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In answer to your question yesterday, I was busy painting and got to the point when I would have to go out and buy etch primer at about four times the cost that I get it online, when the courier arrived with the stuff I'd ordered! And that was how I was able to do so much.
Seeing as the paint created so much interest, I have been doing a bit of digging, and it seems that the company that makes the paint, created it especially for people like us that prefer cellulose.
This is a modern equivalent, and they sure have hit the button there, I would never go back to celly now.
Can you post up some pictures of your spraying equipment and set up please. That is not too shoddy and I am getting more tempted to get mine resprayed.
In answer to your question yesterday, I was busy painting and got to the point when I would have to go out and buy etch primer at about four times the cost that I get it online, when the courier arrived with the stuff I'd ordered! And that was how I was able to do so much.
Seeing as the paint created so much interest, I have been doing a bit of digging, and it seems that the company that makes the paint, created it especially for people like us that prefer cellulose.
This is a modern equivalent, and they sure have hit the button there, I would never go back to celly now.
I struggled a bit with their website Scottie, do they have a colour availability chart? It seemed to me that you had to know what the colour you wanted was called before you could enquire if they have it. Or it could just be me being a tech duffer. Well, my daily driver is insured with SAGA...
Oh, and on that subject for those of us who might not quite be over the hill but could certainly see the brow if only we could remember to put our reading glasses on, I got a quote for a 2.8 Z3 from said SAGA, 6,000 miles per year, comprehensive with a £200 excess for...
£113! That's only £20 more than my Micra.
BTW Paul, I loved the small/far Father Ted reference, it made me chuckle.
WCA, I have posted a couple of pics of my compressor and spray gun for you to see.
I have worked a bit on my headlight bowls, but don't really think the extra work is justified. How come your bowls upset you so much?
Mr Towed, that website is not my local supplier, it was just one that I found that sold the paint online.
Yes I think you do need to know what colour you want, I went to this local chap and looked at colour swatches, chose Connaught green, and he mixed it up for me in that acrylic stuff. As far as I know they can do any colour.
The name of my supplier is Border Automotive, and they are on 01432 265305. The guy's name is Phil, and he is very helpful, give him a call.
Today I rubbed down the one run I had on the bonnet, and also some more bonnet patches, but mainly I worked on the back half of the car.
I rubbed it down with G3, then T cut, as there were a few slight orange peely bits. It now does not have that "just painted" look, and almost looks like it could be the original 1950's paint. I have not polished it yet, that will come later.
The back half of the car is now finished, it is not perfect and there are a few small marks, and insect imprints etc. But you'd have to look hard to see them, and I can live with that. The overall impression is okay.
So I put all the lights and bumpers back on, and was pleased with the result.
The main difference between my car's rear and a real one, is around three million quid...........
I expect the thread will continue Ed, I've got to make a roof yet and all sorts of little tweaks and mods still to do.
I've only been here for 18 months, it'll go on a bit longer I'm sure!
I have been transfixed by this build for months and your determination has been an inspiration for me to get on with my Looooooong lasting project! Can't wait to see it at stoneleigh!
That does look very special Scottie. I've had my doubts occasionally as to whether you'd ever finish or run out of enthusiasm and abandon the project, but you've really pulled the rabbit out of the hat now.
Keep up the good work on the bits 'n' bobs you've got to finish, but get it down the MOT station asap and start enjoying the spring weather.
Today was another prep day, working on the front half of the car which was not up to standard. It is now, and its painted, so are the doors and bonnet with yet another coat.
It could not have been a fluke the first time round, as its come out even better this time, it must be the paint!
I will always use this stuff for everything in the future.
One thing I have learnt over the last few days, is that it is fairly straight forward and simple to spray paint, but incredibly difficult to get a smooth even surface on a panel to receive that paint.
...One thing I have learnt over the last few days, is that it is fairly straight forward and simple to spray paint, but incredibly difficult to get a smooth even surface on a panel to receive that paint...
It certainly looks like you have created a smooth surface.
So I will try hard to follow your lead when I finally get to that stage.
This might sound like a daft question, but have you "just" got the panels smooth, or have you also "straightened" out the panels too?
As I think I may end up a smooth, but undulating, surface in some areas.
Paul, you can tell by looking at the reflections. To me the reflections of the surroundings and particularly the houses and the back end with the luggage rack of Scotties car are clean and straight. If the surface was undulating the reflections would show up as wobbly lines, they don't. I will be interested to see the paint in 6 months time, once it has cured completely and shrunk to its final film thickness. It MAY lose a little of it's initial natural gloss then. According to the blurb from the manufacturers it should respond well to polishing...
