A long evening....
Made reasonable progress this eve. Cut the new boot lip down to size, and filled and faired it. Trial fitted the old seal, then trimmed up the boot lid and inner moulding. Put them ib position the added a couple of self tappers through the two so I can glass them together in exactly the right place.
As the body was off filled and faired the vents behind the door pillar. They will be seen from the inside so have filled over the grp and faired it in.
A bit mire work to the rear vents, doubling the thickness of the cut edge ti make look mire substantial.
Finally did a bit of tweaking to the l.h. door shut so it will match my chosen seal.
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Good sticky session this eve.
Put a border of timber around the vents and glassed around them. Put a few mire layers around the door shuts, added some woven rovings to the arch so when one looks through the rear vents it will have the carbon look (will paint black!).
Chopped of the rear flange left over from moulding and glassed in a small one up the otherway to stiffen the rear valance a bit.
Finally glassed in three strips of 6mm ply to the underside of the roof to space off the headlining and give an air gap.
Thanks Lambo-dave, I will drill some holes, but want to fit the exhaust first so it misses it. Thought it was too tricky to mould a hose tail to into the gutter, but its not to late to add them so I may. To knackered this eve though!
@ Froggyman, thanks, I thought no-one was watching!!
Sort of aiming to get the rear upholstered then shell fitted early next week.....
@ Chris, thanks Chris, praise from the Messiah!
Have you managed to piece your A352 jigsaw back together yet?
@ Andy, do bear in mind that I have done far more GRP work than is actually nessercery. There is no need to do any major work to the standard Tribute kit, it just fits perfectly and once its bonded and riveted on there is no real need for more GRP work. The only reason I am tweaking the kit is because I have my own idea of how I want it to look. There are penny of ways to skin a cat (apparently, I have never tried!!), and just like most kits, they all end up a bit different.
There are quite a few grp laminating guides on YouTube.
I agree with Peeps. I have had a look at the advert, it looks far to good. What you need is a scruffy mx5 that is covered in dents, but as little rust as poss on the rear of the sills. The rear arches all get covered so even those can be poor and just trimmed and welded up.
You can get very good mx5s over here for 750 GBP!
Another few hours this afternoon and I have dry fitted the glass to the rear. The hole in the car is the size of the glass less 6mm, so I taped it in place, marked it out, then marked out 6mm smaller. After cutting out I checked the rubber fitted.
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Also had a final cut and sand of various new bits of GRP , tidying up the door edges, fitting the headlining etc. So glad to finish that as the dust is horrid. How do you cope with it Chris??.
Finally ran wires for two extra interior lights and the heated rear window. Taped in place then stuck them in with a lodge of polyurethane sealant. It would be REALLY annoying if they were to rattle!!
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@ Tribute....keeps the birds off!
@ Peeps....I prefer not to fumble in the dark
Quick go this afternoon. Sanded up the roll cage and sprayed two coats satin black. Also splashed a bit around the inside of the vents.
when it was time to go my 'instant spray booth had covered up the lightswitches so it was a fairly chaotic exit![IMG]
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He was al' white before I started
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Week 4......and not alot has happened due to serious dose of Man Flu. Not able to cope with the evening sessions!
Fitted some 6mm ply to the rear.
made a patten like this......uding a hot melt glue gun to hold the pattern together...[IMG]
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Transferd it like this.....
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The ends were done buy rough cutting a bit of ply then using the boatbuilder method to take a patten. A small piece of wood, parraelle sided, is used as a 'dummy stick' to transfer a mark on to the ply (spile board). Then to transfer the marks fix the ply Patten to the finished ply and using the dummy stick again reverse the process. This method is used for everything from planks to locker bottoms, and can be mm accurate.
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in this case it nearly worked!
Back on form now thanks Froggy, crash diet. Spot the difference....[IMG]
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No, try again.....(your on the right lines)
Edit......
No, minus 2" each side. Now I dont need wheel spacers!
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Shrinking the second side. It was a ''deep breath and cut" moment!
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Hope to have the rear on by this time next week, with a finished interior.
Have new plans for the front...
@ Chris, did you have to stretch the initial/original mould for the Supra, or did you mould from the finished Supra??
No, dont want one, I was just trying to understand the evolution of the shape.
Glad you like the narrow version. I reckon I could have taken out 3" per side and it would still look good.
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On advantage is it makes the mid section between the wheels (panal after door) 2" longer too.
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Cut, taper outside edge one inch each side of the join to a feather edge. Support, then 3 layers csm. Remove body, clean up inside and glass two layers. Replace body, grind off excess glass to just kiss the original gell then either add more glass or gell coat over. Fill and fair ad infinitum.
Works for boats!
[SIZE="4I quite agree, apart from the clever bit! I f I fitted the kit as per your instructions Chris is would be ready for spraying by now[/COLOR]"][/FONT][/SIZE]
Well that didn't work, did it!
I won't mention the flip front either!
Feels like not much done this eve. Rear tray screwed and stuck on with polyurethane cobsructional adhesive and self tappers. I also added a bit of grp up the sides as I hope to bond these to the roof section.
Final fit and fix of the rear tray, again on poly, with ss bolts and penny washers. I also put some stews through the bottom of the tray and into the metal strip that is above the abs. Bumper thing.
I blanked of the lights and old petrol filler. Trying to keep the boot reasonably air tight.
In between that I did some filling and fairing on the lower parts of the body shells cos its easy to get to whilst upside down.
Maybe didn't do so bad after all. Well I've had a beer now
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Bolted the roll cage/stiffner in this eve. It drops in really well and when bolted up feels like you could lift the car with it. Very solid.!
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Laminated a couple of layers of 3.5mm ply around the rear where the hood used to be. Something to to mount the upholstery on.
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I also wanted to know what the inner sills were like, so peeled back the bottom of the rear wing. Cleaned out all the rust but glad to say no holes! Treated with Fertan and will paint and close up tomorrow.
Right now time for a kebab
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Head lining
Had a heady afternoon with the sticky stuff, contact adhesive.
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Using the half n half method so it goes in the correct position.
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Using 3.5mm foam backed vinyl.
Uses loads of adhesive....3" brush...
Thats the big but done, now for the edges...
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I like this shape
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[SIZE="3"]To do the edges I stripped the foam off where the door seals will grip it to reduce the thickness.
Went around the door shuts and rear window.
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The louvres will be covered with 5mm tinted perspex, which I have cut out, but not fitted.
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[SIZE="3"Finally slotted it all together. Its held up by slotting into the front lip and the sides run above the door shuts so its a good firm fit.
[COLOR="DarkOliveGreen"]Tomorrow is B day (bonding day)!
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