This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
That is some nice bhp numbers you got
___ bhp / ___ lb/ft torque
I will let you fill in the spaces
Dam i need to spend some money on me engine now just to keep up
Interpro Sunday I made 270 BHP and 280 ft-lbs torque.
This was with 1 bar of boost (14/15 psi).
The dyno op comment was "very very good but something is strangling it" to which I replied "have a look at the exhaust"..."it's the same as on the 1600 K-series versions"...
Stronger clutch cover, GT28RS turbo + 3" exhaust system required!
I'll take her off the road now probably until March next year. There are still several areas that need improvement on the car.
Chassis (as you asked Sconcia).
The rear x-brace will be replaced with a box section x-brace that will be much stronger and I'm welding it into place. Also the chassis has a weak spot that is the area around the engine mounting points. A new box section beam needs to be added here (each side) to brace this point back to the rear lower beam of the cabin. You may recall that Marlin offered a free issue pair of beams to resolve this issue several months ago.
The biggest problems have been engine alignment and engine mounts (which were useless so I have designed new, and modified existing) v.s. driveshaft angles and position. What a nightmare that has been. It's resolved now.
I too have found that the best driveshafts are diesel on BOTH sides. The lateral position of the engine is critical to prevent driveshaft knock and CV boot destruction!
I should update my web site over the winter months with my solutions/ideas that I hope will prevent a lot of hassle for the T16 guys.
I had a look at Andy's car (and a spin ). They are using the k series mounts on the chassis to bring the short drive shaft in line. But the engine is at a diagnal as the timing mount is slightly more forward. Could do with having this moved back a bit.
