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I've taken on board the comments regarding keeping notes and photos of the progress of developments, new and old, on the forum and have done something about it.
As of now, I've appointed my lad, Andrew (Yes it does get confusing with both of us having the same name!) as 'diarist' and he will be responsible for following me around with a camera and writing additions to this thread regularly about what we are up to. (Think of him as the 'Watson' to my 'Holmes').
It's something of a cruel task really as unfortunately he will never be able to drive one of our cars due to his sheer size (6'7" and build like a brick outhouse) but he's keen and will be playing an increasing role in the company's dealings, on and off the forum. Some may have already met him but for those who haven't yet, he'll continue to be with me at any shows we attend.
First post due soon. I can feel him creeping around the workshop as we speak
I met little Andy Junior at one of the shows last year when Gary launched the Cordite. At least he can help move cars around the workshop - he should be able to manage two in each hand.
When time and business success allow you could consider building him a one-off single seater. A spaceframe chassis with a central driving position and a Spyder body bonded on top should'nt be too hard to do for an ex Appo, surely?
OK, so it's probably more of interest to those who live up here in the frozen wastelands of the North West but having had a pleasant meeting with the Manager of the Ribble Pilot pub, we've been invited to show our own Ribble Pilot Demonstrator off at their 'Family Day' and the annual 'Riversway Festival' with local press interest.
A couple of tasters before the lad gets his teeth into the thread.
I mentioned the modification of the moulds on other threads but a couple of photos to illustrate this:
Blanking off the 'Hump' on the Navigator mould. THis is nearly finished now, as is the Pilot mould. The hump is now to be sent as a separate item with the kit so the builder has ultimate choice over its position.
The door void is also being blanked off:
Work continues on the Navigator demonstrator. Although doorless, it does retain a single hump and will be wearing a half tonneau and bar.
I've been playing with engine access too. As a 'tall guy', even the hinged front is somewhat restrictive and if all I want to do is to check the oil and water levels, seems overkill. To this end, I'm mounting the front on a set of locking pins on top, a dzus at each sill and a single screw at the front accessed through the grille. Daily access will be through a conventional bonnet but heavier jobs can be done by taking the whole front off in a matter of minutes.
Looking good. I like the move to a semi-fixed bonnet with access hatch. You could have different hatches to suit your mood - big scoop, small scoop, etc..
The move really came about after seeing bonnet edges flapping about and the desire to hold them down more securely. It probably doesn't need one big hatch either. As long as the dip stick and radiator filler were accessible on a daily basis you could get away with a couple of very small flip hatches similar to aircraft access panels. (Though I do like to have a brief Shufti around whilst doing those jobs)
The move really came about after seeing bonnet edges flapping about and the desire to hold them down more securely. It probably doesn't need one big hatch either. As long as the dip stick and radiator filler were accessible on a daily basis you could get away with a couple of very small flip hatches similar to aircraft access panels. (Though I do like to have a brief Shufti around whilst doing those jobs)
I did think about putting a hinge on my secondary scoop to give access to the radiator filler and dip-stick. Ultimately though, it really isn't that difficult to flip the whole front forward for full access. Bonnet pins to hold the trailing edge of the bonnet down at speed are necessary though, and maybe even a couple of vents to let the air out and stop it 'balooning' might help.
When time and business success allow you could consider building him a one-off single seater. A spaceframe chassis with a central driving position and a Spyder body bonded on top should'nt be too hard to do for an ex Appo, surely?
Yup, it could be the only way (Sorry lad, I just had to post this one!)
And now the news and we start with the great experiment!
We have been working with the premise of trying to put a body over some of the existing donors body (obviously cutting away the windscreen, the boot, rear wings and temporarily removing the fuel tank) and putting the Navigator body on. This it seems works brilliantly as you can see below!
[COLOR="Red"]It's taken less then two days from driving the donor in to putting the body on![/COLOR]
Building this way means the builder doesn't have to play around with a frame unless his/her donors body is rotten. So buying a good donor will take less time building your kit as buying a reasonable donor and doing a traditional build. In keeping the 'tub' you may also keep the original windscreen and the roof (soft top and hard top for when the weather isn't so great). We are going to be dehumping and possibly blanking the doors off also
Also in the news, AndyP57 has continued redesigning the moulds for Pilot and Navigator by 'dehumping' both and blanking off the door on the Navigator (as you have already seen he's beaten me to it by uploading a couple of pics!).
