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I know its a bit late now but as there is movement in the body before its bonded on maybe the answer is to temporary bolting the doors securely in the shell so they align up and then bond the shell to the chassis.
Then when bonded unbolt the doors.
Degsy, I forgot to mention earlier that I had to add half and inch on the rear end of my drivers door to get a good panel fit, when I came to fit my doors, so its not just your shell.
I suppose we all build in different ways, on different chassis and frames, and the body shells flex and warp accordingly.
Pain in the bum, but it has to be addressed!
Scottie\Paul I agree with what you say I am slowly building up the courage to cut the hinges. carrying on with some more panelling in the mean time photos to follow.
I would suggest not cutting the hinge right through, but like I did, cut it in from top and bottom so the hinge is still attached
by a thin strip in the middle, that way it can be levered and bent
in the desired direction, and the door can be bolted back on for checks before welding.
Scottie I was thinking along the same lines though I will have to cut here
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almost to the bottom then twist it up tack it and see if it fits probably several times.
the issue is that due to a total lack of planning it will have to be done in situ now the body is on I can't get the hinges off the frame.
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so whilst building up my courage I have been making some of the panelling around the doors.
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This should keep me busy for some time.
Yeah, see what you mean, I was lucky in that I was able to remove the hinges from my car after body bonding, (although it was really time-consuming and fiddly)
Had you considered maybe cutting the hinge bolts off to get the hinge out, then putting new bolts in from below and the nut on top? Perhaps an option to ease things.
Or, you could do a "Paul" on the body, and cut a hole to get to the top nut, then glass it back in afterwards?
Well I cut the first one in situ and cut too far it fell of it made lining it up a bit harder but worked out ok.
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The spacers are glued on temporarily to get an idea of wot's needed.
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four 2mm spacers fitted and it's just about there
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pretty close eh! Now for the other side won't be for a while though as I have to get my seven ready for the road and then there's Stoneleigh next week end
Theres something incredibly sexy about the side profile and door shape on a D type isn't there ?
All the rivet detail and aero styling is just gorgeous ...
Sorry I didn't get to meet you guys and girls at Stoneleigh but I was only there for two hours when I had a call saying my mum had fallen over and was being taken into hospital so had to rush home she's broken her arm and hip . So all work has stopped on the car for the foreseeable future.
I have managed to get the occasional hour on the car mostly small fiddly jobs
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making the panels around the door.
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very fiddly to make this end panel after 4 attempts to fit it on the inside I gave up and fitted it on the out side I will have to use filler to make it flush with the body doh! I then realised that when panelled in I wouldn't be able to access the rear of it to fit the lock striker pin double doh! plan c . turn it into storage space.
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the other side
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I have also cut and welded the passenger door hinge jur a matter of lining it up now.
How did you get the "indent" around the hole you cut in the storage panel?
Good luck, Paul.
PS
Regarding the rain channels...
When I was building a rain channel & drain holes for my boot lid, someone pointed out that there was a still big hole in the middle of my car where the roof should be.
Paul
I used a Joddler Can't get the link to work but if you type in Joddler in eBay you'll see what they are best to get one with a hole punch as well. I think I'll give the rain channels a miss and use the moulded stick on seals instead.
it fell of it made lining it up a bit harder but worked out ok.
won't be for a while though as I have to get my seven ready for the road and then there's Stoneleigh next week end 
