Nicks Sammio Build - take 2

[WorldClassAccident]

I am keeping details here : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/home

I think the site should be viewable but let me know if you have problems.

Anyway, Day 1 - I have bought a donor vehicle. Whip the body off, touch of rust repair, slap the G46 on, bit of paste and polish. Should be done soon.

What could possibly go wrong?

;-)

[tlrtone]

I hope that the Sammio Spyder will be in keeping with the "donor" and have an alotment in the engine bay :biggrin1:

Looks like you will have your work cut out with that. I didn't know fibreglass could "rust" but maybe I was wrong..........

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. You might be lucky and nature has protected the chassis from any damage. Then again....

On the road for easter I reckon. :eusa_clap:

[Alpha]

Well, you difinitely went for a project car!

Planning on keeping the plants in the engine bay? Would sure add some talking points and make this a truly unique car !

Baz

[davecymru]

That'll all polish out! i'm sure you'll be fine! :)

[tlrtone]

I hope that the Sammio Spyder will be in keeping with the "donor" and have an alotment in the engine bay :biggrin1:

Looks like you will have your work cut out with that. I didn't know fibreglass could "rust" but maybe I was wrong..........

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. You might be lucky and nature has protected the chassis from any damage. Then again....

On the road for easter I reckon. :eusa_clap:

I should have said Sammio G46 :frusty:

[andrewhush]

I am keeping details here : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/home

I think the site should be viewable but let me know if you have problems.

Anyway, Day 1 - I have bought a donor vehicle. Whip the body off, touch of rust repair, slap the G46 on, bit of paste and polish. Should be done soon.

What could possibly go wrong?

;-)
I am also intending to fit a full windscreen, side windows and hood to my G46 kit which arrived today. This is the first time I have seen one in the flesh and it is suprisingly large. I have already obtained a MG Midget screen, frame, hoodframe (with knackered hood) and two rough doors which will supply the quarterlights and wind up windows. I don't know how much of this lot will fit but initial measurements look promising. All of these bits have been cheap and easily found. Once I have made enough progress I will start a thread with pics.

[WorldClassAccident]

andrew - Where are you based? If near Southampton I wouldn't mind taking some notes. I have someone lined up who reckons he can sort me a windscreen, wrap around side panels and possibly even a hood of some type once I show him the shell.

I want to keep the d-type wrap around effect but if you look at the Eagle E-Type Speedster they manage the wrap around look. No plans for their up and down able side windows though

It will probably take me a day or two to get my donor vehicle up to the point where I am

[andrewhush]

Not quite, County Durham, approx 330 miles closer to the arctic circle! The midget screen is quite flat. For wrap around effect a mgb one might be better as it is more curved but could be too wide. Speak to Gary at Sammio as he did offer me one from an early ford special. He also suggested a screen from a porsche speedster kit might do.

[WorldClassAccident]

Mk2 Healey may be the way to go. they have curves at the sides and the guy I have got the donor from make replacement hoods and other parts for Healeys. he had a screen sat at the back of the office to show the curve.

I really want to maintain the streamlined wrap around look of the aeroscreen but with bird strike protection. This guy also makes boat screens out of some fancy pants plastic so reckons he can blend that into the side of the windscreen and fix ot to the top of the doors.

His brother is into yacht designing and restoring so the pair have a bit of form in that area. He has a chuffing great Sun Seeker in another barn that he picked up from underneath the Med.

tirtone - That isn't rust, it is lichen. We live in the lovely clean air of the New Forest. The roof shot including the glass house shows the lichen to the best effect while the front shot shows the moss quite nicely. When I decide to change the fluids I will be using oil, antifreeze and Ribena!

[WorldClassAccident]

Bu66er - just checked the DVLA details and it is a 1969 car. This is the earlier model with the 92inch wheel base instead of the SE5a which has a 99inch wheel base.

I had better 'un-buy' it and look for another.

[Charman.tech]

WCA

I think the 92" wheel base would work better than the 99" cant be a big issue to cut 7" out of the middle. We are going to play a little with our G46 cutting and chopping but have not made the first cut as yet will reveal all later.

[WorldClassAccident]

How will it work with the width though?
1966 car
Front track 51.5
Rear track 51.5
Wheelbase 96
Width 61.5

1972 car
Front track 55
Rear track 52.5
Wheelbase 99
Width 64.5

The car might look a bit anorexic under the bodywork

You have a scimitar and the body work there so I would really appreciate your opinion

Gary - do you have any views on this?

[WorldClassAccident]

Ignore the last posts. It looks like the detail on Carfolio is wrong. The car is a GTE SE5 which was available from '68 to '72 when it was replaced by the SE5a.

There are no differences in wheelbase/width between the SE5 and SE5a so everything should still fit.

Phew! I would hate to lose such a pristine donor model.

[Mister Towed]

You could always have bought a Reliant Robin and modified the G46 bodywork to fit the chassis.

How do you measure the front wheelbase on a Robin I wonder...

[davecymru]

How do you measure the front wheelbase on a Robin I wonder...

With a 12" ruler? :humble:

[WorldClassAccident]

Well I pick up the car/plastic plant pot on wednesday. I will post some pictures to show you the pristine under body.

[tlrtone]

Well I pick up the car/plastic plant pot on wednesday. I will post some pictures to show you the pristine under body.

:biggrin1: Look forward to the pics.

You may need to enlist the help of a trained horticulturalist to strip it down! :thumb:

[Alpha]

Ignore the last posts. It looks like the detail on Carfolio is wrong. The car is a GTE SE5 which was available from '68 to '72 when it was replaced by the SE5a.

There are no differences in wheelbase/width between the SE5 and SE5a so everything should still fit.

Phew! I would hate to lose such a pristine donor model.

Man, these kind of shenanigans are not good for peace of mind and life expectancy...

Glad it worked out in the end !

Baz

[WorldClassAccident]

Okay, This site (https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/) has the full story to date but a couple of pics to titillate

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oZ2st5ybIMY/TyBARazBePI/AAAAAAAABIQ/moqEnlfen0A/s640/2012-01-25%252015.17.55.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UZXlbbiZg30/TyBARDTTdBI/AAAAAAAABIE/ahk60LsDgkA/s640/2012-01-25%252015.18.14.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k6AfxVBM9qg/TyL6HGqwFfI/AAAAAAAABMc/liYpZH_g3xo/s640/2012-01-27%252015.49.51.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0C_xBi_4jg8/TyL6IH2q2oI/AAAAAAAABMg/zgBmUtc7cC8/s640/2012-01-27%252017.07.39.jpg


The angle grinder is my new best friend!

[Mister Towed]

Great link to your build thread. I'd have replied ages ago but I was busy feeding the fish...
:biggrin:

[lancelot link]

And he's off .....nice start Nick.

[WorldClassAccident]

Lancelot - are you at work tomorrow. I want some advice about how much to cut down the body work. I also want to pay the deposit (££££££££)

I will ring tomorrow to check.

None f your photos on the thread you recommended show the back of the car.

I love my angle grinder but dont want to destroy too much

[tlrtone]

:eusa_angel: Well it looks better now the weeds have gone.

[WorldClassAccident]

You should see my planed paint and detailing for the G46, something liek this
http://hight3ch.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/05/FlowerCar2.jpg

and then my next restoration project

http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/45634000/jpg/_45634251_vintagegrowing4.jpg

[lancelot link]

Lancelot - are you at work tomorrow. I want some advice about how much to cut down the body work. I also want to pay the deposit (££££££££)

I will ring tomorrow to check.

None f your photos on the thread you recommended show the back of the car.

I love my angle grinder but dont want to destroy too much

Nick,
Yes we are about from 9.00 ish until 2.00 ish.

I have a customer coming mid morning but other than that its a bit of a tidy up day , so feel free to swing by !

[WorldClassAccident]

Cheers. Just want to give you some money and get reassurance on what to cut and what to leave. Heading down now.

[WorldClassAccident]

Bit of work done today. check this if you are interested. https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/january-28

suggestions for the name of this beast please

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SuxNd921XgU/TyRKj0RDhcI/AAAAAAAABPU/dwang7xLbY4/s640/2012-01-28%252014.07.10.jpg]

I suggest Sammio

[tlrtone]

I reckon you should encase him in Amber and use him as the Gear Knob. :icon_smile:

[Psycho pops]

I guess Sammio Spider is too obvious..

[WorldClassAccident]

Forgot to show the surface rust I uncovered on the outriggers. I had managed to get to the back of the outriggers and they seemed reasonably solid square steel with a touch of surface rust.

When I uncovered the front of the same bit of steel it had miraculously transformed into a single rusty leaf spring!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KwwivdGSc48/TyRKkv6N4SI/AAAAAAAABPg/YogbmGw09CM/s640/2012-01-28%252015.41.51.jpg


Any advice on Arc Welding?

It seems to be quite close to the plastic so I guess that might start melting / burning. not sure how best to approach that.

[garyh]

I think you will need to start from scratch!:laser:

[davecymru]

I think you will need to start from scratch!:laser:

I hate to say it but based on my experiences, I agree.

[WorldClassAccident]

Define start from scratch please

I was thinking of cutting out the out rigger and replacing the whole length down the sides of the car.

For the bits that the outrigger is mounted to I was planning on cleaning up and then welding a bit on to the end if required.

Having said that, I haven't attacked it with the angle grinder and wire brush yet or even bought an arc welder so it is still theoretical at the moment.

All advice welcome

[tlrtone]

Looks like it it destined for a full body off rebuild. It will be the only way to make sure you have sorted everything. It is a pain to have to strip it all down, but the satisfaction of knowing that the next 10 years MOT's won't be a problem is a great feeling!

[redratbike]

think removing the lowerbody/floorpan might be in order

[WorldClassAccident]

Bu66er.

I think you are probably right though :-(

[Charman.tech]

Nick

No decision to be made floor pan, off and do the whole chassis.

Ours was gone in the same place and that is the best you will find a SE5a. The chassis repair was so simple new side rails both sides and front out riggers.

Chassis rails are available from Graham Walker Ltd next day delivery.

Did not have a welding kit at the time I did the work so I bolted and aligned the new new rails and a local freelance welder turn up to weld it all in place for about £35 I have not needed to use a welder since.

We have not worked on the car for the last month, been finishing the new garage, gutters and the boring bits outside, but god bits internally have fitted the garage out with tool racking systems and benches, will not post a picture in case no one talks to me in the future! All it needs is a bed and a wide screen telly.

Charlie my helper has also gone back to work abroad until May.

Rebuilding the front suspension is the current piece- meal job.

With the body off you can as mentioned by others refurbish the whole chassis and running gear

See our G46 V8 Mk1 thread

When naming our sammio's we should adopt the idea of Italianising your surname an idea devised by Madmark and ourselves in the pub one night, for instance:

Our surname is Charman so our car could be:-

1. Charmarini G46 V8 Mk1: or
2. Charmaratti G46 V8 Mk 1

Of course the name Sammio would be incorporates in the name but Gary might have to make the body wider to fit it in.

My wife being Italian maiden name was Lapi so that might work better as a Laparini or a Laparatti
In reference to how much to cut off the existing body, we cut and cut, and still had to cut more!

[WorldClassAccident]

Thanks for the confirmation. Now I just need to find all the bolts.

Spanner of angle grinder?

The seats are rusted in place so they are being ground off underneath.

[Charman.tech]

Can't believe you asked the question, angle grinder of course.

I think there are 14 bolts, but you will not have to unbolt the ones on the front outrigger he,he.

We also had to angle grind the set runners as well.

Good luck.

[WorldClassAccident]

Body free after much angle grinding ;-)

Can't break the steering column at the moment. I have removed one of the bolts in the UJ but my hammer doesn't seem big enough. I am bathing it in WD40 and having a beer while I think about it.

Any other suggestions

[Charman.tech]

Nick

I have been caught out on that before, have you taken the bolt all the way out as the splined shaft is notched to take part of the bolt diameter.

[WorldClassAccident]

Bolt is sat in what is left of the bulkhead :-(

I am putting my faith in WD40 and a lump hammer.

Also need to get the steering wheel off but don't have a big enough socket.

[lancelot link]

sounds like this is moving forward nicely Nick ....you are discovering the cheap donor versus dearer donor disadvantages by the look of things .....

plus points are that your time is mostly free and if a builder doesn't have much money it doesn't prohibit them from getting involved in building a Sammio....

If you want a Cobra or similar , there is no alternative , the nice shiny kit will always be a major expense.

