Boot Lid Adjustmet
Boot lid doesn't fit too well, O/S front corner sits proud, N/S front cornet sits low and the back edge sits about 8mm too far back sticking out over the rear. The low side can be overcome by packing under the hinge, I did try packing part of the proud side as suggested but it didn't help.
I decided to try and curve the boot lid some more, that should in theory lower the front and pull the back in.
I sliced the two side ribs underneath, tensioned them with a pair of ratchet steps and held it in place with builders band. The two rear corners sat further in and looked much better but the centre still needed pulling in. The proud corner also sat much better. I then cut a slice through the numberplate housing, it's shape was stopping the panel from bending. I then fixed the slices with some GRP tape.
The boot lid sat much better but was still a little too proud in the centre at the back.
To get the back to sit further back I put a hydraulic ram in the boot and pushed it out a little, cut some slices and grp taped them.
The boot lid now sits a lot better, a bit of sanding and packing should get it to an acceptable fit.
Bubbles in the GRP
I'm glad to say are almost non existent. It has just been baked in an oven and we got two tiny bubbles, along with the one bubble I found previously on the front wing makes 3 in total.
Central locking
Bugger, bugger dam and bugger.
Remote central locking stopped working while it was locked. I had put an emergency cable in just in case this happened but although I had tried the cable, this time it wouldn't release.
I tried hooking a string around the inner door handle but it just wouldn't open so in the end had to open the zip on the rear window. I got my daughter to climb in but with her pulling the door handle and pulling up the lock button at the same time we still couldn't open the car. In the end the ignition had to be switched on and the door opener pulled before it would open. I don't think my emergency cable was faulty but I think it needed the ignition on before it would allow the locks to open.
I think the answer is to wire the door window to a switch in the boot that will allow you to open the window directly from the battery. Typically I have misplaced my Haynes manual with the wiring diagram.
In opening the zipped rear window the half of the zip that was attached to the hood has started pulling away so I will have to try and sow that up before I can refit the window.
The remote locking on these cars seems to be a bit of a problem, you need to have a backup plan as you can't get to the original door locks.
Badges
I'm not keen on cars that are dripping in Ferrari badges, but each to their own. I was looking for something that gives a nod to Ferrari but at the same time not trying to make it something that it is not.
I bought a genuine Ferrari "California" glove box badge but it was too small to really use on the bodywork so i have had some larger ones cut (Thanks Paul).
The top badge is the original glove box badge, the second one is how they come to me and the last 2 are after I have polished them on my buff and ultrasonically cleaned them. The polishing is very time consuming.
This is them on the boot to give you an idea of the size. I had a few made, by the time I have bought a couple buffing wheels and polishing sticks to finish the badges they will be around £40 if anyone is interested.
Not sure yet how to fix them as they are just flat on the back. I'm thinking of putting them in the oven to get them hot and then using glue from a hot glue gun, by pre heating them the glue should stay molten enough to allow you to coat the back and fit them into place. Not sure if this will work, you would have to devise you own way of fixing them, that way you can't complain to me if they drop off!
Thanks for that, it will probably take a bit of time and effort to trim the tape with a scalpel.
Don't forget, if your badge falls off, it's Roadsters fault!!!
They're a bugger to polish on the buff, the stainless is so hard.
So far I've bent two S's and 1 P has disappeared somewhere! The buff catches them and throws them into the darkest corners of the garage. The longer script is ok as you have something to hold onto but the single letters are hard. Thank your cutter for me, he did a great job.
next time I need a batch of alloy cut for my motorcycle parts I'll give you a shout.
It was a test to see how long it took you all to spot it!
I have some embossed alloy black and silver plates, very well made and a 2 day turnaround and they were only about £18 for the pair. I haven't fitted the rear plate yet as I am working on the boot still, or will be as soon as I have got my head around the electric window wiring so that I can instal an emergency window opening circuit.
To get to the emergency switch you will need the key to open the boot and disconnect the battery. This will set the alarm off and you still need to find the hidden wires to attach to the battery.
If you really wanted to nick it you be in through the rear window in under a minute, or if they were just after my collection of Abba tapes they would most likely use that old favourite....The Brick.
If I have to flat and polish the paint, my painter will be getting a boot up the bum!
Haven't done any more on the boot as the central locking is holding me up. I need to sort out a way to be able to lower the window from the boot. I've misplaced my Haynes manual and electrics aren't my strong point. If anyone knows how to wire it up, please let me know, it's doing my head in!
Probably cheaper than a new roof, I don't think it will take another window removal!
Finally managed to get back on the car. December and january were just too cold and wet, hopefully it will now start to improve. The problem with a forced stoppage is you lose momentum and I've now got to find out where all my tools and parts have disappeared to in the garage. The other problem is finding a new starting point.
I decided that the bonnet gap next to the windscreen pillar/door skin should be the next area for attention.
This is the N/S which I haven't yet started, you can see the gaps.
This is the other side, I have already built up the top of the door skin and now want to blend it into the bonnet curvature. I going about it slightly differently, I don't want the alloy strip at the top of the door but am going with a rubber window seal.
Have just used a plastic L section then filled it with GRP paste
Not pretty but you get the idea, here it is after a quick sand but obviously not finished, job for tomorrow.
I will reinforce it underneath with some GRP tape when I next have the bonnet off.
Now Top Tip!
I bought a set of different shaped velcro sanding blocks including a concave one for finishing the top of the wings
Very good it is too but it's handrolick and I'm lazy so came up with a cunning plan.
The top of the block is also hook and loop so it will attach to my detail sanders flat bed.
Makes sanding much easier and quicker!
