This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
Firstly Looks like I am going to buy a welder within the next couple of days but whats the differance between mig and arc I only need it for a couple of jobs and b&q have them for £50 which will weld upto 7mm thick is this any good? What else will I ned to buy apart from viser?
Secondly for the type r builders I am on with the wiring and just checking that I am correct in assuming I only use 7 wires from the ecu e connector and 12 from the wiring harness plug as there is a lot spare which I presume are for alarm, a/c etc
A mig welder has a wire fed through the gun where as arc uses a stick which burns down as you use it. Mig is the easier to use, but arc is used for thicker stuff.
A Mig welder is the best option but make shore you get a CO2 gas one the no gas ones are next to useless and get some proper welding gloves cause the sparks that are emitted when welding hurt like hell on unprotected hands
As for the wiring Q i will get me mate that is doing me wiring to see if he knows the answer
Cheers Jerry! I have managed to get quite a bit of the front end wired today but do have wires on the loom which I can't fathom!!!!!!!!!
Also the ignition has 7 wires coming out of the switch but on the loom only 3????
Just wish I had a double garage now having no where to put body when I work on the car
Do you have a electrical diagram for the honda? If so, if you can post the pictures of the ignition switch, then I'll have a go at decrypting it for you.
Hi John, thanks for link not sure if it has helped though as I have never used a multimeter
I do not have an electrical diagram for honda just for the ecu wiring but everything else on the car is rover.
I think that my ignition is slightly different to others I have seen as it was purchased new and others I have seen have had tails soldered on to ignition but mine are all multi plugs!
I have 2 plugs which are attached directly to ignition the main one has 7 wires coming from it colours brown/red yellow brown/purple red green black/yellow and white/red
The other plug has 2 wires and they are grey/red and purple/pink
My marlin loom has 4 wires and they are brown green green and white but marlin only have 3 listed on there loom I seem to have an extra green, the white wire is only 0.5mm!
The only thing that I could think of about having two green is that they should be fused together to take exta load but if so the wire would have been thicker in the first place as on a few thing now I have had an extra wire above what the loom states
Firstly Looks like I am going to buy a welder within the next couple of days but whats the differance between mig and arc I only need it for a couple of jobs and b&q have them for £50 which will weld upto 7mm thick is this any good? What else will I ned to buy apart from viser?
Secondly for the type r builders I am on with the wiring and just checking that I am correct in assuming I only use 7 wires from the ecu e connector and 12 from the wiring harness plug as there is a lot spare which I presume are for alarm, a/c etc
Cheers
Craig
MIG for £50, or arc? I'd be very wary of any welder for sale at that price, as it'd most probably be "buy cheap, buy twice".
As Jerry said, if it's gas-less MIG walk away, as you'll only manage terrible welds (they'll look like chicken poop) which you won't be able to trust. At the very least I'd say a 130amp MIG with gas, and ideally get an argon/co2 mix, as excessive penetration can be a problem with plain co2.
I've been on a steep learning curve with my welding on this project, and the biggest transition in my welds occured when I switched from hobby bottles to a proper bottle of gas with a decent regulator.
I'd say a welder is one of those tools, which you'll think "damn that's expensive", then once you've bought one you'll struggle to understand how you ever got things done without.
Not sure about the wiring question, as I've stuffed my box of wiring headaches into a corner in the garage while I get everything else sorted properly.
Incidentally my driveshafts should be with me by the end of the week......... hopefully they'll fit perfectly, and then all I'll need to do is find a driveshaft bearing to replace the cracked one that was on my donor - not an easy task unfortunately.
If you want, can you send me your ignition switch? On the rover you could unplug the multiplug. That way you have the ignition switch with wire and the end of the multiplug. That way I can meter the connections out and let you know what goes where.
Is there any labels on the back of the ignition switch?
On the Rover for example, there was bat1, bat2, ign1, ign2, start, etc.
On the marlin loom:
The two greens you connect together. Then connect up to ign wire on ignition switch. This supplies two switched supplies to the marlin fuse box.
The white is for start. This connects to the wire on the starter motor.
The brown is for perm +. This connects to the bat on the ignition switch. The other end connects to the battery via a fuse. I've just discovered a handy fuse box for the back. The little fuse box in the engine compartment of the Rover 216. It can be used for the fuses for both perm lives (Brown and Purple wires), engine management Relay (on Rover anyway) and fuel relay.
Hi John , that is an extremly generous offer and I may take you up in it but am thinking that this is not going to be the only time I get stuck with the electrics and probably need to learn how to use a multimeter lol!!
I can't see any labels on switch but am thinking that if the 2 greens are fused toghether than maybe the brown just connevcts with brown and green with green but white for starter motor hhmmmm this wire is only as big as a hair seems odd there must not be much current flowing through this?
What setting do I need on multi meter to test switch (sorry if this question is ignorant but have never used one?)
When I get home this evening, I'll attach a file with this thread. You set you meter to ohm (if it has buzz set it to this). Then starting with the key at position 0, start with one wire say brown/red, then while one pin from the multimeter is connected to this wire, connect the other lead to each of the other wires. See which wire while connected to brown/red "buzzs" or shows near 0 ohms. Filling in the matrix like the file I'll be attaching (It will make sense I promise). Then move onto the next colored wire and repeat. Once all is done, switch key to position one and do it all over again.
Hi John,
I really need to update my web site its soooooooooooooo out of date.
But thanks for the link buddy I'll put yours on mine when (if) i get around to it!
hurt 