You have £100 invested so far and that has been recouped via parts sales , I believe , so you are starting a car build with most of your major mechanical components sat in front of you for virtually nothing !!

Not many cars that you can start on that basis !

[WorldClassAccident]

Yeah but wait until I explain the hot V8 and full drive train as a replacement for the current 3 litre Essex and overdrive to the wife!!!

If I get the steering column sorted I should get the body off and chassis cleaned up a bit during the next week. I am busy for the next couple of weekends but the current plan is to get it down to you by the second half of Feb for the fitting stuff we talked about.

Just need to see whether I can face the welding needed or do I bring extra donuts and ask you ;-)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vXHQKutB0rc/TyaAPlwuYQI/AAAAAAAABWw/9DzwCsptUpg/s640/2012-01-30%252011.23.05.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2qHWreiTbIE/TyaAPebrQgI/AAAAAAAABWo/6Zxv6KopFLI/s640/2012-01-30%252011.22.53.jpg

[WorldClassAccident]

Just nipped out in my lunch hour with a bigger hammer and the steering wheel is now out and the body standing clear. I just need a couple of mates to lift off the shell and put it down nicely. There is a limit to what I can do on my own.

Health and Saftey people may want to look away.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Dp3Tyv0jg9Q/Tyal7DTuZOI/AAAAAAAABX0/84LRO5yGvVI/s640/2012-01-30%252014.08.23.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QgOyPMSIQWk/Tyal6ty0b_I/AAAAAAAABXw/hTG_gDOWdD8/s640/2012-01-30%252014.08.08.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y9FfnV-USFs/Tyal6tgCHvI/AAAAAAAABXs/ZaS67a0-pPc/s640/2012-01-30%252014.07.59.jpg

[tlrtone]

:spy: looks perfectly secure to me

[garyh]

You don't want to upset the owners of that stateley home, just behind the car...:biggrin:

[Charman.tech]

We did it the hard way we took the body (whole) off and then cut it up. Strapped it to a 1 tonne chain hoist connected to the garage roof trusses and hoisted it.

In my defence I had no idea we was going to build a Sammio at the time.

The floor pan can be lifted with two so that's not to bad, but a major problem if you are only one!

[WorldClassAccident]

Before https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7LcOtr63iaQ/Tye4Zfiq83I/AAAAAAAABYw/yI7DdqWqM3c/s400/2012-01-30%252015.40.53.jpg

After https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v9SwStB7sK4/Tye4ZuZeIHI/AAAAAAAABY0/1P8-1AWyezk/s400/2012-01-30%252015.50.51.jpg

[WorldClassAccident]

Haven't updated this thread for a while so here goes.

Body off - tick
Chassis part cleaned of rust - tick
Chassis welded - Trying to persuade a friends dad that he needs to have a go
Chassis rust proofed - Started on the good metal at the back, lack of welding (and cold) stopped play
Chassis in the garage - tick. Hopefully will be warmer
Wheels cleaned and painted - Tick. Mainly cosmetic but makes it look less of a wreck and I needed to take the wheels off to clean up the rear of the chassis.
New suspension bushings ordered - Tick. Well the request for a quote went to Graham Walker Ltd.
Scimitar SE5 parts manual found - Tick. Well copied of the Graham Walker site. Anyone else want a copy showing exploded diagrams of all the parts and listing their part numbers?


Well from some angles it looks like the car is almost ready
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XKchGQjbv2U/TzOyVNAVyUI/AAAAAAAABcc/W_rJi-onrv8/s1600/2012-02-08%252017.52.47.jpg


From other angles it still looks a long way from ready

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fShlDbXuys8/TzOyVhWoiDI/AAAAAAAABcg/341WLic1608/s400/2012-02-08%252017.53.25.jpg


If I can get the welding done soon I will be off to Poole with it to let Gary sort out the extra framework and the body. If I can't then I might take it down anyway and get Gary to do the welding.

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-02-05

[andrewhush]

Saw your build site. The chassis number should be on the offside suspension upright. I didn't know this before I had my chassis shotblasted and hot dip galvanized so I will have to restamp the number myself. See http://www.sporting-reliants.com/my_car2005.htm and scroll down to June 2005.

[WorldClassAccident]

I have looked on the upright and can't see anything but rust so far :-(

[Charman.tech]

Nick

Good to see progress on the WCAG46 or is that the G46WCA.

We used Black smooth hammerite on our chassis (had a tin under the bench) the metal was so solid after 38 years we reckon it would last out long enough for us with a splash and dash!

Recently sent of log book to change the engine particulars for the V8 and you want to see the proof they are asking me for the ownership of the engine, despite I had it registered to another car for 7 years and bought it about 12 years ago they want me to provide a receipt. Can I find the receipt, can I F----.

Worse than that I took the VIN plate off the old SE5 and can't find that either so will need to apply to DVLA before we can have the VOSA inspection.

I can't see the chassis number on the suspension uprights, but I have never really looked, I will do so later.

No progress on the car for the last few weeks and won't get back onto it for another two weeks at least.

At the rate WCA is going he is going to sail past us which is good, hope Gary is working hard on more development of the G46, feel a bit left out with the Sammio and the Cordites. Started looking at Spitfires on e-bay!!!!!!!!!

[WorldClassAccident]

At the rate WCA is going he is going to sail past us

I doubt that! I need to work out how to knock up a wiring harness and I haven't even started to look at the engine other than removing the cat* when I collected it.

*as in pussy cat, not catalytic converter

[davecymru]

Despite you building a completely different beast, its fun to see how similar the build process is to the Spyder! Keep up the good work and a little tip I found quite late into my build was to use "chassis black" rather than hammerite. Tis good stuff!

[WorldClassAccident]

POR15 and then POR Chassis black is the plan.

[WorldClassAccident]

Spent most of the weekend at a family wedding and felt a bit vacant this afternoon so haven't managed much. I decided to start looking at the oily bits while I wait for a friend of a friend to work out if he wants to help with the welding. I took the rocker covers off and there was nothing too nasty. I took the knackered carb off and then lifted the inlet manifold off.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AQ4R5bLSzWY/Tzf3DBVl-mI/AAAAAAAABuE/-GaE5B9KlUI/s640/2012-02-12%252015.53.49.jpg

There appeared to be bits of the gasket blocking some of the holes.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gaeuyc3EShk/Tzf3EC9e15I/AAAAAAAABuU/xqpPqoramcA/s640/2012-02-12%252016.04.10.jpg

When the old gasket was scraped off there was a sludgey goo behind it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R97pgp9Krqs/Tzf3Dses6JI/AAAAAAAABuI/at8DkfVA5rY/s640/2012-02-12%252016.04.00.jpg

Inside the engine was similar with three out of the four holes appearing to be blocked by the gasket and back filled with sludge. One fo the four holes was completely dry and clear of sludge.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gh46eec7q_Y/Tzf3CsSv5FI/AAAAAAAABt8/mNeFIF1w_oA/s640/2012-02-12%252015.53.14.jpg

The sludge in the engine block was more rusty.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QmDib5pK47M/Tzf3CiTqZWI/AAAAAAAABuA/Cu-SlQRbZE8/s640/2012-02-12%252015.53.23.jpg

The question is - Is it worth continuing to work on this engine or are the internal water runs likely to be blocked?

I don't have access to any special tools or machines for clearing these. Will it be cheaper / easier to swap this engine for a reconditioned one?

Any ideas / suggestions welcome.

[tlrtone]

Either way it is worth continuing the strip down to see what lies beneath. The sludge is probably caused by infrequent oil changes and white froth is water in the oil.

Strip it right down before you make your final decision. But keep an eye on eBay anyway in case of the worst!

[WorldClassAccident]

An eventful weekend that was so busy I haven't updated my blog and am posting this from the train.
I spent most of saturday stripping the engine down. This is probably an really easy task for you proper mechanics but I have never done anything like this before so it was a slow but interesting process.
Saturday night involved a surprise party and getting to bed at 4am and sunday morning started with a 10am mountain bike ride. Not a good mix!
I wasn't feeling great after the ride but got a lovely email from Chaman.tech offering me the engine and box he had taken out of his scimi for a very reasonable price. I was going to pick it up in my TVR but decided to take the reliable and practical japanese pick up instead. It broke down twenty miles from Charman.techs house with a knackered alternator. The RAC managed to get me going by recharging the battery and disconnecting the alternator. I would be fine for the journey home as long as I didn't drain the battery using unnecessary things like head lights. The drive home in the dark was interesting

Anyway I now have two engines and gear boxes. Today I will order the new outriggers to weld on and next weekend will be busy
Unfortunately it will be busy fixing the pick up first then sorting out a tripping fuse in the merc then working on the G46. Who would have thought my TVR would be the least trouble of my four cars.

[Charman.tech]

An eventful weekend that was so busy I haven't updated my blog and am posting this from the train.
I spent most of saturday stripping the engine down. This is probably an really easy task for you proper mechanics but I have never done anything like this before so it was a slow but interesting process.
Saturday night involved a surprise party and getting to bed at 4am and sunday morning started with a 10am mountain bike ride. Not a good mix!
I wasn't feeling great after the ride but got a lovely email from Chaman.tech offering me the engine and box he had taken out of his scimi for a very reasonable price. I was going to pick it up in my TVR but decided to take the reliable and practical japanese pick up instead. It broke down twenty miles from Charman.techs house with a knackered alternator. The RAC managed to get me going by recharging the battery and disconnecting the alternator. I would be fine for the journey home as long as I didn't drain the battery using unnecessary things like head lights. The drive home in the dark was interesting

Anyway I now have two engines and gear boxes. Today I will order the new outriggers to weld on and next weekend will be busy
Unfortunately it will be busy fixing the pick up first then sorting out a tripping fuse in the merc then working on the G46. Who would have thought my TVR would be the least trouble of my four cars.

Clad to hear you got home OK, It never occurred to me that it was going to be dark by the time you reached home I could have lent you a torch to hang out the window!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Nike55]

Hi WCA - your build seems to be going very well and I note that you seem to be well ahead of where you were recently on the Scim site -it could be a time warp problem with their site though!

Curious as to how G46 builders are going to finish their cars, I was going 'Mercedes Silver' with appropriate ornamentation but after visiting Holton Heath and seeing 'Orca' again believe 'Ferrari Red' (or maybe yellow) is the way to go.

Having trouble imagining rear lights, with Orca's more upright, ahem, 'flanks' horizontal lights (like Merc 300SL) don't work - wondered if vertical oblong lights would look better than a couple of round lights, but then fusion or classic? LEDs or standard?

What's the view elsewhere?

[WorldClassAccident]

I have struggled to make much progress because of family commitments but it is slowly getting there. I have the new gaskets and suspension bushes on the living room floor. I have a full stainless steel engine bolt set being delivered this week. I am hoping to strip clean and rebuild the engine this weekend.
Notice I said going to rebuild the engine. I know next to nothing about engine building but how hard can it be?
Just remembered that I need to order a steel timing wheel as mine are the original plastic ones. Also the chassis outriggers and front braces. Then get them welded on. I promised gary I would get the car down to him soon too. I might have to ask him to sort the welding at the same time as fixing the extra framework.

Colours. I definitely wanted blue until I saw the photo shop colour pictures where the dark blue didn't look as good as the burgundy. I like the ideas of mercedes silver especially as I am having the SLR twin hump style but I am not convinced it will work.

[WorldClassAccident]

The lights on this aren't too bad. I am thinking of using it as a styling reference point. Not copying it but borrowing bits and pieces
Can't pates from my phone
Google sbarro mille miglia and it I'd the yellow one. 2007 from memory

[Nike55]

I was going down the Merc SLR route but having again seen 'Orca' I am not sure it would suit. 'Orca' has too many curves, the Merc is more square/flat.

I'm cutting costs in some areas so spraying car myself, silver is a bit difficult apparently so sticking to an easier colour. Probably yellow.

Have seen the Sbarro MM and its a kind of Canary yellow of the Scaglietti Spyder Ferrari 410S.

Good luck with the engine build - the Scimitar RSSOC has a wealth of info. I went a different way and started with the best mechanical donor I could get, but of course unlike you I don't really know what the real condition of the engine/gearbox is as I haven't had to re build it - yet.

Heading to Stoneleigh this Friday to the retro racing show so should get some more ideas for lights, gauges trim etc.

Will be watching your further posts with much interest.

[WorldClassAccident]

I hope to update the blog soon too. Damn work keeps getting in the way.

