lestagger1.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...lestagger2.jpg

Still going?
 

Hello,

Long time since we,ve seen or read anything,stillbuilding?

Like to hear and see more of your fantastic build!

Gr.Rob

Hi Rob, thanks for asking. Build has been on hold since the beginning of this year. Since my wife decided to join me in retirement a year earlier than originally planned I have switched my attention to transplanting the innards of our old caravan into a newer van to provide a cheap motorhome to go travelling in. I hope to finish it in the next couple of months and then swap back to the car.

Reluctantly considering selling this project which hasn't moved any further forward since my last post. Any interest out there for this very rare (and unfinished car! )

If it helps, I'm always getting asked for part finished projects so PM me with some details and I'll pass them on when next asked. :nod:

Thanks micky. Basically as it is in my build thread but I will be keeping the engine and gearbox for another project. Best for anyone interested to pm me and then discuss over the phone as there is a lot to talk about. I.e. parts for and ideas about hood, doors, wind up windows etc. Chassis is se5a, new outriggers then galvanised. All suspension new ball joints and polybushed (except rear longitudinal links - original bushes good), all brakes overhauled, rear axle new seals, steering rack new boots & track rod ends.

I would direct postrenal buyer towards your thread as it explains very well exactly what they are getting .
As you intend to keep the engine/gearbox I can supply an original Ford V6 + overdrive gearbox which might help.
Personally, having built one I do not want to take on another one but I am interested in the rolling chassis.:icon_wink: