MadaboutKitcars

So, next up is the re-installation of the window lift mechanisms and windows.

First, I washed out all the old grease and generally cleaned up the mechanisms. I then re-greased all bearings and gears. The original builder had already modified the mechanisms with the new upper stop plate and removed the lower stop plastic insert as per the build manual. I then fitted new plastic wheels (thanks, Mike) and liberally coated the wheels and the runners with new grease.

Window winder mechanism installation by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


Then, following the build manual instructions I fitted them to the door and windows. The instructions worked fine for the drivers door but for the passenger door I couldn't get the wheels on to the window runners. I ended up dismantling the mechanism from the plate, fitted its wheels to the window runners and then installed the plate afterwards. Not easy but it is just possible to install it this way.

Window down.......

Window fitted - down by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Window up............

Window fitted - up by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Both mechanisms work fine and appear to stop at the right places although I won't know that for certain until the doors are re-hung on the car.

All was fine until I realised that I had forgotten to fit the chrome strip to the passenger door
All I can say is it's quicker when you've done it before

Until next time, stay safe........

.......peter

Not a lot of garage time over the last week or so, but I was keen to tick of a couple of items of my task list.
One quick job on the list is to fix a label specifying the type of brake fluid which is required for the IVA.

Brake Fluid Label by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This is a little bit of 'belt and braces' as the little yellow symbol on the brake reservoir cap should be sufficient but it is a little bit faded and I didn't want a potential failure point for the price of a sticker.

Next, having used the 'new' chrome strips on the doors, I decided to swap the chrome strips on the bonnets to match. I made up some more modified fixing screws but then realised the new strips didn't have any holes for the bonnet catch pins. Luckily, I had found the pins in the box of bits that came with the car.

Bonnet Catch Pin by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

With the strips in place I could drill the holes for the catch pins through the bonnets.

Bonnet Catch by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Very pleased with the end result now they are all in place.

Not exactly huge progress but it's nice to cross another couple of items off my list.

Until next update, stay safe...........

...........peter

Hi Amir,
thank you for your feedback and I'm glad you enjoy reading my updates.
May I also wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy and safe New Year.
Let's hope we all get back to some kind of normal in 2022!
cheers, Peter

Not a lot happening in my garage at the moment but I do have one more update for this year.............(to follow....)

One more update....

Not a lot happening in my garage at the moment but with six grandchildren I've been kept busy helping Santa getting ready for Christmas.

But I have just time for one more update...

Call it a bumper Christmas edition , if you like......

Way back in the first Covid lockdown back in May 2020 (remember that?) I worked on the centre consul but I never got around to putting the pictures on here. I started with this from a Ford Sierra that I picked up from ebay for a few pounds.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It didn't really fit the Sabre but it had a useful armrest and cubby hole/storage compartment. So, I cut two pieces of plywood and balanced the armrest on top to see if it looked okay.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Happy that it looked okay. I carefully cut the plastic storage compartment from the old Sierra part and fitted it between the two plywood sides.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Trying it out with the armrest which is hinged to the cubby hole.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then cut two more sides to double the thickness of the sides and curved the top edges.
I then made up a piece of plywood with a slot for the handbrake and an aluminium plate to take the window switches.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then filled the screw holes and smoothed all over. Followed by a coat of quick drying clear varnish.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

To cover it in vinyl, I started by making a brown paper template. I was keen to cover it in one piece without a join.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The shape of the brown paper template was then transferred to the back of a piece of cream vinyl.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The vinyl was then cut to shape.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then started gluing with contact adhesive from the back face.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This is the adhesive I used from Woolies.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This is part way through the trimming and gluing.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Looking good......

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Lining the storage box was very tricky with glue getting everywhere.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then covered the handbrake gaiter cover.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then covered the switch plate and fitted the switches.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then re-covered the armrest with some closed cell foam.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Progress so far. I need to cover the armrest in vinyl and make a gaiter for the handbrake.
Something for another day when the weather is a little warmer.

Centre Consul/Armrest by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


Well that's all folks for 2021

I'm back!

Well after Christmas and the new year I took a short break from car building to carry out some important home improvements. Still got lots to do but my New Year resolution is to 'finish' my Sabre this year, so I better crack on ......

So, I was back in the garage this week tackling something I wasn't really happy with last year.....
Whilst browsing the internet over Christmas I came across these motorised door lock mechanisms. There are multiple sellers on ebay but this set cost me just

Remote door locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And for an additional

Remote door locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And for an additional

I'm back!

Well after Christmas and the new year I took a short break from car building to carry out some important home improvements. Still got lots to do but my New Year resolution is to 'finish' my Sabre this year, so I better crack on ......

So, I was back in the garage this week tackling something I wasn't really happy with last year.....
Whilst browsing the internet over Christmas I came across these motorised door lock mechanisms. There are multiple sellers on ebay but this set cost me just

SECOND TRY, STILL NOT WORKING>>>>

Aaaaaaargh!!

Sorry folks but this website is broken and it's not possible to post without multiple tries and editing.

JG can you take a look at what's wrong?

'Preview' works fine but when you hit the 'submit reply' it looses most of the post'

Let's try again..........

Well after Christmas and the new year I took a short break from car building to carry out some important home improvements. Still got lots to do but my New Year resolution is to 'finish' my Sabre this year, so I better crack on ......

So, I was back in the garage this week tackling something I wasn't really happy with last year.....
Whilst browsing the internet over Christmas I came across these motorised door lock mechanisms. There are multiple sellers on ebay but this set cost me just j

Nope still not working..............

I normally draft my updates in the comments sections of Flickr where I store my pictures. I then cut and paste into your site with some editing, etc. I've being doing it like this for years without a problem.

But your right about the pound symbol as that is exactly where it is truncating.

I will try again.....

thanks, Peter

I'm back.........

(Ok, trying again without the pound sign)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well after Christmas and the new year I took a short break from car building to carry out some important home improvements. Still got lots to do but my New Year resolution is to 'finish' my Sabre this year, so I better crack on ......

So, I was back in the garage this week tackling something I wasn't really happy with last year.....
Whilst browsing the internet over Christmas I came across these motorised door lock mechanisms. There are multiple sellers on ebay but this set cost me just 12.95GBpounds including postage which I thought was a bargain and worth a punt.

Remote door locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And for an additional 11.36GBpounds, I could add this remote control box and two rather nice control fobs. The box has a number of features including flashing the side indicators when you lock or unlock.

Remote door locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

They have been sitting on the shelf for a while so it was time to try them out and see if they work.
They are pleasingly well made and came with clear wiring instructions and have a good strong action. They were easily fitted in the Sabre's door and work perfectly.

Remote door locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I now have the other door to do and to fit the interconnecting wiring. I also need to find suitable locations for the control boxes.

I've also tested my windscreen washers and wipers against the requirements in the IVA manual.
Bizarrely, you have to simulate the washer jets being blocked and check that the washer pump doesn't fail!
The wipers are required to have two speeds.
One has to be at least 45 cycles per minute. The second has to be between 10 and 55 cycles per minute and at least 15 cycles per minute different to the first.
Mine passed, phew!

So a good start to the year and next week I'll be fitting the locks to the second door....

....peter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Post posting note: well that worked fine, thanks John

Yes, the ones I got are nicely made and not too bulky. This is the ebayer I got them from but he seems to have raised his prices a little since I got mine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154653518796

Inching forward.....

I've now completed the installation of the second remote door lock.

But...
I had noticed that the coolant level in my reservoir had been dropping slightly and initially I thought it must have been an air lock in the heater that had cleared. But then it dropped again so time to investigate and I found coolant around and below the radiator cap. I ran the engine up to temperature and sure enough it was leaking from the radiator cap, especially after you switch the engine off as it cooled down.
Upon investigation the metal spring under the rubber seal has lost it's springiness so it is not making a good seal under pressure. It appears that the temperature has annealed the spring which is not good as I have only run the engine about a dozen times.
The faulty cap on the right is made by Aeroline and is to be avoided. I've replaced it with a Quinton Hazell cap and hope this one lasts longer.

Faulty Radiator cap by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Another little job......
I've never heard of anyone failing their IVA on wiper arms but these stainless steel blades and arms do have some quite sharp edges so I've covered them with a short piece of clear PVC hose. 5 minute job to avoid a potential issue.

Wiper arm cover by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Next up, I'm making some panels which will cover the ECU that is mounted in the passenger footwell. These will be sealed and covered in carpet.
Here's the first panel.....

Under dash panelling by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Until next update.............

.............peter

Cooling off again........