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/

[WorldClassAccident]

Busy day in the garage for me today. Bu99er all to show for it. I finished striping the engine down, and then a mates nephew turned up who is a mechanic which was a stroke of luck. Apparently the economic times are hard for him at the moment so he has time on his hands and fancied helping out. Result!

Most of the engine is back together after a bit of cleaning and with new gaskets and stainless steel bolts. The end result is an car that looks pretty much the same as it did last weekend.

Another friend came round to look at the chassis and offered to weld on the new out riggers next weekend which is good. Means I need to get the rusted suspension bit out for him to weld tomorrow which should be fun.

My box of bushes is sitting in the corner sulking because I haven't fitted it yet.

The big news is that I fitted the new fuel tank today. not exactly challenging or big new except it is the first thing I have added to the car rather than removing.

So much to do, so little time!

Gary - i know i said I would try and get the car down to you next weekend but it is looking like the weekend after is more likely. I hope that isn't a problem for you but you look pretty busy with everything else you are doing.

[Nike55]

Getting there WCA!

Noticed you mentioned the engine is back together.. did you strip it down as far as the big bearings or was the bottom end ok...?

Good that you have someone available to do the welding too.

Looks like you'll be on the road soon then!

[WorldClassAccident]

Left the block in one piece but removed the sump (and chassis cross brace) so i could get a good look at things. This was when Sam the mechanic turned up so he looked too and said it all looked okay so we started putting it back together.

i am going for a rtide this morning and then this afternoon I am hoping to finish the engine and strip the front suspension to the remove the bracket that needs welding. Let's pray for no stuck nuts.

[Mister Towed]

. Let's pray for no stuck nuts.

Ooh, there's nothing worse than sticky nuts...

[Charman.tech]

which block did you use?

[WorldClassAccident]

All my own engine. I am keeping yours as a spare in case anything goes badly wrong.

[WorldClassAccident]

Stopped rebuilding the engine until I get a metal timing wheel. Hopefully I can order one this week so I can get on with the build next week when John has done the welding.

I have got the passenger side front suspension off and a mate is going to shot blast it during the week so I can rebuild it next weekend. I have all the bushings I think so hopefully this time next weekend I will have most the engine built and one side of the car bouncing correctly.

Currently it looks like this: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HuScCXgcBlk/T0p0SdIKsAI/AAAAAAAABv8/vZj_D1RR8EE/s640/2012-02-26%252015.52.07.jpg

Note the missing outrigger and front chassis strut. The steel is sitting ready so hopefully it will be fairly straight forward to weld.

[Nike55]

Can't get much more back to basics....

Verily it will be worthy to be called a completely refurbished 'down to the last nut and bolt' restoration.

So should all be up and running and on the road by April...

Kudos, dude. (As they might say elsewhere)

[WorldClassAccident]

April?!???!?!

What is wrong with the end of February? ;-)

Nut and bolts. Getting right in my tits with the socket set. All imperial bolts but sometimes metric fits best. The only big wrench I have has metric sockets so I have been using a baby socket set and a f00kin great lump of wood to move stuff.

Really pleased that I only resorted to the angle grinder to cut off one bolt.

I know I need to drill out the bolt that is left but what does that mean?

The thread is cut into the chassis so I need to make it clean enought ot get the new bolt in.

Please can I have some simple and clear instructions on how to get the bolt out without destroying the threads. Pictures a welcome

[Mister Towed]

Lots and lots of penetrating oil for a few days, then attack it with a 'screw extractor' set.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Damaged-Broken-Nut-Bolt-Screw-Remover-Removal-Puller-Extractor-Pull-Out-Set-New-/190597970702?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c60863b0e#ht_2223wt_698

That one's just an example, I'm not saying it's any good.

The brand we had in the tool stores on fast jet squadrons was called 'Easy Out'. Probably the most ironically named tool ever as they're a bu99er to use.

Sometimes the only way to get seized bolts out is to drill them out completely, then re-tap the hole to a larger bolt size or fit a helicoil thread repair.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/88pc-helicoil-type-thread-repair-kit-m6-m8-m10-inc-vat-/370560549120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5647214100#ht_1199wt_754

Again, I'm not saying that set would be any good, it's just an example of what's available.

Good luck!

[Nike55]

Lots and lots of penetrating oil - allow to soak or a day or two, Try a very gentle attempt to undo then lots and lots of penetrating oil and leave for a few days. Try a very gentle attempt to undo. (You get the idea)

If no luck dry the area thoroughly and taking all necessary precautions (bucket of water, sand, fire extinguisher, helper to keep an eye on things etc) carefully apply gentle heat to the area of the bolt. Then carefully try to undo. A few very light taps of (a very light) hammer might help.

If no luck proceed to drill out and use an extractor as Mr Towed above.

[WorldClassAccident]

Chassis almost finished and the passenger suspension stripped and prepped for new bushings.

Friend helped me out https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E16kxdG2bMk/T1z-174RFbI/AAAAAAAABy8/S7he4deSmj4/s1600/2012-03-10%252014.03.46.jpg

[WorldClassAccident]

A bit of progress. The engine is now closed. The chassis has it's chassis paint covering the POR14. The suspension bushes have p155ed me right off!

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-03-25

[Nike55]

Good progress WCA.

Suspension bushes always a challenge - getting the metal bit out ok with a hacksaw but have had to burn out the rubber 'outers' on other car in the past...

Re the carb. Did you have the fuel spigot 'tapped' to stop the spigot loosening off? Some carbs had a problem with this but not all. Wondered if you'd thought about this while you easy had access?

[WorldClassAccident]

Will check my spigot. The carb is off the engine I got from Charman.tech as the one off my engine was knackered.

[WorldClassAccident]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IYXAGxZQ2Fg/T3CLzrisZdI/AAAAAAAAB6w/DdMX1tmhxGg/s640/spigot.jpg

Is that my Spigot?
How can I tell if it is tapped?
How can I tap it if it isn't?

Thanks

[Nike55]

From my understanding it was the earlier carbs that were affected, the RSSOC website has details of the mod..

I haven't done mine yet. QRG at Kettering checked it and said it was ok - but I might do it just for peace of mind. Would hate to see the thing suddenly go up in flames for the sake of a fairly simple mod....that would ruin my day.

Edit.

Sorry just noticed your comments under the photo. Yes that's the spigot but that's a different carb to mine although I guess any spigot of dissimilar metal to the carb could be a risk. The problem carb was the 38DGAS, but also the 40DFA could be concerned too

Here's a link on RSSOC - it's on the SE5 Forum under 'What caused some fires in early SE5's', posted Wed 8 Feb, by 'landsurveyor'.

http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13585

[WorldClassAccident]

I thought I would do a quick update as I haven’t posted anything on this thread for a while. Unfortunately I have lost the cable that connects my phone to the laptop so I will be trying another way to get photos posted soon. Anyway, after the initial reasonable progress things have slowed down. Partly because I have been busy creating and building the Southampton Bike Park but mainly because I ran out of money for the next few bits I need: brake lines, wiring loom and the body. While waiting to become rich I have managed a few bits and bobs.
I decided to strip the rear drum brakes to get them ready for when I have the brake pipes and was in for a bit of a surprise. The passenger side was a bit knackered but the driver’s side was missing altogether. I am now looking for new brakes for the rear but think the bloke I bought the car from can help me out as I will explain later.

I then moved to the front brakes and discovered the pistons were seized. A quick Google later and I knew that I simply placed the air compressor nozzle over the brake pipe fitting and the pistons would slide out. Yeah right! If you ever do this, make sure you put a piece of wood where the brake disc would be. Mine went seized, seized, seized, BANG as one piston came free. I then had to clamp that one back in place while trying to free the others. Each of the front callipers has three pistons and each piston was seized and badly corroded when I got it out. I knew that the bloke I bought the car from had recently bought a few rover P6’s and they used the same callipers so went to see him.

That was a good idea. He had a replacement brake master cylinder, several brake callipers I could try and salvage pistons from and the possibility of a rear suspension piece from a SE6 to replace the old small one I have. This small suspension bit I have is from the early suspension set up and you cannot get bushes for it. Hopefully the later piece will be able to simply replace the one I have. Once the brake bits have been identified and the brake cylinder refurb kits have been sorted I will wander over with some tools to see what I can salvage.

While removing the old brake flexy from one of the front wheels the metal bracket fell off. This is a right swine as I don’t have access to a welding kit myself. I will be visiting a friend when I can find someone who will help. I am thinking of saving up a few welding jobs as I identify them to make it worth firing up the welder.

I removed the split rubber gaiters from the steering and was pleased by the state of the joints. Hopefully I can just stick new gaiters on.

I decided to clean up the gearbox housing a bit so it is now a shiny silver. While I was at it, I took the gear stick and change mechanism off. I cleaned them up and greased what needed greasing. There were none of the rubber bushings so it was a clattering loose affair. I couldn’t get any new bushings had a bright idea, I cut a short length of rubber fuel pipe and this turned out to be just the right diameter to act as a bushing. The gerneal clean, grease and replacement bushings made things a lot better and now I can select all 4 forward gears plus reverse which was never there previously.

I think this brings me up to date. I have a stag weekend over the bank holiday (yes, I know I am too old for that stuff) so will not get any work done on the car for a while and won’t be able to make Stoneliegh. I will try not to leave it so long next time and hope to buy the brake lines for the weekend after the Bank Holiday.

[WorldClassAccident]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b3rlkAlElAU/T5-uY0GgowI/AAAAAAAACBs/PSvNVJNcstc/s400/2012-04-22%252015.45.45.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DMG81bjFdcQ/T5-ubyLEkyI/AAAAAAAACB0/VPthbrbCQxY/s400/2012-04-22%252015.46.07.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sW8u7EY5_lk/T5-uTHAcWKI/AAAAAAAACBc/eV8iyXKU_JY/s400/2012-04-22%252016.02.54.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TIi1E14NIzY/T5-tveevOKI/AAAAAAAAB_0/-8mlt0RGsw0/s400/2012-04-22%252016.43.13.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dkX5go22rL4/T5-uIVAYuYI/AAAAAAAACA8/2uhrn-vDOII/s400/2012-04-29%252010.04.15.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-440tsptO9o8/T5-t9STP5qI/AAAAAAAACAc/BWPlsJ5pdGw/s400/2012-04-29%252010.04.53.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Gj_vM_7vACs/T5-t3wL2IWI/AAAAAAAACAM/5i2PtM_cFIU/s400/2012-04-29%252013.07.11.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A5aWwUTCac8/T5-tN_qb5II/AAAAAAAAB-U/QRbMIxRu5bQ/s400/2012-04-29%252014.28.32.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9YDCtwWDZWQ/T5-tKQdKk9I/AAAAAAAAB-M/Se8GOU1ka6w/s400/2012-04-29%252014.31.08.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HEiMkZiTy2E/T5-5eChI6ZI/AAAAAAAACCc/h_hRwYTE9RQ/s912/2012-05-01%252011.21.16.jpg

[garyh]

I like the eeriness of the misty photos, was you up with the mist? Treat yourself to stainless steel pistons. Carry on the good work.

[WorldClassAccident]

Misty picture is a special filter you apply to the camera lens. It is a mixture of oil, grease, dirt blood, sweat and tears.

[garyh]

That was a good idea for the bush. On the photo with the G cramp, is that how you loosened the piston? What have you done about the Spigot? Are you tapping it?

[WorldClassAccident]

Haven't touched the carbs. I have decided to get the brakes sorted first.

I have got all but one of the suspension bushings sorted. I need to get a new bit to fix the last and then the car can roll. I have brake lines, pistons, flexis and shoes coming in to stop the car rolling.

Fuel and electrics next to make it move and then the body. Hopefully accelerated progress again over the next couple of months

[garyh]

WCA, i know its only 9 days since your last post but i just wondered if you have 'accelerated' yet...

[WorldClassAccident]

A load ofbrake pipe arrived yesterday. The rubber gaitor for the steering joints arrived today. I plan progress over the weekend if I can shift this flu.

