Quick Update
Finished the painting about 3pm so no time to flat and polish so the unveiling will be from the gun. Thrown it back together literally, will take a while to get the gaps adjusted so again won't be gapped for the BBQ.
Still need to fit grill, free off sticking brake and fit my new wheels.
Inside is still full of sanding dust so will have to hope for sunny weather tomorrow so I can have the roof down to try and clean the inside.
Lost one of the window weatherstrips so there are going to be a few bits missing.
Good news on my petrol filler pipe, I had used the CBS flexible pipe but found it filled up and spat fuel back out of the cap when filling. The pipe is 2" diameter at each end but necks in to about 1 1/2" in the centre due to the concertina effect. I have replaced it with plain 2" boat fuel pipe, it works, no splash back so long as you don't pull the trigger too hard.
I was admiring Williams car at the BBQ and he has gone about it in a slightly different way. He has fed a (32 or38mm) blue water pipe all the way though the pipe finishing inside the tank. The tight fit of the nozzle in the pipe forces the petrol directly into the tank. Good solution.
I bought some brand new old stock chrome wire wheels that were sold as Jaguar but turned out to be BMW. They are laced differently, they are laced more in the centre so look more like the Borrani style. Problem is that they stick out about 1 1/2 inches further which gives the car a bit more aggresive appearance which I'm not so keen on, so the originals are going back on.
f2 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
f1 by
jaguartvr, on FlickrSo if anyone is looking for a set of brand new (except for one trip to Southampton and back) set of chrome wire wheels you know who to ask. Now sold.
Car still has to be flat and polished and the panel gaps adjusted.
The indicators on the rear are brake lights with amber covers, this gives you a double brake light bulb, normal filament is used as the indicator and the "brake" element is used for the reversing lights. I have attached 2 LED high intensity brake light bulbs to the inside of one of the rear reflectors, all wired together and this will act as the rear fog light, still have to wire them up but don't see why it won't work.
I was still bolting things on as I left for the BBQ so still quite a few bits to finish.
Thats right, it does make the indicators dimmer. Ideally the 5w side would be brighter but I don't think you can get any other bulbs.
Indicators are flashing at the right rate but I do still have the original repeaters under the front wing. If I remove the bulb the flash rate is too fast, maybe because I have only 5w at the rear.
Another one step forward 2 steps back.
A few more pictures as I finish off a few of the many small jobs.
Sill plates fitted and they really tidy it
f12 by
jaguartvr, on FlickrWe painted the under wing area as it would annoy me to see it unfinished, slam panel still to do.
f11 by
jaguartvr, on FlickrThis picture shows the flow coat painted on the underside of the bonnet, not quite the right colour but it is so much better than the raw GRP. Will be getting another coat to cover up any overspray.
f10 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Really pleased with the bonnet aperture, well worth the effort of setting it back under the opening, gives it depth and looks more like a metal panel.
f14 by
jaguartvr, on FlickrUsed a Vauxhall Corsa boot light as the numberplate light. I know everyone else has gone for the traditional chrome lights but they seem to rust in front of your eyes. My headlight rims and mirrors are also showing signs of corrosion already. My Mini door handles were good 2nd hand items and show no signs of corrosion.
f16 by
jaguartvr, on FlickrFinally a couple of shots of the grill, finish not perfect but it does look like chrome. I was talking to the man who does the plating and he said the problem with the sprayed chrome is that it discolours and turns bluish
f9 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Thanks Trev
I think this was the one I ordered, bit pricey though, almost £6!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-Stainless-Steel-Mesh-2-47mm-Hole-0-71mm-Wire-A4-Sheet-210-x-300mm-/151248112223?hash=item2337170a5f:g:k2AAAOSwBOtY~hts
If it helps the old finances, you can get the side vents done if you wish out of the same sheet.
You have to click the link to see the picture, does anyone know how to make the picture visible without clicking the link?
Thanks Paul
I generated the BB code and pasted it but only get the text which acts as a link rather than the picture.
I had only just mastered photobucket!
All of Erics pictures were posted from flickr
Brakes
When I took the car in for its MOT before starting the kit it was apparent that the brakes weren't too hot. I replaced the seized handbrake cable but where the shoes mount on the pin & spring it was badly rusted on the back plate and I had to fit the shoes on a nut and bolt, not ideal.
