MadaboutKitcars

Probably not but I will probably go and correct it as it is beginning to niggle.

anymore pics, its a bit quiet today.

I will pop down now and take some. Partly to please you and partly to try and work out what to do next. I am waiting on some angle steel to fit to the sills where I 'over optimised' the cut point.

This means I can't fit the body properly.
This means I can't fit the interior wood work.
I also just remembered I was meant to call Gary as he offered to post me some door slam plates if I couldn't get down to collect them. Need them before I go to Cornwall of Saturday.
This means I can't fit the doors.
Awaiting the sizes of the Land Rover seats - this means I can try them in different positions to finalise the cabin design.

Basically lots of excuses why I am not making much progress. Anyway, off to take photos while there is still some light.

Wheel nicely centred witht he shell tacked in place


The old wheel arches fit nicely against the new ones, Even better fit when persuaded into position


Wiring tidied a bit ready for hiding behind the trim. Gear stick and handbrake likewise. Seat is probably not going to make it into production.


Well, some of the wiring has been tidied. Dashboard also unlikely to make production.


More tidied wire and the main earth and live points on the loom.


Re-sited header tank with flexi connectors. It is still technically above the radiator.


Re-sited brake servo. Shelf will be bonded to the wood bulkhead when I fit that for further re-enforcement although it seem remarkably solid as it is.


The front loom might need a bit more work but that is a working headlight, side light with main beam, two indicators and a horn!


The narrow boot opening means I will be lining it with 4mm ply. The cardboard is a temporary template to be refined when I get my delayed metal sills.


This will be the front boot area and be behind a hinged wooded bulk head (I think) or possibly the seat backs


This is the view that will be blocked by a second bulk head fitted to connect the (cardboard) boot floor to the top of the shell where there is a bit of wood already bonded into place


This, sort of, shows the gap between the inside shell of the Scimitar (green) and the new outer shell of the G46. I need to think about how I bond the two together so I don't allow muck from the outside to get flicked in between the inner and outer shell.


A view under the bonnet to show that the water bottle no longer hits the bonnet


The alternator is also okay


and the brake servo is fine and dandy


View from the back


Pondering seat heights. Does this look too high or is it okay?






Those photos were with me sat on a kids booster seat that sat mostly in the dip of the rear foot well. I reckon I could probably mount the Land Rover seats about the same height. If I need to be lower I could cut away the raised area that used to be under the front seats.


Views about the seating height welcome. Comments about how handsome I look welcome. Piss takes and other comments are tolerated. ;-)

Driving position looks to be just right. I like your seat, is it a Maclaren?

i came back from holiday today to find a pair of Land Rover seats sat outside my garage. A gift from a friend.

I placed them in the G46 and noticed a possible issue, the width.


and possible the height of the backs


I have been trying to read the threads on my phone while on holiday but it is challenging to see any detail in the photos. I thought I had seen a lowered floor pan that ran from the depth of the rear foot well forward and thought this would help but when I checked the car there was a great lump of chassis in the way.

From above you can see the lowered foot well and also not the two bolt holes just in front.



From below you can see the black shiney underneath of the foot wells and the big silver lump of chassis that those two bolts went into.



This is as low as the seats are going to get



With a bit of careful bolt extraction the seat backs can be reclided


This allows a better fit height wise but it still looks like I will need different seats though

Sear wells

[IMG]http://image 237[/IMG]

Don't know if the attachment is working until I post this reply, hopefully the attachment is a scale drawing and section I did this afternoon to show the dimensions of the G46 rear footwell.

Andy kindly sent dimensions of his ally bucket seats but they are to big and ffar to costly to cut about to make them fit.

Mr Towed buckets seats look as if they would work even if they had to be modified.

did not work, shame its a good sketch, I can email it but can't seemed to add it to this thread

I picked up a pair of Scimitar rear seats (following a tip on another thread) and the first fitting looks good. Just placed there for the photo because of the rain (hence poor picture quality). The seat squab will sit lower,at the moment the red marker pen is holding it in place.



The curve of the seat back fits nicely with the shape of the cockpit.



Even the colour isn't too bad, a tan vinyl, as I was thinking of a tan leather and wood interior anyway although it is a bit more Des O'Connor orange than I really wanted.

I have had some fun recently playing with gravity which has delayed any progress for a while. I have however managed to fit the metal door plates that Gary provided and test fitted the hinges. I now need to think how to get the hinges to be in the right position. Anyway, some photos and comments about them.

First, the cause of the delays


The door plate. This is for the front of the door so has a hole for the hinge. The rear plate was similar but without the hole.


