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TVR/Land Rover/Sprite Hybrid Taking Shape

22 Mar 2010, 9:00pm
Started the project at last, dragged the chassis in the garage, lifted the body off and then started to bolt bits on.
Not quite as quick as that might suggest but I've managed to locate the Jag diff in the chassis and bolt it to it's carrier, just need to get some new bolts to secure it propperly and then the rear suspension can go on.

Here it is as was in the road before I dragged it in, it's bolted to an old boat trailer for ease of shifting about, the body is in my avitar. I'll get some pics of the lot soon as and try and explain what I'm trying to do.

23 Mar 2010, 7:35pm
Didn't get time to do anything today but took some pics to show what we are at..


Body slid forward so as I can work on diff and rear suspension


A look down the chassis into the engine bay


That's the diff in


Looking down on side of body/chassis - this is how much has to be cut off the width.


Some idea of what we have body wise
24 Mar 2010, 8:41am
Wow. I can see its a Sprite body, but which bits are/will be TVR and Landrover?
24 Mar 2010, 9:23am
Chris Cussen wrote:
Wow. I can see its a Sprite body, but which bits are/will be TVR and Landrover?


Good question....
TVR chassis and running gear - Land Rover engine, electrics, headlamps, and anything else that will fit - topped off with the Sprite plastic body and badges.
The body was left over from an abandoned 'Banham' project, the TVR also left over from an abandoned restoration project and the Land Rover will supply lots of bits and bobs to get the mongral up and running.
Hope to have it running by mid summer.:bolt:
24 Mar 2010, 9:26am
I'm guessing the chassis is TVR, and the engine will be a big 3.9L V8 Lump from a landie. Which is pretty much the same engine that they put in TVRs! :)

[Edit] - looks as if I was right! :lol:
24 Mar 2010, 10:24am
Yes, right you are.
The engine is a 3.5 on carbs which I think is better, there was a rusty Essex V6 in the chassis so I'm hoping that the V8 will fit and that I can find a suitable gearbox cheap as I'm on a tight budget.
Only decided to do this as I have most of the bits and rather than put it all on fleabay I looked at it and thought....I can build this and have a lovely car for not a lot of money.
Only real problem being that the chassis is about a foot longer wheelbase and I'm not sure what it will look like stretched.
24 Mar 2010, 10:43pm
Weighed the body today and it's about 38 kilos. That's me stood on the scales holding the bonnet and then deducting my weight, same for main body. Suppose I will have to weigh the doors as well but they are pretty light so with dash and clocks and fixing brackets I should get away with 60 kilos.

That's all I did today as waiting for new bolts for suspension as the metric ones I have wont fit. The originals were AF so going out tomorrow to get some propper british bolts, if not I could locktight the old ones on.
25 Mar 2010, 7:18pm
Old suspension bolts are UNF and I am having trouble getting new nuts.Got suspension out from under rubbish today



Try again tomorrow:icon_smile:
25 Mar 2010, 10:28pm
GreatOldOne wrote:
Well, you'd need a thread pitch gauge and something to measure the bolt diameter. A vernier or digital calliper would do for the later:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32198

and you can get thread gauges here:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23483

You may find them cheaper on eBay - my digital calliper only cost me a 50p (but I did have to wait for it to come from Hong Kong).


Thanks for that, I have micrometer and a vernier and a thread gauge but it's a case of all the gear and no idea.
for instance, If the shank is 12mm then would that be a 12mm bolt or m12?
Then what is the method for finding out the size in UNF? as the bolt is I think in between metric sizes.
26 Mar 2010, 8:27am
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/TechData/IDENTGID.PDF
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/techdata.htm

Measure the diameter of the bolt in question. If you believe it is imperial, set your vernier to measure in inches.

Then measure the TPI to identify the thread used. Then order the new ones from Namrick.

Of course, if you replace the bolt and the nut, it's much more simple. Just get the correctly sized imperial bolt, with matching nut.

If it's about 12mm, but 12mm is too small, then I'd guess it's a 1/2" diameter bolt. But measure just to be sure!
26 Mar 2010, 9:10am
Both UNF bolts and Metric bolts are offically identifed by the diameter of their shanks.

