I was happy with the outcome. Of course, compromise has to come into it somewhere.
I welded a lump onto the Spit gear lever ( with it out of the car)
Then welded a 1963 Jaguar gear onto that, and fitted a very expensive
"C" Type replica knob to complete it.
t looks very mickey-mouse but works very well . I ripped the handbrake out of my rotten 1964 MK II Jaguar, (which didn't need much ripping it almost fell out) And cleaned it up a bit and used that. I had to make frame for it to bolt to and designed it to fit to an unmodified,already in position handbrake cable.
Doors, bonnets, boots, lock / catch
If it is of any interest to people on a tight budget-build, and I am firmly in that catagory, the locks I chose to use
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came from a store called B and M, (of which there are over 200 nation-wide) and they cost £1.49 each.
I have fitted the bonnet and boot ones already and they work well.
A similar thing at one of these "Euro-shops" would be so much more.
I soak them in oil first, drain them out overnight , then fill them with grease, they are nickle plated any way, so will last virtually for ever.
Hope this helps someone!
steering wheel
I can not resist posting a picture of the wheel which will complete the build
(One day far away!)
It is a genuine Moto-Lita as fitted to the racing D types, and the XKSS's too.
It came from a humble Triumph Herald 1962 vintage. I have seen these new, (very pricey) but this one has all the age related patina and little nicks, and is obviously quite old, so should really look the part.
The 1962 Herald boss is different to my 1972 Spit, but half an hour with the drill sorted that one out.[IMG]
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I know he does, he's helped me before, and I know you do too. I'm
happy that I'm in good hands, which is why I'm here.
Thank you for the helpful comments.
One last thing, I've been doing my repairing of cracks,bonding of brackets etc with Isopon P40 Paste from Halfords at about 12 quid for only
600 grams.
I saw some advice for "Bonding paste" 5K for £20 or so.
Do I go for this? and is it as strong as the P40 stuff, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.
will soon be getting to the bonding body- to- car stage and this stuff sounds good, is it?
Hello to Mr Towed and WCA!!
Well we have a fine row going on here then!!
At first MR T, I thought you were taking the p, as I have never ever seen a rack mounted with the flap at the front, but what you say is logical for sure, however, if decapitation is the price to pay for a good looking car, then so be it!
WCA, you are correct,in that the D type had a kind of post box slot at the rear in order to post the spare wheel in.
And the XKSS was the same, but this is a good example of where compromise steps in. I wanted a large useable boot, which I now have, in order that I would not have to carry decapitating luggage!
That is exactly the type of compromise I am willing to allow. ( for me personally, practicality wins over originality )
So you see I am not a purist!!
Could someone please give me some advice on the following:
I posted this text earlier, but so far had no replies
Quote:
One last thing, I've been doing my repairing of cracks,bonding of brackets etc with Isopon P40 Paste from Halfords at about 12 quid for only
600 grams.
I saw some advice for "Bonding paste" 5K for £20 or so.
Do I go for this? and is it as strong as the P40 stuff, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.
will soon be getting to the bonding body- to- car stage and this stuff sounds good, is it?
Unquote
Thanks for the positive comments WCA.
The red car looks terrific, when do you actually take possession of it?
I understand Chris took it to the show where the car was the star ?
Hi Oxford 1360,
Thank you for the info, I will follow it up.
Like you, I don't really fancy messing about trying to mix stuff when I seem to have so much else to do.
Thanks again
Recent advice
Thank you Fatbloke and Tribute for the advice which I will follow up.
Today was a low for me, I felt I was not doing enough work, I had lost direction, the weather was against me, I was never going to get this car done etc etc. I expect you chaps have all been through this, but it was new to me.
Then a friend came to see me and suggested we put the body on the car.
The car by the way, even in its shit state, starts and drives.
Anyway it only took 10 minutes, and and JC! what a happy MF was I!!!
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Thanks for the encouragement Paul, I could really have done with it sooner, but you were not to know!!
Hello Redratbike
This'll put a smile on ya face!
didn't have that many clamps, and went out and bought extra ones just for this one job!
I bet I will never ever use them all again, at least not in one go.
As I said to (I think it was Paul) three years ago I had an unfortunate bust up with the other half and she had to go, I live in my house with my 14 year old son, joy of joys! Its like a second childhood! I can do what I want, bash holes in walls, build sheds where I want, no nagging or hassle!!
I am much more relaxed and happy now.
Of course that's not the answer for most people, but it worked for me.
Thank you so much for the positive comments, at first I though I was being a bit pedantic and over the top on some things, but after some thought I knew exactly what I wanted and decided to go for it.
Judging by all the comments, it seems to please a lot of people including myself.
So to all of you undecided guys out there :
GO FOR IT!!
Redratbike, forgot to answer your main question, am I full time on it?
Kind of yes and no,
I try to do something on it each and every day, the other day it was a one hour job making two little flared 10 mm pipes (3 inches long) and sticking them one at each side in the boot lid rain channel as drain holes.
Another day I may (and have) get carried away and work almost none stop ( no other half to get in the way, another positive!) for around 11 or twelve hours, but when I do that I know I've done too much, and it takes it out of me physically. I become so focused,I don't stop to eat or drink
until I fell shitty due to low blood sugar levels. I know all of this is wrong
but that,s how it is with me. So if there are others who can identify with this, You are not alone!!
Mr Towed,
I've had that Spit vid on my pc for ages and I still hit your link and watched it again.
I thought that thing on the dash was the fuel filter?
Also wondered why it was there?
I thought it wobbled about too much to be viscous brake fluid?
I had a Robin Hood couple of years back and the lowest point underneath was around 2.5 inches, it hit the rear lower suspension regularly and wore it away so much I had to weld it back to build it up. I welded two steel skids, one each side to help it "slide" when it touched the road, that worked quite well.
The "lowering it 2 " more " bit was obviously a FAILED attempt at humour!!
That Rover is my every day wheels and I have another ( in fact I have two) Rover engines with turbos lying around
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[/IMG]Mister Towed,
I was interested in what you put about you lowering, and how you approached it. quite brave stripping the spring and all!
My donar when stripped (and light) had crappy looking positive camber, and was too high.
I took the spring out de [IMG]
[/IMG]rusted, cleaned and painted it, put it back in, then it occurred to me I should have dumped a 1 inch lowering block in there at the same time!
I was basically too lazy to take it out and do it again, so I took both vertical links out, sandblasted them drilled two extra holes about 1.8 inches lower down, complete with welded in washers, which had the affect of bringing the spring eye down. I was very pleased with the result.
Rover T16
Hi neemo,
post me some pics, it sound great, I've always been a T16 fan.
Greatly under rated engine, some say better than cosworth.
There is a company on the internet that takes one down the strip and it produces 900 BHP
Can't imagine that power in a Rover 25!!