To replace the back plate you have to remove the drive shaft and exhaust, an awful lot of work for a back plate. So some bodgering was called for. I cut the old rusty back plate off by cutting through it at the narrowest section, I was then able to bend it so it slipped over the flange. I cut the same slit in the new back plate and slipped in on in the same way. Bolted in on and clamped the cut so I could weld the slot up. Saved hours in labour.
New pads, shoes, spings, discs, backplate and replaced the brake piston rubbers. Although the brake caliper looked very rusty the old seals and pistons were in good order so I just replaced the rubbers. The back plate did need a little bending to stop any rubbing noises.
Looking much better
unnamed-53 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
While I was at it I replaced the front discs and pads and then realised there were no dust shields at all on the front discs so have bought a pair yet to be fitted.
I knew the brakes weren't to good but got a bit of a shock of the state of the pads, all were in a pretty similar state
unnamed-52 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
I reckon there were still a few miles left in them! When looking at them in the calliper they didn't look too bad, it was only when they were removed that the true state became apparent.
It had a problem with not revving so I think it was stood for about 18 months, by the look of it on grass.
The body underneath is fine but the brakes, track rod ends, spare wheel carrier etc are all rusty. Will be easier to replace than restore.
Yet more bodgering
Yep, I'm up to my old tricks again, more bodgering!
I had replaced my indicator bulbs with tail/brake light bulbs to act as indicators/reversing lights. I want to avoid adding reversing/fog lights to the rear.
The problem is, is that the tail/brake light bulbs are 21/5 watt, you need the 21w for the reversing lights but the 5w isn't bright enough for the indicator, it works but is just not bright enough.
After a lot of searching I found P15d bulbs on Ebay, about a fiver a pair. They are designed for old motorcycle headlights and both filaments are 25w. The problem is that they don't have pins on them and they have a collar.
unnamed-57 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Not a problem, the collar is very thin and can be trimmed back with heavy duty scissors.
unnamed-56 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Then carefully grind the rest away on a bench grinder, you have to be careful that you don't damage the elements.
Then solder a wire to each of the contacts.
unnamed-55 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Cover the solder points with hot glue to both insulste and give the joints some strength.
unnamed-54 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Then remove the original internal gubbins and refit the bulb. It is now a push fit and is tight enough for a good earth contact but I put a couple of dobs of hot glue to hold it firmly in place.
unnamed-24 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
This means you can use the standard Lucas light and fit a double element bulb.
And finally my superbly bodged rear fog light
unnamed-58 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
I bet the next owner who has to change the bulb won't think so!
Speedway motors polished gas cap 4-5/8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedway-Motors-Large-4-5-8-Polished-Aluminum-Shelby-Cobra-Style-Gas-Fuel-Cap-/261853013090?epid=658272544&hash=item3cf7a7e462:g:lvMAAOSwu4BVvLj4&vxp=mtr
This is a lot larger and cheaper than anything else I could find, it also looks perfect.
f1 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
To fit it I cut the mounting panel in half to enlarge it and then in half again.
cap2 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
Here is a picture of it mounted with the rear clam off.
fuel7 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
I did find that using the concertina effect fuel filler pipe from CBS restricted the fule flow so I bought 500mm of straight pipe designed for a boat. Fits perfectly and the fuel flow is much better, you still have to fill up with the trigger pulled half way but if you look at the picture on Smash's thread youl will see it is much better.
I used rivnuts to provide tapped holes to mount the flange as getting nuts on the mounting screws was just about impossible. Don't forget to provide a drainage hole otherwise it will fill up with water.
cap4 by
jaguartvr, on Flickr
I don't really want anyone fitting the 4-5/8ths filler cap, at the moment I can comfortably say I have the biggest on the forum and would like to keep it that way!
Travelling down Egham Hill on the A30 this morning and whats coming up the hill but a Cherry Red DNA 2Fifty, very nice it was, almost as nice as the 250swb!
Small world.
Didn't even cross my mind!
Very bright and blingy in the bright sunshine, looked like a brand new car. Did look very nice.
Top Tip
Check MOT regulations first!
Took it in for its first MOT since the conversion, all passed but it was pointed out that if fitting a single rear fog light it has to be fitted on the drivers side.....Doh!
So now I have to reposition it which involves cutting the body work which I wanted to avoid.
