View Full Version : Another little project!
DerbyDreamer
21st February 2014, 18:39
Evening all!
Thought I'd stop lurking and commit myself to publishing an introduction...
My name is Richard and I have been following the evolution of these beautiful machines over the last couple of years. Anyway, circumstances have, at last, conspired to allow me to start my build!
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-glJ1BkJexP8/UweYuoYSgPI/AAAAAAAAAAw/DKafZwYjfIg/s1600/20140221_165415.jpg
The body arrived on Monday and I have been trial fitting on a 1964 Vitesse 1600 chassis that I bought late last year. Like all things four wheeled in my life, they have already started to breed and now I have a 1967 2 litre (Sunday night eBay...!). Looks like the first chassis has to go now so I might try on the for sale board, before resorting to fleaBay...is that the done thing here - don't want to turn it into a market stall :ohwell:
So far body is sitting on frame and I got the Spitfire tank in today. Planning rear luggage store next - looks like B&Q for plywood this weekend then.
Hope that I can provide the same level of detail that some of you guys have done - started a blog at http://migliaspeedster.blogspot.co.uk/ which seems to make photo linking easy.
That's all for now,
Richard
rattler
21st February 2014, 19:09
hi d/d welcome chassis look good is it the green one for sale be good if you go on the location map rattler
DerbyDreamer
21st February 2014, 19:22
Yep, the green one is for the off - 1964, 1600cc with V5 - chassis restored, engine will need a rebuild.
davecymru
21st February 2014, 19:40
Welcome matey, good luck with the build! :)
mikmiglia
21st February 2014, 19:44
Welcome Richard, i will have the extras in the post for you , early next week.
Looking great , how much was you looking for the chassis and v5 ??
Thurcroft flyer
21st February 2014, 23:26
welcome Richard
I,m new to this forum posting myself should have no trouble selling the chassis it looks great, good luck with the build.
DerbyDreamer
22nd February 2014, 06:50
Thanks for the welcome guys! Nice to be around such a nice bunch!
Mike - will test the pm thing about the chassis.
christinedmc
22nd February 2014, 08:54
Hello Richard,
Welcome to the forum. You must have lot of ideas if you are thinking about your build for so long. I know I had!
What kind of overall look/result are you aiming for? For trackdays, for concours, period illusion, chique, personal free style, rat-look, replica, other?
With these builds, there are so many approaches that work well.
Michiel
DerbyDreamer
22nd February 2014, 09:39
Hi Michiel
Sooooo many ideas! I am inspired by the OSCA and Maserati racers from the 1950's really. Much as my two boys would like a red one, I am thinking air force blue, maybe, but with stickers! Already have a pair of Morris minor lights (like the red one on the Miglia website) although thinking I might look at alternatives...guess I hope to end up with a car that looks the part without the need to win the lottery!
Back to the garage! Rear luggage box is today's project.
Richard
DerbyDreamer
23rd March 2014, 15:07
Just looking at wheels to be able to set my body height and whilst the cheap set of 15" TR6 wires that I got would be nice, by the time I have bought the adaptors, had them sandblasted, new tyres, tubes etc....you get my drift....
Anyway, in my travels on the forums, it seems that the MGF might be another source (don't worry not alloys!) as the spare wheels seem to be available quite cheaply with largely unused tyres; they look surprisingly like fifties Dunlop steels with lots of holes. Now, if I could source some fake spinners...
Anwyay, to get the point, they have 175/65/14 tyres on them - should this clear the chassis and will I still need to limit the steering lock as Mr T did? Also, they have a warning sticker on them saying max 50mph - I assume that this is because the other wheels on the MGF would be bigger wheels? I'm sure that 50mph will be enough in the Miglia but I might get confident in it one day!
Reading this back I could have said it more concisely...sorry! :tape2:
Thoughts appreciated...
Richard
rattler
23rd March 2014, 16:12
hi dd my tyers are 175/70/14 I think thay fit spot on /mgb/14 inch wires/ about 110 mm clearance under the cherry bomb . hope this helps rattler
rattler
23rd March 2014, 16:16
hi dd thay also miss the b/h by 10mm
DerbyDreamer
5th July 2014, 16:40
Must be time for an update - lots of little jobs been going on...
