Worcester MIGLIA

[Carib Classics]

Hi all, been reading most of your build diaries for the past seven months and have been inspired to BUILD A CAR. I currently have two classic cars but I now have the bug to build one, and have selected the MIGLIA.

[Carib Classics]

[QUOTE=Carib Classics;62047]Hi all, been reading most of your build diaries for the past seven months and have been inspired to BUILD A CAR. I currently have two classic cars but I now have the bug to build one, and have selected the MIGLIA.

[Paul L]

Carib Classics - Welcome to the forum.

It will be nice to see another Miglia build on here.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

Hi carib, welcome, and good luck!

[Carib Classics]

I will try and keep a diary as I am going to need much help from you guys who have built a number of cars. I will be very honest my keenness is far greater than my car building knowledge.
I have a teaching and lecturing background so I do a lot of planning after which I came up with this as my starting point.
September 2014
I decided to use the spitfire chassis, my research found they were far more sturdy and there a more readily available in good condition. What my research didn't show me was that they are shorter in length. Now anyone who knows about cars would have spotted that one car is a two seater and the other is a four seater. Not me.
And so with the purchase of two chassis the build started. Why two? because my project chassis was solid. It had been already stripped, cleaned and painted and was sold as a bare boned unit, 1782
That meant I had to get another chassis with running gear.1780
Once I stripped the chassis it was discarded for scrap

[Paul L]

Have you spoken to Mike @ Miglia yet?

He did modify an original Herald based Speedster to work with the Spitfire chassis for Marc F.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag438/marcflack/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141005_152416_zpsc46e6fa4.jpg

I think the original plan was to offer a Spitfire based version, but it is worth checking.

It would certainly make your life easier compared to buying the Herald based model and them modifying it to fit.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[davecymru]

Whoo Hoo a new Miglia builder! I was starting to feel a bit lonely in here :)


I will be very honest my keenness is far greater than my car building knowledge.
You'll fit right in then :)

Best of luck with the project and i look forward to seeing how it progresses :)

[rattler]

hi you wont regret it good fun my miglia is on show at a citroen main dealer showroom so nice and warm for the winter now building a citroen 2cv specia rattlerl

[Carib Classics]

Thanks guys for all the positives.
Yes I have spoken to Mike at Miglia , thanks Paul, and he is setting me up with a subframe and body to suit my spitfire chassis.

[Carib Classics]

So that was back in September and much progress since then. My rolling gear came off with very little trouble. I must confess that I am fortunate to be part of a group of enthusiast who think they know everything there is to know about classic cars.
The ring leader is Big Kevin who owns the local garage and is a one of the best fabricator I've ever seen.
He CAN reproduce any shape and size steel panel.
However none of this mad group have ever built a kit car so I'm venturing into territories green for us all.
The great thing about the group is that everyone chips in to help whenever there is something to resolve. Out of hours we have full access to the ramps and extensive snap on tools that belong to Kevin and Chris who work at KW Auto and classics Cars Bromsgrove Worcestershire full time. Although I have my build in a lockup, once the basic rolling chassis is built, and I can get some space? its round to the garage for advice and verbal abuse.

[Carib Classics]

With my two chassis in two different locations, I could get busy. Everything was removed the suspension donating chassis it was all power washed, dried and the long task of cleaning and painting began.17851786

[Carib Classics]

My build chassis was secured in my lockup, which is where all my main bits will be stored as I obtain them.1787 1788.
Did someone say whats that under the heavily wrapped polythene sheets? Well thats my 2litre Redtop race prepared engine. I will back a ford type 9 five speed box or a T5 gearbox to it, and as they say, thats all she wrote. YES VERY NICE!!!!
Oh can anyone say whether the standard prop and diff will cope with that monster setup? All those who have build a V8 version, what did you do with your back end?

[Carib Classics]

With all the garage equipment and tools at my disposal, my two large bins of suspension parts were stored at KW Auto. The cleaning of the suspension parts?guys they takes a lot of time, particularly under the eyes of Big Kevin, he is a stickler for detail. All my spare days and evenings were spent with a bench vice. To be honest, it made the final striping and cleaning so much easier. Everything is washed in clutch and brake cleaning fluid,1790
then given a thorough wire brushing to remove all the rust
1791
before it is either hand painted for the chassis engine mounts1789
or sprayed the appropriate colour as part of the suspension unit.
17921793.

