We got the brake pedal back from a friend who was able to bend it for us. Now the positioning is much better giving more room between the accelerator mand brakes (we've got big feet!):


http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction137.jpg

Oil cooler fitment and revised radiator fitment:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction142.jpg

Order from Car Builder Solutions turned up today, placed on Friday afternoon! One heater and plume, a rivnut gun, universal band and a set of dash warning lights (I really didnt like the ones that came with the kit so I order these instead):

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_parts28.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_parts29.jpg

I've done a lot of work on the steering column bulk head mounting on sunday, it was nice and sunny so out the driveway! I've not put any pictures up yet.

A number of new items this week! The modified tank is complete, the oil pipe connections are prepared for clean up. Finally much of the coolant system is planned out and ready to finalise:

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http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction152.jpg

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Time for another version of the radiator bracket! Its now bolted along the sides with two strips of metal either side of the rad. Bolts need shortening to and a lick of paint to clean it up.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction164.jpg

All the water pipes for the front of then engine are now cut to size and routed. Currently the bottom pipe is zip tied to the bottom of the radiator - I'd like to find a more elegant solution for this but it will do for the moment.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction168.jpg

Oil pipe test fit, not sure yet how we're going to run these so these are just where they will fit at the moment. The oil cooler connectors we have are the straight type so are most suitable for running the pips this way. 180 degreee connector would work for going under and along. More research need on this one!

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction173.jpg

Today we installed the fuel level sender in the fuel tank - sounds easy but it took most of the day! Stage 1 was to figure out the numbering system as the chart that came with the sender only when down to 180mm deep tanks. The Marlin tank is 160mm. Luckily it was quite an easy one to figure out - 160mm depth, 67mm pivot, 63mm radius.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction180.jpg

Next on the list was to make the hole that the send goes in. It was all going well until the dremel (110v 20 odd year old model) finally giving in and died leave the rest of the cut out and clean up to me done by hand. Still turned out quite nicely:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction179.jpg

There was a lot of mess in the tank, but luckily one of the vacuum cleaner attachments fits in the hole!

This only leaves figuring out how to attach the fuel hose to the tank and mounting the filter/pump!

Busy weekend! We've installed the car builder solutions heater and put the oil cooler pipes in. The oil return pipe on the engine recieved a new spring, washer and o ring. The steering column is back out to clean up the bracket that holds it and adjust the bottom bracket.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction185.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction187.jpg

A quick trip to B&Q and one hardcore MAPP blow tourch later the two oil pipes are bent out of the way of the steering column with ease!

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction191.jpg

CBS Throttle cable through the bulk head. The thread on this had to be chopped back so the pedal could move all the way up. We've bolted on throttle cable at the other end - the cable is current 5m long which is a bit much! The throttle is still a bit stiff with the long cable - We're hoping that it will loose a bit once its shortend.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction193.jpg

Parts from the donor heater system - The two pipes use opposite connector types therefore when connected we can use this as an inline electric controlled valve to regulate the amount of hot water that flows through the system from a control on the dash - much nicer than a manual valve hidden under the dash!

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction189.jpg


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Following on from this thread: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=151195

I'm looking for someone to build an exhaust for me:

Something good and something that's less than 101db (1 meter from tip - SVA req.)

Yes need a manifold too.

EDIT: Budget wise I've got around £800 to play with - maybe a bit more if its something really good.

Looks wise I'd like pipes out the side of the engine bay - like this only evenly spaced:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/exhaust.gif

Finishing with the pipe on the side - similar to this only with 6 pipes:

http://www.marlinracing.co.uk/images...d_apn_side.jpg


Thank you! :) I will be updating the site later today with new pics as I've been busy this weekend!

EDIT:

As far as manifold design goes for the M20 engine - this is supposed to be very good - not good for me as I dont want an underbody exhaust:

http://www.xsperformance.co.uk/e30zo...ages/btb23.JPG

Heater pipes added - CBS sent the wrong size pipes - too small, managed to get them on anyway but they kink on the bends so will have to replace them. Probably with two 90 degree silicon hoses.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction203.jpg

Fuel pipe straps - Doh! hmm should really have thought of this before making a big hole in the tank - never mind just moved the straps over.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction204.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction205.jpg

Fuel pump, filter and connection in place:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction217.jpg

Wire, wires everywhere! We've started on the loom this weekend while waiting for the fuel pump! There's only a few bits on construction work left, the main one being the brackets for holding the AFM, airfilter and header tank. There's a few minor bit hose left and lots of hose clips!

