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Hi All,
What i thought was going to be a straight forward job has again thrown up a problem. Fitted the engine today (1600 K), the two upper engine mounts fitted ok but the bottom stabalizer bracket which bolts to the chassis is missing the bracket on the engine by about 30mm what's the answer? not more washers surely!!. The other observation is that the even with the bottom stabalizer fitted will that be enough to stop the engine wobbling all over the place?
hi, im building one with the 1.8k engine and i had a similar problem. I ended up geting some steel strip - and the welder out to make a new one. I also reinforced the top right mount. When all the mounts are done up the engine is very secure. if you cant weld, i would say 30mm gap is too large to use washers as spacers - use a small piece of steel tube cut to the right length instead.
This is the The series and this stabiliser was not good enough. Needed another stabiliser at the rear of the engine. But the t series is a lot heavier engine.
Mine is a 1600K so installation should be the same.
Gearbox mount is simple. As is the cam belt end top mount.
Bottom mount is simple stabiliser bar (adjustable for length) with a couple of ball joints on each end. One ball joint goes to the chassis, the other goes to a steel bar that you bolt to the sump.
if you check out my build pics on the gallery it gives you some idea how mine is.
Pics are:- Rear hub assy - shows the bottom bar (just). Engine Bay 1.6K & FInished pic #3.
Hope these are enough. If not PM me and I'll mail you some specific shots.
Hi BigRich,
Yor setup sounds completely different to mine. My lower assemblt consists of a simple bracket welded to the chassis and a solid angled bar which bolts at one end to the chassis bracket and the other end should bolt to the Rover lower mount which is already on the engine sump. Looks as if Marlin have altered their minds again - I think a call to the factory is needed!!
I assume it's the bottom rear stabiliser you're talking about. Attached is a photo of the old way Marlin had it (on the K-series demonstrator), so I can see why they might want to change it. And yes it is just a threaded stud with a 15 degree or so bend in it. It feels firm if you try to rock it by hand, but hit a bump as you accelerate and you can hear & feel the engine slopping around. It's on my list of things that need fettling.
Having sampled some of Marlin's mounting efforts with my Honda build, I'm inclined to suggest having looked at the pictures of these solid bars, that the aprroach adopted is a "cost effective" method of limiting the engine's motion, that involved little thought.
Surely the best way to mount the engine is in a method similar to the original installation, which presumably uses a tie-bar or similar, with some give in it to isolate the chassis from the engine vibration / stress.
It also seems the location of the solid tie rod is a bit suspect - surely the bar should be roughly in the middle of the engine / 'box?
I'm not wanting to play devil's advocate, I just know that had I used the mounts my type-r build came with, I would be having a lot of problems right now.
This is the The series and this stabiliser was not good enough. Needed another stabiliser at the rear of the engine. But the t series is a lot heavier engine.
mmmmm, will be looking at mine tonight, don't think I have the bracket . . .
If anyone has a pic for the K series could you please post or email me - ex-biker(at)tiscali(dot)co(dot)uk
Im not too sure how the engine's are mounted in the road cars, but our car has solid mounts all the way around it. Its not great as you can feal the engine ticking over, but it does mean that the enigne/box doesn't move.
I had the body fitted by marlin and durng that they looked over the car, one of the things they corrected was the engine mouting, I had the same issue as you. Hopefully these pictures will help as to the acton they took.
I had the body fitted by marlin and durng that they looked over the car, one of the things they corrected was the engine mouting, I had the same issue as you. Hopefully these pictures will help as to the acton they took.
Jeez guys, there really must be a more robust solution to your problems - baldy bonces "mount" looks to have bent!
A small gauge length of stud, trying to resist the torque of the engine and box, with all the effort so far off the centre of mass, is surely just asking for problems?
