Skip to main content

MadaboutKitcars

Build Stories are assembled automatically from a build thread's own author, in their own words and order — see all featured builds.

SwiftyDS's MRS200 Build

By SwiftyDS · 203 updates · Dec 2016 to May 2020

Read the full original thread (with everyone's replies) in the archive →

June 2017

11 Jun 2017, 2:55pm General Update
Sorry that should have been @evo200.com
12 Jun 2017, 1:04pm Chassis and Body Electrics
Retro200 - I had to widen the bonnet headlamp holes but once done the fit with the wing and bonnet top areas is pretty good. I think this is as Andy has said the original ones were smoothed in.
13 Jun 2017, 7:55am General Update
Thanks for the feedback Badrep. I have to give a big thanks to Retro200 who has helped greatly with measurements and useful hints and tips from his earlier MRS200 build.

February 2018

15 Feb 2018, 11:43am Engine Chassis and Body Electrics Interior & Trim
Wow can’t believe it’s nearly 8 months since I’ve posted an update. A garden project then decorating around the house took over for much of July - October then I managed to get a few jobs done on the car before starting again proper mid January.

Progress since last time has been to bolt the rear clam in with brackets that bolt to the support frame and bonded to the clam - also supporting in the roof area. I decided to go this route first then will come back and hinge the clam once I’ve got it roadworthy again. The rear screen has been fitted with dzus fasteners for easy removal and I’m just finishing off the petrol cap - hole cut out and insert fitted from MR2 but have been struggling to work out how to extend the filler tube. Retro200 suggested I just reposition the existing pipe by swivelling it on the flexi pipe and then bracketing it. Any other suggestions?



I also made up the grilles for the rear of the clam which you can seem some of in the picture above. These are attached right now using small black cable ties through holes drilled but may use black plastic fasteners to make them a bit more secure.

I also decided to change the front edge of the roof panel where it meets the windscreen top to give a squarer edge closer to the original RS200. To fill the corners where the hard top panel now shows through I’ve built up with GRP and used a sunstrip applied to a magnetic sheet used to apply removal signs to vans/cars. To complete the effect I’ve used a Sierra MK1 windscreen rubber - see what you think from the pics here but I prefer the look to the original kit where the roof panel flows down to meet the MR2 screen.....


....

....


Final update to report is that both headlamps are now fitted. I played about with using different lamps to the Golf MK2 items as I wanted to mount these behind the cowl (remember I’ve used the cowls from the other RS200 kit available). In the end I’ve bonded a couple of brackets around the edge of the cowl and cut back the Golf plate so these bolt from the inside. The cowls still needed to be bonded to the bonnet but you see the effect here...



Will try to keep the updates coming more frequently now things are moving forward again.
15 Feb 2018, 12:21pm General Update
Thanks Andy - will give that a go this afternoon.

All seems quite from the new guy who bought the moulds - any news on how he’s getting on?
15 Feb 2018, 6:31pm Chassis and Body
Thanks Badrep - yes I will get some other pics posted up tomorrow showing where I cut the roof line and the sunstrip.
16 Feb 2018, 11:43am Chassis and Body Electrics Interior & Trim
Badrep - here’s a couple of additional pictures showing how I marked out the new roof line and built up the sunstrip. I based the roof line as close as I could to the original RS200 (see fourth picture here) but you are left with a couple of gaps in each corner of the roof panel where it no longer flows down to meet the hard top/MR2 windscreen upper rail. For these I made up a couple of rubber fill pieces that I then used to create GRP pieces out of which I bonded to the inside/trailing edge of the roof panel. I should say I had already cut my roof panel away from the rear clam and my pillars were also separate as I had the kit delivered. That in itself made this a lot easier.


....

.....

....


The sunstrip being magnetic just about holds on to the edge of the screen/hardtop and I had intended to leave it this way so I could remove it later as/when the screen needs replacing. I think I may ended up glueing it down as not convinced it won’t flap at speeds over 70!

