Why didn't I think of that
Is it me or have Z3 2.8's suddenly gone up in value?
Seem to be going for silly money.
Was bidding on a 97 2.8 on Copart today, front end, cat c value was only put at £1400. One front wheel turned out and pushed back. Bit of a risk could be a wishbone or a bent chassis leg. It did have a very nice red leather interior and a good looking roof, thought it was worth a punt a £500>£600.
Went for £1250 + buyers premium
My latest cock up is the front indicators. Being rather clever I fitted a set of chrome Harley indicator bulbs. That means that the yellow of the indicator bulb doesn't show through and give you the fried egg look.
Unfortunately, the chrome bulbs are a tiny bit bigger and when the MOT tester left the hazards on during the test, the lenses started melting!
I've ordered a pair of glass lenses, whats the betting they don't fit the plastic light version?
If I fit LED's in the front indicators the flash rate is too quick.
Don't want to have to fiddle about fitting resistors.
I have fitted LED's in the front parking lights but 2 sets have blown so I'm going to fit normal bulbs.
On my Cafe racer motorcycles, I run a mix of LED's and bulbs for the indicators along with a special flasher unit that automatically corrects the flash rate.
The Z3 doesn't have a flasher unit but a double realy, very complicated and not worth the trouble, stick with bulbs!
At the top silicone (fuel resistant)90 degree bend all are 51mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Silicone-Fuel-Oil-Hose-Elbow-90-Degree-51Mm/290578439272?hash=item43a7d31c68:g:EQcAAOSwuAVWyZaN
90 degree tight stainless bend
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-2-50-mm-51-1D-Mandrel-Exhaust-Tight-Radius-Bend-304-Stainless-steel/263164672353?
epid=864132173&hash=item3d45d63961:g:ZA0AAOSwa39UyhRF
Long 90 stainless than is pushed and glued into the existing filler pipe.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-51mm-90-Degree-Intercooler-Pipe-Stainless-Steel-Mandrel-Bend-L-300mm/221885418109hash=item33a966ca7d:g:MWMAAOSw~gRVywsv
If you hunt on my build thread you will see what adhesive I used. Make sure there is half a tank of petrol as you will need to leave it for a few days to go off.
Happy to help with the fitting.
My anti glug was just a piece of fuel line fitted to the existing with a bayonette conector (same as on the washer line and fitted to the new top elbow.
I drilled a hole in the top stainless bend and fitted a rivnut. The rivnut acts as a nipple to push the vent pipe onto. I can fit one for you. Other end is just a push fit joiner to the existing pipe.
Top Bodge even if I must say so myself!
I presume your fuel caps have a 51mm flange to accept the fuel pipe.
Wire wheel update
My first set of wires were from an XJS, bolt-on MWS wheels. The chrome wasn't very good so I had them chrome powder coated. They look very good but I have the MK2 Jag that has perfect chrome wires on and although they look good, they aren't chrome.
I then got lucky with a set o 5 chrome bolt-ons, brand new never been fitted. Again they were meant to be from a Jag but it turned out they were for a 90's BMW. Would have been perfect but they stuck out about an inch too far. If the car hadn't been painted I would have widened the arches slightly.
Now I have obtained a set of Dayton chrome bolt-ons that came from an XJS again so I knew these would fit.........would they bugger
They hit the front callipers, 3mm spacers on the front and a bit of adjustment to the front callipers with the trusty angle grinder and they fit. Again I have used spiggot rings and wobble bolts.
They now sit very nicely, just got to take them for a road test.
3 advantages of the Dayton wires over the MWS wheels. They weigh about half as much so much easier to take on and off, the wheel centre is smaller so it looks more like a proper wire wheel, more spoke showing and the calliper shows through and finally the centre cap is a much smaller diameter which again looks much better.
I will post a picture when (if) we get any sun.
New wheel, it doesn't look great here but I have covered it in WD40 to protect it, when washed off it really sparkles.
Pushed the boat out and fitted new tyres as well, old wheels going onto the new project.
Sorry but I don't know the ET.
My first set were MWS off an XJS and the fit was perfect, just needed to fit spiggot rings and wobble bolts.
Second set was sold to me as Jaguar but turned out to be BMW fitment, didn't need spiggot rings and used standard bolts, however the ET must have been different as they were about an inch too wide, if the car hadn't just been painted I would have modified the arches.
My third set are Dayton, they came fitted on an XJS that had been imported from Florida. Presumed that as the previous MWS Jaguar whells fitted that these would too........wrong!
Rears fit fine but I had to use 3mm spacers on the front and grind the caliper body slightly.
So 3 sets and they all fit slightly differently.
If you were buying new I would suggest using proper knock offs with custom hubs. The hubs are expensive but the wheels are cheaper.
