This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
What are your thoughts on shortening the BMW handbrake cables. I've seen a few ideas on the various build sites and wondered if a consensus has formed about the best way to do it.
I'm guessing that there can be a fair bit of force when the handbrake is used in ernest so there needs to be a good secure fixing to the lever after shortening. How have the various methods used held up in practice. Any thoughts appreciated.
What are your thoughts on shortening the BMW handbrake cables. I've seen a few ideas on the various build sites and wondered if a consensus has formed about the best way to do it.
I'm guessing that there can be a fair bit of force when the handbrake is used in ernest so there needs to be a good secure fixing to the lever after shortening. How have the various methods used held up in practice. Any thoughts appreciated.
Many thanks
Nigel
I used a very sharp cold chisel to shorten them. I then made up some new ends from some steel rod. Drilled a hole up the middle and then silver soldered the cable in place. It is as good as the original one and is a lot simpler than it sounds. Drilling a 4mm hole up the center of a 6mm rod was the tricky bit but not impossible....
I previously tried crimping the new ends in place. Mission impossible (for me anyway)
Hi Nigel
I used Patrick's solution but with 2 grub screws. Sorry this picture not great quality but you get the idea: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33105452@N05/5189332028/
I chopped the end off a suitable size bolt, drilled a hole down the middle and then drilled and tapped 2 holes for the grub screws. It took a couple of goes to get it right but it seems to have held so far.
Car still in Caerphilly - bypassing the immobiliser is taking my man longer than expected...
Tim
Don't ask me why... The chassis isn't any longer than other sportsters, the hand brake is in the same place as everyone elses.
After installing on the arms and running the cables through the Y tube / guide thingy, I passed the threaded end of the cable trough the eyes on the brake leaver and screwed on a couple of nuts on each cable.
IIRC, I may have chopped a little off the threaded portion to ensure it didn't poke through the gaiter, but I didn't have to shorten the cables them self.
Hi Nigel,
I bought new cables from GSF. I shortened them by following the instructions in the Marlin build manual.
Like Robin, I used a cold chisel and the BFH but do mind where you point it!
Mine are shortened at the brake shoe end and I've not had any problems.
I've taken Tim's approach. I invested in a pillar drill from Lidl...... (Yes, Lidl)....... a few months back. They opened a new store locally and one of there opening offers was a silly price on a pretty good quality piece of kit.
So it's now been christened for real. I used a 100mm M6 bolt, cut the head off, drilled a 3mm hole down the middle of it, drilled and tapped a couple of holes for M3 grub screws, extended the thread on the bolt to about 75mm and have trial fitted it. So far so good. let's see what it's like when I apply some tension..................
I used a bolt with two grub screws and some epoxy, however the wires pulled out after a year resulting in an mot fail. Have since ground a half circle into the bolt and welded the wire into the bolt, now it's not coming out again!
Not tried this yet but am about to.
I need to shorten a handbrake cable and am about to contact [url]www.southernrigging.co.uk[/url] who are only a few hundred yards from my office.
I am pretty certain that with their sailing and architectural connections they must have a good method.
As a (sometimes) sailor as well as a kit car builder I can say that's a pretty good idea - you are lucky being so close to a rigger! They should have a proper machine which can put on a swaged end - very similar to what the OEM would have done.
Interesting visit to Southern rigging. They do not stock parts that match my MGF/Rover 800 cables but they have options that would be a good alternative.
Biggest drawback is that all their parts are stainless steel and in combination with a standard handbrake cable could be a site for corrosion.
If some 'raw' standard steel parts can be sourced then this problem could be overcome.
