Cheers guys,
Yeah I did rub it down and repaint - it's better, but I think I'll need to do it another couple of times in the future to get it looking perfect.
Yes I reckon a sandblasting kit might be the answer if you want a proper rust removal
Finally got round to photographing my car properly!!
[IMG]
_1DSC3099w by
paul ward, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]
_1DSC3099cw by
paul ward, on Flickr[/IMG]
No not yet, luckily on the pic you can't see the imperfections
So I decided to try out a black grille - can't decide which I prefer - what do you guys think?
aluminium - [IMG]
1grille 2 by
paul ward, on Flickr[/IMG]
or black -
1grille 1 by
paul ward, on Flickr
?
Yeah I love that napier, but those pics with the red grille look pretty good too
hmmmm
So finally got my registration back today - my car is now properly registered as a 'Triumph T48 spyder '
Thanks, I'm very relieved
Not yet, I'm not sure how to go about it really, I have a jag grille but not sure if getting a aluminium surround for it would be cheaper than having the whole front remoulded in fiberglass,
Any thoughts your end?
done a few photoshop renderings to see how it might look etc -
1nose3w by
paul ward, on Flickr
1nose2w by
paul ward, on Flickr
Cheers, I'm going to look at some options and see if I can find someone who can fabricate something - if anyone knows someone who could do something like this, let me know
Cheers
Ok, so today we finished doing the suspension work - we fitted avo ajustable dampers all round, lower (330) springs on the front and took one large leaf out of the rear leaf spring.
it is a much better, softer ride now, the front stance is nice and low - but the camber on the rear wheels is a bit extreme (top image was taken before the rear spring was altered)
- not sure how I can correct this - other than getting a slightly longer leaf spring made up specially ..... any ideas?
[IMG]
DSC_0071 by
paul ward, on Flickr[/IMG]
DSC_0016 by
paul ward, on Flickr
Hi
so firstly, no - I haven't tried charging around twist roads - to me it feels very hard and bumpy and when you corner it feels quite unstable - like it wouldn't want to go too fast, so when I have driven it I've taken it easy (with no roll bar protection and given my accident in the Porsche last year, I'm probably being overly cautious but I just feel very nervous driving it too fast )
Basicly - with the old suspension setup there was almost no give when you try to push the body down.
now with the new suspension mods there is a bit more give - I have only driven it about 100 meters up the driveway so far, but it does feel more comfortable than it did.
there is no lowering block - by the look of the clearance under the body - there wouldn't be room for a lowering block anyway (not sure if this was just how it was built or if it could be altered for your build) but the large gap between the body and the diff on the donor spitfire doesn't exist anymore on this car. Anyway I think the lowering block actually produces more negative camber which is the opposite of what we want here.
I've been going through old pics while we built the car and by the looks of it there was always a bit of negative camber on the car anyway - its just that this new suspension mod has accentuated that camber slightly so now it looks a bit more extreme.
I've had alot of people trying to give advice - most of the spitfire forums aren't helpful - I think maybe they don't understand the fact that the car is much lighter now and so haven't ever come across this issue.
the sammio forum on here has given some good advice and various ideas - and also Mick at Fiorano has helped a bit too.
at the moment there seems like a couple of viable options -
1. changing the half shaft length to the shorter ones.
2. Fitting the adjustable vertical link mod.
3. getting a bespoke leaf spring made up to the correct length and weight ratio needed to adjust the camber.
The vertical link mod might be the cheapest, but would require welding onto the link and that could be difficult to get done properly,
the half shafts are going to be hassle because you'd need to pull both hubs and rebuild them to fit the shorter shafts - canley classics used to provide ready made ones, but they don't anymore.
The custom spring looks like it could be the most expensive option (around £300 to £400 to get it made up) but actually fitting it would be far easier than the other two options. So at the moment I am tempted to pay more money just to get an easier fix, but still haven't decided really.
The wing supports will hopefully be made up by next week, he was supposed to do them this week but got sidetracked by other jobs.
any more news on yours yet?
So here's the before and after images - hopefully you can see that there always was a slight negative camber even before the mod was done - [IMG]
Screenshot_2016-11-22-23-06-38 by
paul ward, on Flickr[/IMG]
DSC_0016 by
paul ward, on Flickr
here's the spring - and the leaf we took out
DSC_0011 by
paul ward, on Flickr
ok sure - if you get a chance measure it for me,
cheers