new miglia builder

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi all
my name is ian, and I have been reading all your posts avidly for some time now. Think this site is really great, all your builds look first class, and the ideas you spread about are very helpfull and thought provoking.
I decided a few month ago to try and build a miglia speedster, think the car and idea are brilliant. I built a jc midge around 12 years ago, on a 2ltr vitesse chassis, and have restored numerous classics, a mg midget, a Morris's minor pick up, and a 1926 morris 8.
although the midge gave me the most satisfaction of the lot. So I have bought myself a 1964 1600 six vitesse, which I have started to recondition to a rolling chassis base, ready to attach a miglia body. I have no time scale as yet, but engine as been reckoned, and gear box back on. chassis members have been changed as required, but it is not painted yet, and running gear req,s refurb.
Not placed any deposit for kit yet as space is a premium, living in a three storey house with an integral garage ( and a misses who finds me plenty of other things to do) hope she,s not reading this. Any way I will keep you posted on progress , and hope to post some pics, nice to be able to join in, catch you all later, thanks.

[rattler]

hi ian welcome iam on the down hill bit hope to paint in 3/4 weeks rattler

[Thurcroft flyer]

yes I ,ve been following your thread, car looks great, wish I was that far in, I think the pleasure of building these type of cars is the fact that you can take your time, have a break, come back and change things etc, and when it goes wrong slam the garage door, and go to the pub.you will know yourself nothing seems to happen on the build as you tinker away, and then it seems to all come together rather quickly, and before you know your on the road.

[mikmiglia]

Hi Ian floor pans will be with you in the next couple of weeks.

Welcome on board , any help needed just ask .

Kind Regards Mike

[Thurcroft flyer]

thanks mike, most helpful.true gent.

[rattler]

ian very true only prob here no pubs////////////

[mas123mas]

", have a break, come back and change things etc, and when it goes wrong slam the garage door, and go to the pub.you will know yourself nothing seems to happen on the build as you tinker away, and then it seems to all come together rather quickly, and before you know your on the road."

Welcome, Thank you I have just realised why I never got around to build the Ribble and why it has took me so long to sort Vitesse chassis for the Miglia:-
1. The Mrs finding me jobs to do
2. The pub (although this is a very good place to contemplate ideas, just don't go on eBay on your return home!!!!)

But just think how nice it will be to travel to the pub in the summer, have one pint and travel back. I personally can't wait. #

Good luck and luck forward to seeing your build.

[Mister Towed]

Hi TF, sounds like you know your way around a classic so this should be a fairly straightforward build for you. Looking forward to seeing it progress. :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi nice to meet you mr towed, love your car!!!!!!!! I will be happy to have a finished car like yours. I will try and post some photos later today, if I can sort out loading pis on to forum.??????

[mas123mas]

Try this link, some good info for posting pictures, also are you using photobucket?

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3076

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/0f33b6c07bdfa9de09a6e632e05764a8_zps5d0c4c94.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/0f33b6c07bdfa9de09a6e632e05764a8_zps5d0c4c94.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/b8a5b534a0edc555e9345cb77ba23d16_zps61dc0b81.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/b8a5b534a0edc555e9345cb77ba23d16_zps61dc0b81.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/d34d4ebb734efe1793b7a9ddba0d25e0_zps8eb76d9f.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/d34d4ebb734efe1793b7a9ddba0d25e0_zps8eb76d9f.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/ab8aa94faec5bc96c695d7bf3c7b7dec_zps86028aa4.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/ab8aa94faec5bc96c695d7bf3c7b7dec_zps86028aa4.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/c8bd95826da8204d368d75ded10487bd_zps335a12fa.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/c8bd95826da8204d368d75ded10487bd_zps335a12fa.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

[URL=http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/108894e6abfa8112e02694e7a43a6bed_zpsce3a4c0a.jpg.h tml]http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/108894e6abfa8112e02694e7a43a6bed_zpsce3a4c0a.jpg[/URL

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/87af039ae0a5eb98f628a33d3c273a5f_zps09d01bc9.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/87af039ae0a5eb98f628a33d3c273a5f_zps09d01bc9.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/2311588d620a0349d88fe724768f09c6_zpsa88515a3.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/2311588d620a0349d88fe724768f09c6_zpsa88515a3.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

[URL=http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/122c6c18d86f2528b14d663a61cffd75_zps7f5c00e2.jpg.h tml]http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/122c6c18d86f2528b14d663a61cffd75_zps7f5c00e2.jpg[/URL

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/931c6ae36b285bf9f437f2ba14cf889c_zpsc663f8c5.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/931c6ae36b285bf9f437f2ba14cf889c_zpsc663f8c5.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/e866e6db8c2d1fe009249ec1c039ba15_zps6a7bbda3.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/e866e6db8c2d1fe009249ec1c039ba15_zps6a7bbda3.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/675e8521bdf40948b8011a3fc7b6b814_zps0b012eec.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/675e8521bdf40948b8011a3fc7b6b814_zps0b012eec.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/8537aed81cc79f7008606a417c7a46d5_zps13e05384.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/8537aed81cc79f7008606a417c7a46d5_zps13e05384.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/ff4e95b990fda0270289ddaa007e8da1_zpsf121abb1.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/ff4e95b990fda0270289ddaa007e8da1_zpsf121abb1.jpg.h tml)

[Thurcroft flyer]

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w600/26ytcphotos/937a05cee955272f90cee9b52079e9b0_zps649cbec7.jpg (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/26ytcphotos/media/937a05cee955272f90cee9b52079e9b0_zps649cbec7.jpg.h tml)

[mas123mas]

Engine and Chassis looking good, was there many repairs to do, mine needed new rails (one was missing), outrigger (two fell off), plus rear extensions where completely rotten.