Body shaped to fit over the chassis (was able to follow the flash lines in the gelcoat and it matched perfectly)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ui8zYkKCXRQ/U7gIBpUYctI/AAAAAAAAAYs/Y9yScQRi7HQ/s1600/Rear+end+fitted.jpg
Lights and grille make a big difference...
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcxGOb5XCCo/U7gIQiUuPWI/AAAAAAAAAY8/BnJdma46P3s/s1600/Fitting+headlights.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fHkAoj_vRkg/U7gGTjPGbOI/AAAAAAAAAWs/36xR3I52UWQ/s1600/Radiator+grille.jpg
Hours of procrastination needed to decide where to put the dials, but I eventually settled on a central array of instruments...
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9sr4RPXOgSE/U7gHX6uaDuI/AAAAAAAAAYc/uGH_zBCnAHg/s1600/1st+dashboard+idea.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mRgDRFBE1W8/U7gHUZ-KHdI/AAAAAAAAAYU/XYTgXCqwg_A/s1600/Final+instrument+layout.jpg
Shaping the dashboard has made access easier, but I will still need to extend the gearshift, as I can't quite reach 1st and 3rd!
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6lveDIVm4Z8/U7gGtiSbbaI/AAAAAAAAAXk/wLsFHpOR3So/s1600/Shaped+dashboard.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P0YbG_yNFS8/U7gGp8QYYTI/AAAAAAAAAXc/R1JH4VInZ38/s1600/Dashboard+profile.jpg
This central 'pod' will have an engine-turned aluminium panel to house the instruments, in the style of this custom Ford dash:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lVuF8IIcrtE/U7gMHa6Vt8I/AAAAAAAAAZE/H40C5aAhbhY/s1600/1932-ford-three-window-coupe-dashboard.jpg
Bought a sheet from Europa and shaped with bandsaw and holesaw:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1eAyozckhSg/U7gG2bA6RpI/AAAAAAAAAX0/j3vrdGosqnQ/s1600/Instrument+panel.jpg
Wanting to keep the front end in the 50's style, I couldn't find any very small bullet sidelights as used on the Maserati A6 GCS, so I have settled on leaving the sidelights in the headlight bowls and I have been able to produce some indicator 'pods' on a 3-D printer which will incorporate an orange LED indicator (the pods will, of course, be blended and painted in body colour).
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-znwq-kRdpgU/U7gMgqsJkKI/AAAAAAAAAZM/lWCTc9_hMpQ/s1600/Front+indicator+pods.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XQsyK6e2pn4/U7gGPNBF_HI/AAAAAAAAAWk/7y8iBU6wJVg/s1600/Front+indicator+profile.jpg
I have also been able to get the doors hung (using classic mini door hinges) and chosen my bucket seats to keep the driving position low enough:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zKY5U_gejJQ/U7gGftLapzI/AAAAAAAAAXE/K_X0RHglEM8/s1600/Door+hinges.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rZ_nh9pXF-4/U7gHQdxFaYI/AAAAAAAAAYM/dsgm_hQh26g/s1600/Driver%2527s+seat.jpg
Need to work on lowering the rear suspension now and adjust the rear wheel arches to give an equal gap around the tyre on each side:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IB-iufSqLxQ/U7gGe8NHzdI/AAAAAAAAAXA/ntG5cnRSfPc/s1600/O_S+rear+wheel+arch.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x_iYeJ98Ic0/U7gGYDFDJAI/AAAAAAAAAW0/lt5clb50Ins/s1600/N_S+rear+wheel+arch.jpg
I had originally thought about wire wheels but these proved to be very expensive to have reconditioned, so I settled on MGF spare wheels, which will have a dummy 'spinner' fitted:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JFm81TdEMEw/U7gGo0BKBhI/AAAAAAAAAXU/_DCE9V4b7ec/s1600/Wheel+detail.jpg
That's about it for now - hoping for the final pieces of the jigsaw soon, so that I can get the pedals, headrests and side vents fitted in the weeks ahead...
davecymru
6th July 2014, 17:42
Looking like you're making some really good progress!
I'm very jealous and itching for my kit to turn up, but i know I've got a few little jobs to finish first :)
You went for the vertical-bar grill as well then! That seems to be fast becoming the Miglia std grill :)
DerbyDreamer
6th July 2014, 20:28
Thanks Dave, although looking at your progress already, I think you'll get there first!