Nostromo - thanks for the feedback on the screen. I was pleased with the effect and the windscreen rubber whilst only for show (and glued on!) makes a real difference as well. I’m holding fire from hinging my clam right now but have all the hinges/brackets and support work - would rather get all the other jobs completed and it back on the road first, hence I’m bolting the clam in as a first step but making everything like wiring, fuel flap/release such that it can hinge later. As for keeping it clean ... I’ve yet to do any real sanding/prep work on the panels which may explain, but I must admit the old garage dyson comes out after any drilling/cutting of the panels and I’m fortunate enough to be able to work on the car in the garage most of the time .
19 Feb 2018, 8:39pm Chassis and Body Interior & Trim
Thanks Badrep. Yes I think even Andy, the original owner of the moulds, has commented in the past how he wished the bonnet line was longer and squared off instead of following the MR2 wiper/vent area.

I have been keeping a lookout for a cheap Sierra MK1 lower windscreen vent panel to see if I could marry that with the MR2 panel and extend the bonnet up. Probably put that on the phase 2 list along with hinging the clam!

Yep that is a Ferrari in the background - unfortunately it’s not mine!
20 Feb 2018, 10:48am General Update
I’ve done so it’s removable - should work ok looking at pillars and screen too

September 2018

9 Sep 2018, 7:40am Mechanical Overhaul Chassis and Body
A while since I posted an update but as is always the case events take over and progress has been slow.

I’ve hit a milestone in my build in so far as I look to have successfully made the registration changes with the DVLA. A big thanks to Nostromo for sharing with me how he went through the process. The paperwork only went in the post on Wednesday but looking today online it seems to have been processed both the make change (I requested model change!) and the colour change to white. I’m sure the paperwork will be fine when it eventually arrives.



Lots more work to do until it’s actually ready for MOTing but the V5 changes have spurred me on to get moving. Since the last set of updates the rear screen is fitted with DZUS fasteners, the petrol flap and filler plastics fitted and all the spacers fitted to the hubs.

Will keep the updates a bit more frequent hopefully from now on but here’s a couple of pics with it out in the sun to show progress....


....

....

....
9 Sep 2018, 12:39pm Mechanical Overhaul Chassis and Body Interior & Trim
Yes I’m glad I managed to find a used pair of the lights at a decent price. They do come up every now and then on eBay. I still have to fill the light recesses properly on each side of the clam and the rear plinth needs filling either side of the lenses as well.

As you can probably see from the pics I still need to bond the roof panel and pillars (doors as well which still need fettling particularly adding support/strength pieces to the bottoms where the MR2 skins were trimmed back). When I do the roof and pillars I need to try and tidy up the windscreen edge such that the rubber can be fitted and removed (rather than glued/bonded into place) as I’m trying to make it so that the MR2 windscreen glass can be removed/replaced without having to hack the GRP about.

On the wheels, I still think it’s sitting too high. I haven’t got any lowered springs on the MR2 as yet, plus I think when I fit the inner wing panels (a combo of the original MR2 inner wings/splash guards extended with off cuts from black plastic eave protectors, thanks to Retro200 for that tip) the gaps will not look quite so big. Anyway, it won’t look too bad if I ended up with rally stickers/wrap but if I go with just a white paint job it might look a bit naff. That’s the least of my worries for now and can easily be sorted later.
13 Sep 2018, 1:38pm General Update
V5 arrived in the post today form the DVLA. As it appeared when I looked online last weekend the Make has been changed to Tribute MRS200 (no longer any mention of Toyota). I’m fine with this and I guess it’s all down to who makes the updates at the DVLA as to what you end up with. Body type changed to coupe and I’ve also made the colour change to white.



I need to pull my finger out now and get on with finishing it!
20 Sep 2018, 12:33pm Engine Chassis and Body Electrics
For those following Nostromo’s build thread you will know that I have started to wire up the lights, indicators etc on my MRS 200 build.