Hopefully get mine painted in the next few weeks then I can start to build. Have you got your bodywork yet?

[Thurcroft flyer]

had trouble loading photos but I think I have got there in the end, just to show you progress so far, next suspension and brakes, parts on bench waiting to be fitted, just got to make time to get in garage

[Thurcroft flyer]

no body work as yet , car was a so called restoration project that had been stood for a couple of years, but offside centre chassis member had been put in at an angle to the corresponding rail so I fitted a new one, just stripping down parts assessing condition, and changing as required. I am going to see if I can order the frame, and bulk head first. maybe put a deposit on the body, as I don't have a lot of storage space in garage or on drive as we have a car , works van, and a transit motorhome

[swifty]

Hi Thurcroft
Nice looking stright 6, did you have to do much refurb work to it. I have just stripped a straight 6 down and it needs a few new parts replacing along with some machine work which i have asked for a quote with a local engine machine shop.

[Thurcroft flyer]

I bought the vitesse as a so called older restoration project, and although some parts of the car have been refurbed I don't think they have been done to a good standard.Removed head to inspect engine, six new +20 thou pistons fitted, new timing chain sump gaskets etc, so looks like block was overhauled and then they just stuck the old head back on, with out cleaning up. same with suspension, looks like new bushes fitted, but wrong bolts have been fitted, so threads don't even go in to plastic part of nyloc nuts, going to have to strip check and replace as required, just for peace of mind.hopefully keep the cost down, I don't want to build a show car, more of an authentic 50's speedster, and keep the essence of the triumph mechanicals. to me that's what makes the cars different, I am not a hot hatch fan, more a wow the looks nice, and different what is it.

[rattler]

hi looking good rattler:peace:

[Thurcroft flyer]

is it just me having problems logging back on to this site or has something happened...????????

[JG]

is it just me having problems logging back on to this site or has something happened...????????

Not just you, we are experiencing an issue at the moment

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?p=52610#post52610

We have implemented a workaround to get round logging in etc but hoping for a permanent fix shortly.

Cheers, John

[Thurcroft flyer]

as anybody tried de-rating the rear transverse spring on the vitesse chassis by removing leaf springs. I did it years ago on my midge to take the camber out of the rear wheels, worked well, and handled great,I just can't remember exactly which leaf springs I removed, as I followed the build manual, although I remember it wasn't correct and I had to play around with it to find best position. wondered if someone can save me a bit time, with any guidance thanks

[Paul L]

Thurcroft Flyer - Have you read Mister Towed's Sammio build thread?

He also starts removing extra leaf springs from Page 2 of his "On the road" thread.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4482

Hope that helps, Paul. :)

PS
Good luck with your build.

[Thurcroft flyer]

thanks for that info Paul I will have a look on his site

[rattler]

hi tt I changed to swing spring with 1 inch lowering block wheels look spot on but the suspension seems very stiff but will not know till I drive the car .just waiting for a slot in the spray shop .wont be long now I also cut 65 mm off front springs rattler

[Mister Towed]

Rear leaf spring is very easy to 'adjust' by removing/adding leaves to alter the ride and ride height.

I started by taking out the top three 'loose' leaves and putting an 80mm lowering block between the spring and diff. I also cut down the top three springs and used them as shims under the spring to lower it even further -

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z371/dmonebillion/Davidpics234.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dmonebillion/media/Davidpics234.jpg.html)

I soon removed the three shims as it was obvious that it would be too low even before I fitted the body.

Once the car was on the road I found that, even though it looked great, the car was too low both front and rear and kept fouling the ground.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/109_zps50baae16.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/109_zps50baae16.jpg.html)

It was also rock solid at the front and just too firm at the back for my liking, so I set about making some changes.

I replaced the 175/70/14 tyres with higher profile 175/80/14's and changed the 95mm cut down 220lb Vitesse front springs for 150lb Mk1 Spitfire fronts cut down by 25mm and a thicker arb, which raised and softened the front.

I then tried various combinations at the back - removing the next three leaves in the stack, switching the 80mm lowering block initially for a 50mm, then just the three shims (15mm) -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/004_zps75ae0724.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/004_zps75ae0724.jpg.html)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/005_zps71ce348f.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/005_zps71ce348f.jpg.html)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/001_zps3a8f652c.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/001_zps3a8f652c.jpg.html)

I eventually settled on replacing two of the last three removed leaves with no lowering block at all. This has made the ride and handling spot on, it's compliant with no discernible body roll, it's given me enough ground clearance and left the stance looking not too shabby either -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/002_zpsccc96521.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/002_zpsccc96521.jpg.html)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/003_zpseae88651.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/003_zpseae88651.jpg.html)

Good luck!

