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A topic that crops up often in the build threads is what is required to pass SVA for certain parts of a build so thought it a good idea to compile a list of SVA requirements for each area of a build such a lighting, brakes, external fittings etc.
There's quite a few of you guys going through builds at the moment and a few that have gone through SVA so together we should be able to compile a comprehensive list covering a typical kit car build.
This first post will contain the edited list so that it's always on top for reference so if you can just reply on this thread I'll then edit this first post to include your SVA points.
Disclaimer: [COLOR="DimGray"][SIZE="2"]The points below are included from peoples experience of getting their kit car through SVA. The list is not meant to be exhaustive or to be regarded as gospel as it seems the different SVA testing centres interpret certain aspects of the test differently from station to station[/SIZE].[/COLOR]
[COLOR="red"]UPDATE
Madabout now has an SVA Knowledgebase section which has many Q&A style facts about SVA
Will keep adding to it (especially with IVA coming) but if you see any errors or see any areas not covered please let me know in this thread.
Many thanks, John
Madabout-Kitcars.com[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]Braking System[/COLOR]
Brake fluid level warning indicator viewable by driver
Handbrake on warning indicator viewable by driver
Handbrake lever will be subject to radius edge checks if above the hip of the lowest seated occupant
[COLOR="Blue"]Electrical[/COLOR]
All lights need to be 'E' marked or display equivalent standard markings
Rear fog light should be positioned in the centre or the offside (drivers side) if only 1 fitted, minimum of 250mm from the ground.
Indicators should be a minimum of 350mm from ground level.
[COLOR="blue"]General construction[/COLOR]
VIN number should be between 8 - 17 characters long but can be made up by yourself.
VIN number should be stamped into the chassis (a chassis plate on it's own may not be accepted)
Wheels/tyres should not protrude beyond the bodywork, ie no wheels sticking out further than the wheel arches
[COLOR="blue"]Engine[/COLOR]
Make sure you have proof of your engines age so the appropriate emmissions test is applied.
[COLOR="Blue"]Fuel/Exhaust[/COLOR]
Exhaust tailpipe should have a rolled radius end if protruding beyond bodywork.
If any part of the exhaust is positioned directly underneath or in very close proximity to the petrol tank then heat shield should be used to deflect heat from the petrol tank.
Great thread, one question thats come a few times - do rubber clutch/brake pipes need to be marked in anyway to pass SVA? I've just used some fuel pipe so I'm wondering if thats ok.
Hi folks,
There is no need to have a handbrake warning lamp as such for the sva test, what you do need though is a test facility that the driver can operate from the driving position, to test the low fluid level circuit for the reservoir. This is where the handbrake warning lamp is utilised by wiring it in with the low level circuit. Otherwise use a readily available clearly marked switch on the dash for this function.
HTH
Mark
Hi folks,
There is no need to have a handbrake warning lamp as such for the sva test, what you do need though is a test facility that the driver can operate from the driving position, to test the low fluid level circuit for the reservoir. This is where the handbrake warning lamp is utilised by wiring it in with the low level circuit. Otherwise use a readily available clearly marked switch on the dash for this function.
HTH
Mark
Hi Guys.
So what Ken has done I don't think will be any good as I assume Ken has not wired into the low fluid level ciruit lamp.
It wouldn't be a difficult task to get it working now though.
At the end of the day, needed or not for SVA it doesn't do any harm having a handbrake 'on' warning light and in a 'production' type car such as the Phantom wouldn't be out of place at all.
Wired in to the low level warning light so that's o.k. then. Reason it took so long was routing the wires as the loom was 99% finished and then puting a 2-wire plug and socket in the circuit because of the way it had to go and anything had to come out when everything was finished. As it turned out I only needed one wire to the handbrake switch as even though the handbrake is mounted on the fibreglass body it had an earth path back along the handbrake cable
Another quick couple of questions - my wheels and tyres do stick out from the body 10mm front 3mm rear. I intend to form some wheel arch extensions with lightweight filler but this is a job penciled in for after SVA so how can I bodge something in the mean time ?
Also my engine came out of a right-off so although I know the engine number and the age of it plus the number plate of the car I havn't got a V5 with any of these details. Is this going to cause problems ?
I have a similar problem Ken. The way I intend to get round the problem for SVA is get small width wheels. For example, my standard donor wheels are 6x15. Which stick out slightly. So I will borrowed some 5.5x15 from the breakers for SVA. The SVA requirement is load and speed rating for the tyre compared to the donor I think.
As for not having a V5 and donor reg, you will I think need to go for a "Q" plate.
I read somewhere it should be on drivers side (can't remember the reason's why). And when you look at production cars, there usually on this side I've noticed.
Hi limpabit, I was like you under the impression that if only one foglamp then it should be on the drivers side - hence LHD on the left and RHD on the right. However when I noticed that some cars, the Peugeot 206 for example has the rear fog in the middle so I checked and the law was changed and now you can have two or one and I found the little snippet below on the Cheshire Police Website and reads:-
"Rear fog lights are obligatory on a vehicle first used on or after 01.04.86. They must be red in colour and must not cause undue dazzle or discomfort, must not be lit whilst vehicle is parked nor to be used except in seriously reduced visibility.Where two are fitted both must work. Where one is fitted it must be fitted to the centre or the offside of the vehicle. They must be clean and in good working order.The driver must be able to see the lights are on by way of a visual indication (warning light) inside the vehicle".
Question about the VIN.
If there is very litle of the chassis showing where the VIN could be stamped would it be acceptable to bond a plate (with sikaflex or tiger seal or something similar) to the fibreglass bodywork or maybe engrave the number into the fibreglass ?
