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I decided to seal the floor in place first and then put the rivets in once the sealant had gone off. That way I am not trying to set 40 rivets in a short time.
Seems to have worked OK. I have started setting the rivets but I found my ancient spiralux rivet gun wasn't really up to the job (well it is 25 yrs old) and so I have ordered a new industrial strength one (Gesipa) to finish off the first fllor pan and to fit the second.
I would recomend sealing the floors in first then doing the rivets - but I would also recomend the use of less sealer then I used! On the plus side at least it will be watertight.
While I have been waiting for my new pop rivet tool to arrive so I can complete the floors I have been doing a redesign of the fuel system. ... Pictures here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/martinclan/pictures2.htm
Looking good, after flaring the ends of the copper pipe on mine at the back its stopped leaking, but im still very much thinking of running some aeroquip front to back to reduce the number of joins. The less joins the less likely it will be that there is a leak - also reduces cost of clips!
While I have been waiting for my new pop rivet tool to arrive so I can complete the floors I have been doing a redesign of the fuel system. ... Pictures here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/martinclan/pictures2.htm
Hi Robin,
Interesting design with combined HP/LP return.
Any reason for not using the Marlin supplied swirl pot?
Your right about costs, I spent a small fortune on reducers, adaptors, hoses and clips.
Any reason for not using the Marlin supplied swirl pot?
I bought a Marlin swirl pot but I don't like the fact that it sets next to the greatest source of sparks- ie the battery! I am surprised that the SVA don't fail it to be honest - but they probably dont have a rule for that bit.... Also it's not really a swirl pot - its just a buffer tank.
The FSE swirl pot looks like a much more professional bit of kit with proper unions and it has a built in filter. The combined LP/HP return is recomended by FSE and I have seen it used succesfully on another BMW Marlin (at Stoneleigh).
If anyone wants a Marlin swirl pot I have one going cheap!!!
I note that Marlin mount their swirl pot, not only next to the battery, but also directly above the exhaust manifold, which is definately an SVA exclusion point.
I moved mine across to the inlet side which makes a lot more sense with the fuel hoses, etc.
Providing the battery connections are not sparking and the fuel is not leaking, I should be OK !!
New pictures with left floor fitted (no mess this time) completed heater and fuel system at rear of car. Pictures of fuel system at front of car coming tomorrow...
Few pictures of final tweeks to pedal box before fitting it for the umpteenth and hopefully last time. I pratted about with fitting return springs and in the end decided not to bother. Only time will tell if this is the right decision...
Close now - but I think I will sort the problem with the rear spring hangers first as that is likely to involve welding and once I have fuel in the tank that's probably not good. Still - hopefully not long away now....
Close now - but I think I will sort the problem with the rear spring hangers first as that is likely to involve welding and once I have fuel in the tank that's probably not good. ....
Engine bay REALLY is finished now. Wiring also well under way. Centre console fitted with re-cycled BMW switch gear and (hopefully) the solution to my non-aligning rear bump stops.
Very nice Robin, I like your switch gear mounting, very clean!
Richard didnt get the hoses before xmas and on inspection one of the trailing arms was defect so he's waiting for a new one. We have a rear left trailing (near side) spare with a damaged U joint (going for free if you still need one)
Richard didnt get the hoses before xmas and on inspection one of the trailing arms was defect so he's waiting for a new one. We have a rear left trailing (near side) spare with a damaged U joint (going for free if you still need one)
Thanks Patrick - but I think I can manage without "doing a trial" now. I have looked at the spring plates closely and they just seem to be spot welded to an area of the trailing arm that is flat. It should be relatively straightforward (lol) to remove the existing plates and fit my new ones about 1/2" offset.
Cheers
Robin
PS going to look at a 318ti this w/e in Reading 33k miles and fitted with the lux pack - only problem is it's green...
No problem Green, you could always wear those yellow safety glasses and it would appear to be a different colour
Did you get anywhere with looking at having adapters made for the brake master cylinder/server pin? I'm about at a point were I'll be bolting that up for (hopefully) the final time.
Did you get anywhere with looking at having adapters made for the brake master cylinder/server pin? I'm about at a point were I'll be bolting that up for (hopefully) the final time.
No - sorry haven't got any further. My brakes aren't quite finished yet and I was going to wait and see what he pedal felt like one the system was filled.
Your sealing and riveting the floor? 