[Thurcroft flyer]

thanks lads for that info I will take it all on board, and thanks for the photos mr towed your car does look special sat parked with the run of the mill square boxes, it sits really well.

[Thurcroft flyer]

well after deliberation, and trial and error with rear spring, I decided to go with swing spring and 1 inch lowering block at rear, with 1 inch lowered front coil springs from canleys.

[Thurcroft flyer]

133413341334just trying to remember how to post photos

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body and frame arrive happy days , but lots of work1343

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[Paul L]

Your rolling chassis looks very nice. :cool:

Good luck with the rest of the build, Paul. :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

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trying body and frame on for initial fit, frame not sat down correctly, but not too far off1349

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[garyh]

Keep the photos coming, i'd like to see how the floorpans go in and how you bond it all together.

[davecymru]

I'm loving the job you've done on the chassis, its certainly giving me some ideas of what to aim for with mine!

Out of interest, have you gone for a red gel coat on your body?

[Marc F]

Nice to see - and will be interesting to see how the red gel coat pans out - or will you spray as well?

[davecymru]

Have you / do you have to lower the radiator with this Miglia kit?

I know i did on the Sammio and TBH it's not a problem, but if i don't have to then that will be great! :)

[Mister Towed]

Have you / do you have to lower the radiator with this Miglia kit?

I know i did on the Sammio and TBH it's not a problem, but if i don't have to then that will be great! :)

Isn't it in the comprehensive build manual?

[Thurcroft flyer]

Have you / do you have to lower the radiator with this Miglia kit?

I know i did on the Sammio and TBH it's not a problem, but if i don't have to then that will be great! :)

I have gone with a red gel coat as i want to mot test and get on the road before I have it painted, thought it would just keep it all, one colour, plus I will be spraying it red any way in the end. the radiator as remained in the original mounting place as on the vitesse, but the body frame also fits to these mounts, so I advise you not to fit your rad to vehicle until you sit your frame on. I then had to trim the rad mounts just to get it to sit flush. I sat the frame on when it was delivered just to be able to get it all in garage, that is why the body looks high at the front in the photos, this will sit lower down over the front wheels now I have fastened the frame on correctly, and rad is now back on.

[davecymru]

Cheers matey, in which case i'll not refit the new rad yet and i'll wait for the frame to turn up before messing around.
That'll give me time to sort a few other bits n bobs out :



Isn't it in the comprehensive build manual?

:icon_rolleyes:

[Thurcroft flyer]

floor pans, frame now in situ on chassis rewelded new rear outriggers on, but cut them down anyway can't really see it being a problem with dvla, but if it is I will weld the ends back on, and see what they say then. put tank, and fuel pipe in as well.1355

[Thurcroft flyer]

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[Thurcroft flyer]

mounted clutch and brake pedal. tried seat in position to check steering column, and driving position. well it's either cut my legs off, or chop the frame, and pedals to reposition, as the frame must have been made for a midget, back to the drawing board ........now where was that hacksaw????????1378

[Thurcroft flyer]

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[garyh]

very nice seats...

[Mister Towed]

Yep, very nice seats. They really fit the space available.

Perhaps your legs are supposed to go over the steering.

That setup's been used successfully before if you think back to the eighties. For best results you just need to be naked from the waist down...

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag120/smonebillion/c5_side_l_zps97644565.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/smonebillion/media/c5_side_l_zps97644565.jpg.html)

[Marc F]

A scary prospect...

But the build is looking good.

[Thurcroft flyer]

he,s got better legs than my missus????????? oH dear I think she she's caught me posting this, time to do some grovelling

[Thurcroft flyer]

seats are eBay buy, supposedly out of a vw camper, may recover later, if I find them comfy, hopping to get seating position as low as possible

[swifty]

Build looking good with good progress Thrucroft Flyer.

Are the seats a second hand buy or from a company on ebay?

[Thurcroft flyer]

the seats are a secondhand buy, but. in good condition. lok like fibreglass shells trimmed in vinyl, liked the look of them with having the low back.bought them as a buy it now, has soon as I saw them I hit the button, must have just dropped on them at the right time, actual bought them months ago.

[Paul L]

... back to the drawing board ........now where was that hacksaw????????

Not sure if this photo from TlrTone's Miglia build will help.

http://www.mymigliaspeedster.co.uk/build/2013-07-20%20-%20Storage%20Box/2013-07-21%2018.53.49.jpg

I know he had a different set of pedals, so wanted a "non standard" set up.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

decided to move the pedal mounts, so added 5 and 1/2 inch in to frame, and also shortened pedals by 1 inch pedals now in a more comfortable position, and
I have plenty of seat adjustment on the dropped floor pan. also added frame work at rear to attach bulkhead, and make storage space, behind seats1388

[Thurcroft flyer]

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[davecymru]

Out of interest, how tall are you matey?