Quite motivated to create something like this Maserati A6 GCS:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9c/1954_Maserati_A6_GCS.jpg
Even managed to win a new/old bonnet badge on the Bay this week! Takes my mind off the bigger issues :ohwell:
Richard
Paul L
7th July 2014, 17:33
Looking like you're making some really good progress!
+1 :cool:
Your seats & steering wheel look very similar to mine, so I will be interested to see how yours comes together.
Good luck, Paul. :)
Barry Stard
7th July 2014, 20:50
Need to work on lowering the rear suspension now and adjust the rear wheel arches to give an equal gap around the tyre on each side:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IB-iufSqLxQ/U7gGe8NHzdI/AAAAAAAAAXA/ntG5cnRSfPc/s1600/O_S+rear+wheel+arch.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x_iYeJ98Ic0/U7gGYDFDJAI/AAAAAAAAAW0/lt5clb50Ins/s1600/N_S+rear+wheel+arch.jpg
Blimey, that's even worse than my old Sammio body. Think I will stick with it after all
DerbyDreamer
11th October 2014, 23:03
Really impressed to see the progress of others (especially those who have only recently got their bodies and are already well on the way!) so thought I'd post an update...
Lots of bits came together over the Summer - doors on, rear swing spring and lowering block fitted, dashboard finalised. Oh, and a change of chassis - partly because I wanted a bulkhead and the rigidity that it has brought to the body...and the opportunity to fit a 2 litre engine (although the thought of the extra horses slightly worries me!)
Pleased to get the instrument cluster sorted (it is turned ally under the protective plastic)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140720_135017_zpskowbs2nn.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_120019_zpsffjfwp3c.jpg
Front grille, indicators & badges sorted (I have the CAD drawing for the large oval grille badge if it's of any use :icon_exclaim:).
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07-20%2014.11.28_zpsduju2gbn.png
Bulkhead fitted...
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_160734_zpsf1nzsbfp.jpg
Template made....
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_122258_zpstgardngf.jpg
and now just a small gap to fill (thinking I might shorten the bonnet)...
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140715_163303_zpsalub5jav.jpg
and lastly, got my head around the rear storage area, for that impromptu picnic!
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/derbydreamer1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140720_135514_zpsusjgyxqj.jpg
Still a mountain to climb but you guys are great motivators (& checking your progress keeps me motivated:amen:)
Richard
DerbyDreamer
8th August 2019, 20:38
Verging on embarrassed that I have made such slow progress but...[insert appropriate excuse here]!!
Anyway...back on it now and had a productive few days.
One of the things I was procrastinating about was the lack of symmetry - those who are familiar with the Miglia will understand! I finally bit the bullet and performed surgery on the rear end today, with the result that I can now close both doors and put passenger seat back far enough to get a passenger in!
Before...
6275
and after surgery... (no idea why the image is rotated...sorry!)
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Before another five years goes by, I thought that I would seek advice from others who have split their bodies as to how to fill in the gap...do I need to work from underneath and if so, how best to ensure a decent surface finish that is going to be 'seamless'...all advice welcome.
Richard
Paul L
9th August 2019, 10:16
Derby Dreamer – Welcome back Richard. :cool:
I made a similar cut to the rear of my car…
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kKdkCoAxt1w/U8ga-BjdFLI/AAAAAAAAHpg/HH4gwtCBLsM/w960-h720-no/DSCF3409.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DVyw3AWilIw/U8gbUOF097I/AAAAAAAAHpw/2DikFQxVIYk/w540-h720-no/DSCF3410.JPG
With an extra slice off the driver’s side too.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3qiGuyljt2g/U-oq0khykEI/AAAAAAAAIU4/VTCvXFRhPMw/w960-h720-no/DSCF3490.JPG
Whilst I initially used fibreglass brackets, I later switched to Builders Band which was much better for this kind of work.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nehTTP71BOIcl0-5KMO8-2RA9uShhFuiA6HLiQHun3HaLIZwUaKU3cnQYGsmpLPKPpjPX4b 4njXoruRnE_7-BiefTOtH5uVdg0aCtPot5XQMxQXH2jHUSpXYU8FaNrxPVnQyRi rHKe4TpIqi_DhwMveBVeRiyMANLfoRhgZFjIje05nVobluj_Q-Dyucqc_jj14hGLZ-O-wXYx4MT-P6uWHfOwbxmHQauTrX6xr_XWvskG3Zai3ZpWavQfeWlnOW2WVb JAAq7r2zqRzC7paL6Y2BHvXEKyw8F77LDK36Uq3py6_YZt7uR1 aFCawEs7Z7dLQQ0UIb0NXG7t-Ql7QsrBdEM4zlARaaX-1HfoorRHWnKPqQmM2Iu338oU6JZQJUSOD-Ntk8Z70pI4ranhIpAL_hZCZeOpv_bYFPDZQYFt0uO1DqqZpYyo 6f_r89JUL53dBCHJOkA-dlIktt8903OeOA3anNlODl_w9U_P1HmEDlY8Sqd0H-lJb5OyH23ayUUfD1WjvMru4Z85PKg7sWtWAY-FxjAvBk0gVmO3oWgDXv2ZQ63PuU5wXkYiHPHZwAxWjUzR1JJKY zLtW7J3TZIOvlHBBfpjl3=w1154-h865-no
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To get a “seamless” join, you will have to tackle the gap from both sides.
