MadaboutKitcars

So awesome

Just fantastic and absolutely bonkers, I love it.

It's nice to see that the dash layout is just as crazy as the rest of the car.

Been trying to work out what the gauges mean - my best guess is that they're meant to give the passenger some indication of the time and distance to the next wormhole.

Once it's on the road please let us know if you're going to any shows as I'd love to come and see it.

Cheers MrT.
Thought it would be funny, 99% of people to just see gauges, but real 'car guys' to see them and just think WHAT!!

Air Density - Given to me by Dean Moon of Mooneyes
Brake - always remember getting my first car MOT'd & being puzzled
Vacuum- my dad had one in mk1 Tina & loved watching it .

Going to Volksfest in Bristol next Sunday, hopefully driven, but might have to be trailered.
Still rebuilding the engine!!

Agent Thor out on the open road.

https://youtu.be/XZ1jYVcBWWE

https://youtu.be/QukshbsNaCY

https://youtu.be/zENvgIVxJQs

Absolutely mad...........love it!

Love it, how do you get away without front mudguards? Wouldn't an interior mirror be useful? Just nitpicking because I'm jealous that I could never do anything that good.

Rules call for mudguards to be in place to catch rain & mud.
Not required, if its not raining!!!
I'm in the process for fabricating a removable pair.

Ordered a rearview with a suction cup, to stick-on inside the dome, still waiting for it to arrive.

Colin,

That is bloody brilliant

Glad you have got it on the road.

Love it

Dave

Awesome dude!

Cheers Guys.
Not too bad, when you consider I started fabricating the body in late May last year.

Colin – I enjoy seeing your updates both here and on Rods ‘n’ Sods.

Good luck with the last few finishing touches.

Cheers, Paul.

PS
I did laugh at one of the videos where the guy at the bus stop did the full head turn.

I'd like to ask about the body fabrication......... 1)Did you use Casting Plaster (I believe this is plaster of Paris)?
2)I've done some googling, but can't find an answer... Is the CP liable to crack if it's too thin (or indeed too thick)?
I'm thinking that using Celotex foam covered with a thin layer of CP could be a good way to make a buck to take moulds off (I understand it would have to dry about 3 weeks and then be coated with shellac or poly varnish to seal, and then waxed to take moulds off)
3) Did it take many, many hours to achieve the good finish you've got using GRP over the casting plaster - did you have to fill/flat much? - I can see the appeal of the method for a one-off because it avoids the cost of moulds

Just a small hijack to the thread.

I have used Hydrocal plaster (not CP) over mesh, or even drywall "mud" and screed it to about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch thick. Sand as smooth as you can and apply a single layer of GRP cloth and finish using fillers, etc. Way away (I also use sprayed-on PVA for "belt and suspenders" mold release. Lots of time spent.

Hi Guys,
I used normal multifinish wall plaster, left over from repairing a kitchen wall.
Changed to a bag of 'bonding' later, as it bulks up better.
The plaster is mixed with vermiculite granules, at a ratio of 30/70 plaster/vermiculite.
The vermiculite is only there to make it lighter, otherwise just plaster would weigh in at about 2 ton!!!

Cold weather, mix with hot water to speed-up the setting.

Place on with a normal trowel, finish off with a surform file and run over it with some 60 grit.
There really is no point it making it any smoother than that. Don't forget, you are finishing the outside of the f'glass NOT the plaster!

Slap on some latex paint & PVA, I mixed about 20% PVA into the paint.

I didn't wait for the plaster to 'fully' dry, as long as its 'crusty' on the outside, go for it!

Cover in f'glass, I used 3 or 4 layers, more in some places.
I loaded up with layers, giving me plenty of 'meat' to sand back on.

Casting Plaster - £20 bag
Bonding Plaster - £6 bag

I used the bonding/vermiculite at abound 1" thick over sheets of polystyrene, with no issues.

As long as the resin doesn't touch the polystyrene, you will be ok.

All I wanted was a one-off body, never done the whole multiple moulds thing.

I guess you would need more care to prevent movement/flex in the original buck, to ensure consistency.

Thanks for the insight. I'm reassured that the bonding plaster didn't crack - although I guess it doesn't when put onto walls
I admire yous work and the car looks a hoot - I look forward to seeing it if you get it to Stoneleigh next year.

Very happy with its first real outing, won Best Custom at BugJam.

Mad but brilliant.
Wish I could see the MOT testers face when it pulls up.

Great work.

Why wouldn't you win first prize? It is fantastic! I would love to see the Red Air hostess types try to get in, and then out again, snarf snarf!

Totally 'bonkers' but in a good way!
I bet the MOT testers manual was well thumbed during that test.
Great Job enjoy.

Congratulations, fantastic build, well done

Cheers Guys!!!
It is a little bonkers.

There's a Manual for the MOT!!??!!
Wish you had told me!

Actually passed quite easily:
Was tested without the bubble, so no wipers, demisters. plus I can drive with it up, so can see under - wipers not required.

Has removable front mudguards that take a couple of mins to bolt on.

Running what is often known as a 'daytime' MOT, so no lights.

Has 3-point seatbelts, that are unclipped & hidden behind the seat.

Rear indicators are 'slightly' hidden, so will eventually change those.

But it actually is MOT exempt, being 1971 VW chassis.

Love it - but there’s no way you can claim it’s VHI (and MOT exempt) with those changes to the body (one of the specific changes that the guidance mentions)

As with a lot of things, you would think so, but the Historic Vehicle - MOT exempt, make no mention or concern of the body (chassis cars only) the 'substantial changes' are linked to:
Chassis
Axles & running gear
Engine
None of which I have changed.
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