I'm only asking as i'm hoping that i fit the 'default' size of Miglia frame without having to do any chopping-n-changing. But having seen what you've done it looks simple enough to alter if i have to :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

I actually only 5 foot 10, but when I positioned the seats I will be using in the dropped floor pan, it was a very uncomfortable position to work the pedals, and if I raised the seat out of the floor pan, it was defeating the point of haveing dropped pans. also I had no seat adjustment, as it was in its fully reward position. I noticed as well that the steering column caught the pedal mounting bracket, and would not lift up enough to position it on the brackets. now in the current position it now clears.hope this info helps, but if think it is each to is own, and you will adjust or use the default position to your requirements.

[Thurcroft flyer]

fabricated a box section transmission tunnel today. made it in three section which will all bolt together, and then clad in aluminium . this way I will be able to remove the tunnel, in case I have to do any future work on the car.1407

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[swifty]

I like the idea of the tunnel being in three sections for future security which is something i had not given much thought too, plus the ally plate will look more in keeping than the standard molded unit from triumph.

It certainly looks tight in the cockpit thurcroft flyer, keep up the good work and posts as i like to see what happening.:thumb:

[davecymru]

Tight... you've obviously never sat in a Countach then! That looks positively palatial to me :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

mike any update on delivery of front grill and head rest thanks

[rattler]

hi t/f looking good I also cut the pedals and cut ahole in flor pan for my heals will try to post pic also put quik releas steering wheel makes getting in/out so easy it may pay to cheque brake m/c clears body as I had to move mine inboard it is all a bit tight but will fit

[rattler]

http://http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/023_zps62bb4e55.jpg

[rattler]

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/023_zps62bb4e55.jpg

[rattler]

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/IMG_0727_zps42b8514f.jpg

[rattler]

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/IMG_0778_zpsf6beace2.jpg

[rattler]

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/IMG_0809_zps166bbeb0.jpg hope this helps rattler

[rattler]

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r707/rattler33/IMG_0780_zpsc222695d.jpg

[rattler]

hi t/f you can just see lowered bit for my heels under the s/w rattler

[Thurcroft flyer]

Thanks for comments and photos rattler
I never thought of making space to fit my heels in looking back now that May have been a great idea for me to try. My initial problem was that my seat backs are fairly straight up right.so to achieve a comfy driving position I would have had to raise or tilt the seat greatly. Which would have lost me the benefit of the low floor pan seating position. Probably a space for my heels will have been a good solution.
I am hopping the brake and clutch cylinder clear the body, as I have not sat the body on fully down, but they already sit lower than the frame rails, where body/top of front wing area is ??????? Here's hoping I don't have to move again:icon_redface:

[rattler]

hi t/f its not the hight of m/c mine ended up under the wing impossible to fill mite pay to check before. I am sure you have every thing under control. lots of luck rattler

[Thurcroft flyer]

I see what your concerns are now rattler, it will be awkward to fill, but I will be able to remove the cap with ease. If it be comes to much of a problem, I may fit a remote reservoir to compensate, thanks for bringing this to my attention it never crossed my mind with the body, I was more interested in getting it to a moon buggy stage. Just shows how usefull another pair of eyes are, you can certainly get tunnel vision, that's why these sites are so good, as people have already faced these problems on their own builds

[Thurcroft flyer]

had the chance to get on the car this week, in between the showers. managed to box in the rear frame work to create a storage box
then I fitted my rear bulkhead with seat belt mounts for 4 point harnesses.
then I fastened all the centre transmission tunnel in and fastened on the panels made from ally tread plate.
connected my hand brake linkage up, and fitted the lever, which now gives me a working handbrake.
next step is to make a door for the storage box.1492

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[garyh]

Very neat, will you put a gaiter around the gearbox part?

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi Garyh the answer to that is yes. I want to have some exposed ally panels, so hope to make a cover for the gear lever extension incorporating a gaiter, to match the hand brake lever gaiter. May be incorporate some drilled panel work like in the old racing cars.i will just have to remember that the gear linkage is attached to the gearbox, not the tunnel and needs to flex with the engine.

[garyh]

I like the thin aluminium strip you've used, instead of seeing a wide 'L' shape edge on top.

[rattler]

hi t/f looks good you will be driving it soon rattler

[davecymru]

Wotcha matey,
Did you extend your gear leaver extension yourself? And if so can i ask how you've done it, as I'm on the scrounge for ideas atm :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi ya, I extended the gear lever by cutting the original gear lever remote extension housing in half, along with the gear lever rod which runs underneath the cast ally housing. I then measured a piece of 25x25x3 mm box section to how long I needed to put the gear lever into a comfortable position . I then drilled the ally casting extension up through into the box section. I then counter sunk the holes to except counter sunk Allen headed bolts. I had to make the top holes in the box section bigger to accept a socket to allow me to secure the bolts.the only thing left then was to cut a piece(I think 15mm int dia, but not sure) tube to sleeve the original gear lever selector rod, which I drilled holes in, and then welded through to the bar. this was all done with the remote section removed from the gear box. it makes for a very study gear shift extension, although it does add height to the linkage, hope fully this will be covered with a nice console/gaiter . also to let you know my first attemp used just u channel, which seemed very strong and sturdy until fitted, but left the gear lever feeling like a pudding stick ( to much flexing/twisting ) hope this helps.

[davecymru]

Hummm... Cheers matey. I hadn't thought about sleeving the change rod if I do cut it..