[Carib Classics]

Nice clean Suspension Bits
1794
1795
1796
1797.

[Carib Classics]

More Nice Clean Bits
1798
1799
1800
1801.

[Carib Classics]

With October ending there was still a few parts still to be cleaned and sprayed, and so November arrived and I was still married to the bench vice. However it all ended and all my clean bits of suspension and accessories were transferred to be stored and hung in the lockup.
1803.
The lockup was also where I was going to do my basic rolling chassis build, but before I could start my build I had to prepare my build chassis in the same way I had addressed the suspension.
So with an electric generator borrowed from Kevin for the tools and light which I had erected, my cleaning and striping began.
1804
1805
I used a flat electric metal sanding disk on the flat areas, to strip it back to the bare metal looking for any holes and a series of wire brushes in the small and tricky areas.
1806
The area is cleaned with brake and clutch fluid to remove any grease and dirt before a thick hand brushed layer of silver metallic paint was applied.
1807.

[1iTim]

nice work, you have most of the easy stuff done!

stonking engine to go in there - buy a couple of spare diffs, at the very least some from the 6 cyl GT6. just change them each time they break!

you can also get quaife internals. You could also loose the swing arms and go full independant with cv jointed rear that will unload (laterally) the diff so allowing other diffs to be engineered in (subaru, nissan).

Say hi to mike for me!

[swifty]

Nice work CC you are well on the way, you mention fitting a type 9 gearbox thats what i have done but used a GT6 engine, did consider a bigger engine but then there was the uprated brakes etc to consider so stuck with a GT6 for now. There is some good sites on subaru diff conversion in triumph chassis plus uprated independent rear suspension.

Good luck and i look forward to following your progress.

Cheers Swifty

[Mister Towed]

Wow, with that red top and a Spit Chassis, if you keep the build lightweight you'll have close to 400bhp/tonne to play with.

These three (all on Vitesse Chassis and running Triumph six pots) have between 150 and 240bhp/tonne and all are pretty rapid.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/004_zps29222155.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/004_zps29222155.jpg.html)

Yours is going to be bonkers! I like it.

[Carib Classics]

Nice cars MT, yes I don't intend to do anything to increase the weight. The type 9 gearbox will add a few ponds but thats it. Did you leave your back end as standard?
My intensions are to keep my first attempt as standard as possible with general upgrades such as vented replacement discs, which I have to change anyway. This route will ensure I get the build completed, then go back and either do another build or gradually make the uprated changes.
The guys at the garage think I should do all the uprated and changes this time around, but as its my first lit build, and no-one else at the garage has ever built a kit car, I intend to keep focussed and have it completed for summer or certainly within 12 months.1827.
These are a few of the Bromsgrove garage crew. You can obviously tell who is big Kevin. (blonde mop?)The other two are Nathan who's stag had just won best classic on show that day, and Roger the dodger, he can spray anything.

[Mister Towed]

After much trial and error I have now removed the top four leaves from the rear spring (Vitesse donor), and fitted 150lb Spitfire springs to the front, cut down by 1.5 coils, with new, standard dampers all round.

This gave it a suitable ride height with no lowering block needed and great ride and handling as the tyres now stay on the road instead of hopping about all over the place, which they did with stiffer springs fitted.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/011_zps42ad1308.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/011_zps42ad1308.jpg.html)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/012_zpsfe20db4f.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/012_zpsfe20db4f.jpg.html)

As for the brakes, I've got standard drums at the back with grooved, solid discs up front and an aftermarket servo for better feel.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/004-29_zps0e498815.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/004-29_zps0e498815.jpg.html)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/001-8_zps71077134.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/001-8_zps71077134.jpg.html)

Bearing in mind I have a cast-iron six pot up front, that setup is plenty powerful enough for fast road use. Can't comment on track use as I don't do track days, but Phil J (green Spyder No.2 above) is competitive with early 911's on the track and has standard Vitesse brakes and about 130bhp from his 2.5 six.

Not sure how much modification the Spitfire running gear will need, but I wouldn't think it will take much fettling to make it a mighty fast car.

Good luck. :)

[Carib Classics]

Wonderful MT, just what I needed to know much appreciated, I will be putting your findings within my build starting with the back end.I already had a remote servo on my shopping list.
As for the front end, didn't think it would have been a problem, but with my engine potentially being lighter than your six pot, I will certainly start with the reduced height springs.
I've just purchased some 15" wire wheels, are they what you used in your build? One of my major concerns is that the wheel arches are filled. I hate to see kits with undersize wheels, it spoils them for me.