[garyh]

Touch wood, you'll get loads done? i will look out for your 'Posts'

[WorldClassAccident]

Good
Broken brake mount now riveted and fixed.
One Gaitor fitted

Bad
Can't release the track end fitting to undo the bolt and get the other gaiter on.
Can get the bushings into the lower wishbones to allow me to refit the hub
Flu still here in force

Conculsion
Sleep for a while and look at it again later

[garyh]

Check

[WorldClassAccident]

Good
Track end fitting removed
Other Gaitor fitted
Bushings fitted
Remaining front hub fitted

Bad
I copper slipped the track end to stop it seizing again and now it just spins when I turn the bolt. There is nothing on the other side to grip to stop it turning - Suggestions please
Still dying of flu

Conclusion
Happy with progress today.
Will get a pipe bender tomorrow and some cheap copper to practise with before trying it on the good stuff.
Try and source the clips that hold the brake pipe to the chassis - Suggestions please?
See if the guy who was sourcing me the replacement / reconditionaed brake bits has managed yet.
Time to sleep again

[andrewhush]

Good
Track end fitting removed
Other Gaitor fitted
Bushings fitted
Remaining front hub fitted

Bad
I copper slipped the track end to stop it seizing again and now it just spins when I turn the bolt. There is nothing on the other side to grip to stop it turning - Suggestions please
Still dying of flu

Conclusion
Happy with progress today.
Will get a pipe bender tomorrow and some cheap copper to practise with before trying it on the good stuff.
Try and source the clips that hold the brake pipe to the chassis - Suggestions please?
See if the guy who was sourcing me the replacement / reconditionaed brake bits has managed yet.
Time to sleep again
Use a plain nut to pull the joint together tightly then carefully remove that nut and replace with the new nylock nut. Tighten slowly until the nut bottoms out and then tighten fully.

[WorldClassAccident]

Plain nut still spins the joint :-(

[cbjroms]

Put some weight onto track rod end (eg get someone to stand on it) to force the taper into its socket whilst you tighten the nut.

Chris

[Psycho pops]

Brake pipe clips here as featured in useful suppliers thread...

http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Brake_and_Fuel_Hardware.html

Cheers pops

[WorldClassAccident]

Still dying of flu and stomach cramps but between the bed and the toilet trips I have managed a couple of bits.

Broken brake bit. The rivet was holding it firm so I am not sure if the solder was really necessary or indeed adds anything. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-52pF8E_fF6Y/T69yH0R0GsI/AAAAAAAACDk/7VLiTCcH01A/s912/2012-05-11%252013.59.17.jpg


Gaitors as mentioned earlier:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FVmwpBS3obQ/T69yHwHTDoI/AAAAAAAACDk/gU97RujaG2o/s912/2012-05-11%252013.52.39.jpg

My shiny new brake pipes.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qWMxajJZlDU/T69yHvS83pI/AAAAAAAACDk/Z_kTGl5quro/s912/2012-05-12%252010.06.20.jpg

As I have never worked with brake pipes of pipe benders I decided to spend a tenner and get some copper pipe to practice with rather than risking the set with all the fittings on.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aDOrlJDQ-Po/T69yJznC6OI/AAAAAAAACDk/lp1bLgLZF_o/s912/2012-05-12%252010.06.40.jpg

Look, I can do corners and spirals
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q_5UYgU7YgU/T69yKnZ4LUI/AAAAAAAACDk/75cvpMMJisY/s912/2012-05-12%252010.19.47.jpg

top = expensive bit not to be cocked up
middle = Old bit which is bent and broken
bottom = my cheap practice copper
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FUqjeV0au_s/T69yK-SdqxI/AAAAAAAACDk/4Nej-hXtQhw/s912/2012-05-12%252010.26.36.jpg


top = expensive bit not to be cocked up
middle = Old bit which is bent and broken
bottom = my attempt in copper which fits!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oJgDBA_uL3w/T69yLiQUYdI/AAAAAAAACDk/CXegZ4LhTG8/s912/2012-05-12%252013.56.59.jpg

[Mister Towed]

Good effort! Must take our hats off to the engineering genius who felt an aluminium rivet with some solder leached round it was a suitable fix for a broken brake bracket. :scared:

[WorldClassAccident]

It is just a holding bracket. It takes no force. What could possibly go wrong?

[Viatron]

Personally I would put another rivet in the corner to stop the bracket turning on the centre rivet but otherwise it's fine, it takes no force and have done the same on many race cars and never had an issue.

[WorldClassAccident]

Fair point Viatron. I was thinking the solder would stop the spinning but I I have the hub off or access to it with a drill I will pop another rivit in.

[WorldClassAccident]

Right - this weekend should be expensive. I found some cash down the back of the sofa to allow me to progress (or at least order the bits). The list so far:

Deposit to Gary for the body
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel SenderFuel Pipe
Brake Masters
Brake Servo
Brake Pistons
Rear Brake (1 side only)
Rear Brake shoes
Clutch Master
Brake Pipe clips
Brake Flexis
Brake Fluid
Wiring Loom
Battery
Electronic ingnition thingy ( The dizzy on the Essex is known not to be great)
Gear and Rear Diff Oil

That should get me enough to keep going. Hopefully at the end of it I will have a running engine and working brakes.

[Nike55]

..what are you going to be doing after breakfast then?

[WorldClassAccident]

Crying onto my empty wallet

[WorldClassAccident]

Crying into my empty wallet

[WorldClassAccident]

Twice

;-)

[Nike55]

...ah the pain.

...If you do happen to bump into Gary please say 'hello' from me... ;)

[WorldClassAccident]

We that is the deposit paid on the body. Just got to get the rest of the car ready to receive it.

The flag blue Sammio looked cracking and it was good to see how much the other G46 had moved on. helped me work out what I need to do

[Nike55]

Yes, the more G46's around the better as they will all be a little bit different and may generate ideas and also benefit others and help avoid a few pitfalls or expensive mistakes along the way.

[WorldClassAccident]

I have decided to go with round wheel arches and twin humps. I have only seen the photos of the Sammio with twin humps which looked good. I think the bigger G46 will look even better.

Suddenly realised how much I have to do to the chassis first. Main bits are brakes, fuel, electrics and find a replacement bit for the suspension. Loads of time given 1 day a week where I can actually work on the car and that normally gets interrupted.

[Nike55]

..so you have gone over to the Dark Side and plumped for the accursed 'Round Wheel Arches'

Only one word to sum this up.....









.................................................. SPLITTER!!!!!

[Patton]

Are you the judean peoples front, "F*&% OFF" splitters "to join the PFJ you have to really hate the romans"

[Charman.tech]

WCA welcome to the dark side your new handle should be WCA-RWA we were scorned by the flat earth society but the earth did turn out to be round!!

[Mister Towed]

Are you the judean peoples front, "F*&% OFF" splitters "to join the PFJ you have to really hate the romans"

Sorry to highjack the thread, but my favourite line in that iconic film is delivered when all the various factions are fighting each other in the sewer:

Brian, delivered with frustrated angst - "Brothers, we should be struggling together!"

Anon, sounds exerted - " We are struggling together!"

[mulberry]

pat wer ya bin

[WorldClassAccident]

WCA = What, Curved Arches?!?

Charman - Round arches and Twin humps. My niche is more niche that yours is ;-)

[Charman.tech]

WCA = What, Curved Arches?!?

Charman - Round arches and Twin humps. My niche is more niche that yours is ;-)

Austin Sprites RWA = round wheel arch

I can't wait to see the twin hump G46 I think it going to look the nuts, when do you expect to get the body?

[Welsh 46r]

As another 46 builder i thought i'd say hello , also depending what suspension parts you require i have found queensbury road garage very good with parts arriving next day

[WorldClassAccident]

Wife just rang to say some car stuff has arrived. Don't know what it is yet and won't be back from london before 8. Long afternoon of wondering for me.

[Viatron]

good god man get her to open it all and send you pics!!!

[froggyman]

Wife just rang to say some car stuff has arrived. Don't know what it is yet and won't be back from london before 8. Long afternoon of wondering for me.

Long night of wondering for us too!!!!!:icon_rolleyes:

[WorldClassAccident]

Fuel pump, fuel filter/pressure regulator, brake pipe clips.

Brake flexis have been cancelled and reordered after waiting three weeks and now due in a couple of days.

Wireing loom due towards the end of next week.

Hopefully pick up the brake and clutch masters and the reconned servo on Saturday.

Need to chat to the guy providing these about nicking a bit of the suspension of the SE6 he has parked in the field. If I get that then I can refit the rest of the rear suspension and get the fuel tank fitted.

When the flexies arrive I will finish bending the brake lines now that I have clips to fix them to the chassis.

Need to helicoil one bolt hole in the front of the chassis to refix the anti roll bar.

A few other things in life apparently take priority according to the boss:

Get the fuel solinoid replaced on my pickup.
Repair / Replace the knackered alternator on the pickup.
Fix/replace the brakes on one of my mountain bikes after last weekends big crash.
Fix the punctures on another of the mountain bikes and respoke/rebuild the damaged wheel (another slight crash)
Sort out the rattly brake cover on the Merc
See my god daughter do her swimming competition.
Remove the broken shower, remove the shower cubicle and then replaster and redecorate the bedroom.
Beat the guy I crashed out against in last weeks bike race.
Take the wife to the theatre

[AndyP57]

This is one of the wonderful things about this stage of a Sammio build... It's kind of like having an extended Xmas with 'presents' arriving at regular intervals :eusa_clap:

[froggyman]

This is one of the wonderful things about this stage of a Sammio build... It's kind of like having an extended Xmas with 'presents' arriving at regular intervals :eusa_clap:
Unfortunately he's grounded at the moment so he can only look at them and not play with them!!!!:eusa_boohoo:

[WorldClassAccident]

I think she is trying to sabotage me. I need to make progress though a the body arrives soon

[Viatron]

Do something terrible so she wont talk to you for a couple of weeks, then you can do what you like, i unintentionally achieve this regularly!

[WorldClassAccident]

Lots of update when I sober up.

EDIT - How am I awa\ke at 7:30am?

There is my blog with pictures and story : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-06-04

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FVmwpBS3obQ/T69yHwHTDoI/AAAAAAAACDk/gU97RujaG2o/s400/2012-05-11%252013.52.39.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qWMxajJZlDU/T69yHvS83pI/AAAAAAAACDk/Z_kTGl5quro/s400/2012-05-12%252010.06.20.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oJgDBA_uL3w/T69yLiQUYdI/AAAAAAAACDk/CXegZ4LhTG8/s400/2012-05-12%252013.56.59.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dVrBcpNEd3o/T8y6prq6-UI/AAAAAAAACD8/4p0h73llrzg/s400/2012-05-29%252019.27.51.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kxFsLQ-Vq48/T8y6sPr9J0I/AAAAAAAACEM/rD4UFVGONVM/s400/2012-05-29%252019.33.24.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HVjw9MYtNxI/T8y6xOwFdII/AAAAAAAACE8/uOJoIpfIfgo/s400/2012-06-03%252009.43.42.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WFqw7tStkzE/T8y7Ekmm2AI/AAAAAAAACHk/EKR6DQImKtk/s400/2012-06-04%252012.18.17.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kWpj8KRlmmY/T8y64Jd9eoI/AAAAAAAACFw/ayU60SXoE_g/s400/2012-06-03%252016.10.37.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cm_Soya9PVI/T8y665R3ubI/AAAAAAAACGI/LT5xV97SgJM/s400/2012-06-03%252016.35.15.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hfCAKsVGAls/T8y7FIRN3cI/AAAAAAAACHo/8rJjb0Tat1I/s400/2012-06-04%252013.27.10.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QDZNKDj2U6M/T8y7AZ_4KpI/AAAAAAAACG4/TtesnqknRRE/s400/2012-06-03%252017.07.02.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NFFIil2Gqxs/T8y7HrlG1bI/AAAAAAAACII/h4oQqO51id8/s400/2012-06-04%252014.09.37.jpg

[WorldClassAccident]

I borrowed a rear suspension bit from an SE6 so I could fit the only size of bushing available. This allowed me to get the rear suspension back together. It was worth busting my knuckles stood in the rain nicking it off an upturned SE6.

Once the suspension was reconstructed I could fit the fuel tank and then run the fuel line forward, fit the new electric fuel pump, fit the fuel regulator, filter and reach the carb.

At this point I hit a snag. I connected the fuel pipe to the little brass(?) tube. I then realised I hadn't slipped the fuel pipe clip on so pulled the pipe to remove it and the pipe pulled free but with the brass tube pulled out of the carb.

A bit of Googling and it turns out the early carbs did this but normally when they got warm and sprayed petrol over the engine. There were quite a number of car fires on the early Essex engines. apparently the solution is to drill and fit a self tapping screw to hold the brass pipe in place. One for tomorrow.

Having spent the whole day down the garage I was sure there was more to type.

Wiring loom has arrived so will spend this evening staring at unfathomable diagrams and pretty coloured wires on the living room floor.

