A bit more progress today all the wiring circuits apart from the indicators (new switch needed) are now working
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So I decided to go for a start up filled up the fluids ? nothing no spark I have a Accuspark contactless system installed so I spent ages checking everything then decider to re-read the instructions apparently there can be a problem with the trigger being to low this can be checked by raising the trigger by 2mm and testing for a spark there was so I put it all back together and she fired up on the second attempt yahoo
I phoned Accuspark and they are sending me a upgraded rotor arm with the trigger built in free of charge nice one Accuspark
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I thought I was on the home straight until I noticed the rad was peeing all over the floor and the carbs are leaking from the float bowls and the needle valves
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Oh the joys of motoring new rad about £200 ish carb rebuild kit £90 ish I'll have to start saving all over again I emptied the piggy bank last week.
very true I think I have some brake fluid so I'll bleed the brakes next that shouldn't cost anything???? famous last words!
A small mount of progress this week the rad has been taken for a re-core. In the meantime I decided to turn the car around a couple of friends came over to give me a hand whilst pushing it out of the garage there was a horrible clunking/crunching sound? lots of speculation as to the cause!! to cut a long story short I started stripping down the rear axle took off the off side rear drum and found a retaining spring floating around in the drum no springs missing so some stupid dork left it in there when he was re-building them last time doh !!!!! I managed to bleed the brakes with the help of her indoors no leaks something went right at last.
I have started to make a cover for the heater as it's in the passenger foot well not finished yet but you get the idea
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Had my re-cored rad back yesterday fitted it this morning and filled it up all looking fine until I heard the gentle drip drip of water! after much searching I found the leak coming from water pump union the one that runs under the carbs so I am currently trying to get the pipe of without removing the carbs Agghhhh fiddly as h#!!
Well I fixed one leek and found another(I don't think this cooling system loves me?) I have a MG type dual gauge water and oil but the water sender nut won't tighten on to the sender there must be a fix for it as other people have used them in triumph based cars anyone know how it's done????
The nut actually fits but it doesn't tighten down on the sender it seems as if there should be a seating in the pump housing for it???
Yes but even with the nut as tight as it goes the sender is still loose??
Thanks gents I'll give it a try
Well I Tried all day yesterday to stop my leak and failed miserably so I am now reverting to plan A or was it B? separate oil and temp gauges. and it worked no leaks
so I now have an almost brand new Smiths dual gauge for sale £50 plus postage if anyone's interested?
Hold that sale after trawling the interweb for all of five minutes I found a company that sells adapters for the gauge Holden Vintage & Classics for about £7 plus vat and p&p back to plan C.
I know exactly what you mean and it gets even worst a few years down the road when you need to remember what bits you used!
my adapter arrived today I eventually bought one from Moss Europe.
all nicely fitted with no leaks and my dual gauge back where it belongs.
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I was then able to start her up runs fine if a little bit lumpy but what would you expect from a pair of carbs that have been in the back of the garage for ten years or so? I will either rebuild these carbs or if I can find a suitable manifold (cheap) I have a Weber 32/36 I could use (much easier to setup than a pair of SU's)
My garage is a tin box and can get a little damp condensation etc.
My powervamp battery is now installed and tested I was a little bit worried about it as it is only 20 amp, but it spins the engine and starts up fine even with my doggy carbs.
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The bulkhead was a bit high so I made some card templates off the body and cut the ally to fit [the body is in a lockup about 1/2 mile away good exercise for me apparently yuk!)
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the body should sit on it nicely now?
I have decided to re-modify the roll over hoops again they are too upright and there will be a big gap between them and the bulkhead and it don't look right of course I'll then have to change the seats as well to get a better seating position I'll get it right one day.
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Indicators
Yesterday my new indicator switch arrived off a LHD car but fits and works fine. So today I decided to sort out the auto cancelling. I am using a aftermarket steering wheel and boss there are no lugs on it for the auto cancelling hmmm.
I drilled two 3mm holes
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and then made two lugs also with 3mm holes drilled into them
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these will then be held in place spring with roll pins and pu adhesive or similar and will look like this when finished
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PS I just found a tiny leek from my brake master cylinder
I made this steering column cowl yesterday I will probably paint it black tp match the dash?
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The next job will be my leaking brake master cylinder I can't decide weather to rebuild or replace £10 or£70 Hmmm? I've never had much luck with the rebuild kits? I am planning on going to the Malvern Auto jumble tomorrow maybe I'll find a cheap replacement.
Well I never made it too Malvern (rubbish weather I stayed in bed) so I sent for a new master cylinder which should arrive tomorrow I'll get it sorted this week end. Not much happening then until after Xmas life keeps getting in the way??
I managed to get a bit of work done this weekend I have started on the engine bay panels a bit fiddly to bend as the main panel is big and awkward they will need to be easily removable to access the engine I am aiming for seven bolts? I am hoping to incorporate the inner wing arches into them but if that don't work I will have to make glass arches fixed to the bonnet that close down on to the lip of the engine bay panels? If anyone any other Ideas please let me know.
Thanks
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