1iTim's triumph miglia special

[1iTim]

Hello all, i have the 1961 bones on a car trailer parked in the front of my house, it will hit the garage tomorrow. Then the fun begins! I will have a raft of questions for mike that my engineer wants to know, then I'll know if i can do this as a 'modified' classic, or will need full 'icv' which may mean i just restore the herald... Pics of the donor tomorrow.

[1iTim]

This may be a question long ago answered, but could anyone let me know if the herald seats fit the miglia body? Although the fabric is ruined my seats seem in otherwise good condition.

[Viatron]

I cant see why not but in reality on Mick would be able to tell you as he's the only one who has built one.

[mikmiglia]

This may be a question long ago answered, but could anyone let me know if the herald seats fit the miglia body? Although the fabric is ruined my seats seem in otherwise good condition.


Hi Tim, sorry for the delay , the seats would fit . The floor pans i supply are as wide as the herald floor pans, and allows the lower position needed for the correct head position.

[1iTim]

excellent, thanks mike. that these fold is good for that storage compartment you do, although i'd love to see that in a "boot" like the dtype... i've also emailed you some sale related questions.

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-10-07095912_zpsebe9c44a.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2013-10-07095912_zpsebe9c44a.jpg.html)

this is my donor and:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-10-07095912_zpsebe9c44a.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2013-10-07095912_zpsebe9c44a.jpg.html)

the engineer is hopeful of a "modified classic" pending some info from mike.

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-10-16091404_zps14bd4c9e.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2013-10-16091404_zps14bd4c9e.jpg.html)

replacement on its way for 2.25 pounds (rimmer)

new fuel pump on its way too.

T

[Viatron]

Good job you caught it early that could have made a mess quickly!

[1iTim]

Hi all,

My Cyl head has "stanpart 303014" cast into it. It is on my spitfire engine block number FE12951. I can't find out much about the head number except in mentions in old forums linked to 1147 engines.

Any ideas?

the exhaust manifold currently looks like a Mk3, in that it is cast and a short all into 1 system, and i'm wondering if the head is a 6 or 8 port (i will know when i pull the manifolds off but am impatient!) and if i do try to get a tubular exhaust what head i have to fit it to.

I've got twin SU's that look pretty small - HS2's i think.

[oxford1360]

Morning,
An FE prefix indicates a lower compression (8.5:1) 1296cc Mk III Spitfire.

See -
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/enginenumbers.html

The cam and bottom end are great. If you up the compression a bit you will have a very nice engine. It would have been fitted with HS2s originally so they are a safe bet. It should be the 8 port head. You can tell by looking at the inlet manifold without removing it.

You can get tubular exhausts for the head no problem.

[1iTim]

Thanks oxford. Without info on the head i'm unsure whether it may well be a high compression option. I can't tell if its the head that came with the engine. Never mind, by all research so far its a darn sight better than the 948 the car was made with! It still has the 1 1/4 inch exhaust of the herald mated up to the 1 3/4 downpipe of the spit. Theres some easy power...

I've got the body off now too, (except the scuttle) it really looks like progress.

[Paul L]

Good luck with your build Tim.

The more photos you can post the better!

Cheers, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

heres a pic of the car witht he body off (except the scuttle - sorting the engine out before removing it for cleaning etc)
you can see the great condition its in - no salt grit on our roads!
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/1384218_10200635590114145_505840297_n.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/1384218_10200635590114145_505840297_n.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

the body has not fared so well:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/1376502_10200635587474079_213346986_n.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/1376502_10200635587474079_213346986_n.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

i am going to save that hankdbrake to use - too many excellent kits impaired by 21st century handbrakes from taxis.

[Mister Towed]

That chassis does look to be rust free. Almost exactly the same as mine wasn't...

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z371/dmonebillion/001.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dmonebillion/media/001.jpg.html)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z371/dmonebillion/002.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dmonebillion/media/002.jpg.html)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z371/dmonebillion/003.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dmonebillion/media/003.jpg.html)

:(

[1iTim]

well it all turned out rather well in the end for you!

[1iTim]

i have found a herald 1.25inch exhaust clamped up to my spitfire 1.75 manifold... simple fix, a $40 spitfire exhaust.

which is in canada.

and another 50 of them, in england.

shipping to australia? priceless...

custom job perhaps...

hey has anyone found if triumph had a white jaeger tacho to match the white jaeger speedos? all the spitties iv seen have black ones.

[1iTim]

Dash is off. everything is going well so far. (scares me)

[tlrtone]

Dash is off. everything is going well so far. (scares me)

The calm before the storm eh? :eyebrows:

It'll all be fine, just work through each bit!

Looks a very good start though :eusa_dance:

[Paul L]

Tim - Although my kit is based on a Spitfire, I did read one tip on here for cutting the Herald bulkhead.

It has been suggested that you cut the bulkhead to match the contours of the bodyshell.
( Rather than the early build approaches of a straight horizontal cut. )

I also see that you are planning to re-use the Herald handbrake.

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/1376502_10200635587474079_213346986_n.jpg

My suggestion would be to cut out and re-use the whole Herald transmission tunnel as well.

This was an early mock up from my own build with the Spitfire panel in place.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p306/TT_Paul_L/DSCF7571.jpg

Just a thought.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

Thanks, i was thinking of the whole tunnel, but it is a bit wide. As i plan on using the miglia not the ribble, the bulkhead is replaced, so the orig tunnel would have to be chopped somewhere. I'll definitely think about it.
thanks heaps,
Tim

[1iTim]

haven't posted for a while - can't get photo bucket at work and home my wife usually has the computer. (i know easy solution.) however, heres the work so far. pity its on the way down not on the way back together, but here it is. gave it a pressure clean. next step is to get the engine n gearbox out, and keep dismantling. the chassis will be sandblasted and powder coated. (thats the plan, wallet permitting)http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-11-17164050_zpsc61afacc.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2013-11-17164050_zpsc61afacc.jpg.html)

[garyh]

Morning Tim, keep taking the photos if only to help you re-assemble. What ideas do you have for build? Are you aiming for D24 look-a-like style or something different?

[froggyman]

Slow progress is better than none!
Chassis looks very clean and an excellent base for your Miglia.

[1iTim]

Thanks guys. Its night here, don't mention the cricket. Yes I'm very pleased with the quality of the bones. I will be going for an old school look, kind of d24 but also without constraint. It'll be reg as a 1961 year based on the chassis, so carries the dna, but will also be a miglia. I'll try using the herald seats too, and initially those wheels u see. I'll use ally sheet for the cocpit, perhaps a "quilted" roll finish but that may constrict bends. We'll see.

[Charman.tech]

Thanks guys. Its night here, don't mention the cricket. Yes I'm very pleased with the quality of the bones. I will be going for an old school look, kind of d24 but also without constraint. It'll be reg as a 1961 year based on the chassis, so carries the dna, but will also be a miglia. I'll try using the herald seats too, and initially those wheels u see. I'll use ally sheet for the cocpit, perhaps a "quilted" roll finish but that may constrict bends. We'll see.

Now us cricket fans are up half the night we will be able to talk to you in real time!

I can't believe that herald has such a clean chassis

[1iTim]

Thanks charman (ha how's that for a recovery in the ashes last night!) I think that would be because in Australia we don't grit the roads with salt. Just to make you all cry, there is only vague traces of surface rust on the chassis, otherwise looks brand new. That said, I've tried to sell the other body bits but the market for them is so low I've so far only sold the back bit, and that was to a guy who was going to use it for decoration!

Looks like I have a spit mk3 block and a mk2 6port head. With a cast exhaust manifold that looks like a mk3... Any benefit in hunting down a tubular header set? As far as tuning goes il be looking for drivability.

[1iTim]

Heres every thing off the chassis, now to wash it up ready for blast and powdercoat.
<a href=http://s1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/?action=view&current=2013-12-07134317_zps01eff4f0.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-12-07134317_zps01eff4f0.jpg border=0 alt=Mobile upload></a>

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-12-07134317_zps01eff4f0.jpg

[Viatron]

look nice and clean, have you had to do much too it?
Mac

[mikmiglia]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2013-12-07134317_zps01eff4f0.jpg


Chassis is in great condition. Your climate has looked after this

[Mister Towed]

Wow, that really does look like a new chassis. I'm very jealous.

