MadaboutKitcars

Just wondering why the Tribute kit keeps the front clip opening as per the Z3, while the DNA version does not.
It is due to future engine or accessory component access?
What could crop up if it just relied upon the bonnet opening?

Unlikely you'd ever have to do it but if (big if) the servo goes you are well and truly knackered on the DNA kit.

Guess Tribute did it for ease of build - just bolt on, no bondo to mess with

For my two new pennies worth, having really good access to the engine and front suspension components with a flip front end is invaluable:

If you're doing your own servicing, repairs and replacement of worn out parts then everything's much easier with proper access from a flip front, so you'll save yourself a lot of time and grazed knuckles.

If you're paying someone else to do your servicing, repairs and replacement of worn out parts then, for the same reasons above, they'll need less time to complete each job, saving you money.

Win, win.

That really became apparent to me when my clutch failed while the car was on the dyno. I'm so glad I didn't have to squeeze my ruddy great straight six out of an opening the size of a fag packet in the middle of an expanse of fibreglass bonnet -









The DNA kits seem to be going mostly to pro's who churn them out as turn-key cars for people with very deep pockets who don't worry too much about paying through the nose to have the oily bits maintained.

Tribute, however, charge a fair bit less for their kits so still attract people who build and maintain their own cars, so appreciate the importance of having good access to the mechanical components.

You pays your money, you takes your choice.

I think Chris has the perfect bonnet. Small traditional bonnet that looks right and then a full opening front end for maintenance. Best of both worlds.
If i was building the DNA 2fifty I would split the sill at the front of the door so that the whole of the front end could be removed, or better still hinged using the z3 bonnet hinges and also a hinged small bonnet.

Thanks for all of the great input.

Having had so many VW based kits as well as a couple of early P cars, I understand the need to have the tenacity of a leach with the reach of a large octopus for doing anything to the plugs.

I've had no experience with a Z (or even a BMW) yet so I've not even got the layout of all of the accessories in my head yet.

Looks like it would be a good idea to replace the servo on a DNA kit or a Tribute kit if you decide to 'stick' the front end down.

Another question, of the 6 cylinder engines, is there one to avoid / go for? Obviously the M has the most power (though I've read that it has maybe too much for the strength of the chassis and can cause some of the metal work to split) but as far as engine reliability and accessories, is one better / best avoided than any other?

Thanks again to all for helping with my continued education!

Thanks - that's a wonderful looking car!

All the six cylinder engines are fine. The M 3.2 can start ripping the boot floor apart though.

There is an article in this months Classic and Sportscar where they review the Z3 coupe and describe the issue and what to look for. A useful article go know what to look for when buying I guess as most points are relevant for the soft top Z3 as well.

I have the 2.8 and I wouldn't call it a performance car, adequate is probably a fair description. I can't imagine the 3.0 is much different and I certainly wouldn't go smaller than the 2.8.

I have a friend in the car trade and he sells quite a few Z3's. He will only buy 2.8/3.0 as he says all the rest are a real challenge to sell.

I agree that the 2.8 is nice and tourque biased rather than screaming power. Suits the cruising nature of the Z300s nicely.

Having said that, I managed to keep up in fast convoy I joined in with across France to Le Mans Classic running with a Ferrari F612, Aston Vantage and Maserati GTS. When we stopped for coffee they were eager to know what the engine was and really surprised it was just a 2.8 as it was still pulling strongly at 100-120mph

100 - 120mph, bit of a contrast to earlier that day !

I would think the six cylinder cars have enough go in them, whilst the smaller 1.8 / 1.9 engines are lacking in power and refinement at all levels.

Thanks for all of the advice

I have a car for speed, but wouldn't want to be embarrassed having something that looked like a classic F car but struggled to keep up with a school bus...

I just had the chance of a panel damaged 1.8Z for about £750 ($1000) but think I should a, do a bit more research into which kit to buy and b, look for a 2.8 or an M. They are starting to drop in value in the US too finally!

I watched the prices for the last year, they dropped off at the start of winter and dropped again at the end of the winter around early March. There were so many available at that point the market was flooded. When the sun comes out in March everyone tries to sell at the same time ! Prices started to rise mid to late spring and peaked around June / July.

Thanks - that's good info to know. Maybe March time would work better for me (I have a three car garage and four cars at the moment and it was -20F this weekend (-37F with windchill) and another 10inches of snow over the six inches we had last week).

I'm also keeping an eye out at my local auctions. They seem to get a few through that are minor panel damage for peanuts.

This made me smile - not everyone made it 'in' before the Minnesota winter started...

Not something you see every day!

Is that one of those e-type bananas?

No, surely it's a chilly dog...

Ha ha ha

Brilliant!