[WorldClassAccident]

Updated the build site with general progress. i am getting lazy and only updating it about once a month now although I haven't been making great progress because of the rest of my life getting in the way.

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-07-02

I am quite pleased with the before and after pictures of the tacho (ignore the camera shake if you can)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YJvHep88UQQ/T_Kt4Sb_A2I/AAAAAAAACTc/_hOuituikQ0/s400/18%25202012-07-02%252016.07.08.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iPtbc_XSK74/T_Kt7_dj3uI/AAAAAAAACT0/coepJhosic8/s400/20%25202012-07-02%252016.51.30.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LwW6XPVTXVs/T_Kt4_CXdMI/AAAAAAAACTk/QjpRtX0bTao/s400/19%25202012-07-02%252016.07.15.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PeULQVEu3Xw/T_Kt8Co_WsI/AAAAAAAACT4/MHGbapMSjmg/s400/21%25202012-07-02%252016.54.56.jpg

Gary - If you read this can you PM or email me please. I have nearly fixed my truck so hopefully I will be able to get down to you in the next could of weeks to pick up the body. I just want to know which weekend works best for you. Cheers

[garyh]

I won't ask about the camera shake, you're obviously chugged with how well the cleaning went!:whoo:

[WorldClassAccident]

I was inspired to clean when I saw the price of a new set of Smiths dials!!!

I also like the way the speedo and tacho contain the ignition, main been and trafficator lights. much less mess on the finished dashboard and every car should be fitted with Trafficators.

[garyh]

Yep, it keeps it simple. What i saw on one old car, is having the tach on it own on the passenger side fitted into a pod just below dash? I may do that for effect. I won't be chasing the revs to change gear.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w457/garyhalfacre/Screenshot2012-03-09at152754.png

[froggyman]

'I haven't been making great progress because of the rest of my life getting in the way.WorldClassAccident

I know the feeling which is why I have only removed the sold parts from my donor and not started in earnest. At the moment I am working my way through a long list of DIY jobs. My fault for buying a property to extend and restore instead of one which would have allowed me to get straight into the garage and concentrate on hobbies. At the moment other peoples builds are motivating me to get things finished.


Gary h: I think thats a speedo with trip and mileometer for the navigator. Racers normally have the rev counter in front of them and the speedo to one side as the revs their pulling is more important to monitor than the speed they are travelling. Although in your picture they look as they are both speedos.

[WorldClassAccident]

I think they stuck the rev counter down there as part of the modernisation so they didn't have to change the original dial. Adds functionality but is easily reversible when they come to sell.

[garyh]

Comprondez, i understand. Might still do it, anyway.

[MoriniMan]

Yep, it keeps it simple. What i saw on one old car, is having the tach on it own on the passenger side fitted into a pod just below dash? I may do that for effect. I won't be chasing the revs to change gear.

You've got it the wrong way round.

The tach is in the instrument cluster.

For road use a speedo with odometer and trip counter has been fitted under the passenger side dash.

[WorldClassAccident]

Full update here : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-07-08

Basically a bit of an engine rebuild, a bit of a fire and a bit of painting.

I painted the bottom of the old Scimitar tub with black rubber to hide the white plastic and possibly offer sound proofing not rust proofing.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ee5W_LHWmWI/T_qfK4XuryI/AAAAAAAACaE/USovbxTnJvo/s640/2012-07-08%252016.11.03.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-STged7l2oOA/T_qfNA7f1dI/AAAAAAAACac/_UKJ8Xyf_X8/s640/2012-07-08%252016.26.36.jpg

I am now thinking of coating the inside with a colour to get rid of the hideous green but that brings back the "What Colour" dilema...

[Nike55]

Full update here : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-07-08

I painted the bottom of the old Scimitar tub with black rubber to hide the white plastic and possibly offer sound proofing not rust proofing.

I am now thinking of coating the inside with a colour to get rid of the hideous green but that brings back the "What Colour" dilema...

Zinc Chromate Green! :plane:

Seriously though it is a vexing question. I guess it depends on your taste and the 'style' of the car.

If replicating an old 1950's car and the external colours is BRG/Ecurie Ecosse Blue/Burgundy/Red/Yellow then inside would perhaps look better with a neutral Aluminium/Silver and / or Black.

If a modern 'fusion' look then anything goes: Porsche Lime Green and Tangerine interior perhaps....:puke:

[WorldClassAccident]

My current thinking is deep burgundy bodywork with predominantly light wood and tan leather interior. Probably body coloured doors with tan leather caps and the floor and foot wells black.

https://picasaweb.google.com/115660383436295169415/G46#5762431336864275330

Although having seen the alu finish on this I am sorely tempted..

http://www.collectioncar.com/files/3177-1322472685-6.JPG

[Nike55]

The 'engine turned' alloy dash was 'the thing' in the early '30's (Bugatti etc) and was part of the Art Deco scene - it works better on some cars than others (IMHO).

[WorldClassAccident]

I was thinking more of the bare metal doors and floors. The dashboard is a bit OTT for my tastes

[Mister Towed]

Although having seen the alu finish on this I am sorely tempted..


Yep, I like the aluminium panelled interior too. And the silver bodywork. The dash looks a bit, well, kit car to me though...

[WorldClassAccident]

Gary warned me that silver can be a git to spray. Apparently it is sensitive to direction of application.

Agree about the dash, a bit Pebble Beach show car, although I would still find space on the drive if I was given it.

[Mister Towed]

Gary warned me that silver can be a git to spray. Apparently it is sensitive to direction of application.


Hmm, at Stoneleigh Mike said silver takes the most prep as it shows every defect. Bearing in mind I've never sprayed anything other than with rattle cans before I thought 'how hard can it be?' Thing is, if anyone points out defects in my paint finish (which there will be) I'll just show them a picture of that C Type Jag cockpit and point out that these cars were built to race, not show and shine.

[Mister Towed]

Agree about the dash, a bit Pebble Beach show car, although I would still find space on the drive if I was given it.

I'd have a struggle of conscience if I was given the 328 as a gift - OK, it's a beautiful car, but I'd have to hide it in the garage as it's a BMW and I don't want my neighbours to think I'm a w:(nker.

[oxford1360]

If you want to go for the aluminium-bodied racer style look you can always spray two coats of silver that are different shades (slightly darker one underneath). Then go at it with some wire wool and it will look like the BMW above, and you don't have to worry about imperfections in the body because they were caused when Phil Hill nudged your father at Sebring in '59.

Pic of Phil below. Unfortunately, the photographer did not develop the rolls with the pics of the Sammio as they were lost in a pit fire later that day.
http://www.jimmygibsonphotographer.com/shop/view/72

Yes, I do write fiction in my spare time.

[Nike55]

If you want to go for the aluminium-bodied racer style look you can always spray two coats of silver that are different shades (slightly darker one underneath). Then go at it with some wire wool and it will look like the BMW above, and you don't have to worry about imperfections in the body because they were caused when Phil Hill nudged your father at Sebring in '59.

Pic of Phil below. Unfortunately, the photographer did not develop the rolls with the pics of the Sammio as they were lost in a pit fire later that day.
http://www.jimmygibsonphotographer.com/shop/view/72

Yes, I do write fiction in my spare time.

You could of course bash out an alloy body....

I remember my father telling me that he was near the pits the day of the fire and noticed the photographers bag alight. He said that a carelessly discarded Woodbine had ignited a spirit soaked rag in the pocket of a passing Italian mechanic, who was returning to the pits after lunch, with a large salami. Upon noticing the build up of heat, shouts of panic and the smell he hurriedly removed his overalls (causing some embarrassment to the ladies present) and discarded these next to the photographers film stock, causing ignition of the the cellulose film.

My father said he was glad my mother had not been present as she would have been shocked at the singeing of the mechanics salami. More importantly he said the Sammio Spyders were pushed clear but the two prototype G46 models that were there for testing (which on the track had shown great promise over the Jaguar, Aston Martin and Ferrari entrants) were caught in the conflagration. The mechanics had used a Pyrene extinguisher in an effort to save the cars but for some reason this made things worse.

Although the cars were almost completely destroyed a small piece of bodywork survived and rumours spread that it was not aluminium or magnesium as suspected but some newer, thinner 'Bakelite' type material.

A search for photographs of the G46 prototypes running on the circuit continues but as there were only a small number of professional photographers present on the day it is possible that images may be obtained from members of the public and an appeal will be made via the programme at the next Holton Heath circuit race meeting.

Stop Press: There have been rumours that Sammio G46 cars had been seen in action on the Continent and had been raced for some time at different circuits, under assumed names, in order to complete testing prior to a possible Le Man entry in the future. The lack of badging on these mysterious cars has no doubt made it easier for the entrants, who are believed to be Ex-works.

[oxford1360]

My grandmother still talks about the "singeing of the mechanic's salami". She kept in touch with him for years.

[WorldClassAccident]

Slow day in the office?

[davecymru]

you lot have WAY too much free time! :)

[Mister Towed]

If you want to go for the aluminium-bodied racer style look you can always spray two coats of silver that are different shades (slightly darker one underneath). Then go at it with some wire wool and it will look like the BMW above...

It could end up looking like fifty shades of grey though and need leather harnesses instead of nylon... :tape2:

[Nike55]

you lot have WAY too much free time! :)

Yep, sadly (?), out of work since December 2011 and awaiting G46. Been a little bit of a delay but hope to get my hands on the conversion soon.

In the meantime will start rebuilding my Honda Blackbird which I wrote off on Saturday on the way back from Fairford. As soon as the bruising goes down...

[Nike55]

It could end up looking like fifty shades of grey though and need leather harnesses instead of nylon... :tape2:

But what would a leather harness do to your Salami though?

[WorldClassAccident]

Woo Hoo! Picked up my body and frame today!

The guys at Tribute Automotive who did the body were great. Friendly, helpful and didn't complain when I turned up two hours early to watch and learn.

Just finished the mountain bike event so am going down the garage to play.

Photos later today

[GazDavies]

I will look forward to seeing your progress (lots of pics please). The twin humps look very good, much better than I had expected!

[WorldClassAccident]

Busy day.

Photos and story here : https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-08-25

I have the first G46 on the road but not sure I am happy about the body alignment.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m0_g4_sy6Kk/UDkPk5hqkMI/AAAAAAAACp8/vwe6v1Jp9QI/s400/2012-08-25%252012.05.43.jpg

[AndyP57]

And it DOES fit on a pickup ..... Just :biggrin:

[Nike55]

Best wishes and good luck with your new toy...

(Don't forget the respirator...)

[WorldClassAccident]

Respirator and goggles. the fan is just to blow the worse of the dust out of the garage and I use my air gun on the compressor to clear the rest off from time to time. I have seen the state that garages can get into if you don't keep the dust under control.

I need to get a proper sander though. The Black and Decker mouse sander works fine but I spend more time clearing or replacing the sandpaper than actually sanding it, plus velcro sanding pads are an expensive way to do it.

Most of the air powered ones I have seen are orbital which leaves me with fears of circular marks all over the body. Tribute had proper long rubber sanding sleds but the y were hand powered which leaves me with fear of hard work. I don't mind hand finishing but there is a lot of sanding and filling to be done first.

[WorldClassAccident]

Lots of time wasted today with the family doing picnics by the sea instead of sweating inside the garage. More progress pictures tomorrow including my special long bed hand sanding sled. Works a treat. Idea 'borrowed' from Tribute Automotive.

[Mister Towed]

my special long bed hand sanding sled.

I just googled that and got twenty nine million pages of porn... :nono:

[WorldClassAccident]

I just googled that and got twenty nine million pages of porn...

3rd picture, I am the bloke second on the right

[WorldClassAccident]

Measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once, measure twice, cut once

Okay, so the sides of the frame sit on the plastic edges of the door shut, not on top of the actual chassis.

what kind of pillock would cut the plastic away to let them sit flush on the chassis before realising there is a sodding great chassi beam stopping the frame from sitting properly.

Thanks for the explanation Gary and thanks for answering my calls and PMs quickly and clearly.

Top service so far for the whole process so far. Body delivered when promised despite me delaying on the deposit and asking for changed delivery dates. Help people when I turned up to collect the car a couple of hours early. Stupid questions answered promptly and clearly without any giggling at me.

thanks

[Nike55]

Ah, the joys of DIY car building....

Looking forward to next instalment... ;)

(I'm learning a lot from this thread)

[WorldClassAccident]

I have made my first sheet of fibre glass.

I think I may have made it a bit harder or stronger than necessary. It was harder to cut than the stuff from Scimitar and the G46 and the Lotus door.

