This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
Having agreed a price with the bodyshop I started to remove the body from the car today.
It strikes me that putting the bonnet back on will be a real pig. How on earth do you do up 50 odd M5 cap head screws without slipping once?
I have started by opening up the holes a little to 5.5. At least this should allow for the paint build up and allow the screws to move a little easier. Does anybody else have any advice? Should I use nylock nuts or plain nuts and locking washers? Nylocks are a real pain once the thread has passed through the locking bit.
Just carefully run a drill through the painted holes. I did my dome-headed bolts up using a small variable speed drill. Make sure that the hex drive is fully seated before starting the drill.
Take your time.
I managed to make the following cock-ups when reassembling my cabrio.
1. Scrape a front wing/ running board on the garage wall when turning a corner.
2. Drop a rear wheel arch while truing to get a bolt through an un-cleared hole
My rear tub is re-fitted after fitting the fuel filler and hood fixings. It went on again with no drama and all the fixing holes and bumpers lined up with no problem. Much easier to fit these with the tub off the car but terrified I was going to scratch the new paint. It is still very soft. I'm leaving the wings off untill last for fear of scratching them in the garage.
The doors took a little longer as the thickness of the paint was enough to upset the original settings. I had the re-make the spacers behind the hinges and had to take out about 2mm from the thickness. Again, slow progress being careful not to knock or scratch the new paint. The finish on the outside of the doors is perfect but the car will go back to the painter to finish the inside of the doors. But now they are back on and making the familiar click-click.
The scuttle is in place but not secured. The A-post covers will need packing 'up' by 1-2mm to clear the top of the doors. (for anyone else i'd advise trimming these back to increase the clearance to the doors before painting).
Next week, A-post covers, dashboard and maybe the nose cone....
My rear tub is re-fitted after fitting the fuel filler and hood fixings. It went on again with no drama and all the fixing holes and bumpers lined up with no problem. Much easier to fit these with the tub off the car but terrified I was going to scratch the new paint. It is still very soft. I'm leaving the wings off untill last for fear of scratching them in the garage.
The doors took a little longer as the thickness of the paint was enough to upset the original settings. I had the re-make the spacers behind the hinges and had to take out about 2mm from the thickness. Again, slow progress being careful not to knock or scratch the new paint. The finish on the outside of the doors is perfect but the car will go back to the painter to finish the inside of the doors. But now they are back on and making the familiar click-click.
The scuttle is in place but not secured. The A-post covers will need packing 'up' by 1-2mm to clear the top of the doors. (for anyone else i'd advise trimming these back to increase the clearance to the doors before painting).
Next week, A-post covers, dashboard and maybe the nose cone....
Good tips - I am going to check my A posts tonight for clearance. I have way underestimated how long it takes to strip the body panels - I am still at it after two weekends. The problem is that I keep finding the odd little bit that needs fettling...
I am surprised that the paint is still soft. Is it 2 pack? I thought that the chemical reaction meant an almost "instant" hardening with this sort of paint?
I am surprised that the paint is still soft. Is it 2 pack? I thought that the chemical reaction meant an almost "instant" hardening with this sort of paint?
Robin
Not sure? I just know it's very soft when drilling out to clear holes. I know it's made up of three coats all different shades/colours. The top coat, which is an almost clear lacquer, has a bright pink pigment. My painter was surprised but once on it doesn't look bright pink.
Quick update... (I hope Robin doesn't mind me hijacking this thread but it seems silly to start another)
A-post covers fitted and scuttle now bolted down. Nose cone and side bonnets re-fitted. Bonnet hinge polished, re-fitted and one top bonnet bolted to the hinge. (boy my back aches!)
Slowly getting there.....
I have just collected my "body parts" handing over a rather large lump of folding stuff in the process. Car won't be ready for stoneligh so here's a sneak preview.
Colour is a lot darker than it looks in the picture. It's called wine red and that pretty well describes it!
How's the re-assembly going?
It takes a long time, doesn't it!
...peter
Paint job is OK - but not exceptional as I hoped it would be given their reputation. Some areas (where it wont easily be seen) they have been lazy and not compunded the paint so there is some orange peel. And the finish on the inside inside of the doors is very poor - they have made no attempt to do that properly. They also managed to fill the holes on the outside of one of the doors (for the tonneau fastners). They want me to take the car back for a final polish so I shall be discussing these few points...
Rear tub is on. Seats are in and doors are on. Everything has gone back together Ok except fitting the seats. They were already a tight squeeze and the new carpet I chose, which has a rubber backing, made the tight squeeze even tighter!
Next job scuttle top and dashboard.
A question for all those that have their cars painted. Did you glue on the bonnet rubbers? - those that fit between the bonnet ends and the nosecone one end and the scuttle the other. I found mine use to move out od position sometimes - but I am a bit loath to stick anything to my newly painted finish.
Some areas (where it wont easily be seen) they have been lazy and not compunded the paint so there is some orange peel. And the finish on the inside inside of the doors is very poor - they have made no attempt to do that properly.
A question for all those that have their cars painted. Did you glue on the bonnet rubbers? - those that fit between the bonnet ends and the nosecone one end and the scuttle the other. I found mine use to move out od position sometimes - but I am a bit loath to stick anything to my newly painted finish.
Robin
Hi Robin,
I had similar problems with my doors and some other bits. I can't blame the guy because once all the bits are off the car it is difficult to understand which bits show both sides. He assumed I would have door cards like a normal car. He sorted it all out when the car went in for its final polish without any complaint. He completely refilled and painted the inside of the doors.
Reference bonnet rubbers, I haven't glued anything at this stage.If they move too much i'll proably use a few bits of doouble side tape which is less permenant.
cheers
Well - finished the re-assembly and back on the road again! I'll post up a picture or two when I have chance. No scratches in the paint that I am aware of although there is a mystery mark on the spare wheel cover. The advice I was given about tightening the bonnet screws with a small electric screwdriver was a great tip!
I can confirm though that:
1. Changing the servo for a brand new one has made sweat f.a. difference
2. I can hear the radio when moving up to about 60mph!
3. The whining diff is cured (not really but I can no longer hear it with the boot area filled in and a big chunk of sound insulation on the boot floor!).
Like London Buses .........and then come two fabulous finished Sportsters in one week.
Welldone to both Peter and Robin.
Are you both going to show off your pride and joys at the Newark show in June?
Mike