[Carib Classics]

The top of my chassis is de rusted and painted with a thick layer of silver metallic paint and now requires to be turned over so the underside can be addressed.
1828.
1829.
My intension is to put at least three coats of paint to the underside giving it as much protection as possible. Once again as previous stripping back the existing paint and any signs of rust to be removed and letting the paint do its job.
Happy days, I've found just one hole which I shall get welded once the rolling chassis is in the workshop for the engine and gearbox fitting.
1833.
1834

Week two in December and the bottom has had its three layers of paint and is now left to dry.
1836
1837

Christmas is coming and everyone is going shopping, so I may as well join the fun. A set of wheels on ebay, a must have for christmas. Success !!!!!!, I win the set of four 15" Healey wire wheels with tyres. So off I go to collect them with my Buddy Paul. When we get to the seller, we are greeted by a couple of the nicest guys I have ever met since playing with classic cars.
Wayne and Paul at Atkinson Classics in Stoke on trent made us feel like long friends. We could have exchanged stories and ideas about classic cars all day. Plus owner Paul, found two more unused wire wheels with three tyres which he sold me. A brilliant day out. Now its all about stripping, cleaning and buffing them to a polished shine ready for the body fit.

A number of people have mentioned replacing the Trunions, mine seem to be ok, but what do I know.
1835.
Can anyone tell me what I should be checking? I intend to replace the end caps, oil seals/rings, thought that would be adequate? The bolts seem to be a good tight fit, but they could also be replaced if necessary. Can anyone educate me?

[Mister Towed]

I've just purchased some 15" wire wheels, are they what you used in your build? One of my major concerns is that the wheel arches are filled. I hate to see kits with undersize wheels, it spoils them for me.

I have 4.5x14" MGB wheels fitted to mine - they're cheap, easily available and look the part.

The critical thing looks-wise imho is the tyre sidewall height. In this picture my (silver) car is on 70 series tyres and the other two are on 80's (175/70/14 vs 175/80/14).

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/002_zps51d93a64.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/002_zps51d93a64.jpg.html)

Once I saw that picture I upgraded to the higher profile tyres and raised the suspension about an inch and a half to allow clearance as I felt the other two cars just had more fifties 'presence'.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/001_zpsfd84842c.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/001_zpsfd84842c.jpg.html)

That gave me a stance and look that I'm much happier with -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/001_zps39890a86.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/001_zps39890a86.jpg.html)

You'll be fine with 15" wheels so long as you get the tyres and suspension settings right. I use this simple calculator to determine whether tyres will fit and how they'll affect the gearing -

http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator

Others may disagree but if I were to fit 15's to my car I'd be going for 155/80/15's which would fit, have similar gearing to the tyres already fitted and give the car an authentic 50's look -

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b832s477p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_15_inch_Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Sprint_Cl assic_-_R15_inch_-_155_80_15_155_80R15_R15_inch_-_155_15_155R15

Good luck with it. :)

[Carib Classics]

Hey guys, YES !!!!! just when you guys thought I'd given up or put the project on hold I'm BACK.
Ok, BIG question????? All inputs are welcomed.
Can anyone confirm AS FACT the actual difference in the wheel base length between the Herald chassis and a Spitfire chassis.
Its decision time for me. Do I build on my existing spitfire chassis or do I need to make changes in order to keep Mikes great body design proportions, on the Herald chassis setup.

[1iTim]

Carfolio is a good spot for all those dimensions. Mikes milia is designed for a herald according to his website, so check there. Or you could speak to him and ask.

Tim

[davecymru]

I have seen those numbers in the past, possibly in the Haynes manuals?

Failing that, then I'm sure one of the beards over on http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl? will know!

[Carib Classics]

Thanks guys.
I've researched, and it seems to be 8" on one set of data, and 8 1/2" on another.
With that kind of difference it would make considerable difference with the Miglia body proportions if Mike was to make the existing body fit my spitfire chassis.
Has anyone built a Miglia on a spitfire chassis?
Please own up!!!!!!

[Carib Classics]

Last time I posted I was in the process of cleaning and painting my chassis.
Three layers on the top and four to the underside.
So here we have the final look.