My worry with GRP is shrinkage, I think that is responsible for a lot of the uneven surfaces which often show up on some kit car bodies. To that end a slow build such as yours allows time for the body to stabilise and do all the shrinking it is going to. Some of the panels I have seen are variable in thickness to say the least. This is one of the reasons I have chosen to replace GRP with aluminium apart from weight is to get away from the issues surrounding GRP, they are over 30 years old and have had a rough time. That said my aluminium panels aren't perfect by any means but they are what I have made them, I will have to do some skim filling if a want a decent paint finish.
One good test of the surface apart from running you hand over it with outstretched fingers, is to use a steel rule or similar, (not clear plastic) with the light behind the rule, bend the rule as edgeways as possible to the panel curve and see how much light can be seen between the body and the rule. You should get a good idea of the shape that way. For more extreme curves you need to find something flexible and springy instead of a rule. The flatter panels are more of a concern because they provide the tell tale reflections.
I think Scotties car is a credit to him, I am hugely impressed with the quality of the bodywork quite apart from the rest of the detail items which are also stunning. It's such a shame the lump from the Mk. 2 couldn't have found it's way under the bonnet but I completely understand why. Better to do what you can, rather than attempt the impossible.
Paul, in answer to your question about the panels:
I did not have to actually cut any panels for serious mods like you did, apart from chopping out the offside head light mounting and re-doing it at the right angle, and of course, I re-designed the boot to my liking.
The rear end of the car was fairly good, a couple of flash lines each side which were an absolute bitch to get rid of, each time I had "finished" it and put a guide coat on, I realised they were still there, I lost count of how many times that happened.
As for the front, that was not so easy, there were lots of "bubbles" that needed grinding out and filling, there were two flash lines on the sides and one across the rear of the front by the windscreen, which was as troublesome as the rear to get rid of.
The drivers "wing" is at least and inch wider than the near side one, but It is not noticeable, without a measuring tape, so I just left it.
There were lots of bumps and hollows, which were sanded down or filled in.
I am happy with how it is now, but really, it is not perfect, but good enough to live with the imperfections, as they are not noticeable or obvious.
Ed, yes It is a shame about the Jaguar engine not being suitable for my car, as I happen to have a 4.2 E Type triple carb engine totally re-built with 6 new pistons etc. etc!
Unfortunately, such an engine and gearbox, weighs in at just over 600 lbs or around 280 kilos.
280 kilos will be roughly half the weight of my finished car I would guess!
So as you say, it really is not feasable, although I believe some americans do put huge engines in their Spitfires.
I wouldn't get too hung up on the quality of the paint finish you get when you spray a classic replica, just do the best job you can and it'll be fine.
My Spyder was the first car I'd ever even thought about spraying and I did what I'd describe as a half decent job. I figured I'd redo it over its first winter and pay someone to do it professionally if I still wasn't happy.
About two weeks after I sprayed it I took it to its first classic car show, parked it amongst the Mercs, Cobras and Healeys and loitered nearby to eavesdrop on what people thought of it.
I was pleasantly surprised when it drew quite a crowd, and utterly gobsmacked when two quite well to do gentlemen got into a heated discussion as to my car's originality.
They weren't arguing over whether it was real or a kit car, but whether it had ever been restored. One of them eventually convinced the other that it was an unrestored original by pointing to my paint job and saying 'look at the paint, you can't fake patina like that, it's been on there for at least sixty years'. Actually it was still a bit wet...
Mr Towed, I bet their words were music to your ears!
What exactly did you do to get the "patina" they noticed?
Did you mop it by machine, or do it by hand, and what grades of cutting paste did you use?
As I said before about painting, its not so much the paint finish. but what is underneath the paint that counts.
After three days of hardening, there are some places on my cars front end that have sunk a little and under critical light, (strip lighting) some of the patch edges are visible.
From 5 feet away its not noticeable, but up close it looks a mess to me.
I know why it has happened too, due to my bloody impatience to get the car to Stoneleigh, I have not allowed the primer over the repaired areas to dry properly, and the top coat has reacted to the uncured primer edges.
So I will have to do it again. The rear end of the car has no such problems, and the front must be the same I'm afraid, so with a heavy heart, its back to the wet and dry yet again...........
This, I suppose is the difference between a professional and me!
I will get it right though, otherwise it will never leave my driveway :-)
At least you know the panels are right Scottie, another blow over won't do any harm. We used to just keep piling the coats on with cellulose, then cut it back to a perfect finish, well almost!!! <vbg>
Patience is a virtue, especially when painting cars...