[1iTim]

Hi thurcroft, if i may ask, (sorry if uv dealt wth this bfore) i just saw yr front springs, quite lower than standard. Did u cut or find a shorter stock spring or custom? Is the rear a 1/2 or full inch lowering block?
Thanks, tim.

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi front springs are lowered set bought from canley classics for £40.00, and I fitted a 1 inch lowering block to the rear with a spitfire rear spring, and extended diff caseing studs, again from canley classics. wheels sit better at rear, and it is supposed to lower the front by 1 inch, but it looks more than that. hope it will be o.k. once body etc. is all on. the front springs are listed on canleys web site as suitable for triumph vitesse, so I hope they sent me the right ones.

[1iTim]

hi front springs are lowered set bought from canley classics for £40.00, and I fitted a 1 inch lowering block to the rear with a spitfire rear spring, and extended diff caseing studs, again from canley classics. wheels sit better at rear, and it is supposed to lower the front by 1 inch, but it looks more than that. hope it will be o.k. once body etc. is all on. the front springs are listed on canleys web site as suitable for triumph vitesse, so I hope they sent me the right ones.

Thanks mate! Tossing up just building with standard and fixing as needed but much easier now if i know. Ive already taken a leaf out of the swing spit stack, but will probably need more. The fronts im concerned with stiff ness (too much) if i use vitesse lowered high rate springs designed for a significantly heavier car than the miglia 4pot.

[Thurcroft flyer]

finished locker door on rear bulk head. fitted front bulk heads, and started top of bulkhead around pedal area. tried body on for reference to where I need to box in under dash area, may have to modify frame box section cross brace behind dash to central fit gauges.1550

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all that f#^>ing about and I have now got to take the body back off! it's like you have to do every job twice ?????? talk about one step forwards two steps back, and just to top that off the nights are drawing in. it dosen,t get any easier should have stuck to stamp collecting.

[Paul L]

.. all that f#^>ing about and I have now got to take the body back off! it's like you have to do every job twice ?????? talk about one step forwards two steps back, and just to top that off the nights are drawing in. it dosen,t get any easier should have stuck to stamp collecting...
Well if it makes you feel any better, I am now facing the 3rd winter of my build. :icon_sad:

By the looks of it, you have already made a lot of good progress. :cool:

I really like the industrial look of your boot door set up.

I know I am really looking forward to the day when my bodyshell goes on for the last time. :pray:

Good luck, Paul. :)

[Marc F]

Red gel coat - tres chic :-)

And panelling is looking good - keep it up.

[davecymru]

Looking good! and i'm making lots of notes :)

[1iTim]

Ur r doing great!

[Thurcroft flyer]

modified frame behind dash to be able to fit gauges more centrally in dash. also extended top of front bulkhead, only bulkhead behind dash to fill in next to support scuttle top. decided to try and line up body ready to bond to frame. quite a tasking job. body in alsorts of shapes. best fit I could achieve was to try and get the best fit of the wheels into the arches, and fastened body to frame temporarily with tek screws and brackets sikaflex end on to body.dosen,t look to bad,I am not that confident of chopping and changing the fibre glass body, and although there are descrepencies to how the body lining up on either side, the old adage of you don't see both sides at the same time comes into play here. next step bonding body to frame.1605

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I am hoping when I have new tyres fitted, and the new front springs have had a bit of time to bed down, that the front may come down a bit further over the wheels.the body is as low on the frame as I can get it, and when I trial fitted the bonnet, I was horrified to find the radiator filler cap was stopping it from sitting in its recess on the body. out with the rad chopped the brackets down 1 1/2 inch and it now fits with plenty of clearance. wish I had known this before, it seems as if you have to do everything twice ???????? ah well back to the grind.

[redratbike]

pretty good wheel gaps there compared to some of the sammio#s and ribbles.
can you tell me why you didnt use the fibreglass bulkhead Mike makes and cover that in ally sheeting?

[davecymru]

Totally agree with redratbike ref gaps!

That rear end looks spot on height and alignment wise.
I'd say you just need to drop the front end a bit and bobs your uncle :)

And seeing as i've been through all of that faff previously with my Sammio and i'm going to go through it again with my Miglia in a few weeks, i'm allowed to make flippant remarks like that :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi redraft bike re fibreglass bulkhead, I was never supplied a fibreglass bulkhead and when I questioned mike he told me they no longer supply the bulkhead as it was to hard to fit, and advised I just clad it in ally. actually I may not have been able to use the bulkhead anyway as I moved my pedals further towards the front of the frame, so I would have had to chop the bulkhead to fit. I was informed he needed to change is web site info regarding the bulkhead being supplied with the kit, and he was sending me a free headrest for the inconvenience, which I was happy with.

[1iTim]

Ive not seen anyone use the fibreglass bulkhead that comes with the kit, does it not fit right? Anyone used it?