[1iTim]

I have to weld back in one of those spacer tubes for the body bolt but adide from that its fine. You wait till u see it after blast and mazda true red a4a powdercoat. Mike what did u do to the front ride height of #1?
One of my frt shocks is blown so considering what to do, replace standard shock with shorter softer spring or big bucks for adjustable shocks with orig springs?

[Mister Towed]

I have to weld back in one of those spacer tubes for the body bolt but adide from that its fine. You wait till u see it after blast and mazda true red a4a powdercoat. Mike what did u do to the front ride height of #1?
One of my frt shocks is blown so considering what to do, replace standard shock with shorter softer spring or big bucks for adjustable shocks with orig springs?

Standard shocks with Spitfire 150lb or 170lb springs cut down to your taste will work just fine. No need to spend megabucks on expensive short/adjustable shocks, mine never bottomed out even when I had the car far too low.

[1iTim]

Hi mr t thanks for that, but here in aus i can't cut the springs, not allowed. So I'll have to get shorter springs made. That might b cheaper than 170 gbp for adjustable shockers. I cant beleive the low price of the standqrd shocks!

[1iTim]

i have a problem. (ok not just one but lets start with that!)
My left rear upright wont come off. The lower bolt that joins the hub or rear trunion is stuck inside somehow to the bush or something.

I've tried wd40, I've tried a hammer, I've tried both together, I've then tried blowtorch until its all smoking then the hammer.

All I have succeeded in doing is deforming the bottom of the bolt with all this banging. After hitting the bolt (lots) the bolt head is a mm proud, but the top of the upright spreads to about 90mm from its restful 80. I dont want to damage the upright.

Any advice or hints on removing this bolt?

(as an aside, which front stub axle assembly goes on which side? the normal trunion thread on the right hand side, and the left hand trunion thread on the left? or the other way? I had not labelled them before i realised they are "handed")

[andrewhush]

Hi Tim

There is a small space either side, between the trunnion and the vertical link containing the flanges of the plastic bush and the thin tinplate dustshields. Hacksaw through the bolt either side of the trunnion through these. This allows you to separate the trunnion from the link and gives access to the rest of the bush inside the trunnion. Then you can remove the bush by a combination of melting, drilling and/or pressing. New bolts and bushes will obviously be required for reassembly!

The new bush kit looks like this

http://www.classicpartstrader.com/triumph-herald-spitfire-gt6-rear-trunnion-repair-kit-758-p.asp

regards

Andrew

[andrewhush]

i have a problem. (ok not just one but lets start with that!)
My left rear upright wont come off. The lower bolt that joins the hub or rear trunion is stuck inside somehow to the bush or something.

I've tried wd40, I've tried a hammer, I've tried both together, I've then tried blowtorch until its all smoking then the hammer.

All I have succeeded in doing is deforming the bottom of the bolt with all this banging. After hitting the bolt (lots) the bolt head is a mm proud, but the top of the upright spreads to about 90mm from its restful 80. I dont want to damage the upright.

Any advice or hints on removing this bolt?

(as an aside, which front stub axle assembly goes on which side? the normal trunion thread on the right hand side, and the left hand trunion thread on the left? or the other way? I had not labelled them before i realised they are "handed")
The right hand threaded one goes on the right hand side and vice versa.

[1iTim]

Thanks andrew that worked a treat. Thats just about the only bush that I've not ordered yet! I'll get onto that too.

[1iTim]

happy days, the parts (bushes, bolts + shocks) i ordered from rimmer on monday arrived on my desk this morning (sydney time). Good work Bro's.

will post some picks when my chassis is blasted and powdercoated. anyone recommend any further treatment over that?

[Mister Towed]

happy days, the parts (bushes, bolts + shocks) i ordered from rimmer on monday arrived on my desk this morning (sydney time). Good work Bro's.

will post some picks when my chassis is blasted and powdercoated. anyone recommend any further treatment over that?

To use the vernacular I expect 'She'll be right' in the Aussie climate. With hindsight I wish I'd had my chassis and bulkhead galvanised over here though.

[Viatron]

If galvanising is as cheap over there as it was for me over there then i would definitely consider it, just be aware of the pitfalls, galv filled threads etc

[1iTim]

If galvanising is as cheap over there as it was for me over there then i would definitely consider it, just be aware of the pitfalls, galv filled threads etc

I'll look into the gal. The blast and powdercoat includes a zinc prime, and given the outstanding state of preservation it is already in over the last 50 years, it will last another 50 no worries, I reckon. i am thinking of a clear coat, or something to give added protection from stone strikes etc under there.

thanks for all the ongoing support guys.

[Viatron]

You could also consider the bed liner stuff i used for the interior, i reckon it would be excellent for chassis protection, see my build thread here
Macs Build Thread (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3501)

Mac

[Viatron]

The bed liner bit starts on page 15
Mac

[Mister Towed]

thanks for all the ongoing support guys.

No worries. Must drop in and take a look at your progress if I happen to be passing... :flock:

[1iTim]

No worries. Must drop in and take a look at your progress if I happen to be passing... :flock:

you planning a trip down under, mr t? :icon_cool:

[Mister Towed]

you planning a trip down under, mr t? :icon_cool:

Erm, no, sorry Tim it was meant to be a sort of joke.

Wife's sister and her family emigrated to Aus last September but they haven't decided where to settle yet, so no trip planned at the mo.

I did have a weekend break in Melbourne a few years back though, after popping to New Zealand to look round for a couple of hours...

[1iTim]

Ok, can anyone tell me how I can get the rear diff mount bushes into the hole or have I somehow got the wrong size metal ringed bushes? ( I got the old ones out with a hacksaw and strength)

[GazDavies]

Ok, can anyone tell me how I can get the rear diff mount bushes into the hole or have I somehow got the wrong size metal ringed bushes? ( I got the old ones out with a hacksaw and strength)

Like I always say, if you can't get it in the hole you either don't have enough lubrication or you are not using enough force!

[Viatron]

Yep brute force wins the day! Try giving the hole in the diff case a good clean using a small flap wheel, then drag them in using some thread bar, washers and a couple of nuts. And then thank The Lord they don't need doing too often!

[oxford1360]

The diff bushes was the task that nearly beat me. I tried all of the above and had to resort to a press.

[1iTim]

all the above is failing me at present. When i get a good tension on the long threaded rod the bush jerks off centre rather than going in evenly. hammer does not help any harder and i'll damage the bush (more). As a last resort I will try smoothing and extending the small taper on the diff housing. Oxford what kind of press? Did you take it to a workshop?

[swifty]

Take a look at the tools on the web type in bush press kit garage tools and you will see whats required, a make shift tool is a socket out of a socket set, length of stud similar in diameter to the hole through the bush, a couple of nuts and thick washers, small amount of lube. Make sure the bore is clean.
If you know some body with a lathe they can make a top hat type washer which helps to keep things square and aligned.

[Viatron]

Wot he said!^^^^^

Biggest problem I recall having was snapping cheap thread rod, got some good quality steel bar and threaded it myself, just make sure your all lubed up, couple of turns at a time and I found that just tapping around the perimeter of the bush with a small hammer helped get it started.
HTH

Mac

[1iTim]

Thanks guys. I will persevere.

[1iTim]

Well, with an improvised lathe (a drill in a vice) i put a 1mm shallow taper on the end of each bush to help them in, and success! At least partially. The threaded rod i bought for this purpose keeps stripping, and i have each bush part way in. I will be picking up a high tensile bolt this week and some matching big washers (one i initially used stacked 4 high ended up like cones) to get them the rest of the way in.

Thanks guys for your suggestions. When i have the chassis painted I will post up some picks of it and the assembly. Then I have to get in touch with mike about the kit!

Tim

[1iTim]

here is the result of the first attempts, note stripped thread rod, and partially in place mounts..
something funny has happened to photobucket on my phone. had to get this via friendface.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-02-03%2021.09.24_zpssmstku2v.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-02-03%2021.09.24_zpssmstku2v.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

diff mounts almost in. just about 6mm to go and snapped 2 high tensile bolts. it seems not only the bolts the issue but the washers as well. will need some more wd600071's as ruined 4.