Everything went smoothly until I came to the headlights which I expected to be an issue given I am basing my build on a facelift MR2 Roadster with separate lights for low and main beam. The issue is that the kit is based on using Golf Mk2 headlights which use the H4 connector/bulb which has a single earth for both circuits. Short and long of it was that both low and high beam circuits were active when low beam was on if you used either of the earths on the H4 block.

A bit of circuit designing with relays finally got to a solution whereby a standard 4 pin relay was used to switch the main beam +ve connection to the H4 plug/connector. For anyone else still working out how to do this on their MRS200 build here’s a rough (and I mean very rough) circuit diagram, but please note that when I drew this the H4 connector is wrong in that the top lug should be low and the side lug main beam.



Everything is wired up now and I just need to go back and tidy up with some further soldering and heat shrink insulation. The only other challenge with the wiring was cleaning up the original rear lights I’d managed to source (RS Cosworth 3 door) which when I finally got to look at the connectors and wiring strips for the bulb holders were very corroded. Here’s a wiring/pin out diagram for rear lights if anyone is still looking for this.



Another impulse purchase to share with other builders....and probably one of the cheapest. I was trying to replicate the original RS200 sill jacking point covers and for the life of me couldn’t find any reference online as to what the originals were made from (rubber or plastic). Mike Noy helped me out (he’s the guy who built the MR2 MK2 RS200 replica which to me looks like one of the most original as a replica) in looking on eBay for plastic plug hole covers ! They are 50mm and come threaded with a backing plate. There’s enough space on the inside of the MRS200 sill cover to attach them and as a bit of light relief from wiring that’s next on the list. Here’s a couple of pics and let me know if you want the eBay link .. easy enough to find if you just search for white plastic plug hole cover.



.....

28 Sep 2018, 6:04pm Electrics
A couple of other MRS200 builders have asked for the 4 pin relay pin outs for the headlight wiring. Here’s a better wiring diagram with the pin outs labelled - note that you need to split the main beam positive/12v feed into pins 86 and 87 on the relay.



Just shout if it’s not clear or you need any further help on this.

Cheers

October 2018

14 Oct 2018, 2:04pm Engine Mechanical Overhaul Chassis and Body Electrics
Steady progress over the last couple of weeks - as you will have seen from previous posts I decided to line all of the bodywork up and bolt on to the various front/rear support bars plus various fashioned brackets along the way before going back around the car and bonding everything on. This gave me chance to line things up first.

I’ve now started with bonding panels on - headlamp surrounds are done with the brackets holding the Golf MK2 lights glassed in on the inner side of the surrounds.



Bonnet hinges adjusted and to get a better fit and alignment where the bonnet joins the sill each side I’ve made a couple of supports out of 8mm Perspex that also serve as a mounting point for the front edge of each sill. They basically push the outer edge of the bonnet out each side just behind where the locking pin is. They still need to be painted Matt black to match the rest of the under bonnet area.



Next was bonding this sills on. They were already lined up with the new Perspex supports and I’d used the MR2 rear wing mounting point and door jam points so this was just a case of unbolting, drilling the holes for the dummy jacking point covers, bonding and then bolting it back on each side. Whilst off I also drilled holes and glassed in a couple of 3mm thick 200mm spreader bars that I’m using each side to bolt the clam to the top of the sill just in front of the rear wheels.



In the picture above the clam is only loosely bolted to the sill area. When fully tightened up it pulls the clam down nicely to the top edge of the sill.

I’ve also gone back round the rear of clam and added a couple more 3mm thick right angle brackets, glassed these all in and these now bolt the back of the clam down to the rear support bar. I will eventually go back and hinge the clam but for now I’m happy to have it bolted in and it’s not too long a process to unbolt it and lift it off. I need to that to paint the inside area Matt black.

All the wiring of the lights is now completed. I decided to wire the Hellas in as the front fog lights which works fine with H2 55W bulbs.



.....