I used brown parcel tape as a release agent that the fibreglass matting will not stick to.
You can either simply put it on cardboard, or even some modelling mesh.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q4xGb0juUDQ/U-y0lqSaYII/AAAAAAAAIaA/q_w94jAlXsY/w960-h720-no/DSCF3474.JPG
At first, I tried to work inside the gap created by the brackets on the outside.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5GRKg6t68-s/U8kJneP_JtI/AAAAAAAAHrM/ar1tW7wGax8/w540-h720-no/DSCF3424.JPG
Before filling both the gap and joining the two sides together.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QkzyVleotT8/U8kKJMkJ03I/AAAAAAAAHrc/9o26vy4KVEY/w540-h720-no/DSCF3426.JPG
Note:
This was at an early stage and extra matting was added across the join as the real strength comes from below.
Later on, I put the brown tape across the join from the outside, held in place by the brackets.
Believe it, or not, but this mess gave me a smooth surface to work on the other side.
(Note: The use of parcel tape on a yoga mat to create a curve. )
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dI0Jq2kPgbI/VLZA-nOHf4I/AAAAAAAALvw/eQ3oNrhe7p0/w540-h720-no/DSCF4198.JPG
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Once you have added strength to the inside surface, you can remove the brackets and tidy up the ‘sunny side’.
This shows that, initially, you will have ugly joins where the original body shell meets the new extension piece.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kXEzudmPcQw/U-zow7L3jOI/AAAAAAAAIcY/I2xm43hCIDc/w960-h720-no/DSCF3490.JPG
Note: The bracket holes have all been countersunk to help the fibreglass filler work better.
These photos from work on my doors give a better example of tidying up the join.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-smK2HFhPMG0/U5mX_BiaFuI/AAAAAAAAGSM/IysCWSfKeXs/w960-h720-no/DSCF2786.JPG
The small join gap is ground out into a “V” which is narrow and the bottom and wider at the top.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3X9_DrkAS-I/U5mZ2Gwp0KI/AAAAAAAAGSw/QvaNkDvFUm8/w960-h720-no/DSCF2788.JPG
To fill this, I cut out a selection of fibreglass strips in various widths.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Rq4dszefDCk/U5mbbh-7v-I/AAAAAAAAGTU/KG4UcxZaE0U/w960-h720-no/DSCF2794.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9HspFB0gP8o/U5mby-euPCI/AAAAAAAAGTk/Qj7xdKbqaUo/w540-h720-no/DSCF2795.JPG
Then I slowly built up the layers of matting in the V.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VT_-fCafle8/U5mbrb6Un1I/AAAAAAAAGTc/CZYwBWnRcBU/w960-h720-no/DSCF2793.JPG
Before a final layer of filler to tidy things up a bit more.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XCIoC6--UgA/U6gbJcV36HI/AAAAAAAAGxo/476v7fptKgI/w960-h720-no/DSCF3022.JPG
By the time the sanding is finished and the primer is on, you can’t see the join on the sunny side.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9fhTf8kfRIA/VBl67KTTHII/AAAAAAAAJf4/ybi_0yOusHc/w960-h720-no/DSCF3785.JPG
The photo above, also shows how the rear wing chop has also blended in.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Anyway, I hope that helps.