No pictures today because some numpty put his camera in the boot before fibreglassing it closed. Doh!
My boot lid hangs over the rear panel by about a cm. I had put a slice previously and re glassed it when it was clamped with a couple of ratchet straps but it didn't make much difference.
I came to the conclusion that it may be down to the fact that I have opted for the far superior and better looking internal boot hinges! Nobody else has reported any problems in this area. I took the belt sander to the lip on the top of the boot and levelled it all up plus a bit more so I could try and move the boot lid back to try and make it sit flush at the back. Again a small improvement but no enough.
I then covered the bottom of the boot ld with duct tape to prevent GRP paste sticking to the lid including the return. I then did the same to the closing section (where the striker plate sits). trimmed it of fish to the bodywork. I then built up the rear body section with GRP paste using the lower section of the boot as my guide. Just before it went hard I ran a stanly knife along the join.
It has worked pretty well and now the rear body has exactly the same profile as the boot lid and it has also given me a much better closure gap.
I also built up the passenger door skin to close the gap at the top to allow the fitment of s window rubber.
This gave me plenty of time to continue sanding the rest of the body shell because the GRP took ages to go off due to the cold even though I had put extra hardener in the mix to help it go off.
Lucas L539 lights
Just ordered a set of 6 lights from Tim Hodgekiss for £165 inc post. A pair each of clear, amber and red.
Now that I have them I have found that the clear lens light that was going to be used as a front indicator has a double filament bulb so it can be used as a sidelight and indicator. I'm going to fit this to the rear with the amber lens and will wire up the "brake" filament to the reversing lights, ok they will be amber but better than nothing. I have also wired up a couple of white bulbs into the rear reflectors as reversing lights but wouldn't have bothered if I had know the light had a double filament.
So for anyone else
L539 lights
Amber single filament bulb
clear double filament bulb
red double filament bulb
Slow progress, lots of filling and rubbing down. I have built up the area under the boot lid and it looks much better. I have also given the boot and bonnet 2 coats of reface and rubbed it all down. Very pleased with the result but am not going to say too much in case it all goes tits up when the final coat goes on. Took 1/2 litre to do both panels, 2 coats, doesn't go very far. Almost finished the rear and front sections ready for the polyester coat. Just the bloody doorskins to do which are going to be the hardest. Thought I would leave them to last, if I started with them I might sell it and buy a Nissan Micra!
Boot gaps are better than in the picture but not worth lining it all up and it's going to be on and off more times than a whore's knickers!
Not sure
I bought some aluminium slots to fit the brake ducts when I was at Stoneleigh last year. I have been toying what to do with them. When I opened them up they turned out to be chrome. I had decide to fit the same stainless mesh behind them as is in the front bonnet aperture, I was going to route out a recess at the back to fit the mesh but can't now do that as the are chromed steel.
Plan B
I carefully trimmed the mesh to size and then stuck a 1.5mm gasket around the edge so it would all sit flush and was very pleased with the result
However I'm not sure if I like them on the car
Do they look a bit like a boy racer add on bought from Ebay?
I'm not keen on the bare slots as I think they make it look a bit unfinished
The black behind the grill is my trusty black felt pen!
These fit the same either way round so I can't cock them up. The front duct is larger than the rear and both fit just about perfectly.
Sometimes less is more so was a bit worried that I might be overdoing it.
Getting very close to painting so I need to nail down some details.
Been progressing nicely with my home spraying. Doors, boot and bonnet primed in reface. Have now had notification from next door that they are knocking their house down in the next two week for a rebuild. There is going to be dust everywhere so I need to pull my finger out.
Professional spray both set up in the rear garden (gazebo)
Professional heating system ( gas patio heater)
Full filtration system (fold back panels)
What could possibly go wrong?
Guess the new colour!
Out in the gazebo today, sorry the professional spray booth! A coat of flow coat to the inside of the front clam and a coat to cover the dark blue on the small bonnet. I gave the bonnet a good clean with meths to get rid of the wax from the previous for coat. All looks very much neater. I can confirm that light blue matches very well with green grass and a green gazebo. Someones going to be in trouble when you know who spots it.
I also cut some alloy brackets to hold the grill and grill surround. I have fitted the spots to these brackets so they double up for holding the spots and surround. I now only need 1 small screw in the underside of the surround to hold it firmly.
As soon as the flow coat is dry I will flip the bonnet and give it a couple of coats of reface and am then having a go at priming it before refitting everything to drive it to the painter.
I think I am going to cut the slots in the wing vent and fix stainless mesh behind. Sort of a compromise.
2 coats of Reface on the front clam. I bought a cheap gun from Ebay for about £20 with a 2.5 nozzle. The Reface tech sheet says 2.0>3.0, I have a reasonable compressor with a 150 litre tank but it is hobby rather than pro. It takes a while for the paint to come out of the gun, in hindsight I think the 3.0 nozzle would have been better. Saying that it's gone on ok and is baking now. It was 60f this morning and my small space heater has brought the temperature up in the gazebo to just over 80f.
Now all I've got to do is get the paint of you know who's food mixer before she gets back from work, otherwise i'll be sleeping in the gazebo tonight. Hope to get it flatted down tomorrow and a coat of primer filler on over the weekend.
I was pleasantly surprised by how little filler I had to use, most of the shaping was sanding down the gel coat rather than building it up with filler. Being white it is very hard to see low and high spots so I found the best way was to close my eyes and do it by feel. This can be quite boring so just imagine you are giving Liz Hurley a breast exam. It's surprising how thorough you can be, looking forward for another go as soon as the paint is dry!