[Paul L]

...Has anyone built a Miglia on a spitfire chassis? ...
As far as I know Marc F has the only Spitfire based Migia.

There is a photo of it in Post #6 on Page 1 of this thread and a build thread here:

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5384

Hope that helps, Paul. :)

[Carib Classics]

2305

2306

2307

2308

[garyh]

Can anybody help me to find my two shopping trolleys that have gone missing...

[Mister Towed]

Is that galvanised or sprayed silver? I wish I'd had my chassis galvanised...

[Carib Classics]

its all hand painted in silver paint. Purchased the paint from Aldi on special discount. Bought three tins, and was able to put three thick brushed coated to the underside and two to the top. I'm very pleased with the final finish.

[Carib Classics]

These have worked out great. Where my lockup is located there is a constant supply of baskets being left. once the basket is removed and a spare wheel is put on top of the wooden platform it becomes the perfect working height.
It also make the whole project totally mobile, when you need space on the right it can be pushed very easily. On good days the whole project can be pushed outside. I have found it really easy to work with and i didn't have to look very far for the items.:icon_wink:

[1iTim]

Looking at the spit chassis compared to the herald I don't know how you will do the floor? I was originally thinking of an under slung aluminium honeycomb composite, but cost and the difference in the relative heights of the bottom of the herald's main chassis rails and the outriggers changed my mind. However might work for you on the spit.
Tim

[Marc F]

Hi CC, I do have the Spit based body in my garage and, IMHO, the proportions work just fine once shortened. For my car , Mike sliced and diced it by 9", and was planning to make a mould but, as that never happened, you will have two choices.

1) Lengthen your chassis - the Corsa Spyder guys do that, so you could probably buy the extensions direct from them

2) Shorten a standard bodyshell yourself (have you got a body, or has Mike definitely got one for you?). A good saw and some careful measurements and you will be done. But it needs a frame to support the sides of the body and crucially the rear radius arms.

Then, on Tim's point, Mike supplied me with floor pans that drop the floor down, but I think I will replace with aluminium. As a guide (and I won't know for sure until I get it up on stands), it looks like I could just plate from the bottom of the chassis across to the side members that my car now has. But if not I will make up aluminium drop boxes as I think they will look good. Haven't sorted what I want to do with seat and seat belt locations yet, but that will come. I will be buying a metal folder to make the task easier.

Edit: Also, you probably won't need the bonnet boxes - Mike cut mine off as part of the conversion. Won't affect your registration as far as I can see.

[1iTim]

Yep al floor is what I may do, using mikes floors as templates. I contacted an aluminium toolbox maker with some rough plans for a folded up (origami Ali) floor.
I also did calls in shear and 2mm al should be ok depends on the alloy.
Good luck in your choices
T

[Marc F]

2mm Tim? I thought Dave had used 1.2mm, I am loathe to go too heavy a gauge unless I need to. I did also look at honeycomb, but struggled to actually source any, and getting data that made sense to me (as a non engineer) was a nightmare.

But I will continue to ponder and listen to others' words of advice as I don't want my seats pulling out of the floor in an accident. Plating is an option of course, but I am aiming to keep the underside as smooth as possible. But safety is paramount.

[davecymru]

Yup, I went for 1.2mm and they do the job lovely.
But remember that I constructed mine with lots of alloy L section on the joins which adds strength as I don't have the space or tools to cut-n-fold alloy sheet to a good enough standard :(

So it was sheets of 1.2mm Alloy, Alloy L section, some 1mm cutting discs, tin-snips and rivets. lots and lots of rivets!


In case it's of any interest here are mine during construction on the one small empty space on my garage floor!

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/bulkheadbits_zps4c94eb84.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/davecymru/media/Miglia/bulkheadbits_zps4c94eb84.jpg.html)

And in place:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/floorpans_zpsd7675b90.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/davecymru/media/Miglia/floorpans_zpsd7675b90.jpg.html)


One thing to mention that I've noticed from driving is that if I did it again I would angle the back wall of the foot well boxes so that it slopes up to the cross member as it can be fiddly getting my heels comfortable when getting in and out.

[Carib Classics]

WOW!!!!!
Guys, just when I thought it was to be plain sailing, I have a lot to consider.
Dave, Marc and Tim, a bundle of positives. I do have access to folding machine at the garage owned by BIG KEV. He is also a tremendous fabricator.
I would love to see a chopped body on a chassis, but my gut is telling me, extend my chassis.
I wish I had done the cut before completing the rolling chassis.