Also, as far as I am concerned, it doesn’t really matter how long you build take if you actually finish it.
As that first drive will make all the effort seem worthwhile. :cool:
Good luck, Paul. :)
DerbyDreamer
9th August 2019, 18:03
Wow! Thank you, Paul!
I was hoping for a few pointers and you took the time and effort to produce such a detailed guide - that's fantastic!:bounce:
Just hope that my wife won't notice when her yoga mat gets a little bit shorter!
Onwards and upwards...
Richard
DerbyDreamer
13th August 2019, 17:56
On a bit of a roll...
Having sorted the rear, I fitted the screen using Mr. Towed's trusty rubber well nuts and suddenly things are looking better! Before I left my job, I printed the housings for very discrete LED indicators which will be painted in body colour (now decided - more later). These will need an inline resistor to work with the flasher unit, but I can mount these on the frame inside the engine bay.
6284
Need to address the negative camber and I have re-read davecymru's thread so will have to take the plunge for new adjustable shocks and springs at some point, although I see that Canley's do an adjustable top wishbone - anyone tried one?
Just waiting on some more aluminium to make a mounting for the fusebox. I opted to keep the original bulkhead (it was the only one I had!) so have drilled a big hole to route the loom inside the footwell and there were some conveniently placed holes already there to bring engine bay cables back out again - result!
6286
A slight conundrum withe the brake master cylinder - I bought a 3/4" uprated one to replace the original very big 5/8" one in the hope that it would fit under the front wing but alas, still a bit of a clash...I could move the frame rail but it would still make removing the lid / filling with fluid difficult. Guessing a remote filler version would be the answer - Wilwood seem to do a good range - all thoughts welcome!...
6285
Hopefully, the weather will hold, so I can crack on :flame:
Richard
keith
13th August 2019, 20:26
The adjustable top wishbone works well and you can always get some spacers for the bottom wishbone brackets but may need to extend the bolt through the chasses. look at www.wolfitt.com he has some good information on Triumph.
DerbyDreamer
19th August 2019, 09:35
Thanks for the suspension info Keith - will take a look at Wolfitt.
In between tidying the garage, whilst labourer is back from Uni, I have finalised a few more bits and pieces...
The nearside wheel arch has never fitted the wheel (which I showed previously), so out with the jigsaw and more surgery:
6293
Much better!
Mounted the screen and finalised the profile for the weather/retaining strip:
6291
This made a bit more space for fitting a rearview mirror which I bought as a blind spot mirror. Unfortunately, the field of view is just about the width of the two headrests, so it creates more blind spots than it solves! Thinking about an early Beetle oval one...
6290
Finally cut out vents on wings and test fitted my 3D printed grilles - the centre one has a modification for an LED indicator repeater (the same type used on the front) which I thought might be an added safety feature:
6294
And finally...a bit of bling...found a local metal laser cutter in Derby who was able to cut out the front trident from my DXF file:
6292
Chip, chip, chippin' away!
Richard
Mister Towed
20th August 2019, 07:33
Starting to come together nicely. Not sure if you've thought of this, but a 'rubber' sealing strip along the bottom edge of the screen frame stops water coming through underneath it and gives a more finished look.
My trimmer gave me a suitable length of open 'P' shaped seal and I can't seem to find it online now, but there are lots of options. Check out E Type edge seal ATJ1927 in the link as it looks suitable -
https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68#86
Keep up the good work!
Paul L
20th August 2019, 21:50
Richard - Looks like your progress is started to gain some momentum. :cool:
So keep plugging away, as every job done is one less to do.
Good luck, Paul. :)
PS
The side indicator should work well and I like your cockpit mirror too.
deni
21st August 2019, 00:00
[QUOTE=DerbyDreamer;101684]On a bit of a roll...
6284
Hi Richard,
Nice to see you are back on the build and on a roll. I'm not as far as you are, but I'm constantly thinking of ways to approach mounting of the body and find the best position to minimize the effects of symmetry (or a lack of it :eusa_angel:).
I was wondering if you have any photos of your front inner arches you've attached to the frame please? Are they flush with the top of the frame rails or did you raise the front of the body (closer to the radiator) above the frame at all?
Also, if you have any photo of the body position by radiator area (without bonnet), that would be great. Did you have such a difference in distance from the frame from one side to another, like in the photo below?