Further pondering on my radiator cap problem I reached the conclusion to eliminate this type of cap as they are not really designed for this application. The flat valveless caps were designed to be used low pressure overflow tanks and not pressurised systems like mine.
I have reverted back to a design I successfully used on my Marlin Sportster.

Revised Coolant design by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The small bore coolant pipe now goes from a take off from the top radiator hose to the header tank. The BMW coolant sensor pipe had a spare port lending it to the new design. Unfortunately, it initially clashed with the oil filter casing so I had the move it to the right by 20mm. This meant sacrificing another new BMW top hose.

Revised Coolant design by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I put a couple of rivnuts into intake manifold's webs to support the small hose clips.

Revised Coolant design by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The 'flat' valveless radiator cap has now been swapped for a traditional 20 psi rad cap.

Revised Coolant design by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've also fitted the radio/heater part of the dashboard.

Heater/Radio fascia by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The radio and heater controls will be fitted after the IVA test. For now there is a single switch that controls the heater control valve to switch the hot coolant going through the heater.

that's all for now..............

.........peter

Something different...

This week, I fancied tackling something a bit different so I thought I'd have a go at fixing the hub caps to my wheels.

I'm getting near to the point of getting a set of tyres for my wheels and thought it would be easier to fit the mounting studs for the hub caps before the tyres are fitted. It's much easier to put the bare wheels on the bench for drilling holes, etc without the bulk of the tyres.

I decided to use grease nipples for the mounting studs which is an idea I am copying from other builders.
I chose these 45 degree grease nipples to mount the hub caps to the wheel. I chose these as they have a good shape to match the edge profile of the hub caps and a deeper shoulder than the standard grease nipples.

Hub Cap fitting by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


It looked like the tips would unscrew but that turned out not to be the case. I initially tried hack sawing the tips off but this left a nasty scar across the body. I then found drilling them out left a nice clean finish which I filled with a blob of epoxy resin to stop any rusting.

I marked out the positions and then drilled and taped a m6 threaded hole. I did a dry run on a sheet of steel to get the positions right. After trial fitting the nipples, I screwed them in with Loctite threadlock and finished of with paint on the back to seal.

Hub Cap fitting by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Here's the first one fitted. A nice tight fit and unlikely to fall off.

Hub Cap fitting by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The hub caps are for a Singer Super 12. I need to make or find a suitable tool for removing the cap without scratching the wheel's paint finish.

Well that's one done and I now need to do the other 4 wheels......

Next week I've got some new gates to fit so next update in about 2 weeks, hopefully


....peter

Great idea, I'll try one, thanks.
EDIT: I've tried one now and it works a treat.

Well, the gates are fitted but not a lot of progress on my Sabre but here are some bits and pieces I've done.

Going back to the door lock electronics, once you've connected all the wires up, there ends up with quite a jungle of wires between the two door locking control modules so I have mounted them on this small panel and hard wired the connections between the two.

Remote door locking control by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The small one is for the door locks and the larger one is for the remote radio fobs. With hindsight I should have mounted the fuses further downstream where they will be more accessible, so I'll probably end up changing that. The panel is just a piece of thin plywood that has been coated in exterior stain to seal it.

You can't see it, but the control panel sits out of harms way here between the inner and out door sills here.........

Remote door locking control by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I had some more bits chromium plated as the original plating was either worn, tarnished or in poor condition. Technically, I didn't need to get the door stays chromed but it was cheaper than zinc plating for just those two bits. The hood locking escutcheons weren't plated at all originally.

Chromed parts by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've loosely fitted the door lock striker. To be adjusted when the door is fitted.

Door lock striker by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

For those who may be interested, this is the back of the door lock striker showing how the bracket is fixed to the chassis 'B' post.

Door lock striker by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

That's all for now..................

................peter

No I don't mind you asking. The collection of small parts (shown above) cost me 140 GB pounds plus VAT. The door parts were previously zinc plated but had rusted so it must have been poor. The bar at the bottom is the chrome strip off the boot and is about 2 foot long. It sounds expensive but these parts had to be stripped and then polished before the chrome plating. The quote process is interesting as the guy stares at the parts and then does some mental arithmetic before coming up with the price.
Previously, I had two quarter bumpers (that had rusted badly) and four light plinths re-plated and that cost 260 GB pounds plus VAT.

Bling by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've been very pleased with the quality of both jobs.

Here's a clue....

Here's a clue why there has been no updates lately..........

My other project by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

New art studio for my wife.