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Reminds me of why David Beckham doesn't use taxi's. Every time he tried to gets a taxi home it just drops him at the train station. All he says it "Take me to Victoria"
My suggestion is that Scottie completes his, drives it round to Hoffmans, parks up next to the black one and asks them to make him an offer. Then ask them why the figure does not approach £275k...
Its a really nice car, and of course I am slightly biased, but side by side there would not be an awful lot of difference in looks,
at least not £270 grands worth of difference!
Joking aside, I need some urgent help.
I have made all the dash connections including the choke cable, but have one connection still to do.
Yes one, the problem is I cannot find the light green wire I need in my loom, and the Haynes wiring diagram, does not even show a speedo, never mind any connections.
I took a picture before strip-down to try to avoid this very situation, but with all the burn-outs under the dash and the extensive re-wire, this missing wire is proving hard to resolve.
I am loath to go ahead and put the dash in place without said wire for obvious reasons.
So one wire is holding the build up right now.
It would be nice to know what the small box is and what its funcion is,
but all I really want to know is what does that one terminal need to be connected to????
I have exhausted the internet and gone round in circles.
There must be at least one expert on this forum that can help me?
Hi Scottie
I've no experience with Triumphs apart from a TR2 engine in my first TVR.
However- it looks a lot like the voltage regulator in the back of a Ford (Escort era) speedo.
So- on a Ford...
It feeds a constant voltage to the fuel and temperature gauges so that their readings don't vary with engine speed.
Notably inefficient and unreliable especially as the measly screw holding them on and providing the earth connection works loose and you lose the readings completely.
I don't know what's inside or exactly how they work but there are solid state replacements on the market.
I had the Same Regulator in my Mini MK2 Cockpit, and when I installed my external Smith temp and fuel gauges I did Not use it and both worked without...
Thanks for the input fellahs, I think you are all correct, as I have just spoken to Mick O'Malley on the phone, and he says it is the voltage stabilizer.
The input is 12v and output 10v according to him.
I have just tested it and although the box has continuity, with it connected, I don't seem to be able to get an output voltage.
However, I re-wired my water and fuel gauges without it as I didn't know what it was at that stage, and they both seemed to work okay, (like Axel says) so I'll probably just leave it.
Thanks for the input fellahs, I think you are all correct, as I have just spoken to Mick O'Malley on the phone, and he says it is the voltage stabilizer.
The input is 12v and output 10v according to him.
I have just tested it and although the box has continuity, with it connected, I don't seem to be able to get an output voltage.
However, I re-wired my water and fuel gauges without it as I didn't know what it was at that stage, and they both seemed to work okay, (like Axel says) so I'll probably just leave it.
Scottie you may find the fuel and water temp gauge will have a flickering needle without a voltage stabilizer fitted due to high and low voltage feeds, both these gauges require a steady 10v.
There are guys who make a solid state modern equivalent housed in the original box like the one you have on the speedo or if you feel like it you can buy the bits for a couple of quid and make your own, you can also still buy an original mechanical type from all the usual suppliers.
One more thing you can run up to three gauges from one stabilizer unit.
That documentary was good, Scottie. I saw a women put he dashboard in the lightweight... So, I think you dragged it out a bit. I wonder if you could race your car at goodwood? It's not a replica...