6320
The photo above shows my body just resting on the frame and follows the frame lines by the front and back bulkhead area. The inner (back) side of my dashboard panel is parallel and against the frame, which should provide a reference for forward/back position of the body, but there is obvious issue with the alignment at the front....
Any advice would help.
Thank you.
Cheers, Deni
Paul L
21st August 2019, 17:27
DerbyDreamer & Deni – I hope the following helps.
Without wishing to drag up a big row from the past, the original Sammio Cordite bonnet…
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QxBpuKGrpYU/U7qbNzlw31I/AAAAAAAAHRk/4SsLASgS3XY/w960-h720-no/DSCF3265.JPG
Was used as the starting point for developing the Miglia Speedster bonnet.
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1610&d=1410693687
This was a big improvement in the area between the driver’s side headlight & the bonnet opening.
But the ‘wonky’ nose remained.
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My top tip would be to just ignore the symmetry issues if you can.
Because, in the real world, no one else notices the same things that we see when building the cars.
I know there is an issue with the nose, so I can see it in this photo.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll115/mikefto/germanmigliaferrari1.jpg
Thankfully, most people will simply see a great looking car and many will believe it is a Ferrari. :cool:
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However, if you really want to straighten things out, the joy of fibreglass is you can do what you want.
Note: It is always a mistake to put a straight line anywhere near these cars. :icon_wink:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dNZU1kDEmHk/VJgQgeaba7I/AAAAAAAALJo/2i2ue0R46GA/w540-h720-no/DSCF4109.JPG
As this will always lead to more work, even if the cut and join is straight forward.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Wrh0_cz87Ho/VJlehTuiDRI/AAAAAAAALKM/-msgcOhakpI/w540-h720-no/DSCF4114.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aXMfP4CN5cI/VJlfTi0jC8I/AAAAAAAALKU/eBmVXx-ylyw/w540-h720-no/DSCF4117.JPG
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In the end, I spent a lot of hours butchering my bonnet and then piecing it back together again.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q5PG11x_TAg/VLaK2F6isDI/AAAAAAAALx8/oyUgKL2_Vm8/w960-h720-no/DSCF4203.JPG
But, by the time you finish all the work, you can’t see the joins.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tcRnd6Y8y6I/VMkJ1b0viuI/AAAAAAAAMQw/cudC52V0F64/w960-h720-no/DSCF4238.JPG
Please Note:
Despite throwing a HUGE number of hours at this, I still didn't achieve perfect symmetry. :rolleyes:
So the key thing to remember is that back in the ‘50s, these cars were built like this…
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/05/3d/64/053d642947a56f6e36c0863e11fc5d26.jpg
Not like this. :icon_twisted:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V0lyQA_wO2PBfFlA9ZRsHFCAttRKGAuUfdsmuyJHjWCgsGfYiO d6Dav2Lr1ghuBbzd_SLdOrL8k_g48_AEyjmbC1ipAKIqj3XEei wkdijbpJ5m5iteEfGlupWtTCoe2kzrwTWBDOVL3WadVYRQnux3 O863mHUMCQvCBbiCbaPd2Jp9BKvNx_o34V8g4aY3bEdE1lPyFL gBhFv7-dEodjLXlQnOCNqCO9Q2JIkugaQo_Cs57WYOFuGyiK97ix1rdzO ZlfAvliZGM_JTIKIKgP0FGB453KO2y9OPZ5Bm7LWlr26STrlPt BpIqt0uX93QFwD7jT6sIyt_HLS5zjPeTB0BZyiU0UwvXvXBNkw MwW6oFoyZHX4SJxmxmYBIFIFveyXTJzdGDBEOWzi1rvMw6OFiP 3LVF92J8dRRDlatyEZiCwTYVmYHKWU0hu0yo2rOX6pNhfr0LnJ LYcslgZ1K2ATgXHT57L11OP0FpVm7nPFdAbol7ADUieBQ1ylsM qgH6pxgOudOvlXMcZdeNr_AXVvZ7xtac1FVtx0UlIAzowGBSmQ sHnOWdFYgWtUOcoPIdynlwNM8Sokkgsp98zUXcBImMjCCCBkG1 dlilxuqGzDqu2di1MvgEk5CExIjzrka_oNpLuK7LxTFtN9ea9H XsfCSLW7Dg9WJK6=w670-h416-no
So if anyone does ask, just say the body shell for the car was hand built. :D
Good luck, Paul. :)
DerbyDreamer
22nd August 2019, 16:04
Thanks for the lip seal idea, Mr T - will have a measure up!
