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Here is a short vid, forgive the sound quality the engine is so loud it is not until I back away from it a little that you can really hear it properly. Just click the image
Inspiring
I'm still a month or so off engine start I reckon, but pushing on!
Are Drivelink recommended for shafts then? I was just startingt to look for a supplier.
Richard
Inspiring
Are Drivelink recommended for shafts then? I was just startingt to look for a supplier.
Richard
I can't fault the quality of the items I bought from them, and people I know in the VW community who have used Drivelink have found the products good too.
The lengths I mentioned are what mine have been made to, and are definitely fine pottling around my driveway at 15mph. I haven't gone any faster, as it's a bit dodgy without seats (kept out of car to keep clean).
Cheers Guys! Looked at shafts today and think I may have a problem with the nearside one...think there is something missing looks like it may be an oil seal in the gearbox!
Rich I have been checking your web but no updates thought you had stopped building for a minute there will it be updated soon?
Heh. Yeah, no updates sorry. Problem is when I've got free time I'd always rather be working on the thing rather than writing about it I've been taking photos as I go along though; I'll try to make the effort to get some more written up! Progress has been steady - I'm hoping to be finished in June or thereabouts.
nice to see your making progress, just a simple question, how easy and what wiring is needed to install the k-Pro, im getting a bit more than a little annoyed with Marlin taking there time to start ours (so say due to not having an alarm box, no one told me I needed that). So im looking at other routes, due to the class we are entering we have to have a standard ecu, with standard Honda map on it, do you now this is possible and were did you get yours from.
Jon, k-pro when you get it back it just plugs in and your away but it is not standard??
There is no extra wiring needed as all the connectors on the ecu are the same!
As everyone on here knows my auto wiring skills are none existent and even I managed to get it started, after you have plugged in your ecu plugs you only need 3 wires to get it running......starter from ign......fuel pump wire and coils wire from pump relay
The map I have installed on mine is a tuned type r with v-tec at 5100 instead of 5800 but it does come with a standard map aswell as about 100 others
Craig
ps I sent my ecu to cpl racing they received wed I received back thurs or was it fri can't remember all in including postage about £735 quids
I'm going to give CPL Racing a call tomorrow as the K-pro looks the way to go, it would be good to lower the vtec a bit as well and have the rev limiter up to about 8500 but we are not ment to do that otherwise we will get moved up into class c, so doubt we will be doing that, cough,
I need to check witht the factory that it will be fairly easy to do as we have a totally different loom to road cars, all our switches are in the heater control, not too much of a problem but may be a prob so worth a check.
If you dont mind me asking you guess, what sort of price do these units retail at?
Jon, the ecu is your own cpl just put the hondata module inside and put a usb port on the outside so you can play with it and boy can you change things!!!!!! basically anything you can think of you can change
Ouch, not cheap but you can play with cam angles and things (id rather leave that to the experts but still), i think im going to chase Marlin and see whats happening and then once i now whats really going on ill give cpl a call and get the car back then start it myself.
The thing is though Jon, Marlins black box which does nowt apart from let you start the engine and you have just said you need the alarm box which I bet nobody has and black box costs about £400 plus from marlin so the differance is negligable epecially if you need to buy alarm box aswell.....
Yeh the hondata option is good if it can have a 'STANDARD' cough, map on it then that is fine. sounds stupid but we only want the standard map, for the moment so we are savein money really as when we tune the engine you k-pro can be tuned at the same time.
And of course in future when we decide to supercharge them then the K-Pro can do that too
I've been messing with my wiring diagrams no end - particularly for the O2 sensor (primary only - you don't need a secondary with Kpro) which is off the main loom not the engine loom? The wiring diagram for engine transplants on the hondata website isn't right as it's for the US wideband O2 sensor. Getting there now I think but not in a position to test just yet (engine not in...). I've done all my loom schematics including ecu on CAD and will willingly share them - but after I know it works! I don't want to fry anyone's ECU for them.
Did you use the honda loom for the O2 sensor etc craig?
Alarm box - what?! The the alarm doesn't connect to the ecu, it's the ignition barrel mounted immobiliser unit that connects to the ECU (by one wire!). The alarm box connects to the multiplexer, but there's no involvement with the ECU. I'm damn glad I didn't bother with the Marlin "box of tricks"!