Trial fit the hinge before fitting the plate



These simply bolt into place with a couple of penny washers to protect the bodywork



All looks very neat in the car


Until viewed from above when I realised the hinge actually stuck out of the body due to the angle of the door shuts. In the Scimi they were at 90 degrees to the car, in the G46 they are not.


This shows the hinges from inside the front wing positioned so that the bit of the hinge the door is fixed to is parallel with the side of the body (ie in the correct position) and you can see quite a gap between the hinge and the metal plate. I wonder if I could get some kind of wedge for that?


Anyway, took them all out and slapped some undercoat on them while I think about it.

Any suggestions of the door hinge angle are welcome. I was wondering about trying to bend the hinge a bit but it is 7mm steel and I don't want to unbend the existing bends or destroy the hinge pin which seems good at the moment.

Could you use a hot air gun?

How about welding/bolting the plate onto the existing frame at a 90 degree angle just behind where you have it now?

I was thinking of trying to use a blow torch to help 'encourage it to bend but I am struggling to work out where to hold it when I hit it. I don't want to change the bend that is already there or break the hinge pin (both with red arrows pointing at them) although the hinge needs about and extra 30 degrees of bend.



That is why I was wondering about a wedge behind it when mounted to reduce the affect and then perhaps mounting another wedge inside the door where the hinge fits.

GazDavies - Do you mean weld a new bracket onto the black frsme and then fix the door hinge to that? I think that might work!

That sounds like a job for Mr. M...

Yes, that or your original idea, weld a wedge onto it so that the hinge is at 90 degrees. Its got to be easier than trying to bend the hinges to the correct postion.

Mucking about with my scimitar hinges today. One pin was stuck in the hinge arm and rotating in the bracket rather than the other way around. When I eventually got it apart a solution to WCA's dilemma above revealed itself. If you redrill the bracket where the white tippex dot is on the photos below the bracket can lie on the 45 degree angled panel with the arm pointing straight back. As long as the hinge pin is well forward of the shutline and is as close as possible to the inside face of the bodyshell, all parts of the door (especially the most forward edge) will open outward before swinging forwards so preventing it catching on the front wing.


Standard hinge


Redrill hole at the white dot


view from side


view from rear

I was going to make my support frame for the hinge brackets lie at right angles to the car centreline (as in the scimitar) but I might be changing to this idea

Not quite right. A good method is to run a small bore tube from the highest point where any trapped air might collect to the bottom of an expansion tank which is half full of coolant. When expansion of the air (and of the coolant, especially when the engine is switched off after a hot run) the air will be forced down the tube and bubble up through the coolant in the expansion tank and out through the pressure cap. When it all cools down, coolant, not air is sucked back into the system. I had this system on my spartan years ago with the tank down beside the engine mount and you could see the bubbles on the move for the first few times after changing the coolant until all of the air was expelled.

Food for thought re door position / hinges and coolant header tank...

Cannot of course give any indication of how I intend to progress as G46 still under 'starters orders' at Poole.

With the pressure cap on the expansion tank means that on contraction of the coolant within the engine only coolant can be drawn back into the engine. Air enters at the pressure cap into the space above the coolant in the expansion tank. With the arrangement you suggest with the pressure cap at the highest point and a non pressurised tube leading to the expansion tank, air gets drawn in there rather than coolant being drawn back from the expansion tank.

Hi Micha,

I was just about to reply for the benefit of anyone else following this discussion when I looked again at your post and saw the last photo with the extra seal in it. Most standard caps look like the next photos and wont seal the shiny disc to the filler neck.



It took me a while many years ago to work out where the air was getting in until I found this little valve.



My first car (triumph herald) had exactly the arrangement you have pictured above with a plastic bottle tied to the front of the radiator but never worked properly. One of those double seal caps would have corrected it if I had realised where the air was getting in. Who supplies these?

Andrew

Just found them!

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/koyo_cap.htm

I'd check the size of that before ordering one - modern Japanese cars use a smaller cap than old British ones.

It was the crunch day meeting with the consultant.

Has the ankle shown enough sign of recovery?

Will it survive!

Amputate or Fuse?

Woot!

Woot!

Woot!

It is Fuse.

I am being referred to an ankle specialist consultant (well, two actually) to get their views on exactly what the best option is. Possibly a nail up through the heel, talus and into the leg. Possibly a Pan-talur fusion. just got to wait for the next appointments some time in January.

What ever, I will still be able to count past 15 which is the result I wanted.

That's a good Christmas present. I'm really pleased for you. Fingers and (ten) toes crossed that it all goes to plan.