[1iTim]

left the diff mounts to let my arm recover, steering rack work today. packed with moly grease and new boots and tie rod ends, now ready to go on. the only chassis reno needed done now too, a chassis spacer that came off in deconstruction now re welded. just needs a clean and the chassis is ready for blast and paint.

[1iTim]

chassis cleaned and ready. heres the diff mounts in finally! ( thanks to my mechanic and a press. ) look, i had them *almost* all the way in by myself...
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-03-08%2011.30.07_zps5z6jzpne.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-03-08%2011.30.07_zps5z6jzpne.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

and the rear axles: i was going to leave them alone but had a bit of end float in one side, so thought i'd better take them apart and change the bearings and shim that end float.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-03-08%2011.32.19_zpskblmrk5h.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-03-08%2011.32.19_zpskblmrk5h.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

you can see the last guy used moly grease for the bearings: it had separated and all the oil gone leaving just the waxy moly. no flow, no good. propper bearing grease going in this time.

[1iTim]

Behold! Untold beauty:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/chassis%20red%20finished_zpsqq3vm8ca.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/chassis%20red%20finished_zpsqq3vm8ca.jpg.html)

[garyh]

Lovely, it will be nice to start putting parts back on. Also nice, is the fact it will probably stay in that condition forever...

[Mister Towed]

Ooh, that looks nice. Good choice of colour - would nicely complement a silver body...

[oxford1360]

I love to see a chassis in this state - all that potential.

Looking good.

[1iTim]

Th@nks gents, body will end up red too! Most parts are ready, but still working on those rear axles. One side had some end float but measuring the housings there is not appreciable wear. And how far do i squeeze the bearings/rear trunnions back on !?!

[1iTim]

impact paint on vulnerable areas, and wax spray on the inside (while upside down- i'll use another can when the chassis is the right side up). then there all the things like brake lines etc to clean up and put on...

[Paul L]

Sounds like you are making progress and your chassis looks great. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)

[davecymru]

The one thing i always wish i'd done on the Sammio was take it _all_ apart and do this to the Chassis, so i'm always full of praise for those of you who have. That looks well nice that man!

[Scottie22]

Chassis looks really good, will you have red seats too?

I know all about red seats!:-)

[christinedmc]

very very nice!

michiel

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-03-29%2017.46.23_zpslbwhhv8t.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-03-29%2017.46.23_zpslbwhhv8t.jpg.html)

thanks everyone, i really appreciate the encouragement!
Dave doing all this now should mean i don't need to spend an hour in the garage prior to every run. Seats were red, but i plan to reupholster the orig seats in cream, with the body red.

this pic is todays progress, brake lines "cold gal" 'ed and in place, diff in too.

my swing spring is still on Mr R and Mr R's back order, coming with a disc conversion kit and various things like the drilled and tapped plate to attach the front suspension tower so can't finish that yet (oh and i've got a pair of those super cool finned drums, mmmm), but plenty of stuff to do. the rear bearings won't install themselves...

[Viatron]

I have the Alifin drums on my Ribble, they are very nice but took an age to turn up as I think they are made in batches and only when they have enough orders to make a batch. Looking good BTW
Mac

[1iTim]

(Viatron "...but took an age to turn up"); well its taken a month but disc conversion, swing spring conversion and alfins are on their way!

I'd done with the renovation (reconditioning!) of the rear axles, bearings in, I used loctite 641 on the outer race to housing interface as i had movement there. This should hold it. More pics when there's more to show!

Stay classy, madabites.

Tim

[AndyP85]

That is one lovely chassis you have there bud!

Behold! Untold beauty:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/chassis%20red%20finished_zpsqq3vm8ca.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/chassis%20red%20finished_zpsqq3vm8ca.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

That is one lovely chassis you have there bud!

thanks andy, yeah its made it too hard to bolt on anything ugly so its all getting the treatment!

Why do people say "don't try this at home" on fun stuff like cooking with C4 but never say it about things that would be useful, like, you can replace the rear wheel bearings on a small chassis triumph, but dont try this at home...

rears practically done now, brake back plates on, just need to buy the rest of the freelander wheelstuds and put them in then i can finish the job.

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-04-09%2020.01.32_zpszwohya2q.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-04-09%2020.01.32_zpszwohya2q.jpg.html)
T

[1iTim]

Its been a while (hols in NZ, easter etc etc) but i have the swing spring and disc kit and am industriously putting things together. can't upload pics at work though :(

sadly I broke a rear trunnion bush jamming it on with no lube, lesson learned for the fronts, and antiseize liberally on the bolts that go in there this time. when the replacement turns up i will get the rear axles back on the car, and my freelander studs will be here soon (thanks auskellian) and that will mean the rears can be completed!

the secondhand front hubs from rimmer required a bit of cleaning up thats for sure, but they are ready for their bearings now. I used bearing housing loctite 641 (or 642 i cant remember) which worked a treat on the rears- probly use on the fronts too.

I'm not going to worry about ride height until i get the frame on and weigh the body and sandbag simulate it, then sort out the size of rear lowering block i need.

I am worried about the stiffness of that rear spring - anyone with knowledge/experience there?

[EL PRIMER]

sadly I broke a rear trunnion bush jamming it on with no lube

Chortle.

Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !!

[oxford1360]

Chortle.

Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !!

No, you're not. I bet they had fun at school.

[1iTim]

private school boys hey you two?

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-04-25%2017.41.30_zpscuxaiji1.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-04-25%2017.41.30_zpscuxaiji1.jpg.html)
front corner underway.

[MartinClan]

Its been a while (hols in NZ, easter etc etc) but i have the swing spring and disc kit and am industriously putting things together. can't upload pics at work though :(

sadly I broke a rear trunnion bush jamming it on with no lube, lesson learned for the fronts, and antiseize liberally on the bolts that go in there this time. when the replacement turns up i will get the rear axles back on the car, and my freelander studs will be here soon (thanks auskellian) and that will mean the rears can be completed!

the secondhand front hubs from rimmer required a bit of cleaning up thats for sure, but they are ready for their bearings now. I used bearing housing loctite 641 (or 642 i cant remember) which worked a treat on the rears- probly use on the fronts too.

I'm not going to worry about ride height until i get the frame on and weigh the body and sandbag simulate it, then sort out the size of rear lowering block i need.

I am worried about the stiffness of that rear spring - anyone with knowledge/experience there?

I built a Triumph based Marlin Roadster many years ago. Donor was a Spitfire. Using a brand new spring I had to remove one of the leaves to get the ride correct. If you leave all of the leaves in and just use a spacer block to adjust the height I guess that the ride will be a bit on the hard side...

Robin

[davecymru]

I, as well as a few others who did their builds at the same time as me went for a 1" lowering block AND Swing Spring conversion and we generally found that gave a very good ride height with a not too bumpy ride.

But i'll admit that it wasn't the cheapest of solutions!! :)

[Mister Towed]

I've kept the swing axles as they came out of the factory. I've been through a few different setups, but I've now settled (excuse the pun) on removal of the top three loose leaves from the stack, plus one leaf out of the next stack down (the one that's clamped to the main spring with 'U' clamps and bolts underneath), with no lowering blocks fitted at all. That's given me the right ride height for my tyres and a very compliant ride. The handling is also spot on with no discernible roll, while you can drive it much faster than when it had hard suspension because the tyres stay in contact with the road instead of jumping off all the time.

[1iTim]

thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.

Martin when you took a leaf out of the swing spring stack what did that do to the "hat" that the 4 studs bolt through - removing a leaf will reduce the thickness of the stack and does that leave too much "slack" in the stack? with the herald stack removal of leaves was easy, but not sure about the swing setup - if i did i am thinking of the middle leaf (third from top and bottom). do you have a photo?

Mr T i have already bought the swing spring kit so i'm going to use it!! when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it?

Dave did you need longer studs with a +1" block?

I also have no backplate for my front spit3 disks - problems? i dont really want to pay 45GBP for each back plate from my friends who bring primer and oxford such amusement.

thanks again guys.

[Mister Towed]

thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.

...when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it?