250 SWBc version 2
I have bought a second kit from Chris, this one is going to be built up with my son who has just finished Uni, or at least that was the idea. He has had a job interview up in Scotland so if he gets it the build will be tricky to say the least.
Not going to be a full build thread but just a few hints and tips also highlighting any changes in the kit from the last one which was a very early one.
First Impressions
Kit seems to be far more refined, the panels have a gloss finish apart from the doors. The doors are much better finished and look as if they will fit much better.
The bodyshell is considerably lighter than the first one so the bonnet should work fine on the standard bonnet rams.
My first kit was finished in white gelcoat which was mainly matt, it was an absolute pig to see how the sanding and finishing was going, the new one is in grey and is nice and shiny, this makes any ripples and imperfections much easy to see.
My son wants to keep his car on the road as much as possible so it is going to be built up on another donor which I am meant to be doing the Daytona on. The idea is to get it all fitted to my donor and then swapped over to his car.
The clams are in the back garden and we made a start on the bonnet. I made the mistake of the first build of filling the gaps on the bonnet mould lines before sanding them down. This was wrong as the bonnet just needed sanding down and no additional filler was needed.
We sanded down all the bonnet flash lines with 120 grit electric sanders, followed by a quick pass with 200 grit. I then used my polishing mop with some G6 compound to bring the shine back to the shell. This allows you to see any imperfections that need any extra work.
You can buy 5 meters of 120 grit velcro paper for £11 on eBay, as soon as it gets smooth replace the paper, it makes the job so much quicker. You can reuse the old paper later as it will the be more like 200 grit.
It took my son and myself an afternoon to sand down all the bonnet mould lines and then polish them. Almost no filler will be needed.
On the last shell I had it put in an over to check for air pockets, only found one. This time the shell has been sitting in the garden for 3 weeks as I have been away on holiday and because it has been so hot I will not bother with the oven.
Door check strap packers
With the Z3 doors you will quite easily see that a small section of the front wing mounting bracket needs to be removed. About 3" at the door end. What is not so easily seen is that the leading edge of the door at the top will hit the bonnet hinge. With the bonnet open there looks like plenty of room but when the bonnet is closed the hinge moves backwards so that when the door is opened it hits the bonnet hinge but only when the bonnet is closed. I couldn't work out why the leading edge of my door kept on chipping.
I fitted a hinge packer behind the check strap, this limits the door opening slightly stopping it from catching. You can of course make your own packers but I have seen some where the door opening is so limited that you have to squeeze in.
I have had some laser cut and powder coated for my new build, easy to fit, remove the pin that holds the check strap onto the car and then remove the 2 bolts holding the check strap on. Slide the packer in and bolt back up. A thin x-head screwdriver helps to align the holes. Simple and it works.
I have had a few of the packers made, if anyone wants a pair they are £14 inc UK P+P
Sorry but won't be able to make it but have a great meet.
New Boot Hinges
I don't like the exposed boot hinges and Chris hates making the interior hinge bracket assembly, so I have come up with an alternative. Just hopes he remembers this when he prices up my wide body Z3gato bonnet
eep:
Lip and return made to take original Z3 boot hinge, it will have the struts attached but still mocking up.
Opens nicely without catching.
Fist fit, still needs fettling for the gaps but a job for another day as I'm losing the light.
Genius even if I must say so myself. I will also be cutting the rear panel as before to enlarge the boot area so that a full size spare wheel can be carried in
case of a puncture.
Seems fine at the moment but I intend to put a metal plate behind it for additional strength.
Good point on the rain water, not that we get much here!
When the gas struts are fitted the boot won't open so far but a tray fitted under the rear lip could be fitted with a couple of drain holes.
Any pictures/info on your build?
dor locking. Post moved to keep it all together
Door deadlocking solved!
The doors deadlocking on the Z3 has been a problem as with the new doorskin on you simply cannot open the car.
The remote can simply stop working, I have a spare and neither would work. The only way in is to remove the soft top rear window. If you have a sewn-in rear window or a coupe you are simply buggered.
This has happened to me on 4 occasions on 3 different cars, only once with the roof up, I routinely work with the roof down in case this happens.
Even with the roof down it is a pig of a job to get the doors open, hence the tiny modifications to the inside of the door.
THE CURE
Attach a wire to the blue/yellow/red wire from the ZKE A104 module behind the glovebox. The ZKE module has 3 plus, you want the centre purple one.
Run this new wire to the boot, lock the car using the fob, touch the new wire to the positive battery terminal and the doors will unlock
Now I would love to claim this stroke of genius as my own work but someone is bound to grass me up so all credit to gookah on the Z3 forum.
Last edited by Jaguartvr; 18th September 2021 at 13:06..