At least I know a bit more about what I am doing. Photos to follow when I get the extra fibre glass off my fingers.

[Mister Towed]

Ha ha. I had the same problem - the resin's stickier than a sticky thing with a special reason to be sticky. Worth the effort doing it yourself though. :bounce:

[WorldClassAccident]

Lost my cable thingy to tie the camera to the computer.

Anyway, frame fitted. Bits of the body sanded but loads more to do.

Grey pipe lagging cut in half makes a great sanding sled.

Ho=nest labour is well overrated. Give me business consultancy and staff instead of hand sanding any day!

Still smiling though

[WorldClassAccident]

Brake Servo is mounted on the bit above the front suspension and fouls the bonnet. I haven't connected it to the brake system or clutch yet so I can resite it but i have a question.

It is mounted on a bracket that tilts it back about 30 degrees rather than being horizontal. This looks like it is a design choice rather than an accident.

Does this mean I should mount it at the same angle when I re-site it?

If it has to stay at the same angle that severely restricts where I can put it.

Gary - where is the servo on the cars you have done? From memory, your later 5a's have a different set up anyway so probably not too relevent but any advice welcome.

[WorldClassAccident]

Update from the weekend with pictures of my mistake, I mean customisation.

https://sites.google.com/site/g46wca/2012-08-27

[Mister Towed]

I've fitted an aftermarket brake servo to my Spyder: it came with instructions that said it MUST be fitted using the angled mounting bracket for it to function properly. It also recommended a non-return valve in the vacuum take off and a hand formed 'U' bend to trap petrol in the vacuum hose.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z371/dmonebillion/002-42.jpg

Hope that helps. :)

[WorldClassAccident]

Frame on and body offered up.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6doSXpm5mEw/UD3QwbaBzwI/AAAAAAAACxE/nucjFphMwhw/s640/2012-08-29%252008.59.05.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nUm3jpX_9HE/UD3Qwo4MyGI/AAAAAAAACxI/jIX4ogTwCuE/s640/2012-08-29%252009.08.31.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FttCLl-Ajcg/UD3QwuQxL7I/AAAAAAAACxM/C99V8pK8IkQ/s640/2012-08-29%252009.08.47.jpg

Looks like the bonnet fits better now I have the rear of the body to align it to properly which is good news.

Just a bit of filler and sanding and it is ready to go!!

[davecymru]

All this talk of work progressing on G46 kits is starting to make me feel a bit light headed, i may need to go for a sit down.

Next things you know people will be claiming that they're driving them on the roads. Madness you hear me, sheer madness!

:)

[WorldClassAccident]

If you look to the right of the last picture you can see what has been slowing my progress. Hic!

[davecymru]

Don't tease, I had to bin 5 gallons of homebrew cider the other week as my pressure barrel has a slight leak and killed me fizz :(

[WorldClassAccident]

Body loosely fitted and now I need to think about hinges. Damn you sneaky Sammios without doors!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nUm3jpX_9HE/UD3Qwo4MyGI/AAAAAAAACxI/jIX4ogTwCuE/s640/2012-08-29%252009.08.31.jpg

[Nike55]

Body loosely fitted and now I need to think about hinges. Damn you sneaky Sammios without doors!

...and the choices are legion.

Were you thinking of knobbly, external hinges like a C-type or going smooth like a DBR2?

[WorldClassAccident]

My 'current' thinking is a side hinged boot lid.

Doors are more problematic. I would like hidden hinges rather than external ones but they are much harder to fit properly apparently.

I also need to source the hinges and the door catch. I was thinking of just a sprung bolt with a wire passing through the door pocket to pull it open.

[Nike55]

My 'current' thinking is a side hinged boot lid.

Doors are more problematic. I would like hidden hinges rather than external ones but they are much harder to fit properly apparently.

I also need to source the hinges and the door catch. I was thinking of just a sprung bolt with a wire passing through the door pocket to pull it open.

There is no reason not to keep it simple.

I can't really comment as I've not made my mind up yet on hatches, hinges, or locks, nor tried anything out.

I've never tried to fit a new body with hinges - others have done it 'straight off the bat' with little or no experience, so how hard can it be...? (famous last words). I guess if one fouls up its a 'simple' case of glassing over the disaster area and trying again?

I haven't started looking for guides on car door internal hinge fitting but will have a look later. I'm sure they are out there, if not on this site..

I think Lancelot favours this type of simple door lock for his creations:-

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/images/Product/medium/1150.jpg

...which are very similar to Series Land Rovers.

You are in the unenviable position of being a bit of trailblazer on the 'G46' and I continue to look forward to your choices and experimentation with interest!

[Paul L]

... now I need to think about hinges. Damn you sneaky Sammios without doors!...

And so it was that a bond was formed between the G46 & Cordite builders...

:icon_wink:

I am using Classic Mini external door handles on my Cordite:

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p306/TT_Paul_L/DSCF7238.jpg

And a very basic door latch that AndyP57 picked up for me:

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff477/Andyp57/Sammio/P6160034.jpg

Looking into the rules about door latches I stumbled across this MOT site...
www.motuk.co.uk
Within the information section on door handles I found the following:

A lack of door handles because of original design characteristics or specialist modification is not a Reason for Rejection provided the door can be latched securely in the closed position.

So no problems there. :cool:

Next we have details of the door test itself:

Doors - Open and close the driver’s and passenger’s doors.
Check that:
a. each door latches securely in the closed position
b. the driver’s and front passenger doors can be opened from both inside and outside the vehicle

Check door hinges, catches and pillars for presence, security and condition.

I guess it is OK to stand outside the car & operate the door latch inside the car.
After all there is no roof and in an emergency you can simply climb in & out without using the doors.

Hope that helps & good luck with your build, Paul. :)

[Mister Towed]

I was once given a Citroen Dyane as a courtesy car (from a garage I never used again). I drove it home, then tried to get out. It had no internal door handles. You had to open the hinged side window and lean out to open the door. Magnifique!

[WorldClassAccident]

Paul-L - I was looking at the very same Mini hinges earlier! I still want to look at the possibility of hidden internal hinges before I decide though. Lots of head scratching and Googling to come.

That latch is almost exactly what I was planning to use. I would have a piece of wire secured to the front of the door and then threaded through the loop. The wire would be accessible through the door pocket. Pull the wire and the latch is released.

[chap68]

hi there where did you get these door latches ive been trying to find them? i gave gary at sammio the idea for mini mk1 door hinges i bought and supplied them to him on the first one at stonleigh which im building up!! thanks.

[Nike55]

I was once given a Citroen Dyane as a courtesy car (from a garage I never used again). I drove it home, then tried to get out. It had no internal door handles. You had to open the hinged side window and lean out to open the door. Magnifique!

- Simplifique!

[Nike55]

I am using Classic Mini external door handles on my Cordite:

Do you know if these were the same hinges used on the Cordite demo vehicle at Stonleigh?

[Mister Towed]

- Simplifique!

But somewhat oblique.

[Paul L]

hi there where did you get these door latches ive been trying to find them?
AndyP57 picked them up at a Kit Car Show, so he might have the contact details.

Do you know if these were the same hinges used on the Cordite demo vehicle at Stonleigh?
Yes they were, although I didn't know this at the time.
Earlier posts mentioned Jag hinges, but Gary did confirm he used these mini ones.

Hope that helps, Paul. :)

[WorldClassAccident]

The plan for today is to remount the frame on the body so that the rear is higher and the front is lower. This (hopefully) will allow the door sills on the shell to sit on the flat of the angle iron rather than floating above it. There may be some angle grinder action.

I am also working on a hidden hinge solution for the doors. I have got as far as the first scale model.

The red represents the body shell with the hole for the door.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lyQLsJ0g8-Y/UEMggiVZ67I/AAAAAAAAC1o/RKmTKfwoaIY/s912/2012-09-02%252009.58.20.jpg

The door fits into the hole
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-50UNHeFN8M8/UEMggjRTniI/AAAAAAAAC1w/LCt-LYkiQbw/s912/2012-09-02%252009.58.36.jpg

There is a carefully shaped hinge with the pivot point forward of the door and the hinge hidden within the shell.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fikU45xHKcU/UEMggYS36XI/AAAAAAAAC1s/xqfp8tB40CU/s912/2012-09-02%252009.59.25.jpg

This allows the door to pivot outwards and forwards to quite a wide angle without hitting the bodywork.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ki9Lv8ZY6ek/UEMgiWU2elI/AAAAAAAAC2A/L1qITPRtDo4/s912/2012-09-02%252009.59.46.jpg

Now I just need to work out how to make it out of something stronger than cardboard. The current plan is to have a single hinge as the doors are quite light and it makes alignment a whole lot easier. It does mean they need to be a bit stronger though.

Any recommendations for the material?

Current favourite is 18mm Ply glassed over with metal bushings at the hinge. This is for no reason other than I have some 18mm ply and a jigsaw to cut it to shape.

[lancelot link]

Nick,
On a Sammio 550 project , I used the Scimitar hinges as a hidden hinge...

I only used one per side but with the lightweight door it worked ok...as the G46 door is a lengthened 550 door , it should work out...

If you no longer have your hinges ...I have a pair down here....

Because it is a ''mono-hinge'' arrangement , the pins will need replacing most likely as you can't have any pin movement...

Your doors need to open outside of the body...so any hinge you make needs to throw the door out ( most hinges put the door into the front inner wing area of a car on opening....The Scimitar doesn't , it throws out.

If you are making your own , then it needs to be a question mark type shape to get the throw and the only way it will pivot correctly is if you get the pivot point as close to the corner of the A pillar as possible...the outside , back edge of it ...the hinge wants to be on the outside really , so you have to get as close to the outside with the pivot as you can.....does that make sense..?

[WorldClassAccident]

My hinges were completely rusted out so definitely interested in yours.

I have been playing with the shape of the hinges in cardboard to try and get the correct 'throw' but if the Scimi ones do it then that saves me a head ache. I guess replacing the pins isn't too big an issue.

Can you check that they will fit and if so I might be able to pick them up next week at some point.

A general question about fixing stuff to the shell. How is best to do it?

I am trying to work out how to fit a hinge to the side of the boot. I have a hinge, I have the body shell and I have to boot panel.

I could just stick a screw through the hinge and fibre glass as if fixing the hinge to a wooden door frame but that looks a bit flexy.

I could glass a strip of metal to the inside of the shell and the boot panel to provide a greater support area and then bolt through the fibre glass and the metal panel but that would leave a bolt head exposed on the outside.

Any other ideas?

[Charman.tech]

We have spent so much time trying to resolve a concealed hinge that we have decided to bond the doors shut and jump over the top using a grab handle and a D step on the door cill recessed into the bodywork. Perhaps you RAF chappies could help with that detail???????

In honesty getting a concealed door hinge to work would, we had hoped be part of the ongoing development work on the G46, alss that development work never took place and the development of making that work is just to big a job on a one off build saying that I like WCA's idea, good luck.

Also I should also say that surface mounted hinges do not work as a pair just act against each other on the curved face on the door.

We have started working on the car again with more body work development and will post some photos later in the week.

[WorldClassAccident]

The plan for today is to remount the frame on the body so that the rear is higher and the front is lower. This (hopefully) will allow the door sills on the shell to sit on the flat of the angle iron rather than floating above it. There may be some angle grinder action.

I love it when a plan comes together!

Front bracket lowered and re-enforced. Sharp corner 'softened' with the angle grinder.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1fskWd-SHcw/UENzR7JHMzI/AAAAAAAAC2w/rW1_a-LcPDs/s912/2012-09-02%252015.37.10.jpg

Sills no parallel with the chassis
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WoENiffUOBk/UENzSEgwUfI/AAAAAAAAC24/n02Ho80uGDE/s912/2012-09-02%252015.37.23.jpg

Novel interpretation of square on this bit of frame - must have been late when welding
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MFD58rXt2Zg/UENzSSlnkrI/AAAAAAAAC20/7XIdLhX-r7U/s912/2012-09-02%252015.37.33.jpg

But nothing you can't over come with a persuading stick and a few bits of packing
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qiSBE4rw5IM/UENzUYmrhPI/AAAAAAAAC3I/li1gHg5rbFM/s912/2012-09-02%252015.37.41.jpg

Next task is to create the rear boot. The current plan is for a ply wood floor tacked to the plastic base with more ply up the sides of the wheel arches and then a piece of ply bonded to the top of the shell.

This should result in a wood lined boot space hiding the glass fibre and any wiring. The side panels will be removable for access to the rear wiring loom. This should leave room for a front boot behind the seats and under the humps where the back seats used to be.

