MadaboutKitcars

Ok, it's saved and back in the garage!

If possible Peter i could do with the use of your former. I have been looking to tidy up the interior of my sportster.

OK, form an orderly queue!

I hope to be at Stoneliegh, but I could flat pack it and post it, if anyone needs it more urgently.

No rush for me. I wont be at Stoneleigh but im willing to pay postage on it and then forward it on to the next user.

Stuart

Hi Stuart

I can collect from Stoneleigh. Shall I have them first and then forward them on to you?

Cheers

Robin

That would be great if you could Robin. PM me for address details

Stuart

Hi Peter

I've just had the same experience on my Cabrio with threaded holes full of weld and powder coat...

Can I take you up on your offer and borrow your tap? (I've sent you a pm).

Thanks

Simon

Hi Simon,

yes, no problem, i'll pop it in the post,

Peter

Not much to show for the last couple of weeks work, but progress is being made. I've spent many hours cutting and glueing bits of rubber and plastic U channel on all manner of sharp edges. All the bumpers, bonnet edges and wings are now covered. Not very photogenic but essential for the SVA.

I've also had to change my HT leads as the previous set were not marked. Another SVA small print requirement.

I've started fitting out the interior. After hours of trying to make the Marlin supplied leathercloth handbrake gaiter fit, I came to the obvious conclusion it really is too small. I threw across the garage and ordered some nice real leather ones off eBay.







Also, spent a few hours gluing in some carpet underlay. A very messy job!


Some more pictures here........

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-bmwmarlin/

Peter

Gaiter looks great, I found the same thing and ebayed a nice one, same with the handbrake!

Looking good you're slowly getting through all the little things

Correction



On further reading of the SVA manual, I have to correct my statement above.
The "Obligatory" refectors DO have to be 'e' marked. (It is "Optional" refectors that don't need to be marked, so i was reading the wrong page )

They also have to be less than 400mm from the edge of the car, so I have resorted to the stick on ones

Apologies if I led anyone to buy unmarked reflectors.

regards, Peter

What - SVA requires HT leads to be 'E' Marked? I can't recall if my BMW leads have any markings on them!



I'm sure it's supposed to be like that Pete, but to me that gear knob looks like it should be turned 180 deg, so the stepped bit was facing forward...

I bought a set but I am still glad that I did as they look better than anything else I have seen anyway. Stick on ones for the SVA it is then!

Robin

Speaking of the SVA you must be pretty close now Peter....

Yes, section 7 says that the HT system has to be fitted with radio Interference suppression leads that are marked to demonstrate compliance. My new set that I bought a couple of years ago were excellent quality but were not marked.


You're probably right!

Everytime I fit it, I seem to change direction. I never can tell which way is correct?

Yes, agreed. Mine might magically re-appear at some stage in the future

I think i'm now just a few weeks from applying for the SVA test. I have the rest of the carpet underlay and the carpet to fit, final fit of the dashboard and door capping, plus a longish list of minor items and a final wheel alignment, camber settings, bolt tightening check plus all the SVA nut covers, etc,etc.

After 4 years, my list is finally getting shorter!

I haven't even made a list yet - can't find a piece of paper big enough!

Peter - that little lock you bought for the rear "hatch". Do you have a part number for it? I can't see it in the Woolies catalog.

Cheers

Robin

Sure, no problem. It is a bit hidden away in the wrong section, I think.

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1521-66-bonnetpanel-lock.aspx

Peter

Thanks Peter. I've added it to my (growing) list of bits I still need.

Robin

Hi Peter

I have been using your former but have been unable to bend the plywood (3mm) without cracking the surface layer. Do you have any tips? Was there anything special about the ply you used?

Cheers

Robin

Soak the plywood in water overnight, will be nice an pliable then. Leave to dry and it should stay put.

That's how I used to bend wood while building models.

Thanks Patrick

I'll try it!

Robin

I bought the plywood from a superstore B&Q and the batch was particularly bendy. I had gone to buy some of that MDF with saw cuts to go round corners when I found this stuff. One of my pieces craked slightly but being on the outside of the curve it becomes the inside when on the car so not a problem.
I started by clamping the lower right edges in my workmate (really tight) and then pressed down hard to fit the G-clamps at the top. (It helps if you have a helper to fit the clamps whilst you hold the plywood down) Lots of wood glue between the two sheets.



I also put some very small self tappers through the plywood and into the former to make it 'follow the curve'. I sprayed them with water after to make it 'set'.


Patricks idea of soaking the wood should work if your wood is too stiff but you'll need to dry the surface or the glue won't stick.

There is some more pics and notes on my Flickr site in the "Experimental ideas" folder (folders are called 'sets' on Flickr)

Good luck,

Peter

Thanks Peter

It seems that your plywood was more "bendy" than mine. Good idea with the small screws to keep it in shape. I just used zillions of clamps (left over from when I built a boat)

My ply has been in soak overnight - will try again tonight!

Robin

New progress

I visited Marlin, down in Exeter yesterday, to collect my windscreen, hood and hood frame.

I also got the louver vents put in my bonnet tops. I managed to find the time today to re-fit them back on the car.



Removing and refitting the 40 screws, washers and locknuts is real back-aching work! I will have to do it once more when I get the car painted



I'm really pleased with the result.

Now on with the hood and windscreen fitting..........

Looks nice, that's a job on my to - do list before paint.