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Starting get rid of all the rust and grime. A few more hours with the wire brush and a gallon of paraffin should see it looking like new. I have a brand new water pump to replace that horrible example.
I thought getting the crankshaft timing belt pulley off was going to be difficult but with my machine mart bearing puller it came off without much effort. Unlike one of the water pump bolts that decided to snap off!
With my Puma having a rattle from the front of the engine being looked at (water pump, alternator, cam belt tensioner?) I have just had 50 mile of open top motoring to work in the Cabrio.
Mega-smug feeling on the M4 passing Mini Cooper and MX5 rag tops with their roof still up. Bunch of wooses.
I spent today removing the pistons and crankshaft from the 325i engine in preparation for the rebuild into a M20B28. Cylinder bores all look good. Main bearing and big end bearing shells will all be replaced. New bolts will also be purchased as they are stretch bolts and can't be re-used.
There seems to be some speculation and debate in the 2.8 build articles as to whether a 328i crank from an M52 will fit the M20 block. I've got an M50 crank but this M52 is in better condition so I thought I'd give it a try.
The cast block piece you see here is the oil breather tube that runs from the sump up to the inlet manifold. It doesn't seem to be structural and it is quite thick so I think I can remove some material without too much concern.
There are a few variations of cranks from the M52B28 - the one from the later models have been known to cause clearance issues both on the block and on the piston skirts.
The one I got fit right in without clearance issues, it was from an early M52B28.
I'd try seeing if the pistons clear the crank OK with the 130mm rods as well.
I can't see any harm in removing some of the material from the block there.
Three options come to mind so far...
1. Use the 328i M52 pistons that look like they have really short skirts (practically none at all!) and appear to be 84mm bore - but the indentations in the top of the pistons are for a 24 valve head so that probably counts them out?
2. look for some other pistons - expensive and difficult to find the right ones?
3. Cut the skirts of the existing pistons - tricky and will need balancing. (but maybe I can use the newer of the two cranks?)
Your M20 an earlier type with flattop pistons? They had longer skirts.
You'd need to get the valve spaces milled into the top of the M52 pistons if you wanted to use those, custom pistons is an option but gets very pricey.
Notching the piston skirts has been done by zoners so it maybe the most cost effective option. You can the same time make sure they are all the same weight.
Wouldn't it just be simpler to look out for some pistons from a later M20, if that is the problem? Engine tuners do mess arround with the piston skirts sometimes but you have to ask yourself why did BMW design them that way in the first place...
I think I'm now getting somewhere?
I've got myself a set of late 325i pistons which have low skirts and are flat bottomed.
Here is one (as yet uncleaned) being trial fitted on the 328i crank along with a short 320i conrod. Difficult to see in the photo, but there is about 3mm clearance. I need to try them in the block to be sure.
Took a break from engine tinkering on Sunday, so after watching Lewis take his first win this year we took the car out for its first trip this year.
After finishing threading the seat belts through my new seats and tightening up my steering UJ joint bolts (to stop a few mm movement that had been bugging me all last year),it was off for a leisurely 50 mile round trip.
The car ran perfectly even though it has sat in the garage all winter and the new seats were approved by both driver and the official co-pilot. The weather was great and we took only 'B' roads, we were often the only car on the road. Got a couple of 'er, mate, wot's that car' and turned a few heads when passing a pub with a group of bikers sat outside supping some refreshments.
Still pondering getting some new wheels and tyres this year but cannot make up my mind whether to go for 15" or 16" rims and which profile tyre to use. I've got some rather old 205/50/15 tyres which I expect the rubber to be past its best. I think the larger diameter rims and some higher profile tyres might suit the car looks better and make the ride a little softer over the crap roads.
If you've not had your car out the garage yet this year I can recommend a quick blast this weekend coming.
It was MOT time again yesterday and my car passed with no preparation.
Apparently, I have a small leak in one of my exhaust joints but apart from that no issues.
Brakes looked good on the test machine and the emissions were well within limits.
Hard to believe that this is the cars third MOT!
Not MOT related, but I have noticed brake fluid seems to seeping from the top of the brake reservoir. I have one of these....http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/3_CHAMBER_BRAKE_FLUID_RESERVOIR_FLRES3 and wonder if anyone else has seen the same issue.
The top seems to be badly welded. The cap rubber sealing washer seems to be swollen as well.
"Brakes looked good on the test machine"..................interesting, as I always think my standard BMW brakes could do with being better. But then I am comparing them with my everyday car and I have to remember that the donor car was an 89 car. So things have improved with later cars. Always have to leave more room though between me and the car in front. I am not a tailgater though. Cannot understand why people travel so close together. Any accident these days is invariably a multiple shunt, for that very reason. They are all d*ckheads, the lot of them.
So would be interested if anyone has upgraded their brakes and to what, because of their increased performance.
But back to the main point of your post Peter, yes, I have the same reservoir as you and there is a brown line along the weld and a tiny bit of fluid by the cap. I am not unduly worried though. I have sent you a personal email as I do not as yet know how to add a pic this reply.
"Brakes looked good on the test machine"..................interesting, as I always think my standard BMW brakes could do with being better. But then I am comparing them with my everyday car and I have to remember that the donor car was an 89 car. So things have improved with later cars. Always have to leave more room though between me and the car in front. I am not a tailgater though. Cannot understand why people travel so close together. Any accident these days is invariably a multiple shunt, for that very reason. They are all d*ckheads, the lot of them.
So would be interested if anyone has upgraded their brakes and to what, because of their increased performance.
But back to the main point of your post Peter, yes, I have the same reservoir as you and there is a brown line along the weld and a tiny bit of fluid by the cap. I am not unduly worried though. I have sent you a personal email as I do not as yet know how to add a pic this reply.
Regards
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
thanks for your reply. I think we've discussed the Sportsters brakes elsewhere and I think the Metro servo has limited effect. I think Robin is going to try some different make pads?
My comment was not so much about efficiency but just watching the MOT brake machine showed all four brakes and handbrake working well without any issues.
I got your photo it looks just like mine. Like you, not to worried as the fluid loss is minimal, just a bit annoying that they leak.
...peter
Absolutely fabulous Peter, sets off the car nicely. Looks like you have even painted the tyres.
Only problem is with such an intricate design they will be a nightmare to clean after you take it out in the rain. Take longer to clean the wheels than clean the car.
Yes, that right, they are Lenso's 7x15" with Avon ZV5 205/60R15 tyres.
I'm very pleased with them so far. After searching the internet for the best price, I found a place a few miles from home that had them in stock, They fitted the tyres and balanced them all for slightly cheaper than internet prices. http://www.stsmotorsport.co.uk/ (great service and they even had a Sebring Healey replica kit car in their showroom.)
Just before taking the photo's, I had dressed the tyres with Turtle Wax Wet'n'black tyre dressing. I find it makes the tyres look nice and makes them easier to keep clean.
And Dennis, yes, the wheels will takes some work to keep clean!
But, I'm sure as your 'other half' tells you, beautiful things need a lot of 'maintenance'
Peter
Looking at the wheel details I see they quote an ET of 20. What spacers, if any, are you now using?
Sorton
PS I also wonder how you are getting on with the 2.8. I have not been able to work on my build because of my caring duties. However, I now have another E30 325i on my drive for spares and I hope that at some time in the future I may be able to try a 2.8 rebuild.
