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Firstly ....thank you for your comments - I take on board all comments , good and bad ...when you work around this stuff all day , you sometimes can get a bit blinkered ..its good to hear other peoples takes on it.
I appreciate honesty , its important to get the cars right....
I could do a shorter tailed , longer bonneted version of the body , its not too bad to do ....the flip front helps.
You would have to chop and section your floorpan , move the bulkhead , lengthen the column etc. but its all do-able....
A body completed to that spec would probably cost about an extra £500.
THE CHASSIS WOULD NEED TO BE LEFT ALONE AND EXTRA BRACING INCORPORATED INTO THE INTERNAL FRAMEWORK....
All do-able and would be a great car....just extra work to get there !!
If I wasn't all spent up on developing as it is , I might have had a go at it !!
Happy to do a one off for someone though !!
Well, that's very interesting news
TBH I was expecting it to be a lot more than that. I don't mind the extra work from my end and don't even mind making some minor mods myself once I have the main body (such as potentially cutting in a bonnet, for example). Plus my next door neighbour used to make car bodies for a living and has a sideline of making aluminium odds and ends from his garage (having a neighbour with a plasma cutter, english wheel and a sheet folder in his garage comes in handy!), so I do have some assistance if required. And as I said in my first post, I have plenty of work cut out if I even wish to keep the existing body so it's not that different.
I wasn't sure about the chassis, I was just assuming it would need support and that would have to be past of the chassis. I take it from your caps that welding in additional supports could be seen as modifying the chassis and raise issues regarding SVA, or something?
Well, I think I may have found a way forward on this one then...
This sounds exactly what I have been thinking. I have mocked up a really bad photochop of pretty much that picture (although I'm thinking of both exhausts exiting down one side in a similar vein to the C-Type). I would like dual "headrest" humps too as I really like the look of 722. I have flattened off the bonnet a bit and straightened the bottom sill lines too...
I can only load it up to skydrive at the moment, so it won't embed. The link should work though...
That is it exactly!!!!!!!!! but the exhausts will be set back under the door cill and only exposed under the door so they will turn within the front wing, when you see that space within the cill in the flesh there is plenty of room to do that.
The way we are doing this is to slice the G46 bulk head do the middle side to side leaving one part where it is and the other part re-positioned 200mm further back.
We will also form a vertical bulk head in ply with a top going back to the metal frame where we will re-position the pedal box. If you look at my early posts under G46 V8 Mk1 you will see how tight the V8 sits and how difficult it will be the get the rear two cylinders exhaust pipes in, this goes some way to improving this. I don't think you could set the engine much further back than we have done. (front pulley millimetres from the steering rack) without cutting the existing bulk head to render it useless.
The balance in the position we have must end up nearly 50/50 back and front.
Not sure how you are going to get both sets of exhaust down one side?
Also when we form the bonnets (don't know how yet) we may also take a bit of height out of it as well.
I take on board all comments , good and bad ...its good to hear other peoples takes on it.
I appreciate honesty , its important to get the cars right....
PS. Just to let you know some other feedback... The wife and I were having dinner with some friends on Saturday and us men (after retiring to the smoking room for a cigar and brandy, naturally ) got around to discussing the G46 (he's currently doing a body off resto of a GT6). He thinks it looks great as it is and reminds him of the Rover Turbine race cars, and mid engined racers, etc. He said it has real presence and gave you the big thumbs up.
That is it exactly!!!!!!!!! but the exhausts will be set back under the door cill and only exposed under the door so they will turn within the front wing, when you see that space within the cill in the flesh there is plenty of room to do that.
The way we are doing this is to slice the G46 bulk head do the middle side to side leaving one part where it is and the other part re-positioned 200mm further back.
We will also form a vertical bulk head in ply with a top going back to the metal frame where we will re-position the pedal box. If you look at my early posts under G46 V8 Mk1 you will see how tight the V8 sits and how difficult it will be the get the rear two cylinders exhaust pipes in, this goes some way to improving this. I don't think you could set the engine much further back than we have done. (front pulley millimetres from the steering rack) without cutting the existing bulk head to render it useless.
The balance in the position we have must end up nearly 50/50 back and front.
Not sure how you are going to get both sets of exhaust down one side?
Also when we form the bonnets (don't know how yet) we may also take a bit of height out of it as well.
Love the photo mock up.
Now back to work
I think I know what you mean with the pipes...
I was assuming that I would pull the entire bulkhead back, sort of chop (most of) the rear footwell out and rebond the entire front of the floor pan to the back, if you see what I mean. That way the entire section would come back several inches, giving more room for the engine... Although TBH I haven't actually considered exactly how this would work, I just lay on the floor under the body yesterday looking at how the mouldings line up with the chassis and wondering what would happen if I chopped some out
I'm not really sure how to do a single side exit either, but I was thinking of TVR Chimaera style forward exit manifolds into a single (or twin) system, then running that single (or twin) pipe back past the engine, etc and out one side... or it may end up being two pipes exiting on one side, like a 300SLR. Again, it's only a thought at the moment with aesthetics outweighing practicality
Yes Volo , you need to be very careful about chassis mods ....it can change the game somewhat.
Thanks for the positive stuff guys and the reworkings are really interesting....
shortening pans , moving bulkheads , lengthening steering columns , moving engines etc. is all extra work but none of it is too horrendous....the crucifixal chassis makes life very simple in comparison with other examples and it would be game over on a monocoque...
I love the flexibility of these concepts and the fact that everyone is putting in their views and bouncing ideas about is great.....bit like an online garage night !!
I have soo many ideas it just isn't possible to do them all......yet !!
My demonstrator for this year will start off as a Cordite bodied Spitfire chassis to show that the Cordite package works and to get the all important pictures for press and website etc....once we have done that I have a sort of plan to build a bit of a Mongrel ....mixing up the Cordite and Spyder and incorporating bits from both cars on one demonstrator to try and cater for both kits.....