Deni, I will get hold of some more detailed photos for you.
Thanks for the 'grounding' Paul! It pays to remind ourselves where 'specials' started!!
DerbyDreamer
22nd August 2019, 17:07
Deni,
I have tried to show some details of the bonnet frame - they are different and I think I will end up moving one of them, in order to create some space for my brake master cylinder, as I am using the original Vitesse bulkhead which seems to set the pedals higher?
6327
6328
The front cross bar will also need to move forward when I adjust the side frames, as I opted for the original style radiator and want to fit a fan to the front of it, so need to make a bit more room.
6326
I don't have any front wheel arches but have read of others adapting trailer wheel arches to fit inside the front wings. I do have a pair of these for the rear and they will fit over the rear axle when I take the body off to complete the rear end surgery...
6325
Let me know if I can take any more photos or measurements and I will have a look at mine.
Cheers
Richard
deni
22nd August 2019, 18:20
Paul L - Thank you for your sound advice and the photos, valuable as always.
I'm intending to keep it as simple as possible and I'm hoping to avoid cutting the body and wheel arches if possible. I'm ok with it not being perfect, and I know I would end up chasing my own tail if I would try to make it perfect. However, it is good to get as much info/references as possible (not many Miglia builds are on the forum compared to Sammio) in order to find the best position before bonding the body permanently.
DerbyDreamer - thanks a lot, the photos are very helpful.
My frame also has different left and right bonnet rails, but luckily it is not difficult to modify this if necessary.
I saw you are using the original bulkhead, but I can't see any of photos from your old posts on your thread, so I thought I'll ask a few questions.
You can see in the picture I've posted that I have an alignment problem at the front. There is a big difference in distance from the front bonnet opening edge to the front frame rail on the left side compared to the right.
Can I just ask, now you have the body in position, how much difference in distance have you ended up with please? The measurement will do, but if you have a photo similar to mine, that would be great.
Thanks.
Deni
DerbyDreamer
22nd August 2019, 19:20
Deni,
I have made some measurements: the line on the green tape marks the centre of the metal frame and the orange tape shows the distance from the centre of the frame to the edge of the bonnet opening; as you can see, there is 50mm difference. That said, the centre of the radiator (also marked in orange) is not far off the centre of the frame, leading me to think that the opening is off centre, which I can live with!
6329
The other useful thing to check is that the front edge of the wheel arches actually tuck around the front chassis 'horns' quite well on each side and I think this will be a useful body mounting point...
6330
Hope that helps...
Richard
deni
22nd August 2019, 21:00
Thanks for your reply Richard.
So sorry, but I meant the measurement length-ways (please see the arrows in photo below).....no rush, just when you have time.
6331
Thanks.
Cheers,Deni
DerbyDreamer
23rd August 2019, 09:51
Apologies, Deni - I misread your original question!
I have added the forward measurements here and there is a 20mm difference between the two sides (the measurements were taken at the edge of the radiator to the furthest forward edge of the opening, effectively where the bonnet will sit).
6334
I did also check the distance from the front frame to the bulkhead and this is within 10mm on either side.
Hope that helps!
Richard
deni
23rd August 2019, 12:20
Thanks a lot Richard, it's a great help. I was unable to work on my car since March now, but will start again in a few days hopefully - looking forward to it!
Your car is coming together well so far and it will look great when when it's finished. I like your dash design and its position, looks really good.
Looking forward to following your progress and good luck with the 'plastic (fibreglass) surgery' :).
Cheers, Deni.
DerbyDreamer
16th May 2020, 11:56
Well...all this time at home has led to me running out of excuses!
The good news.....she runs!! It looks like the carbs have been rebuilt at some point though and from what I can see looking at Vitesse photos, there should be a choke lever on the left hand side?...Hoping the wise collective will be able to advise...maybe someone even has one in their box o' bits? A close up photo would also help!