[Thurcroft flyer]

well I've managed to drag myself back in the garage this week after a few months off. managed to mont my remote servo, and pipe up the brakes. finally now have a good solid brake pedal, just need to fix the pipes to the bulk head with some brackets and clips2085

[Thurcroft flyer]

also fitted and piped up my old brass header tank. I had a extra outlet fitted to the rad when I had it flushed and pressure tested. hope it it keeps the engine cool, well time will tell.2086

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also had a great bonus when I came home from work, and my new log book with triumph miglia had been sent from the d.v.l.a. trouble is I asked them to change the taxation class from p.l.g. to historic vehicle. I even sent them a heritage certificate, like they had told me over the phone, and it's still not come back changed. has any one else had problems, changing taxation class, my mate as said they won't change it till you try taxing the vehicle, after the m.o.t. stage???.
can any one enlighten me on that process, as I thought regestering it as a re bodied triumph was going to be the problem.2088

[Thurcroft flyer]

I will tidy up all the bulkhead area, and cables, hoses etc when I am nearing completion of the car, at this moment in time I have a licence to change things as the build progresses.2090

[micky1mo]

also had a great bonus when I came home from work, and my new log book with triumph miglia had been sent from the d.v.l.a. trouble is I asked them to change the taxation class from p.l.g. to historic vehicle. I even sent them a heritage certificate, like they had told me over the phone, and it's still not come back changed. has any one else had problems, changing taxation class, my mate as said they won't change it till you try taxing the vehicle, after the m.o.t. stage???.
can any one enlighten me on that process, as I thought regestering it as a re bodied triumph was going to be the problem.2088

Hi Your mate is right.
If you check your V5C section 7 at the bottom it confirms this.
Also there is conformation on section 10 the V5C/2.
The important stuff is always in the small print. :mod:

When you come to taxing the vehicle go to the post office with your V5C tell them it's "historic" and they should confirm it, issue you with a receipt with "nil" payment on it, take your V5C and send it off to DVLA for the change.

Well that's how it should work any way :flypig:

[Thurcroft flyer]

thanks for that info mickey, it's just that I gave d.v.l.a. a ring before I sent all the paper work off, and over the phone it was a different story.thats why they asked me to produce a heritage certificate, as the date of manufacture was not on the log book records, only the date first registered. although my argument was if it was regestered in 1964 it must have been built on or before that date, making it tax except

[froggyman]

What a transition from what you started with. Looks great.
Is the hose you have fitted on the servo the correct type of vacuum hose? If not when the engine bay gets warm the hose may close up and then no servo.

[Paul L]

Thurcroft Flyer - Congratulations on getting the V5C sorted out. :cool:

Your whole engine bay area is going to look great when you are finished.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

Looks superb, mate!

[Thurcroft flyer]

the hose is reinforced air hose tested to 10 bars so I hope it will cope, if not I will have to change it, but thanks for bringing that to my attention.

[Mister Towed]

the hose is reinforced air hose tested to 10 bars so I hope it will cope, if not I will have to change it, but thanks for bringing that to my attention.

10 bar internal pressure, but what about external pressure under vacuum?

[8 Valve Ed]

Has been know to suck it flat, in worse case de-laminate the two skins, that's why there is vacuum pipe made for this job. :-(

[Thurcroft flyer]

best get myself some vacuum pipe then. it looks far superior to the original pipe, think I may have to visit my mate who works at an hydraulic company he may be able to help, thanks for the advice lads

[8 Valve Ed]

Better safe than sorry, if it were a screen wash pipe, no worries but brakes are quite important.

[Thurcroft flyer]

not half, just found some proper vacuum hose on eBay 9 quid a Mtr, not worth the risk. although the brakes would still work I would just loose the servo assistance.

[Thurcroft flyer]

fitted my cherry bomb exhaust rear boxes this weekend. not a bad job to fit, a couple of u clamps to fabricate, and some mounting brackets. I am happy with the look of the system from the rear of the car, but when I started the car oh my god what a noise. I love the sound, but I don't think the neighbours or other motorists will appreciate it. I have still to set up the carbs and final running of the engine yet, but I don't want to attract the attentions of the boys in blue when on the road. it may actually sound better travelling down the road than just revving it up outside the garage as the noise was just coming back off the wall of our three storey house. I must admit it sounds more race car than 1600 triumph vitesse . I will live with it for now, but may have to fit a quieter system if It gets on my nerves while using the car.2095

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[Mister Towed]

Nice job, very neat installation.

Don't worry, you won't have to change them, you'll find the crackle they give on the overrun quite addictive I can assure you.

[1iTim]

they are sweet! if you like the look but not the volume, consider adding another cheap muffler under the middle before your pipe forks. you wont spoil the look then.
looking awesome by the way, well done!

[Thurcroft flyer]

been fibreglassing the body sides to the floor panels this week. a bit messy but finally got there. the good thing is you can cover them with ally panels. also did the initial fitting of the doors. what a job and half that was. the doors are sent oversized and need trimming to fit, but the amount I had to take off the drivers door was unreal. I actually had the door outer part from the inner. this door looked faulty when I received it. it looked as if the outer skin had slipped forward while bonding together compared with the passenger side door. I know the door openings will change when you bond the body to the frame, but i never expected having to remove this amount of material to make fit. now they are on it should not take too long to fill and make good with some filler etc. and some surrounding body work will have to be adjusted to make a good fit. I just hope I dont cock em up with sticking gobbo all over.2132

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2134also fastened the rear bulkhead to the body, and extended the rear floor pans on each side with some ally plate.