Next things on the to do list are to tidy up the filling around the rear lights and then put aside a couple of free days to bond the door skins and roof panel. I’ve got original Sierra MK1 door mirrors which seem to line up OK but obviously follow the MR2 door profile so are angled up more than the original. I also need to strengthen the window area of the door skin before bolting in the perspex side windows.

I’ve decided to fit an inter cooler and piping into the roof area - one day I’ll get a turbo on it, plus it fills the void quite nicely. I also want to remake the door handle rods before I bond the skins on and use thicker stainless bar as I’m not happy with the action on the handle right now.

That should hopefully take me to mid-November when I’m trying to get it to the point where I can MOT it, and then finish off all the little jobs like painting the inside of the bonnet/clam, fashion and fit under arch plastics and finally do something about lowering the suspension and ride height. My MR2 was on standard springs and original shocks so I’m toying with fitting BC BR Coilovers which I believe can get me 50mm+ lowering on the front and the rear which is really needed to avoid the Baja Bug styling I currently seem to have!\

I’ve decided to focus on getting it ready for MOT and use it a bit on the road before thinking about paint. Nostrommo has done a fantastic job of painting his so I’m toying with giving it a go myself. I’ve already got a quote for 80s themed Ford RS stripes but it needs a base gloss white coat before the wrapping company will do it.



I keep watching videos on YouTube of camper van owners roller painting their campers using Rustoleum. Even found a nice Davrian painted using the same technique in bright white. Just not sure roller painting a car will even look good from 10 feet away! Anyway, that’s for another day.
15 Oct 2018, 9:03am Chassis and Body
Thanks for that - not seen that yet but will take a look now. It does seem like you can get a good finish with rollering if you do 3-4 coats, sanding back each coat. Mixing Rustoleum with thinners seems to be the trick although it can then take quite a while for each coat to dry. Probably a couple of weeks work but may give it a go on some off cuts of GRP from the kit to see what finish I can get.

Paint, thinners and rollers to do the whole car is £100 so less about wasting the money but more having to then get it all off if it looks pants at the end and needs a professional spray job!
16 Oct 2018, 8:14am Chassis and Body
Thanks Mick

IanA - I think if I lay on 3-4 coats rubbing down in between I should be able to get a decent finish. Just not sure about the bonnet and clam panels being such odd shapes I may get runs more with the roller but will give it a go.
19 Oct 2018, 4:34pm Mechanical Overhaul Chassis and Body Interior & Trim
A bit slower progress this week. Tidied up the filling around the rear lights and valance where I’ve used MK1 Sierra lights and started to work on the doors and roof.

I’m making a rear piece for the roof where it was cut off from the clam so it can be bonded at the back as well as the windscreen edge and the door sides.

I bit the bullet on lowering the MR2 and ordered a set of BC BR coilovers. I got some good feedback from a couple of folks on the MR2 Roadster Owners Club forum about how low you can go with these. To my surprise they arrived today when I wasn’t expecting them for another week!



Went for slightly softer springs at 4kg front and 6kg rear.



Need to order some new drop links now and a set of hub to strut bolts / nuts then I can get round to fitting them.
19 Oct 2018, 6:07pm General Update
Thanks Nick. Going for 50mm first all round and mocked that up for what it will look like and looks a lot better. Not sure I will get the rear of the car down to 70mm lower.

My shocks look to be originals and there was an advisory for misting on one of the rears. You’re welcome to them when I get them off if you want to see if they are any better than yours.
21 Oct 2018, 3:06pm Chassis and Body
Only managed an hour over the weekend so decided to paint under the front bonnet in satin black.



I’m still not happy with the filling around the rear lights which I tidied up earlier in the week. UPol GRP filler first then fine filler. Got to the point where it looked great, felt really smooth then I put a couple of layers of white primer on and it looks like the dog has sunk his teeth into large parts of it.



Will have to come back to it and tidy up before final prep for painting later.



Onwards and upwards