The table below gives the imperial name (e.g 1/4) the reading you should get on your imperial micrometer and it's metric equivilent in mm

Imperial Fractional mm
1/8 0.125 3.175
3/16 0.1875 4.7625
1/4 0.25 6.35
5/16 0.3125 7.9375
3/8 0.375 9.525
7/16 0.4375 11.1125
1/2 0.5 12.7
9/16 0.5625 14.2875
5/8 0.625 15.875
11/16 0.6875 17.4625
3/4 0.75 19.05
13/16 0.8125 20.6375
7/8 0.875 22.225
15/16 0.9375 23.8125
1 1 25.4

Sorry about the odd formatting, the sapces between the columns seem to have been reduced to a single space
26 Mar 2010, 9:42am
GreatOldOne wrote:
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/TechData/IDENTGID.PDF
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/techdata.htm

Measure the diameter of the bolt in question. If you believe it is imperial, set your vernier to measure in inches.

Then measure the TPI to identify the thread used. Then order the new ones from Namrick.

Of course, if you replace the bolt and the nut, it's much more simple. Just get the correctly sized imperial bolt, with matching nut.

If it's about 12mm, but 12mm is too small, then I'd guess it's a 1/2" diameter bolt. But measure just to be sure!


Chris Cussen wrote:
Both UNF bolts and Metric bolts are offically identifed by the diameter of their shanks.

The table below gives the imperial name (e.g 1/4) the reading you should get on your imperial micrometer and it's metric equivilent in mm

Imperial Fractional mm
1/8 0.125 3.175
3/16 0.1875 4.7625
1/4 0.25 6.35
5/16 0.3125 7.9375
3/8 0.375 9.525
7/16 0.4375 11.1125
1/2 0.5 12.7
9/16 0.5625 14.2875
5/8 0.625 15.875
11/16 0.6875 17.4625
3/4 0.75 19.05
13/16 0.8125 20.6375
7/8 0.875 22.225
15/16 0.9375 23.8125
1 1 25.4

Sorry about the odd formatting, the sapces between the columns seem to have been reduced to a single space


Thank you both, I'm sure that the information will help others also.
I'm off to a local small shop 'tucked away in the back streets and smelling of oil' to see if I can just buy the locking nuts.
If not I'll get the measuring stuff out and order on line.
Thanks again chaps, I can get on with it now and maybe see some progress.:icon_smile:
26 Mar 2010, 8:52pm
Couldn't get UNF locking nuts so decided to use large washers and tack weld them to mountings and tab them over when the old nuts are torqued up.

Fitted 12 poly bushes today, that's the back end nearly bushed up. Had a bright idea to remove the old and then fit new bushes. Threaded Rod and two big thick washers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Out with the old



And in with the new




29 Mar 2010, 1:39pm
Just going to update and decide what to aim for this week.
This is for my benefit really otherwise I wouldn't get anything done.

I've managed to find out some more weights and it looks promising, here they are;-

Body approx 50kg
Chassis 85kg
Rover V8 Engine 170kg max (inc ancilleries)
Gearbox approx 50kg
Diff and carrier 50kg
Suspension and hubs 104kg
approx 509 kg up to now (target weight 700 kg)

now what else is going to make it significantly heavier ?

This week I want to fit all the suspension and wheels so as the chassis can be moved around, I dont think I'll get all the bushes renewed but what isn't done by weekend will have to wait a week whilst I go away for Easter Holidays, think I deserve it:wink:
29 Mar 2010, 1:56pm
Fuel tank
Seating and Interior (Seats can be quite heavy)
The Driver! :)

The gooster came out at 891Kg - that's with a full tank of fuel.
29 Mar 2010, 5:56pm
:laugh: Must be a lardy boy there Jason, my cabrio was only 840kg
29 Mar 2010, 7:04pm
Driver = [B]85 kg[/B]:shocked:

Seats are small classic buckets from a Cobra and are pretty light, lets guess at 7kg each plus runners for drivers side so that's a guestimate for seats at 20 kg

Seats = [B]20kg[/B]

Fuel tank comes in at exactly 3 kg so add same again for straps and filler pipe and I guestimate 6 kg

Fuel tank = [B]6 kg[/B]

So add 111kg to previous total of 509 giving 620 kg on the road without fuel but still have to add radiator and sheet ally covering for tunnel etc so I should think 700 kg is achievable