[Carib Classics]

I've ordered my kit based on the Herald sizes. Mike is going to supply a standard Herald subframe which I will use to extend and build the required out riggers to the chassis.
Again I'm very lucky to have BIG KEV, his expertise when it comes to building and fabrication. I'll share with KEV the suggested thicknesses of steel that the guys have used on their builds, and post what we eventually use.

[Carib Classics]

So the chassis build started at the rear end and worked my way forward. A couple of hick ups as the pics will show. Spot the back to front stuff all you keen builders.
Its all been changed now.

2328

2329

2330

2331

2332

[1iTim]

Do the front foot wells need to be that deep?

I don't think I published them, but I ran my calcs with a safety factor based on the force that would be experienced on a 100 kg passenger in the seat (given the geometry of the herald seat runners) and the force to compress the front springs all the way, in static fast load like a big bump. Given that al is less stiff than steel real world in extreme (crash) will be different due to bending etc. I'll go for 2mm in the strongest alloy practical. The original floor was about 1mm steel and ribbed for a stiffer shape. I'll be using a lighter grade sheet for the rest of the cockpit though. My heat shield is .5mm and that's really prone to bend, crease and dent, so I won't go that thin on the inside.

Anyway, just some thoughts while I can't sleep at 3am!
T

[1iTim]

That's a really satisfying part of the build, I remember that! Very nice putting all the clean parts back together.
Looks great Carib!

[1iTim]

PS re the floor I also checked the raw stats of how thick the alloy had to be to match the strength of the steel and got a similar thickness. Depends on the alloy of al, varies hugely. 2mm al is still lighter than 1mm steel
G'night all

[Paul L]

... I would love to see a chopped body on a chassis, but my gut is telling me, extend my chassis...
I'm sure you already know this, but it is worth double checking...

If you start welding structural extensions on to the chassis you can't use the re-body rules and will need IVA. :icon_sad:

You are allowed to bolt extensions to the chassis, or build the extensions into the body shell itself and then bolt that to the chassis.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Your rolling chassis is coming together nicely. :cool:

[Marc F]

Agreed Paul, but the Type 49 Corsa guys do that, and do not appear to have issues. Whether they declare the mod I don't know but... Just saying.

Personally, I would run a Herald chassis with the full length body. CC - you could sell your chassis and swap to a Herald, and have a far simpler life. All your goodies will bolt directly on, so no real loss.

YMMV

Ally panelling - I will probably still go for thinner, and maybe look at adding ribs for strength. But my heart tells me the floor pan just needs to keep my feet off the ground - doubt it adds much in crash situations. And I plan on a centre tunnel with full structural panelling, along with the side chassis and frame rails. So should be plenty strong enough for me. Advantage of 1.2mm or thinner is ease of bending/forming. 2mm is going to increase the difficulty, and hence the chance of me getting it wrong.

BUT! Interesting that Mike has resurfaced and is making you a body - maybe he will be able to give me a receipt now (and my grill and side vents and headrest...). Will be good if he is actually back and active with the Miglia... IF anyone manages to catch him please do ask that on to this forum via one of the many threads please. He just seems to "not receive" my messages or answer my calls. Shame, as he seem(ed) a nice guy to work with.
But interesting to hear the other views - keep 'em coming.

[Carib Classics]

Thought I would bring my build pics up to date as I await my subframe from Mike.
I am eager to cut and extend my spitfire chassis but the guys at the garage are stopping me until Mike sends the subframe which will be used to position all the outriggers exactly where they need to be.
Also they want to ensure the total length matches the body which has been designed to fit on the frame.
2408

2409

2411

2412

2413

[Carib Classics]

The build continues
2414

2415

2416

2417

2418

[Carib Classics]

Getting bored waiting on Mike and subframe but thats just me being impatient. its only been a few weeks since the kit was ordered, but in my mind I want to have the body on and in place before winter so I can spend this winter on the interior and external trims.
2419

2420

2421

2422

2423

[Carib Classics]

Got a great deal on the Hubs and spinners but have found them to be the short type.
The add did not say for 13" wheels only. I have 15" which need the longer hubs. Not to worry that all part of doing your own build, making mistakes and making them good. So they will be back on ebay soon and replacements ordered.