I have been thinking about the 'moving the cabin back' idea. I think it will look better and am happy to act as the guinea pig for Gary's restyle.
I was just wondering what happens to the gear stick?
If it stays where it is I will need to reach behind the heater vents to change gear which might prove challenging. I guess we could fit some king of swan necked gear stick but what are your thoughts?
I'm intending to move the engine and gearbox backwards. It's also going to be a rover v8 which is longer than the essex and it will be bolted to an lt77 box, which is again longer than the standard scimitar box, so I don't think I'll have any issues with gear stick placement if I moved the cockpit back.
That's the interesting bit .. move one thing and and you have a domino effect...
WCA - would it not be possible to arrange a remote shifter, using a couple of small U-J's and some rod?
Having read the recent threads I've had a complete change of thought and rather than trying to impose Merc SLR or Ferrari 401S dna onto Gary's design, I'm looking forward to completing mine as a totally 'standard' G46! Strange it took me so long to get that.
nike - draw me a picture please, i can't understand words.
Not looking to impose any look on the G46. i love it. Just thinking of longer doors and bonnet like my bad paint picture might be nice. Still at the bare chassis. It is easier to change my mind now then when the body is on
No criticism intended - each to their own - Gary's design is a canvas to interpret as one may. IMHO I think it will be rather nice to run an original, unmolested G46 - it will also be worth more when it becomes a classic
Sorry for delay re piccy, have been ploughing through the kit car mags to find a photo I saw. A guy had put together a gear lever extension using two small universal joints, rod end bearings and a length of rod - all chromed. The result was quite pretty - in a nice, 'race engineering-on-display' kind of way.
There is something shown that's less fancy at gearboxman.co.uk (sorry can't seem to do link thingy) which should give an idea.
Could use 'rose joints' ('rod end bearings' if you prefer) as well, or as an alternative, to dial out some of the play.
Car Builders Solutions website has both in its on line catalogue :
If the distance that you need to make up isn't too great you could always angle the gear lever back towards the driver in the style of the Alfa Duetto, amongst others. This means you'll have an up/down gearchange instead of backwards/forwards but it'll look right for the period.
Should point out that the gearbox picture (seems to be) an automatic, as I can't see any way of laterally moving the lever - hence the need for a UJ or two.
It just illustrates an idea..
Lots of other people in same boat.. here's a link to another site indicating a solution...
I haven't been down the garage since the comments about moving the cab backwards because of work commitments. Finally last night I had a proper look at the scimi gear box and stick. Guess what, the gear stick sits on a bracket with rods connecting it to the actual changing mechanism.
All I need to do is move the bracket back and lengthen the rods. easy.
WCA That's very interesting - I haven't seen a photo of a Scim without the transmission tunnel in place showing the gear lever linkage. (As mine is with Gary for re-bodying). I'm going to have to lengthen mine a bit too so interested to see how you get on.
I was toying with the idea of cutting down the square tunnel and giving it a more rounded profile in sheet alloy, leaving the gear lever and workings on display (just for looks), but that might weaken the floor pan as I presume it is a one piece moulding across the car.
I haven't been down the garage since the comments about moving the cab backwards because of work commitments. Finally last night I had a proper look at the scimi gear box and stick. Guess what, the gear stick sits on a bracket with rods connecting it to the actual changing mechanism.
All I need to do is move the bracket back and lengthen the rods. easy.
This may be of interest to scimitar gearbox users.
I have a scimitar 'box in the garage. I was going to put it on ebay, but if someone wants to pick out up I don't mind donating it to someone as a guinea pig for modding... For the greater good!
I have been thinking about the 'moving the cabin back' idea. I think it will look better and am happy to act as the guinea pig for Gary's restyle.
WCA ....I wouldn't hold out too much hope at the moment ....I appreciate the offer but my workload is just massive right now , finding it very hard to sleep , so much going on in my head.......
The Cordite and Spyder variables I am working on right now are keeping me and Mike very busy.....I have a couple of turn keys to produce , general kit production is very nearly full time as well.......
I wouldn't take the current G46 out of production ...a straight forward body swap is always a popular option for people and I think its a pretty car , so producing a new body to fit a modified Scimitar floorpan would be quite a bit of work and a dearer build ....time and money just aren't there right now......
Not a problem Gary. As i said, i think the G46 is beautiful as it is.
Can the humps be supplied separately to the body?
Just thinking that if they were separate I could either bond them in place as you intend or I could chop a section out behind the door to move the back of the cabin closer to the wheel arches and then put the humps on. then there is the effect that has on the frame work.. then there is the...
No wonder you are having trouble sleeping. I think I might come down with the deposit next week (or maybe the week after) to have another look and try to work out the options. At least that way you get some cash for all the efforts you are making.
After seeing the G46 for the second time earlier this week I am now having a real look for a Scimitar donor. I had only seen the car on the sammio webite pictures before buying the Spyder and didnt think too much of it but when you see it in person you soon realise that the pictures just dont do it any justice. Im not interested in changing it (although I think the rounder wheel arches that Gary mention earlier would look very good!) and Im sure that once it has color on it the lines will show much better.
Yes, you really do have to see G46 'in the flesh' to appreciate the concept - the pics available, IMHO do not convey the sleekness or the balance of the design.
Gary must have been inspired when he created this model.
Yes, you really do have to see G46 'in the flesh' to appreciate the concept - the pics available, IMHO do not convey the sleekness or the balance of the design.
Gary must have been inspired when he created this model.
THANK YOU....
I cannot take all the credit ....I had an idea and it wouldn't have happened if it hadn't been for Mike and his input...he has very definitely been involved in the final design.....