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had a good couple of week on the car. was fed up of removing and replacing bonnet on and off car so decided to fit my bonnet locks, and pins.trimmed edge of bonnet sides thoroughly fit in body aperture. I am going to hinge the bonnet at the front, but I am currently having problems with the bonnet leading edge catching as it is raised. I am experimenting with fitting springs on the hinge mounting bolts to initially raise bonnet just prior to opening. I only want someway of lifting the bonnet to check levels etc, without lifting the bonnet off every time.2230

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also cut out and fitted head lights and bowls, which was quite a simple straight forward job2233

[Thurcroft flyer]

after a few days away, I returned to the car, and decided to tackle the wireing loom. I unwrapped all the old insulation tape checked the wires I would be keeping. ran all the systems to the engine bay front/rear lights, and dash area.
I have fitted new fuse boxes for permanent feed systems, and ignition feed systems, then taped everything back up. 2234

[Thurcroft flyer]

while I had my electrical head on I made my self a dashboard up from ally plate, and covered it with 0.7mm polished ally. got this fitted in, just requires wires connecting, and oil gauge fitting, which I left fitted to the engine from when I ran it up. hoping to get everything connected this week to have a turn key car, then back to the body work.2235

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[Paul L]

Thurcroft Flyer - I could have sworn I replied to your thread after you got your doors fitted, but can't see my post?

Either way, you have made some great progress and there are lots of very nice touches in your build. :cool:

The whole dash looks amazing and the locking pins on your bonnet look a lot neater than the mess I made on my boot. :rolleyes:

Good luck, Paul. :)

[garyh]

Shiny, shiny... how did you do the raised bead on the edge of dash? Is it some sort of trim.

[redratbike]

Shiny, shiny... how did you do the raised bead on the edge of dash? Is it some sort of trim.i'd say yes you can just see a join at 6 o'clock.

[redratbike]

will the rev counter be obstructed by the steering wheel? i'd have it in the top one personally but i can see why you have done it like that as visually it balances with the speedo... great looking dash with the mini toggle switches...

[Thurcroft flyer]

the trim around the dash is only Chrome edging trim bought off eBay for a few quid, but it looks affective. I may change the dash later for engine turned ally, but I am using the stuff I have at hand now in the garage, but at least now I have my dash board blank to work from. the trouble with polished ally is keeping it polished.stainless may have been a better option, but at the moment I am trying to build this car and keep the costs down, and get it on the road.the beauty with these kits is modifications can happen later, as a on going project.

[Thurcroft flyer]

hi redratbike your right the Rev counter will be obscured by the wheel, but only just. I kept the speedo and rev counter side by side as they are matching jaeger items. I can also hear what the engine revs are doing, and would rather have a good view of the ancillary gauges, in case I have any running problems, they are just easier to glance at and see whilst driving.

[redratbike]

hi redratbike your right the Rev counter will be obscured by the wheel, but only just. I kept the speedo and rev counter side by side as they are matching jaeger items. I can also hear what the engine revs are doing, and would rather have a good view of the ancillary gauges, in case I have any running problems, they are just easier to glance at and see whilst driving.it does look good................................the joys of an old engine/open top motoring actually hearing the engine...

[davecymru]

Nice dash! And having it as one removable unit makes on-going maintenance a whole lot easier. I also like the recessed bonnet pins. I've not seen recessed ones on a Sammio/Miglia before?

Keep up the good work matey :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

cut out two pieces of bulk bulk head from 3mm ally plate. riveted and bonded into place, and then painted with black smooth hamerite. quite a fiddly and time consuming job as all the wires and cables that you run then have to be disconnected and fitted through there respective holes. good thing is once in place you know you can bolt other parts in for good like battery carries, fuse boxes etc.2401

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also finished dash board and gauges, ran up car and so far everything seems to be working correctly.2404
steering column also hopefully fastened in position for last time, just need to connect stalk switch wireing. I did a continuity test on all the wires so all should work correctly when connected.while the weather was fine I cut some diamond patterned stainless sheet to clad the inside of the car. then fitted it to the inside frame with tek screws. it will eventually be edged with ally strip all way round.

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[garyh]

You'll get a nice tan, when out driving.

[Thurcroft flyer]

not in this country I won't 😎 it's like a mid February day here at the moment, can't believe it's mid May. I am going to add some red leatherette diamond trim panels to tone it down, but I can always use it as an excuse to wear the cool shades while driving

[garyh]

It's been lovely down here... I like that hatch behind the seats.