Hi Tim, I used the leaf that has the 'U' clamps riveted to it so that they act as guides to keep the rest of the stack lined up, but I didn't bother putting any bolts back in underneath, as I'd had to cut them off due to corrosion. Hasn't affected the handling so it'll probably stay that way.

As for getting the right length securing bolts for the spring stack you end up with, below is copied from my build thread dated 16th November 2011 (page 7) -

A while back I asked if anyone knew what thread type the rear spring to differential mounting bolts were. I got a couple of different answers Gary J said 3/8" UNF while a couple of others said 3/8" UNC, so I identified a 3/8 UNF bolt removed from my chassis and it didn't fit. By a prociss of elimination I ordered enough 3/8 UNC threaded rod to make new studs for my extra lowered lowering block.

When the UNC rod arrived it didn't fit. I tried a new UNF bolt and it fitted. Checked the supposedly UNF bolt from my chassis that I'd used as a gauge and found that someone had used a UNC where it should've been UNF.

I can confirm, therefore, that the studs/bolts for the rear diff are 3/8" UNF.

No harm done, though, I'll be using the spare UNC rod in my handbrake mechanism.

Good luck getting the stance/ride/handling how you want them. :icon_cool:

[davecymru]

If memory serves me right, i got longer bolts with the lowering block

[1iTim]

Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear, prior to tying down the spring
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-03%2009.03.54_zpsamdmaywv.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-03%2009.03.54_zpsamdmaywv.jpg.html)

[EL PRIMER]

Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear


snigger....

[swifty]

Nice work 1iTim, i hope to be at that stage pretty soon, the finned drum will look cool on the car.:cool:

[1iTim]

snigger....

hey E-P when you are old enough to drive you should get one of these cars...

[1iTim]

I have the wheelstuds, heres why they look like on the back:http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-13%2007.43.31_zpsqqy9cewq.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

And now with the rear on:
http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-14%2007.30.37_zpsxbcqpoe2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-14%2007.30.37_zpsxbcqpoe2.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-14%2007.30.37_zpsxbcqpoe2.jpg.html)

These were freelander studs, but caution they are 13mm at base not the imperial size, but they do go on.

[EL PRIMER]

hey E-P when you are old enough to drive you should get one of these cars...

I might just do that ........ :-)

[1iTim]

My lathe...
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-15%2020.07.34_zpspmsar2ld.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-15%2020.07.34_zpspmsar2ld.jpg.html)

[oxford1360]

We buy from the same tool shop. That is how I did my lugs. It worked just fine and was quicker than I'd anticipated.

[davecymru]

That reminds me... i need a new drive belt for my lathe!! :)

[1iTim]

time for a question; the disc brake conversion stub axles are about 1/4 inch longer than the old ones which means the greas caps dont engage with the hub due to not clearing the axle and nut. does anyone know of hub grease caps that have the same base as the herald/spit caps but a higher 'dome'?

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-21%2021.07.04_zpslcapzg7h.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-21%2021.07.04_zpslcapzg7h.jpg.html)
discs and callipers on!

[Marc F]

Shiny! Love how it is going.

[garyh]

What will you do next? Wheels or framework? Do you have any dusters?

[Thurcroft flyer]

looking good

[1iTim]

still trying to find a solution for the grease caps that don't fit because the rimmer stub axles are 1/4 in too long. Any ideas of caps with same diameter but deeper 'dome'?

For now the old steelies will go on (spits) and i will probly keep them (tidy up a bit, new rubber) to keep the cost down, and upgrade them to minilites with 185 /70 R13 dunlop D83J's later.

Also, I've done engineering calcs on the herald seat runners and 2mm 6xxx aluminium and that will be fine for floors. The orig floor was 1mm steel, so that will do too, and is a cheaper option as i'll be able to cut fold and weld them myself (I think) and if i stuff it or it looks crap revert to the original (expensive) plan of getting aluminium cnc cut and folded and welded professionally. Quote for that was $300 (AUD) per side about a year ago so could be more.

Bye for now.
T

[swifty]

Looking good 1iTim, its just a big boys Meccano kit.

Do you have any photos of the problem you have with the hub grease caps and the Rimmer stub axles to help me understand exactly what the issue is.

[1iTim]

here you go thanks swifty, kind of blurry and too close but hopefully you can get the idea.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-27%2007.38.37_zps9mxkyymx.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-27%2007.38.37_zps9mxkyymx.jpg.html)

heres a pic of the cap to the side:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-05-27%2007.39.41_zpslzxgmoy9.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-05-27%2007.39.41_zpslzxgmoy9.jpg.html)

it does not seat as the castle nut hits the dome of the cap.
any other TR stuff that will fit? or MG? or trailer ones...

[swifty]

1iTim have you tried posting the question on one of the triumph forums, i find www.club.triumph.org.uk/ is one of the good sites, the guys on there have the knowledge and are keen to help.

[1iTim]

thanks swifty, will try.

otherwise i get creative with a section of 1.625 inch pipe...

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-06-11%2013.15.43_zpswfooujfm.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-06-11%2013.15.43_zpswfooujfm.jpg.html)

[swifty]

Any plans for the engine, total strip down or trick bits?

[1iTim]

Well, open to suggestions, but not planning anything. I had it running pretty sweetly befpr tear down began. If i was inclined id do the head nice flow work and a pair or 1.25s, i have 1" su s at the mo, ddidnt know they went that small!. Exhaust headers would be nice but too pricey for now. I'll get a new pipe from manifold back in 1.5 inch, at present is 1.125 or somethin insanely small.
Its a 1296 from america with a 1147 head. I think the pump is flowing too much fuel, but not certain.

Thx, T

[1iTim]

ok ladies and gents a couple of questions about how to measure the carbs specification. My 6port head has intake holes 1.25 inches in diameter, but the carb throats are 1.05. the intake manifold, on the head side, has sleeves that go inside the manifold smoothly into a nice matching rebate in the manifold, and these sleeves slot neatly into the head, but there is no rebate or step that these sleeves butt up to, creating a sharp expansion inside the head from 1.05 to 1.25 inches.

Is this set up called a 1.25 because thats the size of the head outer port? or would a 1.25 (1 1/4) be a measurement across the outer (air box side) throat of the carby (meaning i have twin H1s)?

If i do get some 1.25's will they have a larger 1.45 inch sleeve that is meant to slot into the head? I will avoid anything that involves machining the head.

i'm guessing that someone bought a 1300 short block and just bolted everything from the original engine onto it... If thats the case what are the things i need to look out for?

your input is valued...

[1iTim]

rolling chassis:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-06-26%2020.39.28_zpshl0rp0jh.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-06-26%2020.39.28_zpshl0rp0jh.jpg.html)

engine cleaned and dried and ready to be masked up for painting too.

[1iTim]

Engine is in!
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08-17110438_zps4d42a707.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08-17110438_zps4d42a707.jpg.html)

[Mister Towed]

On the road by Friday then?

[Marc F]

Why, have you got Wednesday off :-)

But looking nice

[1iTim]

Thanks, off to register tomorrow. Ha seriouly need an exhaust then im done. Oh better order the body soon! And the ship to get it to the land of oz, ok a few more things on the imaginay list

[1iTim]

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2010.37.33_zpsbbpkzwr3.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2010.37.33_zpsbbpkzwr3.jpg.html)
Got an adapter for my oil filter. Should only be needed on 948's but my engine number indicates a 1300. Odd.

[1iTim]

Got a mk2 zorst from mr+mr rimmer. Had to smooth out some harsh lips
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2011.11.59_zpsj0ivobwi.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2011.11.59_zpsj0ivobwi.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

Half way,
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2012.21.31_zpsek5xtzs5.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2012.21.31_zpsek5xtzs5.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

Done and in.
The end of the bottom is touching the chassis so will need some thinking later.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2015.14.14_zpslczjxa1u.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-13%2015.14.14_zpslczjxa1u.jpg.html)

[swifty]

Nice work on the exhaust wrap, is that a fan i can see running in the back ground, you will have no problem in spray painting in the climate you have not like the UK.

[1iTim]

Thanks swifty. Fan was not running, only 22C on Saturday when those were taken. I now realise i have the handbrake cable underneath the propshaft and the header s need to come off again as the bottom just touches the chassis and will need a small bend to clear.