2424

2425

2426

[Mister Towed]

Chassis looks nice and fresh. The short splined hubs are a lot cheaper than the long ones but like you say, will only take the 13" wires. It's a common mistake which has also been made by the seller of the Miglia that's ending this evening on ebay.

Hope you get your frame in good time, that's an exciting part of the build when you have a working 'moon rover'.

[Carib Classics]

With the chassis on hold till I get my subframe, its time to look at the electrics and wiring of the engine.
Ok I have this race prepared Redtop engine with a BMW E36 five speed box.
I need to get them cleaned and joined together and tested ready to drop onto my extended chassis.
A few days off this week, rain is forecast so no reason to go driving.
Anyone ever done this combination?
I had intended to use a ford type 9 box but the racing boys are grabbing them off ebay for stupid money.
This should do the trick at a fraction of the cost and the bell housing matches without ordering from racing specialist.
Pics to follow

[Carib Classics]

Yes Towed, I'm really pleased with the final look of the rolling chassis. Only wish I had given the extension more thought previously. All is not lost, I will set up my engine and gearbox ready this week. I also have to build the engine mounts, reshape a standard exhaust to compensate for the front wheel drive engine being used as a rear wheel drive unit.
All been done before so I'm not creating anything new, but using the best ideas of whats been done previously.
The roof of my lockup is filled with wire, stainless steel exhaust units, the walls have ECU units and wires, steering columns, lots of everything.
The good thing is I've been buying lots of bits on Ebay for the past nine months so I have most of what I need, just have to put it all together.

[EL PRIMER]

With regards chassis modifications such as welding major structures on or modifying wheelbases etc. it isnt allowed by the strict rules of the current DVLA system. minimal body mount modification is about your lot , no shortening of outriggers or similar , as the confusing regs state ..

My unofficial view on this at the moment would be .... DVLA are currently treating this whole not thought through area of car construction in their recent changes , as only a paperwork exercise ....so , if you are planning on registering a potentially awkward one , do it now !! before this changes.

[Thurcroft flyer]

chassis is looking exceptional , keep up the great work and photos !!!!!

[Carib Classics]

Bank holiday and no subframe yet from Mike, so to keep things on the move its time to put the engine and gearbox together and fire up this baby.

2463

2464

2466

2467

[Carib Classics]

Exhaust need to be cut and adjusted, and engine mounts roughed up ready for installation.
2468

2469

2470

2471

2472

[1iTim]

Mate your engine makes mine want to scurry back to the museum where it belongs

Tim

[Carib Classics]

So after a long absence, when other projects were completed, my tools being stolen again, then there was Covid 19 lock down, I am back with my build.
This time I have replaced my Spitfire Chassis with a Vitesse Chassis which had been dry stored for thirty years. In great condition as my picture will show.
I had to exchange all my previously renovated parts in order to get this great chassis so the strip down, clean and replace worn out areas has begun.

[Mister Towed]

Welcome back, Carib - it's only been six years!

The longer chassis is a good move, it will really improve the proportions of the finished car. Can't wait to see some more progress :)

[deni]

Hi Carib,
Great to read that you’re resuming your build. It would be great to have another Miglia thread on the forum. I agree with MrT, the longer chassis will improve the look of the car.
Looking forward to following the progress of your build.

Cheers, D.

[Carib Classics]

So what do I have? Here goes, pics as I have them. Will try and put them in some sort of order

[Carib Classics]

Been trying to keep the build moving while I have some time. Its nearly Easter and the covers need to come off my other motor for the MOTs. So some more pics

[Carib Classics]

Easter is soon and other cars will demand time so big push next few weeks

[Carib Classics]

Where is the year going. Didn't seem that long that I re started my build but its been 3 very quick moths.
So an update:
New thoughts on the engine and have obtained a MX5 Donor. Yes change in direction but should have as much power going to the wheels.
Stripped most of the Donor, including some of the trans tunnel.
All wiring loom with ECU, and of course the gearbox.
Hope the rear end can keep up or there may be another rethink.

[Carib Classics]

My colours of Choice starts to GLOW

[Carib Classics]

Really enjoying this stage. Engine is in good condition generally, no smoke when tested prior to its removal.
General overhaul; New Cam belt, Water pump, Cam front seals, rust area cleaned sealed and repainted. Cam covers all replaced, used ones, cleaned and repainted.