The vague blue line shows the approximate divider between the front and rear boots.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xZSj_Geh7PI/UENzUpBH6XI/AAAAAAAAC3M/PHHMfRlKrmg/s912/2012-09-02%252015.45.31.jpg

[lancelot link]

WCA ...The trouble with screwing into fibreglass to mount anything under stress is that the screw will move and flex and open up the hole.....its not too bad for light application but a hinge or bootklid will need bolting really...bonding in steel strips and drilling through or drilling and tapping is quite a nice way to do it...you can use strips of ply for bracing and creating inner mounting areas etc...if bolting through fibreglass or ply , we always recommend using nice wide 'penny' style washers where possible...if its something thats unlikely to need removing , a little blob of sikkoflex can't do any harm either...

I'll put the hinges to one side for you....My laser man has the pattern to cut some door plates I had made that will brace your door shut and have the square cut out for the Scimitar hinge as well....give me a few days and I will try and sort a set for you ....it will save you a few hours....

[WorldClassAccident]

Cheers Gary, I am learning a lot at the moment and one of the best things I have learnt is to take help when offered!

I am unlikely to make it down to you before next weekend to pick anything up so no need to rush.

Penny washers on every nut or bolt that touches the fibreglass - Tick
Look to the left corner near the black battery cable. Bracing plates at the front of the frame foir even more spreading of the load. And the bolt on the inside of the footwell also has a penny washer but you can't really see it.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WoENiffUOBk/UENzSEgwUfI/AAAAAAAAC24/n02Ho80uGDE/s912/2012-09-02%252015.37.23.jpg

[WorldClassAccident]

Okay! Which one of you has hidden the pulley wheel for my handbrake?

It has been sat on the corner of the work bench since I removed the body. I have just gone down to the garage to fit it and the pulley wheel has gone missing.

[Mister Towed]

Have you checked your other trousers?

[WorldClassAccident]

Yes, and behind the garage fridge and sauna

[WorldClassAccident]

I gave up trying to find the pulley wheel for the handbrake and made do with a bolt and a stack of penny washers. I go to the garage today to clear the empties up from the weekend ready to do the bottle bank trip and what do I find?

The pulley wheel. Sitting looking all innocent on the edge of the work bench EXACTLY where I put it when I took it off and EXACTLY where I looked for it when it went missing!

Now, do I go back under the car and replace the bolt and washer solution or not?

[garyh]

Would an MOT man have a go... at you, and fail it?

[WorldClassAccident]

Probably not but I will probably go and correct it as it is beginning to niggle.

[garyh]

anymore pics, its a bit quiet today.

[WorldClassAccident]

I will pop down now and take some. Partly to please you and partly to try and work out what to do next. I am waiting on some angle steel to fit to the sills where I 'over optimised' the cut point.

This means I can't fit the body properly.
This means I can't fit the interior wood work.
I also just remembered I was meant to call Gary as he offered to post me some door slam plates if I couldn't get down to collect them. Need them before I go to Cornwall of Saturday.
This means I can't fit the doors.
Awaiting the sizes of the Land Rover seats - this means I can try them in different positions to finalise the cabin design.

Basically lots of excuses why I am not making much progress. Anyway, off to take photos while there is still some light.

[WorldClassAccident]

Wheel nicely centred witht he shell tacked in place
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V5pNK53n6Bs/UE4sohvn7LI/AAAAAAAADBU/HV3wnJc3kn4/s640/2012-09-10%252018.17.34.jpg

The old wheel arches fit nicely against the new ones, Even better fit when persuaded into position
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yVtEP7vtfvI/UE4spabHnVI/AAAAAAAADBk/hl1nAvwAQ3A/s640/2012-09-10%252018.18.03.jpg

Wiring tidied a bit ready for hiding behind the trim. Gear stick and handbrake likewise. Seat is probably not going to make it into production.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eeRSeWSGuW4/UE4spz6XiAI/AAAAAAAADBs/uocVLopsg4Y/s640/2012-09-10%252018.18.24.jpg

Well, some of the wiring has been tidied. Dashboard also unlikely to make production.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SttbPldzn7I/UE4sqtqHGzI/AAAAAAAADB0/21aPnvyXzi4/s640/2012-09-10%252018.18.37.jpg

More tidied wire and the main earth and live points on the loom.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I-GzrTK6Q64/UE4sq9V7vqI/AAAAAAAADB8/zvbpYcLQ2_c/s640/2012-09-10%252018.18.56.jpg

Re-sited header tank with flexi connectors. It is still technically above the radiator.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6GYSho7rhSE/UE4srpJ1AhI/AAAAAAAADCE/qjn84Jrzwd4/s640/2012-09-10%252018.19.26.jpg

Re-sited brake servo. Shelf will be bonded to the wood bulkhead when I fit that for further re-enforcement although it seem remarkably solid as it is.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E4dCFOJTv1c/UE4ssKd0BaI/AAAAAAAADCI/_lRn5EBvW1w/s640/2012-09-10%252018.19.40.jpg

The front loom might need a bit more work but that is a working headlight, side light with main beam, two indicators and a horn!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nEzvRnwnLeU/UE4ssvULh-I/AAAAAAAADCY/lQLpqlwo4DU/s640/2012-09-10%252018.19.52.jpg

The narrow boot opening means I will be lining it with 4mm ply. The cardboard is a temporary template to be refined when I get my delayed metal sills.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--t4Bejr1Jlc/UE4stvDcaTI/AAAAAAAADCc/563oXWZWSPM/s640/2012-09-10%252018.20.09.jpg

This will be the front boot area and be behind a hinged wooded bulk head (I think) or possibly the seat backs
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sWYHL952bsk/UE4st6kyUAI/AAAAAAAADCg/GIQ5pmqaGRc/s640/2012-09-10%252018.20.31.jpg

This is the view that will be blocked by a second bulk head fitted to connect the (cardboard) boot floor to the top of the shell where there is a bit of wood already bonded into place
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eYkY5zoG4aA/UE4svpkvslI/AAAAAAAADCw/GtcwDtSw1zQ/s640/2012-09-10%252018.20.52.jpg

This, sort of, shows the gap between the inside shell of the Scimitar (green) and the new outer shell of the G46. I need to think about how I bond the two together so I don't allow muck from the outside to get flicked in between the inner and outer shell.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5azdOreC0lA/UE4svtWIBcI/AAAAAAAADC8/7fhkBCT9k-0/s640/2012-09-10%252018.21.20.jpg

A view under the bonnet to show that the water bottle no longer hits the bonnet
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iJiIVixY6RY/UE4sv2O9P5I/AAAAAAAADC0/UFW8HbcsrFk/s640/2012-09-10%252018.24.29.jpg

The alternator is also okay
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gUCJfGmCAD8/UE4sxFWfHAI/AAAAAAAADDE/Ay2Vot9mc60/s640/2012-09-10%252018.24.44.jpg

and the brake servo is fine and dandy
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rvuX7i4HqFw/UE4sxgfQc0I/AAAAAAAADDI/fWQ9x0G6_Q8/s640/2012-09-10%252018.24.52.jpg

View from the back
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DqDQ-1pJqH0/UE4syeYem3I/AAAAAAAADDU/18oaXE7FvyQ/s640/2012-09-10%252018.26.24.jpg

Pondering seat heights. Does this look too high or is it okay?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dOoMvtb48ks/UE4szCYt5tI/AAAAAAAADDc/fzOvCDTY_sA/s640/2012-09-10%252018.27.01.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h8zqH7rzr3Q/UE4szxk4hdI/AAAAAAAADDs/iaJtYuUrJF4/s640/2012-09-10%252018.27.25.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3_IPPp8gi_Q/UE4s01BbClI/AAAAAAAADD0/cRVwZEkqfoE/s640/2012-09-10%252018.27.38.jpg

Those photos were with me sat on a kids booster seat that sat mostly in the dip of the rear foot well. I reckon I could probably mount the Land Rover seats about the same height. If I need to be lower I could cut away the raised area that used to be under the front seats.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0NcyWWbsIU0/UE4s1zUzA-I/AAAAAAAADEI/uIW4AExjjUk/s640/2012-09-10%252018.28.18.jpg

Views about the seating height welcome. Comments about how handsome I look welcome. Piss takes and other comments are tolerated. ;-)

[Mister Towed]

Driving position looks to be just right. I like your seat, is it a Maclaren?

[WorldClassAccident]

i came back from holiday today to find a pair of Land Rover seats sat outside my garage. A gift from a friend.

I placed them in the G46 and noticed a possible issue, the width.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tlmoIpXsWx0/UF8ruiUHUHI/AAAAAAAADGo/Hl-OQKEnUlU/s912/2012-09-23%252015.51.53.jpg

and possible the height of the backs
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NP0YgcC_mp4/UF8runcK3CI/AAAAAAAADGs/fLOH7QCJKdE/s912/2012-09-23%252015.52.04.jpg

I have been trying to read the threads on my phone while on holiday but it is challenging to see any detail in the photos. I thought I had seen a lowered floor pan that ran from the depth of the rear foot well forward and thought this would help but when I checked the car there was a great lump of chassis in the way.

From above you can see the lowered foot well and also not the two bolt holes just in front.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cavyOeMbvWY/UF8ru2MFqfI/AAAAAAAADGw/LGoJQD8NWOE/s912/2012-09-23%252015.54.41.jpg

From below you can see the black shiney underneath of the foot wells and the big silver lump of chassis that those two bolts went into.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DixEZWQTiX8/UF8r05TAgpI/AAAAAAAADHA/P5d57wqSsDQ/s912/2012-09-23%252015.55.01.jpg

This is as low as the seats are going to get

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yKxTj36TVNo/UF8r1G61KRI/AAAAAAAADHI/7vTMnQLrUro/s912/2012-09-23%252016.02.47.jpg

With a bit of careful bolt extraction the seat backs can be reclided
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-otb4rF4u8GY/UF8r2ujRS6I/AAAAAAAADHY/nma2dXWDIA8/s912/2012-09-23%252016.03.05.jpg

This allows a better fit height wise but it still looks like I will need different seats though

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2yV2Fvx3u48/UF8r0w8wcOI/AAAAAAAADHE/AoVSh1Yt8Ec/s912/2012-09-23%252016.02.56.jpg

[Charman.tech]

http://image 237

Don't know if the attachment is working until I post this reply, hopefully the attachment is a scale drawing and section I did this afternoon to show the dimensions of the G46 rear footwell.

Andy kindly sent dimensions of his ally bucket seats but they are to big and ffar to costly to cut about to make them fit.

Mr Towed buckets seats look as if they would work even if they had to be modified.

[Charman.tech]

did not work, shame its a good sketch, I can email it but can't seemed to add it to this thread

[WorldClassAccident]

I picked up a pair of Scimitar rear seats (following a tip on another thread) and the first fitting looks good. Just placed there for the photo because of the rain (hence poor picture quality). The seat squab will sit lower,at the moment the red marker pen is holding it in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uKICc3MF7sQ/UGVQHG2h7VI/AAAAAAAADIk/443HXyfM2OQ/s912/2012-09-27%252018.11.21.jpg

The curve of the seat back fits nicely with the shape of the cockpit.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i_etxeuiy1M/UGVQHEBEAkI/AAAAAAAADIo/a4xztGsPj-M/s912/2012-09-27%252018.11.04.jpg

Even the colour isn't too bad, a tan vinyl, as I was thinking of a tan leather and wood interior anyway although it is a bit more Des O'Connor orange than I really wanted.

[WorldClassAccident]

I have had some fun recently playing with gravity which has delayed any progress for a while. I have however managed to fit the metal door plates that Gary provided and test fitted the hinges. I now need to think how to get the hinges to be in the right position. Anyway, some photos and comments about them.