[1iTim]

Deposit paid today. 100% committed now!

[garyh]

How long does the shipping take, 2months?

[1iTim]

Hi gary, transit 38 days. Customs clearance....
I'll tell you when i get it!!

[garyh]

Hopefully not a Christmas present...

[1iTim]

Not a lot of visible progress. inlet is cleaned and in place. However the set screws dont line up with the mount points on the headers. why are they there anyway? They seem only on the mk2.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-09-21%2017.26.57_zpsvalysjub.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-09-21%2017.26.57_zpsvalysjub.jpg.html)

[garyh]

Its good to see you have as many bins as i do... the car is looking good, too.

[1iTim]

Been thinking of an engine upgrade, maybe a honda 1.6. Should have enough power

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Honda%20f1%202015_zpsk65any7n.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Honda%20f1%202015_zpsk65any7n.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

Maybe not as the hours i just spent on these hs2s with 600 wetand dry would go to waste.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-10-04%2013.49.15_zpsbjjbs4oc.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-10-04%2013.49.15_zpsbjjbs4oc.jpg.html)

One jet broke in transit but vendor sent me another 2. However they are visibly different jet hole size. Lucky one is a match (86 thou) to the ones i already have, so it will b one red one black but same on the inside.

[1iTim]

my first bit of original manufacture, fairly simple to start, a heat sheild:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-10-08%2020.15.29_zpsmmdm4d2f.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-10-08%2020.15.29_zpsmmdm4d2f.jpg.html)

[oxford1360]

Very nice. Fabrication is good for the soul.

[Scottie22]

Good stuff!

You'll soon be making all sorts of complicated rubbish just like me!

[1iTim]

Thanks. Im working on deeper grease caps made from a peice of al pipe conector. I hope to build most little ducts and fairings from hammered aluminium rather than grp. But we'll see how that goes!

[swifty]

Keep up the good work 1iTim the heat shield look's just the job, are you going to round the corners off.

It's a big learning curve is metal bashing and practice makes perfect as they say, there's also plenty of vids on you tube.

Looking forward to see what else you make.

[1iTim]

Swifty my wife said " is it finished?" When i proudly showed her. i have since cut out a bit to enable the dipstick (and folded edges over neatly) all other corners will wait for the body and bonet before trimming and edge finishing. It will be polished too. I'll post about the gease caps when they r done and work!
Tim

[PJ GRABOWSKI]

Any movement forward recently T?

[1iTim]

Hi pj nice to hear from u, no progress, waiting on the kit from mike
Best, tim

[PJ GRABOWSKI]

Hi gary, transit 38 days. Customs clearance....
I'll tell you when i get it!!

Hope there hasn't been a problem at customs Buddy . Should you consider looking into it's whereabouts ?

[1iTim]

no problem at customs, i'll keep you all posted as i can.

merry christmas all!

1iTim

[1iTim]

Merry christmas my internet friends, and may the new year see many happy registrations!

Tim

[Carib Classics]

Nice to read your build diary 1iTim.
I'm just behind you with my build. All my suspension parts have been cleaned and painted, the chassis been cleaned and painted. One coat to the top and three coats to the underside. I've had assistance to turn the chassis right side up now, but its been so cold and I really want to give the top side another paint layer before I start my build.
I have also been distracted with renovating a set of 15" wire wheel I purchased early December, which I want to try and renovate myself. If I fail then I can get them done professionally as there is a company a couple a miles away.

[1iTim]

Thanks carib. I got the chassis blasted and powdercoated, worked out not much more than the self paint option, and then it looked so good it has lifted my quality ever since.
Just waiting on the body now. If you are talking to mike say hi from me.
Tim

[1iTim]

My custom grease caps polished and in place. Made from a 42mm dia al pipe
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-12-30%2010.36.24_zpstpqq9j8n.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-12-30%2010.36.24_zpstpqq9j8n.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

And the carby piston dome things:

(before and after...)

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/2014-12-30%2012.43.42_zpskzuvazkb.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/2014-12-30%2012.43.42_zpskzuvazkb.jpg.html)

[swifty]

Cool solution for the grease caps and you can't beet a bit of serious polishing, the carb dash pots will look great, are you going to polish the carb bodies?

[1iTim]

No, just the tops. The bodies and floatchambers would need a lot of work to prepare for polishing, lots of cast flashings and stuff to file off. So no. Would look awesome, anyone done it?

Was going to put the carbs on today but first need to plumb some kind of crank ventilation to replace the open vent. Then i can get them on and linked.
t

[Barry Stard]

no problem at customs, i'll keep you all posted as i can.

merry christmas all!

1iTim

Has your kit bin delivered yet Tim?

[Carib Classics]

I have been trying to get hold of Mike without success. Has anyone heard from him?

[redratbike]

he has just readvertised the kit on ebay message him through that?

[1iTim]

Hiya all, God bless you this Easter.

I'm hoping to be able to post some exciting news this coming week.

Keep chipping away everyone

Tim

[ozi jim]

I goggled triumph miglia to see what it looks like.
Nice car Tim.

What is the story with the RTA, will they look at it as a Herald or a new build?.

Jim

[1iTim]

Hi Jim, I'm in NSW and the rms certifying engineer says that it may be able to be registered as a triumph of original year, maybe as triumph herald special or triumph milia special. At worst may need icv which means some engine compliance work...

This all looks cheap and quick but with overseas delivery of such a bulk item this may hit the wrong side of 20k (Aud)

Happy to chat,
Tim

[ozi jim]

Nothing is cheap.

I have done an ICV, I would be thinking a rebodied Herald would be the way to go.

Interesting to see how they perceive it.

Jim

[1iTim]

Nothing is cheap.

I have done an ICV, I would be thinking a rebodied Herald would be the way to go.

Interesting to see how they perceive it.

Jim

What did u do? Iv only really seen Cobras and sevens. Although there was a great old school fiorano or something Ferrari open wheelesque in qld a while ago.
Tim

[ozi jim]

I built a GT40.
I purchased a chassis and made everything else.
It took 10years total, it has been registered for 4years, the build continued after the rego was completed, only because you never finish.

RTA has a habit of playing games because I truly believe that they dont know how to work outside the square.

If you go through as a new build it will need to pass an IM240 emissions test,you will struggle with the Herald eng due to the technology required to pass it.
Thats why if it where a rebodied Herald then all the mechanicals have to comply with the age of the car manufacture 1959, This would be a walk in the park.
If the Herald was already registed at some point and has a VIN I think it makes it easier again, Your engineer would advise your options.
All I know is you will not pass the IM240 with that engine and thats why you need to register as 59 herald.

If the Herald has intrusion bars you would need to fit bars into your glass body ,and supply paper work to prove their strength I would think.
If it never had bars put them in and belt mounts because the RTA love it when you make an effort.
You may fall into the trap (ask your engineer) the RTA may ask you to comply to current rules on the body work, not sure how it works for a rebody.

Ask your engineer if an ICV has to comply to 1959 or 2015 or both 59 on the car 15 on the bodywork.

I will keep watching.

Jim

[Mister Towed]

Wow, and we think we've got problems with DVLA. And I love the use of the word 'rego'.

Great to see that there are proper car enthusiasts on the other side of the planet, keep up the good work guys!

[1iTim]

Thanks mr T. Jim if it's icv its 2015 all the way but he was confident with closed breathing (I've alre done that) a cat and something else I can't remember he'd pass it. The intrusion and general "crash worthiness " are the unquantifiable bits. It never had a vin but was registered in vic with its original "commission plate" which is Y9048, not the 17digit monster of today.

Lots of unknowns but the engineer may help the rego process.

We'll see!
T

[1iTim]

Excited
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/triumph%20milia%20special/05B94BBD-0E73-494D-BF0E-F429FE174A87_zps1o1wzs3z.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/triumph%20milia%20special/05B94BBD-0E73-494D-BF0E-F429FE174A87_zps1o1wzs3z.jpg.html)

[davecymru]

WOW!!!!!! You must be really excited :)

[garyh]

That's a nice box...:icon_smile:

[Paul L]

Well that box has certainly travelled a very long way to reach you. :eek:

Good luck putting it all together.