29 Mar 2010, 10:02pm
Chris Cussen wrote:
:laugh: Must be a lardy boy there Jason, my cabrio was only 840kg


Nah - it was all the rubber crap they made me put on it. It's kilo's lighter now. Plus when they weighed it, it was the tester in there! ;)
2 Apr 2010, 9:03am
[QUOTE=spritely;18591]Couldn't get UNF locking nuts so decided to use large washers and tack weld them to mountings and tab them over when the old nuts are torqued up.[QUOTE=spritely;18591]


hmm... not sure what the IVA inspector will think of that? I guess it is permenant lock so should be OK just not sure?

By the way this looks like a really exciting creative build. I used to have a real Austin Healy sprite, so imagining a streched version with a V8 is mind blowing!

...peter
2 Apr 2010, 8:46pm
peterux wrote:

hmm... not sure what the IVA inspector will think of that? I guess it is permenant lock so should be OK just not sure?

By the way this looks like a really exciting creative build. I used to have a real Austin Healy sprite, so imagining a streched version with a V8 is mind blowing!

...peter


The tab washer idea is better than locking nuts, but I will still have the old locking nuts on so when painted it will look like a belt and braces situation. Some Cars ,like an Ariel Atom that my friend had, have locking nuts and are also drilled and wired.

I was thinking today about the width and if I should cut the chassis or widen the body as the TVR chassis is wider than the Sprite body.:shock: If the body was widened it would look like an Austin Healey 3000 from the back which is how most people will be looking at it:icon_smile: Any way, that's a while off yet so lets get on with it.

Today I slung a spare V8 over the chassis



Only to find that it dosen't fit



After removing the exhaust manifolds and snapping three of the sixteen retaining bolts off I found that the engine would just squeeze in between the chassis top rails, there being more room at the front than the back.
Problem is that the water pump pulley is in the way and it will not drop down low enough into the chassis at the front as there is a top cross member bracing the chassis where the top shock mounts are situated.
So I decided to remove the water pump and proceeded to snap three more bolts off. Not to worry, I'm not using this engine so not a problem for now.
Next the alternator came off and the wussey power steering pump, well at least it's getting lighter.:icon_smile:
Looks like I will have to move the cross member up the chassis a bit or maybe stick a bent tube in so as the crossmember fixing points are the same but giving a couple of inches more forward clearance.
Any way, that's it for a couple of weeks I'm afraid, We're off on holiday for a week and then her indoors wants the living room decorating and a radiator moving and new wood flooring etc etc,:bored:


9 Apr 2010, 9:26pm
Update..
Little or no progress untill I've addressed some problems. Managed to cut two crossmembers out of the chassis, one under the sump which will be relalced when the engine position is finalised and same with the top bracing cross member which braced the front shock mountings.
Good news is that my next door neighbour is a welder and he is going to fix the chassis up when we decide what to alter in order to get the V8 nice and snug in the engine bay.
The starter will have to be swapped as the solenoid is on the side and will foul one of the chassis uprights. I think I can get one with the solenoid on top.
The exhaust pipes are a problem but we can use tubular pipes and alter the top chassis rail if we need to (so the welder says with confidence).
Biggest problem and the one which will hold up everything else is the choice of gearbox. Without a gearbox the final engine position is not known so I need to be making a decision soon.
I've been told that Toyota Supra is a good choice but will I need an adapter plate and what will the cost be? Maybe I'll keep looking for a decent Rover SD1 box if I can get one cheap or a Ford type 9. Next week will be make your mind up time for the gearbox then we can get on with fitting it all in.

Wish me luck because this car will be a beast of a motor even if it dosen't scream round the track faster than every one else it will look and sound like a monster, especially if I can widen the body to compliment the extra 10inches in length.
Watch this space.....:icon_smile:
12 Apr 2010, 7:41pm
Quick update as I'm all excited:razz:
Dry fitted the fuel tank today and it fits like a glove, didn't do anything else as I'm sposed to be decorating and couldn't stay long at the garage.:icon_rolleyes:
The cause of my excitement is that I managed to locate a late SD1 Vittess gearbox and all the bits to make it fit.:nod: yes I got one so we're up and running as soon as the lounge is decorated....can't wait