[Carib Classics]

So Chassis bare metal and painted, suspension and running gear cleaned and uprated.
So the build which should have taken two/three years continues.

[Carib Classics]

Have tried to upload pics of current position with build but having no success. Could be my location as I am overseas on holiday.
Back next week so will upload.

[Carib Classics]

Just spent some time looking and reading Deni's build and it seems so different to mine.
My subframe has very different structure, I assume Deni built his?
A couple of things which is now holding up my build. Due to my lack of welding experience I have been totally dependant on Kevin my classic car Guru. He has been very ill since Covid and is just getting back on his feet. Also I am using a MX5 engine and gearbox. I am using this waiting period to dry fit and position the engine combination onto my Vitesse chassis. I think I am almost there , will post the pictures soon as I work out how , or when I am home after my holiday.
My kit has been collected from Dan at OldNo7, so floor panel have been dropped onto the chassis just before I left for my break and I look forward to some input from you guys, to avoid the Noddy driving position, I feel that is so critical with this kit, along with the stance of the car generally.
Once the engine and gearbox are fitted I think my progress will be quicker.

[Carib Classics]

7660HELP !!!!
Can anyone help with my pictures posting? Also some picture format uploads on some of the other threads I can't open? I have tried both my PC and Apple laptops. Do I need to switch on an extension? HELP !!!!!

[Carib Classics]

So my pictures are posted out of order, but wanted to share these and invite feedback from the build teams.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Always look great right out of the mould !
MX5 engine is a good choice these days, cheap to source and bullet proof !
Should go well in the light Triumph chassis.
Have to pop round and take a look some time !

[Carib Classics]

It would be great to see past builders

[Carib Classics]

Hi all, got my thread action back. Still on holiday so brain so relaxed. I will try and update where I am to date and show as much as possible so others can see and guild.
As this is my first rebody build I am always looking for detailed advice.
Most of my experience has been with rebuilding classiscs.

[deni]

Just spent some time looking and reading Deni's build and it seems so different to mine.
My subframe has very different structure, I assume Deni built his?


Hi Carib,
Just saw your post, it is nice to see another Miglia build postings. I really like your choice of engine/gearbox - it will suit Miglia for sure!

You're right, I've modified my frame as much as I could. Like yours, the frame I received was really basic and did not have the pedals/master cylinders plate, prop shaft tunnel, etc. I did not know how to weld, so I bought a basic gasless MIG welder and gave it a go. My welding skills are constantly improving, and my welds are not the prettiest, but they pass my hammering test and are strong enough.
The idea was to use fibreglass version of the original bulkhead that was to be supplied with kit, but apparently there were problems with fitting it. At the certain point they stopped making and supplying the bulkhead with the kit, but never modified and improved the frame to make up for the absence of it.
At the moment I'm working on the rear of the frame. I have decided to make a compartment behind the seats and install fuel tank in it, instead having it all the way at the rear. I'll post some photos when it's all done.
Looking forward to following your build and good luck with it.
Cheers, Deni.

P.S. I have same problems with the photos upload, something changed a while ago. I emailed the admin on a few occasions....

[peterux]

P.S. I have same problems with the photos upload, something changed a while ago. I emailed the admin on a few occasions....

I can't comment on hosting your pictures directly on this site as I've never used it.
I use Flickr to host my photo's.
Not sure, but I think you can still get a free Flickr account up to a 1000 photo's.
Once the photo is uploaded to Flickr you hit the 'Share' button and then paste the 'BBCode' into your draft post here. When you preview your post, the pictures appear.
Works everytime!

[deni]

Thanks Peterux, I might try using Flickr.

Cheers, Deni.

[Paul L]

Carib Classics - “Can anyone help with my pictures posting?”

peterux uses Flickr and I use Google Photos in a similar way.

I’ve just posted this on Deni’s build…

It is a pain, but adding [ i m g ] before and [ / i m g ] after the image link, without spaces, gives this…

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7674&d=1678888938

Looking good. :cool:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

“As this is my first rebody build I am always looking for detailed advice.”

“It would be great to see past builders”

@Carib Classics - Have you gone through the links on this thread?

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4782

Unfortunately, ‘Photobucket’ destroyed a lot of thread photos. :(

Similarly, the Sammio forum ‘next door’ has a lot of builds of a similar nature.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3526

Hope that helps and good luck, Paul. :)