This is a very crude 'concept' mock up I have done on what a Navigator may look like dehumped!
Unless I have forgotten anything (which I am sure AndyP57 will fill in gaps) I think that is all until next week
The "speed build" is a great idea. Are you able to keep the dash without touching it. It will appeal to some that the interior is ready-made and that there is no need to disconnect electrics.
Top work, chaps.
The "speed build" is a great idea. Are you able to keep the dash without touching it. It will appeal to some that the interior is ready-made and that there is no need to disconnect electrics.
Top work, chaps.
Yes the dash is still in place. I think there was a little modification but AndyP57 will explain what that was.
I like the idea of the fast build for those who don't have the time and resources for a traditional build.
To fill in, Obviously we've taken the same 'tack' as the Tribute guys 'next door' in cutting sufficient Donor away to fit the Navigator body over it. This, in effect means taking away the boot walls and floor along with the outer rear wings. The only part of the dashboard taken off is the 'Crash Pad' which comes off with the removal of 6 nuts. I also took the windscreen wiper spindles and motor away. The actual instrument panel is untouched and has not had anything disconnected. In this way, no electrics other than the lighting circuit has been affected and the pedals and brake circuits are similarly unaffected.
Not a build concept for everyone but if the tub is in good condition, it makes sense to retain as much of it as possible. This helps with floor pans and of course the ?!**?! Hand Brake
By the way, it's currently taken about 6 manhours and we're near ready to bond the body on
nice too see you working things out .... but i have to ask...the new car s.. pilot ..navigator.. one fits a spitfire ..is the second body style too fit standed vitesse / herald chassic is that right ... as the spit /gt6 are not as long in the chassic...... are u make in one with doors to fit herald/vitesse and do they look much like the old sammio ie [ bonnet and body ] the same just need to no for us guy s who are still going to use vitesse run in gear just getting a bit confused with new names .....and yes andy i got your email thanks:
Hi Phil, No worries. The cars aren't new, just the names. For the Herald/Vitesse model that was the Spyder (Now the Pilot), the ONLY change will be that the hump will be sent separately so that the LHD orders won't mean cutting the rear deck about (And also allows the Twin hump look to be easily achieved). The Navigator is essentially the Cordite with the same treatment to the hump and doors closed off (The builder can cut a symmetrical pair to suit themselves).
We're also taking the opportunity to clean and repair the moulds where necessary.
You know I think the "Tribute" cut down body shell approach is an inspired idea.
Compared to the alternative frame work approach, this makes much more sense.
It removes so many of the problems I'm facing that I can only weep knowing I sold my tub.
Although you mention removing the boot, I assume you kept the boot floor to bolt the silencers to?
Also does the sanding marks mean the drak blue "rattle can" paint job is being re-done?
Not so much news as a question to all of you regarding frames.
I've no intention of completely discontinuing the frame idea in lieu of the 'cut down tub' approach as I see that as an alternative if your donor tub has enough life in it, but for those needing a frame, if you were given a choice of being supplied a completed frame or having a set of drawings available (Maybe as a download from the web site or this forum) so you could make your own, what percentage of you would opt to DIY against those who would pay to have the frame supplied?
Note that this in no way implies that I'm thinking of not supplying the frame in the future, just gauging the demand.
Constructing ones own frame from scratch is fine if youare experianced and can produce proffesional quality welds
The difference between blobbing something together with a budget MIG and producing smooth fluid welds with the correct level of deposition and penetration. Unfortunately, you will only find out how good your welds are when you have crash, and your welds fail
. The result could be being speared by bits of box section, or, when. Your seatbelt mounts fail, being speared on your non collapsible steering column....
I dont want to br prophet of doom here, but I did a City and Guilds welding course about 26 years ago, and after 26 years regular practice l know I still have room for improvement!
This observation is not meant to be negative, just my own observations.
The other issue is that any bodyshell has to be perfectly symmetrical to match a possibly symmetrical frame, and visa versa. Can of worms here.
Andy has already stated that the option to self build would not replace the option to buy a factory frame, im happy with my welding and have crash tested it on the race car on a couple of occassions with no visits to hospital :-), horses for courses i think.