Rich, I started putting my wiring diagram (made my own loom too) on CAD, but got cheesed off with the time it takes, so sacked it off. However it's so simple, I can't see it ever being a problem.
My ECU loom works perfectly, lambda sensors (! yes I put a second in as I thought I might be able to avoid the hondata mod by using everything from the donor...immobiliser unit didn't want to play ball though) do everything they should (I've logged the dithering), and the fan output is triggering a relay. I was pretty cautious about connecting my ecu at first, as I've extended the loom by a good 3m, and was worried I'd slipped up somewhere.
If you want to cross check connection before putting power to the ecu, just drop me a PM.
As an aside, did you get the instrument panel with your ECU? The multiplex signal from the ECU can be connected straight to the dash, and everything needed on the type-r dash can be made to work. I'm now going to modify the Marlin dash to suit the Type-R instrument panel.
Hopefully I'll nab my friend's car trailer soonish, and then I'll take the car for a proper drive to check the shafts are okay.
Rich, as a final question, how are you going to mount your engine?
Rich, I used the us wiring as only the start relay and 02 sensors are different and it works fine, I have not wired in the 02 sensor yet as still unsure of how this is wired to the engine harness plug!
But now that I have finally received the female part of the plug (received the male first time)
I hope to get this wired soon.
Even with my limited knowledge of auto electrics I know that if you follow the us wiring that the ecu can't be fried as It is not receiving direct power its through relays.
The only honda wiring I have used is the engine harness loom!
Craig
ps Rich not sure if I pm'ed you but that guy can't supply or at least that is what he told me
As an aside, did you get the instrument panel with your ECU? The multiplex signal from the ECU can be connected straight to the dash, and everything needed on the type-r dash can be made to work. I'm now going to modify the Marlin dash to suit the Type-R instrument panel.
Thanks for the info. No - I didn't get the instruments so I'm using the Rover panel. I think I've sussed out how to connect everything except maybe the alternator charge warning light which doesn't seem to appear on the same pin as per hondata's wiring diagram. I think I can connect straight to the alternator though. How are you getting your speedo to read correctly, or are you using type-r size wheels? I picked up a couple of these Jaycar Speedo Corrector
- one for speedo one for tacho. I guess inserting it in the line from the VSS to the ECU would make sure the multiplexed signal was correct.
alackofspeed wrote:
Rich, as a final question, how are you going to mount your engine?
A bit controversially (it seems from previous posts I've seen) I was going to use Marlin's method. I don't have any major concerns with it; my chassis already included a beefy front lower mount bracketed off the transmission to stop engine twist. My only issue might be that the mounting is pretty rigid which may make for high vibration. I'm going to stick with it and see how it rides I think. If it need rework afterward then I'll have to get hold of a welding set and revive my lost welding skills! I have all the original honda mounts that I could use if needed.
I have not wired in the 02 sensor yet as still unsure of how this is wired to the engine harness plug!
I found this article on hondata's site that handily shows the wiring of narrow-band O2 sensors to PRA ecus. It shows the pinouts for the loom plug and E plug too (though the pin numbers are reversed from the tiny numbers stamped on my connectors) http://www.hondata.com/techk20-ctr-o2wiring.html
Unfortunately it seems the UK wiring doesn't even need a relay for the O2 heater? I've already built one into my loom for it . I might re-use it for an immobiliser or something.
I decided to save on the loom plug and am going to just chop it off and re-wire to a standard multipin connector. I think you only need about 11 ways because some of the loom connections need to loop back onto the engine for the 02 sensors.
Rich,Cheers I had looked at that diagram a couple of weeks ago but it's for both sensors and I am only using the primary so not too sure.
Your gearbox mount is the same as the elises with honda engines and yes there is a load of vibration, I take it that it is a completely rigid mount to replace the dog bone mount? Am sure I have seen a pic of the new marlin mount somewhere
They are on the elises cause they originally suffered from driveshaft problems with engine movement. I had the pleasure of a long outing in a honda elise some time back now and they are supidly fast and as our cars will be lighter.......... but the one thing that I could not help but notice was the vibration through the chassis and the subsequent noise even at low speeds
However it's so simple, I can't see it ever being a problem.
or at least that is what he told me 
. I might re-use it for an immobiliser or something.