MadaboutKitcars

why do change from Mig to Tig?

The MIG is just perfect to use when tubes is on the the car, a lot simpler to just "aim and shoot" when holding tube bends with one hand and the welder with the other. I use a auto welding helmet.

The TIG welder on the other hand has several advantages over the mig (especially whith this thin materal). The main reason is the strength of the weld. When welding with the TIG it is a lot more conrolled melt than with the mig, ending up with a more even weld that has burned through everywhere. The MIG weld tend to build up on the material. The other big advantage here is when there is small gaps between the bends, it always gets weld threads in the bends with the MIG. Theese can come loose an get caught in cat-converter , disrupts flow etc. That does not happpen with the TIG welding. And offcorse, the TIG welds looks a hundred times better than the MIG.

Best regards Andreas

That looks awesome1 where did you get that material/vinyl?

Ebay!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diamond-Quilted-Faux-Leather-Leatherette-Car-Interior-Soft-Upholstery-Fabric-/331243116430?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric&hash=item4d1fa0d78e

Regards Andreas!

Made the exhaust today, 3" it is... But the silencer was way to loud , have to change that one. Will buy another tomorrow...

That exhaust you made is a work of art, and I am jealous!!

Andreas, are those light covers the ones that Chris makes and how did you get the black surround? BTW, the whole thing looks fantastic.

Thanks!

Yes theese are those that Chris makes. I masked them on the backside and sprayed a couple of layers black on the backside.

Dont be that Scottie, you really fabricate your own stuff to! I bet its a no brainer for you!

Well, i have been looking at this old lifter ticking lump for a while now. But finally i have come to the point where it got pulled out. Plan is to tune this one for a couple of more ponies.

I cross honed the cylinders (they were almost no wear on them) with 400 grit stones with my sunnen hone.

Next i machine cleaned the block. Also opened up all the oil-ways and cleaned them to (with a special brush).

Some paint always look nice too

Cleaned and Micro-polished crank, otherwise stock. I didn´t mind balancing it as I talked to a couple of guys racing the miata, they are spot on as stock.

Bearing play is measured Before assembly, using internal and external micrometer. Mine is 0.08mm in the mains. That is just perfect.

New waterpump, and oil pump is opened up and checked, but it was fine.

I am waiting for some new (better) rods to arrive. I will be swapping them out as i will rev 8K. So under meantime í have started working on the Head.

The cylinder head, is really something to focus on when tuning an Engine. A good valvejob combined with porting will open up for a lot more Power. I will not get too Deep and technical with this, but i will show how i do it. There is a lot of math and calculations doing a proper Engine tuning.

So i start out with new (1mm bigger valves. intake/exhaust) and a valve job in the head. So here i am with my MIRA valve seat cutter



The "throat" under the valve i make 90% of the valve seat diameter, both intake and exhaust. This value does not work on them all, but on this one it will be perfect. I bore it out to correct diameter with the MIRA. Intake 28.62mm, exhaust 24.3mm diameter, as i will be running 32 and 27.2mm valves. Left one is bored out.



Then the actual seat is cut. So seat is 45 deg, top cut is 30 deg, and a 60 deg under the seat with a radius that smootes out in the throat. The topcut will be smoothed out in the combustion chamber later on by hand when the porting is done. Left one is cut and done (exhaust) It is really easy to see how much softer the actual turn is for the air to do around the new seat vs the stock on right. There is no multiple angles stock. This saves a lot energy for the air, so it can fill the cylinders even better (more Power).



MIRA in action







This is Intake, same procedure as exhaust.



Head with valvejob done

Andreas I go away on holiday and I come back to find not only have you re-assembled the car post paint but put together all the interior you had prepped prior and now stripped down the engine and doing some incredible highly skilled work. IMPRESSIVE SIR! So when are you planning on bringing this completed beast to the UK? it looks great!

Thank you Jones! Yes we have talked about going to UK, but if we do it will be for next year. Maybe we will attend to the KitCar show/meet?

Todays work was to finish the combustion Chambers.


As seen i use the old valves as protection when i cut the combustion chamber.


I carfully unshroud the valves, cutting an "eyebrow" on each valve. This helpes up flow a bit, but it is important not to go wild and cut away to much material as the flat edges creates a squish area, this is when the pistons reaches top dead center, they simply squishes the gas mixture towards center of combustion chamber. When this happens there will be turbulence which helps the already ignited mixture to blend and speed up burn time, which gives you more Power!



Before i start with the head, it has been put on the empty Engine block. From there i mark the top of cylinders on the head to know where to work and not.

Finished combustion Chambers. (They will be cc´d when valves arrives)

Impressive stuff.

Andreas, how are you getting on with the engine tuning? you have been quiet of late! :-)

So summer came and then went... what have you been up to andreas?

Neat work slagenracing, very impressive.

I am very sorry for a very low activity on the forum. The beginning of summer i was working very late with the car, got the car inspection done so it is now road legal, went on a asphalt sprint competition, and surprisingly i won it! Had another track day to sort chassie out even more, works really well now, very fast car. I will be posting photos of the engine build.

Cheers Andreas!

I like your response... so not a quiet summer, just out winning! I look forward to seeing more pictures.

glad to hear the car is going well too.

So here is all the runners ported, all cross sectional areas are calculated to match my use.



intake port



exhaust port

Head is up on my cylinder head flowbench... Flows at 28" watercolumn





Flowresult...

Checking valve spring pressure. CompCams valve spring. (i use custom grund cams to my specs, 248 degrees @ 0.050" lift, and 11mm lift).



Made these valvespring shims to get the right seatload. (58#)



Supertech 1mm oversized valves



Backcutting valves



Using ford zetec black top lifters, converting it from hydraulic lifters to solid as max rpm is 8500...

Wanted my own style on valve covers, so cut away timing belt cover part an welded the "mazda" text



Sanded down...