First, the cause of the delays
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UZQwfWn5x3Y/UHQbJtxB3hI/AAAAAAAADOY/5AD2enB-jRY/s640/AnkleEnhanced.jpg

The door plate. This is for the front of the door so has a hole for the hinge. The rear plate was similar but without the hole.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NpJgRqvbpKo/UHQckOfJN9I/AAAAAAAADP0/7OiAmP-IjYU/s912/2012-10-09%252012.05.00.jpg

Trial fit the hinge before fitting the plate
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9sXiPPz-SNk/UHQclKgYtRI/AAAAAAAADP8/0MTe3Hu5GMM/s912/2012-10-09%252012.05.51.jpg


These simply bolt into place with a couple of penny washers to protect the bodywork
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kg96HcWUPzU/UHQciNesF_I/AAAAAAAADPo/hJDerLXciC4/s912/2012-10-09%252012.04.09.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8fUjsnrlWYA/UHQcj0ph3GI/AAAAAAAADPw/a-lw4lMoptI/s912/2012-10-09%252012.04.16.jpg

All looks very neat in the car
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SC_KGh0nLas/UHQcmhgISKI/AAAAAAAADQI/ggnZml6FkiY/s912/2012-10-09%252012.08.49.jpg

Until viewed from above when I realised the hinge actually stuck out of the body due to the angle of the door shuts. In the Scimi they were at 90 degrees to the car, in the G46 they are not.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Kxp_zAYE2Vc/UHQcm0zyRwI/AAAAAAAADQM/dn24MPzUhWY/s912/2012-10-09%252012.24.30.jpg

This shows the hinges from inside the front wing positioned so that the bit of the hinge the door is fixed to is parallel with the side of the body (ie in the correct position) and you can see quite a gap between the hinge and the metal plate. I wonder if I could get some kind of wedge for that?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QJcJ_bNsX9g/UHQcngVntSI/AAAAAAAADQQ/catByX8bJZA/s912/2012-10-09%252012.25.29.jpg

Anyway, took them all out and slapped some undercoat on them while I think about it.

Any suggestions of the door hinge angle are welcome. I was wondering about trying to bend the hinge a bit but it is 7mm steel and I don't want to unbend the existing bends or destroy the hinge pin which seems good at the moment.

[garyh]

Could you use a hot air gun?

[GazDavies]

How about welding/bolting the plate onto the existing frame at a 90 degree angle just behind where you have it now?

[WorldClassAccident]

I was thinking of trying to use a blow torch to help 'encourage it to bend but I am struggling to work out where to hold it when I hit it. I don't want to change the bend that is already there or break the hinge pin (both with red arrows pointing at them) although the hinge needs about and extra 30 degrees of bend.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e_0N8uXJXo4/UHQkF9o38bI/AAAAAAAADRg/m6My0lTyRzQ/s912/Hinge.jpg

That is why I was wondering about a wedge behind it when mounted to reduce the affect and then perhaps mounting another wedge inside the door where the hinge fits.

[WorldClassAccident]

GazDavies - Do you mean weld a new bracket onto the black frsme and then fix the door hinge to that? I think that might work!

[garyh]

That sounds like a job for Mr. M...

[GazDavies]

GazDavies - Do you mean weld a new bracket onto the black frsme and then fix the door hinge to that? I think that might work!

Yes, that or your original idea, weld a wedge onto it so that the hinge is at 90 degrees. Its got to be easier than trying to bend the hinges to the correct postion.

[andrewhush]

I have had some fun recently playing with gravity which has delayed any progress for a while. I have however managed to fit the metal door plates that Gary provided and test fitted the hinges. I now need to think how to get the hinges to be in the right position. Anyway, some photos and comments about them.

First, the cause of the delays
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UZQwfWn5x3Y/UHQbJtxB3hI/AAAAAAAADOY/5AD2enB-jRY/s640/AnkleEnhanced.jpg

The door plate. This is for the front of the door so has a hole for the hinge. The rear plate was similar but without the hole.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NpJgRqvbpKo/UHQckOfJN9I/AAAAAAAADP0/7OiAmP-IjYU/s912/2012-10-09%252012.05.00.jpg

Trial fit the hinge before fitting the plate
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9sXiPPz-SNk/UHQclKgYtRI/AAAAAAAADP8/0MTe3Hu5GMM/s912/2012-10-09%252012.05.51.jpg


These simply bolt into place with a couple of penny washers to protect the bodywork
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kg96HcWUPzU/UHQciNesF_I/AAAAAAAADPo/hJDerLXciC4/s912/2012-10-09%252012.04.09.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8fUjsnrlWYA/UHQcj0ph3GI/AAAAAAAADPw/a-lw4lMoptI/s912/2012-10-09%252012.04.16.jpg

All looks very neat in the car
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SC_KGh0nLas/UHQcmhgISKI/AAAAAAAADQI/ggnZml6FkiY/s912/2012-10-09%252012.08.49.jpg

Until viewed from above when I realised the hinge actually stuck out of the body due to the angle of the door shuts. In the Scimi they were at 90 degrees to the car, in the G46 they are not.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Kxp_zAYE2Vc/UHQcm0zyRwI/AAAAAAAADQM/dn24MPzUhWY/s912/2012-10-09%252012.24.30.jpg

This shows the hinges from inside the front wing positioned so that the bit of the hinge the door is fixed to is parallel with the side of the body (ie in the correct position) and you can see quite a gap between the hinge and the metal plate. I wonder if I could get some kind of wedge for that?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QJcJ_bNsX9g/UHQcngVntSI/AAAAAAAADQQ/catByX8bJZA/s912/2012-10-09%252012.25.29.jpg

Anyway, took them all out and slapped some undercoat on them while I think about it.

Any suggestions of the door hinge angle are welcome. I was wondering about trying to bend the hinge a bit but it is 7mm steel and I don't want to unbend the existing bends or destroy the hinge pin which seems good at the moment.
Mucking about with my scimitar hinges today. One pin was stuck in the hinge arm and rotating in the bracket rather than the other way around. When I eventually got it apart a solution to WCA's dilemma above revealed itself. If you redrill the bracket where the white tippex dot is on the photos below the bracket can lie on the 45 degree angled panel with the arm pointing straight back. As long as the hinge pin is well forward of the shutline and is as close as possible to the inside face of the bodyshell, all parts of the door (especially the most forward edge) will open outward before swinging forwards so preventing it catching on the front wing.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/sammio%20g46%20build/standardhinge.jpg
Standard hinge

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/sammio%20g46%20build/modifiedhinge1.jpg
Redrill hole at the white dot

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/sammio%20g46%20build/modifiedhinge3.jpg
view from side

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/sammio%20g46%20build/modifiedhinge2.jpg
view from rear

I was going to make my support frame for the hinge brackets lie at right angles to the car centreline (as in the scimitar) but I might be changing to this idea

[andrewhush]

for the cooling system expansion tank i want to make a comment:
it sits higher than the radiator, but does it sit higher as the highest water-passage of the engine? if not , the cooling system wil not work correctly.
Not quite right. A good method is to run a small bore tube from the highest point where any trapped air might collect to the bottom of an expansion tank which is half full of coolant. When expansion of the air (and of the coolant, especially when the engine is switched off after a hot run) the air will be forced down the tube and bubble up through the coolant in the expansion tank and out through the pressure cap. When it all cools down, coolant, not air is sucked back into the system. I had this system on my spartan years ago with the tank down beside the engine mount and you could see the bubbles on the move for the first few times after changing the coolant until all of the air was expelled.

[Nike55]

Food for thought re door position / hinges and coolant header tank...

Cannot of course give any indication of how I intend to progress as G46 still under 'starters orders' at Poole.

[andrewhush]

With the pressure cap on the expansion tank means that on contraction of the coolant within the engine only coolant can be drawn back into the engine. Air enters at the pressure cap into the space above the coolant in the expansion tank. With the arrangement you suggest with the pressure cap at the highest point and a non pressurised tube leading to the expansion tank, air gets drawn in there rather than coolant being drawn back from the expansion tank.

[andrewhush]

Hi Micha,

I was just about to reply for the benefit of anyone else following this discussion when I looked again at your post and saw the last photo with the extra seal in it. Most standard caps look like the next photos and wont seal the shiny disc to the filler neck.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/expbottlecap2.jpg

It took me a while many years ago to work out where the air was getting in until I found this little valve.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/andrewhush/expbottlecap3.jpg

My first car (triumph herald) had exactly the arrangement you have pictured above with a plastic bottle tied to the front of the radiator but never worked properly. One of those double seal caps would have corrected it if I had realised where the air was getting in. Who supplies these?

Andrew

[andrewhush]

Just found them!

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/koyo_cap.htm

[Mister Towed]

Just found them!

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/koyo_cap.htm

I'd check the size of that before ordering one - modern Japanese cars use a smaller cap than old British ones.

[WorldClassAccident]

It was the crunch day meeting with the consultant.

Has the ankle shown enough sign of recovery?

Will it survive!

Amputate or Fuse?

Woot!

Woot!

Woot!

It is Fuse.

I am being referred to an ankle specialist consultant (well, two actually) to get their views on exactly what the best option is. Possibly a nail up through the heel, talus and into the leg. Possibly a Pan-talur fusion. just got to wait for the next appointments some time in January.

What ever, I will still be able to count past 15 which is the result I wanted.

[oxford1360]

That's a good Christmas present. I'm really pleased for you. Fingers and (ten) toes crossed that it all goes to plan.

[davecymru]

I'm chuffed for you matey, and an interesting side-effect of the large pin option is that you now have many years of winding up Airport security metal detectors ahead of you :)

[WorldClassAccident]

All my interior metalwork has been Ti so far...

[WorldClassAccident]

Bumped for the guy who pm'd me about buying it

[Nike55]

Sorry, just read this thread, congrats WCA and hope all goes well.

[WorldClassAccident]

Just thought I would update the thread to let you guys know of the progress.

With the leg - all good news so far. I keep the foot and subject to the result of last Mondays scan they think they won't do the fusing operation unless it collapses. This means I should be walking without the cast by the end of the month and hopefully driving again.

With the G46 - mixed news. I won't be driving a 3 pedal car again so I have had to sell it. Sad. The good bit is I have sold it to another fan of the design who was dealing with Gary even before I bought my car so it is going to a good home.

I will let him introduce himself and start his own thread when he collects the car which will probably not be for a month or so.

Anyway, I shall continue to read the threads with great interest. Who knows, there may be a G46 on the road by the summer*

*if we have a summer this year

[Nike55]

'Anyway, I shall continue to read the threads with great interest. Who knows, there may be a G46 on the road by the summer'

Hi WCA, so glad to hear the good news in respect of your foot, but sad to hear that you have had to let the Scimitar go.

I do hope the new owner will post updates, as there are precious few Scimitar conversions around, and that you will continue to be involved on this site with any tips, hints or suggestions in respect of Scimitar / G46 conversions, and I hope you build something (with an autobox) in the future.

Best wishes

[Mister Towed]

Good luck getting the foot sorted. As for a car you can drive on one leg, have you considered a Tribute MX250 using an automatic Eunos as a donor?

There's usually loads on ebay, here's one for starters -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Looking-for-a-project-Mazda-MX5-Eunos-1991-/271149824067?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f21c9f843

New head gasket and off you go! :)

[WorldClassAccident]

Some people may have seen my postings on the Tribute site. BMW 2.8 auto with a mix of D-Type and other styling laid over it.

I have never wanted a wannabe replica (no offense to replica owners*), I have wanted something of that era.

*well, not too much

[Nike55]

Agreed re the 'replica' conundrum. I've been pondering the problem myself and its not easy coming up with a 'recreation of a 1950's sports car' 'look' that's different enough for people not to immediately think Ferrari/Jag/Aston etc wannabe.

(Maybe I should paint it white with a rising sun logo and call it the 'Wanabe Special', then go an invade 'Cobra' breakfast meetings) :)

Look forward to reading about your beast on the 'other' site thread!

[seanick]

Good luck getting the foot sorted. As for a car you can drive on one leg, have you considered a Tribute MX250 using an automatic Eunos as a donor?

There's usually loads on ebay, here's one for starters -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Looking-for-a-project-Mazda-MX5-Eunos-1991-/271149824067?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f21c9f843

New head gasket and off you go! :)

Tributes Red Mx250 deemo car is for sale I think, and is an auto!! Job done!

[WorldClassAccident]

The final day has come and with a heavy heart I wave goodbye and wish the new owner luck

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k0wUGlKqnk0/UYo-1ZLPvSI/AAAAAAAAEUQ/i9dNhc2sFO4/w402-h301-p-o/IMG_20130508_114902.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qB5L-5o7yGo/UYo-1fWeSCI/AAAAAAAAEUQ/sY32lSAPIu4/w646-h485-no/IMG_20130508_114914.jpg

and suddenly all warranties have expired...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SOoMEjSksBg/UYo-1XqbgFI/AAAAAAAAEUQ/EVHdNvvj9Rw/w646-h485-no/IMG_20130508_124144.jpg

Good luck Mike and please keep us all posted on progress.

If you want to see my new build part 3 then it is in the next forum along : http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4253

[Mister Towed]

:cry: