MadaboutKitcars

What exactly are the moulded stick-on seals Degsy?

Scottie if you mean the light pods? they will be glassed into place after the lips have been trimmed off.

Earlier, you said you would give rain channels a miss, and use "the stick on seals instead"

Perhaps I'm missing something? I was thinking "did I waste days and days making rain channels?" When I could have used stick on seals!!!

Hoo pre moulded rubber seals they come in all shapes and sizes 'D' section 'L' section and so on they are available on line and at most of the car shows Woollies Europa etc. It may take a few tries but should negate the need for rain channels around the doors.

Mmmmm! Wish I'd thought of that!

Sorry Scottie didn't mean to upset you

I have trimmed the indicator pods and drilled them out.
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I then positioned them and taped them in place with masking tape and used glass fibre past to fix them in place sorry about the rubbish photos
and they now look like this.
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I have also started on the fuel tank cover this was the rear cockpit panel but as I used alloy for that I hade to find a use for it or that's my excuse (on alloy left)
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switch and wiring in progress, that's all for now folks more updates soon I hope?

I started on the head fairings (ump's) today the drivers side should not be too difficult I have used small amounts of glass fibre paste to fix it too the body in the three places where it actually troche's the plan is then to fill it from the outside then glass fibre tape the inside, I didn't want the glass fibre pushing to the outside too difficult to sand too shape the ump's will also be used as storage space so I'll need a good finish on the inside.
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the passenger side one is actually a drivers side one modified to fit ish and as you can see from the photos doesn't sit properly and slopes to the wrong side and will need major surgery (watch this space)

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the bolts inside the ump's are for thee point harnesses and are in the right place believe it or not!

I also had to modify a driver's side hump for the passenger side on my build and that was a pain.



So good luck with getting the passenger hump to fit.

Take care, Paul.

Thanks Paul you are right it looks as if I will have similar problems.

I taped over the join on the outside then filled from the inside this leaves a nice clean join with just a mall amount of filling and sanding
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then I will sand the inside reinforce with woven glass fibre tape which it just so happens I have run out of so I sent for some today.
As Paul says the passenger side will be a little more difficult

I have used woven glass fibre tape to reinforce the inside vaer messy as I couldn't see what I was doing doh!
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The n/s hump needs a lot more work 1/2 chopped of this corner

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and this one extended by about 3/4 and filled and shaped.
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I also had too cut off about 1/2" off one side but not looking too bad now

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Great work so far

Nooooo I decided to turn the car around yesterday to get better access to the rear end she spluttered into life then I pressed the brake pedal STRAIGHT TO THE FLOOR nothing? The braking system is a brand new dual circuit affair, The first section of the master cylinder was empty which meant the fault is in the rear section of the system. Wheels off stripped an inspected and found a union joint was not fully tightened up doh!
Decided I had better check the rest of the system and found on the front 3 way union that some idiot (ME) had fitted 2 metric male connector too the imperial union ruined new imperial union and connectors had to be fitted very fiddly flaring the brake pipe in situ now I've got to find someone to help with bleeding it again.
Sorry no photos I am too busy hitting my head against a brick wall (trying to knock some sense into it) the next update will likely be from A&E

Look on the bright side, at least the brakes didn't fail when you were on the road.

I remember Mister Towed having a major brake failure on his driveway (again a better place than on the road).

Good luck, Paul.

Very true I love it really. Now where did I put those bandages?

Book a consultation with WCA whilst you are there.

I'll join the queue.

Whist the rear of the car is up on jacks (waiting for the brakes to be bled) I decided to start the mock up on the boot supports,
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I noticed that the join line in the boot looked a little thin {probably just me )
so I decided too reinforce it with some glass tape.
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looks a bit stronger now I'll carry on with the boot supports ASAp

Book a consultation with WCA whilst you are there.


Oi! I checked the photos and the last time I was in A&E was when I got rushed to resuss and that was way back in July
20160717_163339 by WCA!, on Flickr

Later down graded to Majors
20160717_172512 by WCA!, on Flickr

we have long queue's in wales

well I finally managed to get the missus to help me bleed the brakes ant they seem ok now. but my twin SU's still run quite rough.
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I'm rubbish at setting these things up properly so I have decided to go for a single HS4 setup during the build just too make my life easer

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I spent a few hours polishing it up this manifold will also take the HS6 carb with a bit of porting. but that's not the plan, I acquired this little gem off a friend this weekend and is jetted for a 1500 so once I have saved up enough pennies for a manifold and linkage she'll be running on a single weber 40

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I took my seven out for a ride this morning the first chance I've had all summer and as usual found a few jobs need sorting there is a clicking noise coming from the front n/s when braking and she's running to rich so the tribute build will have to go on the back burner for a few days until I gat a chance to sort out the seven ho joy!
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Easy when you know how.

Check that the needles have the same markings and aren't bent and that the dashpots have fresh oil.

Remove the two pipes leading to the rocker box and point them into a handy container. Connect the two carb outlets with clear plastic tubing. Loosen the carb linkage so that the throttles can be moved independently. With the engine running, if they are out of balance you will be able to see fuel running from one carb to the other. Adjust the throttles until that doesn't happen. Tighten the linkage between. Replace the two black pipes.

For mixture, equalise the jet settings- ie same number of turns down from maximum weakness (1.5 from memory).

Then, I've always done this whilst driving, with the revs at 2000-ish, floor the pedal. The speed should pick up smoothly. If it bogs down, mixture is too rich so tighten jets ie move them up half a turn. If it coughs, mixture is too weak so loosen jets ie move them down half a turn.

That last bit probably won't work unless the engine is under load so you couldn't just set the idle speed in the garage whilst stationary and try it.

Hope this helps !!!

I've only ever tuned Webers with a Colourtune.

Thanks Ian I'm sure I'll sort them both soon???