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Carpet fitting

6 Feb 2008, 10:35pm
Any tips on fitting the carpets?

I have the Marlin supplied carpet and I'm wondering whether to fit a felt underlay first.
Something like this...
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1384-126-sound-deadening-felt.aspx

If I do, can I fix this stuff down with Aerosol Adhesive and then spray stick the carpet to the felt?
Will it be too floppy and saggy on the vertical tunnel sections?

Sticking the carpet directly to the floor and chassis seems to be the expected method but i'm concerned it will show the bumps where there are cables, screwed heads etc are and also be a bit 'hard' round the sharp square edges of the tunnel.

There is also this kind of stuff that looks very expensive...
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1619-129-foil-coated-acoustic-foam.aspx
Is it really worth the extra cost??

Also this kind of foam available which isn't quite so costly and I think would give a smarter appearance than the felt stuff.
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1617-129-acoustic-foam.aspx
It would be a nice flat surface for the carpet to stick to.


thanks for any help or suggestions,

Peter
7 Feb 2008, 12:17am
I covered the tunnel (near my feet), firewall and floor with a sound deadening material:



You can get this from [url]www.caraudiodirect.com[/url]. I had a bit of dynamat extreme left over from the last install I did so there a bit of that in there too.

Its stopped me from burning my feet on the tunnel. I noticed during test run that it got quite hot down there. Also is reduce vibrations by adding mass to the panels.

Carpet I applied directly to the metal using spray glue.

That saga is documented here: http://www.msportster.co.uk/detail.asp?cat=13&offset=96 it was a few nice warm days out the sun fitting those :) As you see the rear was a bit more difficult to do and I ended up using the door carpet to do that - there was not enough material to do a proper job in the template part that was in the kit (well not that I was able figure out anyway!).

After adding the sound deadening to the areas were it might get hot I didn't feel it was necessary to add anything else.
7 Feb 2008, 12:18am
Hi Peter,
If you use underfelt etc. and the car gets wet inside it will take forever to dry. I glued mine around the edges only so they can easily be removed for drying. Incidentally spray adhesive doesn't seem to last. Finally, I don't see the point of sound deadening on an open top car, especially if you have a loud exhaust!
7 Feb 2008, 12:27am
Wingco wrote:
Hi Peter,
If you use underfelt etc. and the car gets wet inside it will take forever to dry. I glued mine around the edges only so they can easily be removed for drying. Incidentally spray adhesive doesn't seem to last. Finally, I don't see the point of sound deadening on an open top car, especially if you have a loud exhaust!


IMO Reduces rattles and makes the car feel more solid - and as I said it also works as heat insulator. I've got an underfloor exhaust (and the only type or roasted nuts I like are chestnuts of cashew nuts :madgrin: :lol: ).

It can also help at SVA time as it reduces resonances which may add to the DB output of the exhaust.

(I can hear my exhaust very well despite the deadened floor :) )
7 Feb 2008, 8:44am
I think some sort of sound deadening material is a good idea particularly, as Patrick said, because it also helps to keep the heat out. But I think it would be a good idea to go for something that is non-absorbent particularly on the floors. Sooner or later you will get caught in a downpour and if you use something that absorbs water it will take forever and a day to dry out.

I would ask Woolies if any of them are non absorbent. The last choice in you post looks best to me particularly if it is closed cell (non-absorbent) foam. I have used stuff similar to the first choice in your post and it takes ages to dry out if it gets wet (and it smells...)

Personally I am going to try and avoid carpet and use thin marine plywood covered in vinyl in most places. Most the surfaces are flat so this shouldn't be too difficult. Probably rubber matting on the floor.

Robin
19 Apr 2008, 12:36pm
I've been fitting some of my carpets today. aaaaaaargh!:frusty: :mad2:

Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.

The centre tunnel piece is barely long enough and the side pieces are about 2-3" too short. I think they have been cut to patterns to suit the old short wheel base version. (I'll post some pictures later).
This on top of the handbrake gaiter that is too small and the propshaft flange that was too large, really makes you wonder about their quality control which spoils what is still one of the best cars on the market.

I know it's a kit car and you're expected to make a lot of things fit becuase of the individual nature of each chassis but some of these parts are clearly cut or made to the wrong size.

Right,now i've got that off my chest, i'll go and mumble to myself in the garage.

Tip1: if you have bought the Interior Trim set from Marlin, check the sizes of the side pieces well before the day you want to fit them.
Tip2: Fit the pedal rubbers before you fit the pedal box because fitting them in situ is a right pita (and back, elbows, etc)!
19 Apr 2008, 2:26pm
peterux wrote:

Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.


It's the laser they used to cut it. The heat has shrunk them! ;)
19 Apr 2008, 3:23pm


All I want is sharks with frikin' laser beams

:heh: :heh: :heh:
19 Apr 2008, 8:38pm
peterux wrote:
I've been fitting some of my carpets today. aaaaaaargh!:frusty: :mad2:

Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.

The centre tunnel piece is barely long enough and the side pieces are about 2-3" too short. I think they have been cut to patterns to suit the old short wheel base version. (I'll post some pictures later).



Ok here are some pictures............

Line up the side piece with the door pillar like this............

[IMG] http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2147/2425361907_21b1a7557c.jpg[/IMG]

and the back fits like this.............



Despite that I made some good progress today........






Just got to do it all over again on the passenger side :smile:

Peter
More pictures here...........
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-bmwmarlin/
19 Apr 2008, 8:44pm
Looks really good :thumb:
19 Apr 2008, 8:49pm
Patrick wrote:
Looks really good :thumb:


Thanks, it's taken about 3.5 full days and two cans of areosol adhesive so far!
23 Apr 2008, 9:51pm
Another full day last Sunday and another can of spray adhesive.....




and the boot area is nearly done........



about another half day to go and then refit my vinyl rear panels and i've done all the major jobs before SVA.

Still quite a long list (curently 29!) of little things to do before my test
23 Apr 2008, 10:11pm
Looks great :D Makes the car so much more complete when the interior is in :)