Cheers, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

Ha thanks guys it's not here yet!!

[1iTim]

This should take care of the fuel oversupply. A fuel pressure regulator:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/7674DDD4-4750-46B9-A91E-EEFFB1680D9A_zpsx2zchdm2.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/7674DDD4-4750-46B9-A91E-EEFFB1680D9A_zpsx2zchdm2.jpg.html)

[davecymru]

ohhh shiny! :)

[1iTim]

Proper oil for the SUs now. And a fuel pump spacer, the last pieces in the engine puzzle...

[Marc F]

Proper oil - what is that? I thought "3 in 1" so what have you used? But sounds like the final pieces, so are you near to the end now?

[1iTim]

Hi Marc I should, I suppose, have been more specific... Last pieces of the engine puzzle meaning after this I can tune it properly. I'm still a way off receiving the body and finishing the actual car!

Proper oil for the SUs is straight 20. I chucked the same motor oil in them (30w50) as I'd used in the engine and it was not happy!
I'll let you know how it all goes when I put it in on the weekend. I'll post a vid on friendface as I dunno how to do that here.
Catch you all later

[EL PRIMER]

Tim , if you go to www.vesselfinder.com or one of the similar websites , you can track a container ships movements , if you know the vessels name , which should be on your shipping paperwork.
It won't get you the bodyshell any quicker or add anything to your project but it is quite interesting to follow.
I have imported a couple of vehicles from the states in the past and its interesting to see boats being diverted to Europe on route etc.

[1iTim]

Thanks El p, I've just yesterday received confirmation the crate has been collected and have a Sydney eta of 29/6/15. I've got the ship name and using liveshiptrack to see it. It's not yet docked in England but very cool!

[davecymru]

29th of June... So that gives you loads of time to strip the donor, refurbish it, change your mind, re-do things and then buy tons of bits you don't 'really' need from e-bay :)

[1iTim]

Ha ha ha I hear you brother! I tried fitting the fuel pump spacer I bought at great expense but the studs holding the pump on are too short to fit it! If I needed I could extract those and replace them but I'll see how the regulator goes.

[1iTim]

Update on the "proper oil" for the carb dashpots; perfect! Now revs happily and very quickly too, up and down. If you're using motor oil in the SUs get some proper oil! (Don't think the zenith or solex need oil)

[Marc F]

I shall research and buy some - must be on the net somewhere. Thansk for the heads up, as I am running twin SUs

[1iTim]

Got mine from rimmers, Marc, about 5 pounds. But it's 20 grade oil. I was able to find straight 15 at motor bike shop but got the 20 from rimmers. It truly transformed the throttle response

[1iTim]

The parts are safely in the hands of the shippers! I expect arrival slightly after 9 months from ordering. Seems I'm in the 3rd trimester

[Marc F]

Good luck with the delivery - always a stressful time for mother and baby :-)

[Paul L]

Great to hear your big box is finally on its way. :cool:

...I expect arrival slightly after 9 months from ordering. ...

Quite by chance, after the first parts of my Sammio kit arrived, I had to wait 9 months for the last parts to arrive. :rolleyes:

At least your kit has to travel half way around the world, not just from Poole to London! :icon_wink:

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

The ship is underway out of Southhampton!

[garyh]

when I saw a pic of your car in the crate, I thought that was at you end already...

[1iTim]

No that was just photo proof it actually was finished...

[garyh]

Will you have it by August?

[1iTim]

Should do. Also all I need to do is bolt the body on and I'm good to go

[1iTim]

I've been thinking of doing the floors in aluminium. However I'm finding it hard to find anyone to do it for me (I've welded steel once, I'm not going to try it on aluminium when my life will depend on it). So I may be happy with the grp floors or make them from 1mm mild steel. I should be able to get those done without much drama. Steel floor will mean I can weld it to the frame if I like, too.
Ships in the Mediterranean now...

[garyh]

I used steel, Tim. Its going to be painted anyway, i wasn't worried about the weight...

[Marc F]

Why not folded and rivetted - it was good enough for race cars. Would bond quite well to the chassis and outriggers, so will be strong enough I would say

[1iTim]

Yes I agree Marc, it just that I don't think I can get bends crisp enough to satisfy myself, so was trying to find an aluminium fabricator to do it with a machine.

[1iTim]

First attempt at a utube vid

Engine startup
http://youtu.be/GQVvTzHL0VE

[garyh]

Sounds healthy, Tim.

[1iTim]

garyh Sounds healthy, Tim.

Thanks Gary!

[garyh]

Tim, my floors came out well.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w457/garyhalfacre/f02a657c88d60810d56c044504e66a1e.jpg (http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/garyhalfacre/media/f02a657c88d60810d56c044504e66a1e.jpg.html)

[ozi jim]

Why not folded and rivetted - it was good enough for race cars. Would bond quite well to the chassis and outriggers, so will be strong enough I would say

Riveting and bonding would be heaps but Rego laws are it has to be fully welded in.


Jim

[1iTim]

Gary did u have those laser or cnc cut? If so can u email me the drawings please? I looked on ur Photobucket. Nice work there.

[1iTim]

New tyres: old and new (175/70/r13) continentals
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/90EA439A-9F6E-4560-A654-C4C6D6AB109C_zpsw3vodmu0.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/90EA439A-9F6E-4560-A654-C4C6D6AB109C_zpsw3vodmu0.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

Testing via Instagram as I'm sick of Photobucket
https://instagram.com/p/3GdFF7Bxdk/

Well that didn't work well

Tried from Facebook too and no joy. Guess I'm stuck in the bucket. I've unsubscribed from the email I wonder if that will stop the whole thing from working!

We'll see
T

[Viatron]

Tim I use Picassa online and it works well, Same as Google Photos but older :-)

[1iTim]

Thanks V I'll check it out

[garyh]

Tim, I cut them with an angle grinder. I just got some steel and clamped it underneath so I could draw inside of chassis rail and outriggers etc...
Then drew a line approx 15mm from each edge, which gave me the floor area. The decided that the drop was 75mm, reducing to 25mm at the rear

[1iTim]

Thanks Gary. And th cool swage wheelIe thing? What's that called? Might have to get myself one of those too.

(The box of goodies is about half way through the Suez Canal now)

Tim

[8 Valve Ed]

It will have covered some miles before it even gets on the road! :eusa_angel:

[1iTim]

It's certainly better travelled than I am!

[garyh]

Tim, it's a beading tool. Just don't make the panels to big to handle...

[1iTim]

Lowered a bit. The rimmer block (which I think they get from canleys) is a tight fit:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/32DE0ABA-7970-4208-8983-7CB2A8552BB4_zps661a7cld.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/32DE0ABA-7970-4208-8983-7CB2A8552BB4_zps661a7cld.jpg.html)

It needed a bit of persuading with the persuader.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/DF1301CC-240C-4690-B4C1-2DE6207A5C60_zpspjmexlwp.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/DF1301CC-240C-4690-B4C1-2DE6207A5C60_zpspjmexlwp.jpg.html)

But got it in the end. Eagle eyes may notice one less leaf. It's a guess, but from others comments on the rear being a bit stiff. We'll see how it goes.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/4D81BB07-AB1F-4548-93D7-6E50F919A2B0_zpsgp1gz7pt.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/4D81BB07-AB1F-4548-93D7-6E50F919A2B0_zpsgp1gz7pt.jpg.html)

[Marc F]

love the two tone chassis - hadn't noticed that before

[1iTim]

The grey is an impact resistant thick plasticky paint I put underneath to protect the powdercoat from stone chips. Looks alright too!

The tyres are 175/70R13 and don't foul anything even on full lock.

t

[1iTim]

I'm not going wires like most of u blokes just the original steelies
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/E0DC02F6-83D4-46E7-8311-4BD7E0BE1205_zpsglxioilu.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/E0DC02F6-83D4-46E7-8311-4BD7E0BE1205_zpsglxioilu.jpg.html)

[garyh]

Snap... I have white walls too, mines not a race car.

[Marc F]

Joy of our cars. I am going for wires for that "50's race look", but I know they are rubbish in reality.