6787
6788
Body is currently upside down on the drive and awaiting the completion of surgery to the rear wing - following Paul's yoga mat trick - photos to follow :icon_smile:
DerbyDreamer
20th May 2020, 14:01
Having performed surgery on the rear wing last year (no point rushing these things!..) I have now filled in the gaps. Paul's 'yoga mat and parcel tape method' was brilliant:
6801
Having enough bodies at home at the moment allowed easy flipping of the tub to create access from underneath, with the body suspended on trestles:
6802
The great reveal the following day left a really strong valley which I can now add fibreglass filler and body filler to:
6803
Whilst the body was inverted, I was also able to bond in the bulkhead extension which will hide the original Vitesse bulkhead which I have used:
6804
Having created a return lip on the front of this, I can now get the bonnet to fit, although it does have a 3-inch gap at the front, so will need some cuts to get it to follow the wing curve, I suspect:
6805
Have run out of polyester resin for now so turning my attention to modifying/remaking the steel frame that sits on the chassis....more soon!
Richard
Hi Rich, ref your post about the choke I think you have the throttle cable attached to the choke, the one to the left you are looking for is for the throttle. I have attached a picture of mine but you have got me wondering now if mine is the wrong way round, it runs perfectly so I am convinced mine is correct, hopefully a lot more knowledgeable than me will have the answer
DerbyDreamer
20th May 2020, 22:18
Alex, thank you - you have saved me a lot of head-scratching! You are right, I had put the throttle cable into the choke position :doh:
Now the problem I have is that the bracket on the manifold that supports the throttle cable and the one on the end of the butterfly spindle are missing....any close-up photos or dimensions would be great - thinking I might have to fabricate something....not short of time at the moment!....
Richard
Paul L
21st May 2020, 06:18
<Flash Back>
<Shudder>
<Nervous Tic>
:icon_wink:
Jokes aside, glad to see the yoga mat suggestion helped.
Don't forget to grind off the edges of 'channel' on the sunny side of the bodywork.
That way you can build up layers of fibreglass across the width of the join.
Good luck, Paul. :)
Hi Rich, I will take some photos and measurements over the weekend
Hi Rich, close up photos attached and some basic dimensions, the bracket that the throttle cable attaches to is offset with a slight angle on it which is difficult to put exact dimensions on but hopefully the photos will help you to make something suitable
DerbyDreamer
27th May 2020, 18:17
Alex, that is really excellent detail! I was hoping for a couple of pics and that would have been a start....but a full CAD drawing!!!! You are a star! I have the throttle cable on order which should be here this week, so that's my weekend sorted. Thank you!
Hi Rich, close up photos attached and some basic dimensions, the bracket that the throttle cable attaches to is offset with a slight angle on it which is difficult to put exact dimensions on but hopefully the photos will help you to make something suitable
DerbyDreamer
12th June 2020, 15:53
Thanks to Alex's accurate measurements and brilliant CAD drawing, I finally got the missing brackets fabricated - amazing what you can do with a vice, a hammer and an angle grinder! :smokin:
6891
Just missing the bolt to hold it to the manifold so thought I would check with the wise before I knacker the thread - a 1/4 UNF only goes in one turn so I'm thinking UNC for castings?
Hoping someone will know....
Richard
Alex
12th June 2020, 19:52
Great work Rich, really pleased it worked out, you could go into mass production now and probably make a few quid :thumb:
Mister Towed
13th June 2020, 07:27
Just missing the bolt to hold it to the manifold so thought I would check with the wise before I knacker the thread - a 1/4 UNF only goes in one turn so I'm thinking UNC for castings?
Hoping someone will know....
Richard
Hi Richard, I can't find an exact reference for the accelerator bracket bolt specification, but it's likely to be the same as on the Spitfire. That uses two HU755 setscrews, which are 1/4x5/8 UNC. That would explain why your 1/4 UNF jams in the thread.
Rimmer Bros. have them in stock at 37p plus 13p for the locking washer -
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005608
DerbyDreamer
14th June 2020, 13:07
Thanks Mr T - that's the mystery solved then! Ironic that the shipping is ten times the cost of the part!! With a bit of luck, I can go for a proper start this week - complete with cooling system plumbed in :-)
Lucky@LeMans
14th June 2020, 20:09
Most British cars of that era will feature imperial thread sizes, UNC and UNF being the most common. The Yanks still haven't gone metric so these old sizes still feature on their new cars to a large extent !
Saying that just about all European cars feature both imperial and metric sizing to this day, when was the last time you bought a fully metric tyre ? The width is metric but the diameter is imperial, lol !
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