On to the pictures, some working in progress on the wiring loom:


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Decided to use the BMW header tank using Robin's car as a model!

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction226.jpg

AFM bracket part 1 - this fixing is not yet strong enough - the metal flexs too much to hold it safely. We'll need to add a more solid metal bracket up from the bottom. Other end of the bracket - holds the carbon airbox and the bottom of the header tank. The carbon airbox can be moved further forward by shortening the blue silicon hose making more room at the back for an intake pipe.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction227.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction228.jpg

This bracket used to hold the diagnostic port in addition to the two sensor plugs - theres not much room here anymore so were going to move the diagnostic connector else where. The bracket has been cut and attached at a different angle to normal.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction229.jpg

Spent all day in the garage but the only really constructive thing to come out of it was a mounting for the fuel pump:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction234.jpg

Have you used "cotton reel" rubber mounts on fuel pump? It's just that the donor pump was mounted this way, so not sure if it's a must do.
Alfie

No but I've use rubber round the back and the whole pump is covered in spongy stuff the dampens the vibration. However something I will look into thanks :)

Misc items done such as finishing the steering column mount and putting the pedal box in for the last time (we hope!)

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction236.jpg

New tubes added

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction237.jpg

AFM Mount:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction238.jpg

Also started wrapping the engine wiring loom ready to go back in the car.

We've spent quite a lot of time on the engine wiring loom this weekend, routing elements of the loom and placing key bits of kit like the ECU. Decided to put the ECU on the passenger side - there's plenty of room there. Also the whole engine loom will enter the car through the bulk head with the rest of the element routed around that. The coil pack as moved over to the other side of the engine bay - with a bit of cable rerouting there is no need to lengthen the cables to this. The motronic diagnostic port has a home on the top of the bulkhead where its easy to access. We've also painted up verious brackets and created a panel to cover the hole in the bulkhead that the engine wiring loom is passing through.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction241.jpg

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http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction246.jpg

Today we worked on the doors installing the latches and trimming out the door pockets so that the latches are usable and there are no square or sharp edges. Had to cut the opening for the latch about 1 cm bigger at the top over the marked line so that they would unlatch the striker pin.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_body013.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_body015.jpg

Having some trouble with figuring out where the striker pins are suppose to be mounted to the chassis at the moment - see here: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...read.php?t=609

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_body017.jpg

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_body016.jpg

Seat belts / harness' are here :) And an audi fuel filter - now I just need to find M14 unions!

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_parts32.jpg

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We've decided to use the stock 4 stud alloys to start with, but with larger tyres that we've got from and E36. The alloys have seen better days after a good 15 years on the car! So today we've had the old rubber taken off the rim and started the refurb process. None of the pro restores I called would touch the plastics caps and most wanted £55 per wheel. So as these are only until we've worn through the tyres we decided to try the Halford wheel restoration kit. The results are pretty good consider its DIY - only finished one of the three so far, it take a long, long time with lots and lots of sanding to get anywhere!


http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction253.jpg

Also a small job in the engine bay, mounting the coil and arranging the pipes. The Car Builder Solution pipe that I had custom made instead of the 3rd radiator cap is install with the pipe over to the header tank:

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction250.jpg
Click me

Sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding.... after find there is not enough paint in a halford repair kit to do a proper job it turns out you can't buy the paint seprately?!?! Ok plan B filler primer, sanding, primer, Honda Noble silver, lacquer! That should yield much better results than the paint in the kit. The stuff for filling the holes was good though.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction256.jpg

Coil overs have arrived from Gaz - first test fit. Its tight and the chassis might need a bit of modification to get everything running nicely! Finish quality is excellent with ball joints at the top are welded into the E46 top mounts I sent to them.

http://www.msportster.co.uk/data/tn_construction258.jpg

Had a very good look around underneath with weight on the car. It really it down to 2mm clearance, especially on the left side. However when you bounce the suspension nothing rubs - I just wonder how much they will move around while under load. What we're probably going to do it pull the strut tower out a tiny bit and move the mounting hole at the top by a few mm to increase the clearances. Very happy with these, the spring seems a bit hard but we'll see once the car has its full weight in. The nice thing it replacing the spings is a very easy job - and not too expensive either! :)