[Paul L]

1iTim - I like the look of painted steel wheels & shiny hub caps & think GaryH's look good too. :cool:

My donor car came with brand new alloy wheels and tyres, so I am simply sticking with them for now.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Do you have a map view of your container, in the same way you can track a plane on its flight path?

[1iTim]

PS
Do you have a map view of your container, in the same way you can track a plane on its flight path?[/QUOTE]

Yes Paul (and thanks, too! I may go mini lite eventually but I want to see the results with the coloured wheels first)


http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/0D56DD6E-2172-49D9-968C-5E2D666FE300_zps4xkzyudp.png (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-05/0D56DD6E-2172-49D9-968C-5E2D666FE300_zps4xkzyudp.png.html)

[davecymru]

I think removing one leaf may be a good idea for ride quality, just keep an eye on the Swing Spring as it settles, as mine is already a bit lower than when I'd finished and Towed found a great photo comparison of my Sammio build with the new spring fitted and then after 12 months and the height difference was quite visible!

Love the veined drum brakes btw! :)

[1iTim]

Thanks Dave. I'll certainly not throw the leaf away! And thanks about the drums- not many people can saw their car has the pinnacle of brake technology on the car! (Drum brake tech, sure, but still the best and way cool looking) also with "settling in" anyone who's taken the rear hubs off please check the nut at 5 and 10k miles

[1iTim]

Tuning video on utube Sounding pretty awesome. But eventually will need a muffler...
Now it has GV needles (quite lean) in the hs2s with tubular exhaust headers, as the hs2 DD needles were too rich. My father in law is the expert in the vid.

http://youtu.be/kz5mNoon5xM

[Paul L]

1iTim - Your car sounds like a motorcycle! :eek:

Jokes aside, I'm looking forward to the day when I can get my own engine running again.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
The cargo ship tracking map is great. :cool:

[1iTim]

ThAnks Paul, I'll take that as a compliment! Yes it is extremely satisfying to get it running again. And after my mods it runs and sounds better.

T

[1iTim]

Thought I'd add that when I changed the 948 to closed crank breathing I had it routed to the manifold,past the carbies. It was sucking too much unmetered air (even with a 1.5mm restrictor) so I've rigged up a spare brake bleed nipple to go in the back plate of carb 2.

G'night
T

Pic of the back plate of back carb
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/648BF0FC-E794-4396-BB3D-FACFFF824B7E_zpsbtxkirxd.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/648BF0FC-E794-4396-BB3D-FACFFF824B7E_zpsbtxkirxd.jpg.html)

[1iTim]

Here's a vid with the muffler on
http://youtu.be/IdsRz4qg7Hw

[1iTim]

Hi all, could anyone please direct me to a section that deals with headlights and what we need to buy to put them in? I've got the bulbs from the herald but no longer have the bonnet.

[1iTim]

Chasing down a good state of tune for my 948 with a pair of hs2s. They came with DD needles, too rich. I put the GVs from the original herald h1s, still too rich. A bit of research showed there are different strength springs for the dashpots, and if the carbs are "on the large side" for the engine try a lower strength spring. So I've got the "blue" springs, and a set of CA needles which were a lean option to the GVs.

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/7CB23CC1-53D9-4E88-805C-943A044E8A86_zpsq4vjwown.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/7CB23CC1-53D9-4E88-805C-943A044E8A86_zpsq4vjwown.jpg.html)

Blue on the left red on the right.
More info when I get a chance to fire it up.

[1iTim]

Check it out everybody:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/3DF7B93E-1D3C-4F3C-BE63-D299286CDFAA_zps5lsfhspe.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/3DF7B93E-1D3C-4F3C-BE63-D299286CDFAA_zps5lsfhspe.jpg.html)


The fit is not as good as I have been led to believe (and forget about the included floors-not really fit for purpose.

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/9A023582-82D4-4556-9BA4-EBE2265C7F04_zpsk43nrola.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/9A023582-82D4-4556-9BA4-EBE2265C7F04_zpsk43nrola.jpg.html)

The engine protrudes significantly and I still am yet to settle the frame and body to final height.

There is work to be done

[garyh]

nice to see that it has arrived, but that looks way out... Or is the angle of the shot?

[PJ GRABOWSKI]

You must have something wrong there , that's just not correct by a long ways , buddy.
Can you take some more pictures so we can figure whats going on ?

whats the fender to rim alignment like ? that might hold a few clues.

[1iTim]

Not too concerned with fender - rim height but front rear is alright. I've not got the back sorted regarding the very back section of the chassis so that may hold a bit of info.

T

[Mister Towed]

That motor does look as if it's protruding rather a lot.

From one of the pictures it appears that the body is just resting on top of the rear boot outriggers, once they're cut down and sitting about 4" up inside the shell the front edge of the bonnet should rise up a little.

Is it just the front of the engine that's proud of the bonnet opening? If so, dropping the back of the shell over the outriggers may help with the engine clearance, but it may also make your seat a bit too high.

You mention that the supplied floorpans are not fit for purpose, is your seat on a flat floor at the moment? If it is I'd recommend you make up some lowered pans as you don't want your driving position to be too high up or your ears will ruin the aerodynamics...

[1iTim]

I've moved the body forward a bit and that has helped. Mr t the seats are on blocks to simulate the floor height I want/ can accommodate the herald seats. I'll make some drop floors from 1mm steel. I'm probably being harsh re the fibreglass floors but they are narrow and go back so far that getting to the rear toe adjustment/ tie rod nuts would be difficult. I also have concerns over the strength of them with a seat, person and bumps. So I will go metal. (Not mental)
Once I figure out what my compliance engineer thinks I will sort those rear chassis extensions.

T

[PJ GRABOWSKI]

Tim , thx for the extra info. I think that with a bit of wrestling you can workout the fit ok. It must be frustrating after such a long time to put it on and its not visually as you had imagined , but your initial thoughts might be unjust after you adjust heights , angles ect.
My question was relating to rim position in the fender arches , are they centered ? I know this is an issue with the Sammios but have been led to believe its fixed on this reworked version of that car. Its difficult to get a difinitive answer on this one as pictures suggest there is still issues in this area but not a lot of info from builders being offered up to answer the question thoroughly.

I don't know what the current situation is with buying a Miglia at the moment as things seem very quiet on this thread , no imput from the suppliers and virtually no new builds appearing , but there is something very charming about this little car that keeps drawing me back to it.

[Paul L]

1iTim - Have you got any form of internal framework in place?

Here are a few photos from DaveCymru's build that might help you line things up.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/out_2_zps4aa37c17.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/bodyon1_zps1c8ea3fc.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/bodyon2_zpsa320e7ad.jpg

I know Dave did a bit of fine tuning after this initial test fit, but it wasn't too far out for a first attempt.

Good luck, Paul. :)

[1iTim]

Thanks guys, I'll be working on it. There a couple of bits where I may have the fitment out, but I'll fiddle around and take a few more photos. Your (all you fellow madabouters) input and comments, and re-posting of relevant pics is very helpful.

I think I've come across a bit negative which is not how I'm feeling- the proportion of this car is very sweet and I'm looking forward to working it out.

T

[davecymru]

Whoo Hoo, now the real fun begins! :)


Thanks for posting those pics up Paul, that saves me doing it and that seems like so long ago now!

As far as initial body and frame fit is concerned, I remember I did a lot of jiggling around to get the wheels where I wanted them to be in the shell and then getting all mentally prepared to lower my radiator like I did with the Sammio.
But then I roughly positioned the frame, body and bonnet and it all just fitted and covered everything!
And that was over my straight 6 with a normal rad. In fact I remember phoning Mike to double check that it was meant to "just fit" without having to lower anything and being very happy when it did :)


In case it helps.... If I were to do it all again I would screw the doors and bonnet in place while you do the initial frame and body fitting and then when it's roughly bonded in place and the main tub can't move about, only then take the doors and bonnet off! I had a few alignment issues on my doors because I didn't do that. It wasn't hard to fix, but it would have been so easy to avoid in the first place

[davecymru]

oh and btw, I had yet to lower the suspension when those pics were taken! Nowadays it sits like this on 14's:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/WP_20150415_10_22_38_Pro_zpss03qhajr.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/davecymru/media/Miglia/WP_20150415_10_22_38_Pro_zpss03qhajr.jpg.html)

This also answers a few peoples questions about where in the arches the wheels sit "as standard"! :)

[davecymru]

another "ohh"

I used Mikes rear floorpans and while there is some flex in them they have been fine so far and were a really good fit.
Although I did fabricate alloy front pans due to me wanting to press on while I was waiting for mike (and I wanted to have a play with alloy fab before I started on the interior panelling!)