[JJMCD]

It looks fantastic! Have you considered opening up the rears of the front wheel openings a little in the style of a 625 TRC? It may help balance the design a little. See: https://www.google.com/search?q=ferrari+625+trc&client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&prmd=ismvn&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&fir=DliYDnSeA2fgrM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253B7QxYi-veHOxDtM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253BPUtlXDPgCOViEM%253A%252CPtcspGl dfQEHLM%252C_%253Bs6Izju4DZEsLZM%253A%252CeQErwWhO kH6r8M%252C_%253BIQ72MbDmbfILKM%253A%252C0R8bkD8sv MxIbM%252C_%253BppQdVCG_8MtrtM%253A%252C3HArDLs4rS XgYM%252C_%253Bsj6VO7HpnZQKeM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253BcTHrof6Nfm8bcM%253A%252CVRxvMJj Gmak6QM%252C_%253BGIh8Lt6eWU3idM%253A%252CKiav6JpS AeofdM%252C_%253BJ-wjboUptNI0eM%253A%252CHImWf_oALfFcBM%252C_&sa=X&ved=0CD0Q421qFQoTCJWT2ZugjMkCFQgXPgodtmQEDA&biw=736&bih=414&usg=__S_hCRHaD-sRd_44PWRmw4cyWfmw%3D#imgrc=nodVOvOWpZ2ctM%3A&usg=__S_hCRHaD-sRd_44PWRmw4cyWfmw%3D

And https://www.google.com/search?q=ferrari+625+trc&client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&prmd=ismvn&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&fir=DliYDnSeA2fgrM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253B7QxYi-veHOxDtM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253BPUtlXDPgCOViEM%253A%252CPtcspGl dfQEHLM%252C_%253Bs6Izju4DZEsLZM%253A%252CeQErwWhO kH6r8M%252C_%253BIQ72MbDmbfILKM%253A%252C0R8bkD8sv MxIbM%252C_%253BppQdVCG_8MtrtM%253A%252C3HArDLs4rS XgYM%252C_%253Bsj6VO7HpnZQKeM%253A%252C8Q5jj-kjkk7o7M%252C_%253BcTHrof6Nfm8bcM%253A%252CVRxvMJj Gmak6QM%252C_%253BGIh8Lt6eWU3idM%253A%252CKiav6JpS AeofdM%252C_%253BJ-wjboUptNI0eM%253A%252CHImWf_oALfFcBM%252C_&sa=X&ved=0CD0Q421qFQoTCJWT2ZugjMkCFQgXPgodtmQEDA&biw=736&bih=414&usg=__S_hCRHaD-sRd_44PWRmw4cyWfmw%3D#imgrc=WMnh79HoLHlFtM%3A&usg=__S_hCRHaD-sRd_44PWRmw4cyWfmw%3D

[Thurcroft flyer]

no I have not thought of this idea, can you post a picture of what you think it may look like as I am always open to suggestions. not worked on the car for sometime, due to personal problems, but I will be starting the project back up in a couple of weeks, thanks for your input.

[Thurcroft flyer]

just seen the link you sent , yeah it would look good.

[Paul L]

Thurcroft Flyer - Sorry to hear life has got in the way of your build (it often does).

Good luck getting back into it, Paul. :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

All this corona virus episode, sun coming out, more time on my hands than I can manage. I think I’m going to clean the garage out and restart the build on my car. Let’s see if I can get it together. I will keep posting once it starts.

[Mister Towed]

Welcome Back Thurcroft F. I hope the problems that stopped you working on your car are a distant memory and it'll be nice to see another build progressing after a long rest. :)

[Paul L]

Thurcroft Flyer – Welcome back Ian. :cool:

I’m a firm believer that finally getting your car on the road will make up for how long it took.

Even though most of us would have preferred it to have taken a lot less time than it actually did. :rolleyes:

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

wow thats looking great Thurcroft!

[Thurcroft flyer]

Hi I am James aka (ian)/thurcroft flyer son i am trying to figure out how to work this site �� I am going to finish his build

[deni]

Hi James,

Welcome to the forum. I am very sorry to hear about your dad.

I thought I'll reply here to keep the continuation on the thread your dad started. It would be great if you can finish the car. I'm not the most knowledgable member here, but I'll help as much as I can.

Regarding the question about the petrol-I will personally try to avoid using E10 petrol in my car. As far as I understand, the ethanol can affect the rubber parts in the petrol path. I am not sure if your dad converted the engine to run on unleaded, so maybe someone more knowledgable can help with this.

Good luck with the build! There are no many Miglia builders posting on the forum, so I'm looking forward to follow your progress and hopefully we can help each other to finish our cars.

Cheers, Deni.

[Paul L]

James – Like Deni, I’ll post my replies to this thread going forward.

There is some more information about the new e10 petrol here:

https://classicsworld.co.uk/guides/e10-fuel-a-classic-owners-guide/

I tend to use Shell V-Power, which is e5, but all UK pumps should be marked e5/e10.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Unfortunately, this site now has a few technical problems when certain characters are typed into a post.

To get around this, and to save time, I type up my posts/replies in a separate Word document first.

I then copy the text from Word and paste it into my reply on here to post it in the normal way.

Then, if there is a problem where parts of post don’t appear, you can use the Edit button.

Simply paste the whole post again and then save it and, hopefully, the whole text will now appear.
(Although there doesn’t seem to be a way of getting the pound sign to work, but $ does. :rolleyes:)

Good luck, Paul. :)

[Thurcroft flyer]

Thank you for that im going run it on e5 as im show he did im a mechanic buy trade and own my own garage/mot station so not to bad around a car and had some early 90s classic over the years.
I have mount the rear lights and indicators and number plate light today so its a start and lucky for me my dad has marked all the wires so shouldn't be to hard to wire up

[deni]

Hi James,

Glad to hear you've started to work on the car. I hope you will not run into any big issues with the wiring.

Cheers, Deni.