[1iTim]

Thanks heaps Dave, I will be trawling over your thread in detail and may pm you for more info pics if I need to if that's ok with you?

T

[1iTim]

I see in one of daves photos the front cross member that the bonnet hinges from, there's mounting points that I don't have. Also at the rear it looks like my chassis (herald 948 coupe/convertible) has mounting points a little different to his too. More pics later

T

[EL PRIMER]

Having spoken to Mike recently , the kits are very much still available . I believe they are actively being advertised still.
Mikes main business is camper van repair and some bodykit fibreglass items he supplies in bulk for a manufacturer , so the kits have become a side business due to economics but he tells me he has 5 on order so they are still selling .
I cant say why these new builders arent on here but maybe they lurk , maybe forums arent there thing ? It would be cool if they could just say hello and goodbye though , so we can keep things current on here .

[EL PRIMER]

I see in one of daves photos the front cross member that the bonnet hinges from, there's mounting points that I don't have. Also at the rear it looks like my chassis (herald 948 coupe/convertible) has mounting points a little different to his too. More pics later

T

Tim , the first Sammio was built on a 948 chassis and when it went into production , the framework had to be altered as the later , 1200 style chassis are different.
The biggest difference was the box section itself , the earlier ones are flatter than the later ones , I cannot remember if they were the same section but laid on its side or just shorter sections but they are definitely not as tall. Also as you say the rear section is different and the front crossmember was different as well.
I dont know exactly how Mikes frame works but it will be a similar concept to the Sammio one , he definitely created his framework using the later style chassis , so , although I cannot stand here and say definitely , there is a chance your frame will need modifying to work for you .

[1iTim]

You are right El p here a shot of daves front chassis:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/F6F89D31-E286-47E8-B81F-FE6C50E2FB44.png_zpsircx8yy1.jpeg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/F6F89D31-E286-47E8-B81F-FE6C50E2FB44.png_zpsircx8yy1.jpeg.html)

Showing the mount points I don't have.
Here's mine:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/F720BA5B-7CAF-4E5A-A39E-D2FF22770316_zpsjvxz754u.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/F720BA5B-7CAF-4E5A-A39E-D2FF22770316_zpsjvxz754u.jpg.html)

Here's how it sits in that position:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/36DD9BEB-DD6F-4E0D-B9D4-DFF40D21798A_zpsvegca4i9.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/36DD9BEB-DD6F-4E0D-B9D4-DFF40D21798A_zpsvegca4i9.jpg.html)

Big gap wheel to arch but still has orig suspension. Here's a look from the side with the body on in that position With the front frame drop mounts on top of the "internal bumper bar" as I'm calling it:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w612/1iTim/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/2BA72033-9000-4610-AEC8-78CFA31B2B96_zpsgvdunsom.jpg (http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1iTim/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/2BA72033-9000-4610-AEC8-78CFA31B2B96_zpsgvdunsom.jpg.html)

Looks like I'll need shorter spring after all- the spax adjustable is not quite enough.
I'll probably end up mounting the front frame cross member to the vertical bonnet hinge attachment points.
T

[davecymru]

Brilliant to hear he's still producing, he's got a really cool product! :)

I've been looking for a pic of my frame "as delivered" so that you have something to compare to but I can't find one, plus I know that Mike is constantly improving his default offering so I'm not sure how relevant it would be?

That said, I have found some more detailed pics I'd not posted before with a few of the mods I made to my frame. I hope you don't mind me posting them here?

Here's the rear.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/frame_rear_zpsdwlck0nn.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/davecymru/media/Miglia/frame_rear_zpsdwlck0nn.jpg.html)

The circled bits are the main crossmember, which I was going to cut off and re-welded in order to give more wheel arch clearance, but in the end I simply chamfered the ends and that did the job.

The other is the small vertical bracket I added and bolted to the chassis (2 - one each side of the tunnel) as the rear frame cross member was flexing when the handbrake was pulled on and it wasn't working very well. Adding these two brackets hugely improved the feel and efficiency of the handbrake and made things much more solid.


Here's what I ended up with the front of my frame looking like after I'd chopped and re-welded a few bits in order to get better clearance for the gauges.
Plus i added some re-enforcing for the pedals and the two small sections of Box for the wings to fit onto.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/davecymru/Miglia/frame_front_zpslfxwygju.jpg (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/davecymru/media/Miglia/frame_front_zpslfxwygju.jpg.html)

Hope this helps?

[1iTim]

Yes good to hear mike is still making these. Also no probs posting those pics here in fact brilliant. You wouldn't happen to have any photos of the rear under the tank? Also you added the front to rear handbrake bit?

[1iTim]

I've had another crawl around and a few more mental notes. I must say that the gear lever extension that mike supplied is the perfect length. I'll need to consider changing to a later model rocker cover to get that height down. Anyone done this? The rear frame mount points are a little uneven: I may simply shim one side.
I've spent some time in the seat and stuck on some instrument placings too! But the steering wheel will need moving up and out so that will change in time.

[EL PRIMER]

looking at that front 3/4 shot the rear bulkhead support bar looks very low to me , again no expert on the Miglia frame but I would have expected the body to drop down and sit on that 'goalpost' bar putting the seat belt mounts into the top outside area of the cockpit rear , ie , just behind your shoulder. Perhaps Davecymru can jump in here but if the body could drop to that height would that possibly sort out the front height issue too ? Is your inner wing area sat on the frame ? Is your steering support area , the front goalpost under the dash anywhere near being sat right under the front bulkhead ? Thats where I would expect it to be , but cannot stress enough that I am familiar with the Sammio concept and not the Miglia , so it may be different.

[EL PRIMER]

I would be tempted to chop those front support legs right off , let the front of the frame drop and see how that changes things , re instating the support legs later when you know therir correct length and changing them to pickup with a mounting point on the chassis , maybe an angle iron style bracket mounting to the rail behind the front tube and bolting horizontally through the rail ?

[swifty]

Just caught up with your build 1iTim and congratulations on the arrival of the body.

The fun now begins and the figuring out of how to make things fit is what makes these builds unique. By the looks of it the finish on your tub looks a million dollars compared to what i started with so definitely a lot less work required as i have just spent 8 whole hours rubbing the shell down to try and aim for a good finish and still have to do it all again twice over, oh happy days.

Looking forward to see the rest of your build with plenty of photos i hope.

[EL PRIMER]

Having spoken to Mike recently , the kits are very much still available

Further to this , I visited Mikes neighbour in the unit 3 doors down this evening . Although it was well after hours and Mikes unit was locked up for the night , there are 3 Miglia frames sat outside looking like they have recently been delivered by his fabricator. So , I have seen physical evidence of the kits still being produced.

[1iTim]

Hi all, may be crass talking costs but if any Aussies are reading this and weighing up the costs it cost me just under $5k Australian to get the crate of parts from door to door.

T

[Carib Classics]

Further to this , I visited Mikes neighbour in the unit 3 doors down this evening . Although it was well after hours and Mikes unit was locked up for the night , there are 3 Miglia frames sat outside looking like they have recently been delivered by his fabricator. So , I have seen physical evidence of the kits still being produced.
Yes they are available I just took delivery of my subframe last week. Although Mike is doing other things he is available and can be caught during the day. Happy days for me, its on with my next phase, I might get my body on before the winter set in, which will leave me the cold months to trim and flatten ready for final painting next spring.

[Marc F]

Well, that is good news - I might still be able to get a receipt from him then, so I can register mine. Wish he would reply to calls, texts and emails though...sigh...

[1iTim]

:focus:

[Marc F]

Indeed Tim - good to see progress for all our cars :-)

But $5k shipping - wow, you guys down South sure have it tough. The car will be worth it though - I think all of us who have embarked on these builds love the look of these cars, and I guess we know they will cost us far more than our original budgets - part of teh fun :-)