26 Oct 2018, 10:47pm
Looks good!
All Aluminium 1957 250 Testarossa
27 Oct 2018, 3:31pm
I'm happy with the door hinges now. That was the last job before lifting off the front end off again to finish various jobs. Those include welding all the supporting structure in place as its all just tacked into position at the moment. I need to make up the exhaust manifolds and down pipes, make some ali infill panels and radiator mounts. Might run the wiring loom in as well whilst access is easy. Probably find some other jobs to do so that lot will keep me busy for a week or two. After that the front end can go back on and be bolted up for the final time. Getting there !
27 Oct 2018, 4:17pm
Good progress, can't wait to see some more pics.
28 Oct 2018, 9:39am
Lucky - Congratulations on getting the V5C sorted out. 
This just confirms what a clever approach you have taken to this build.
I think you can't go wrong with the modern side repeaters.
At worst, it will look like you had to add them to keep an old car on the road.
Good luck, Paul.
This just confirms what a clever approach you have taken to this build.
I think you can't go wrong with the modern side repeaters.
At worst, it will look like you had to add them to keep an old car on the road.
Good luck, Paul.
28 Oct 2018, 4:13pm
The re body way of building a car or replica brings lots of options when you realise you can re body any suitable vehicle to suit your needs as long as its correctly registered in the first place. You could build a bespoke chassis the same as the original car but it could well run into problems with the IVA inspectors. What was acceptable in the 1950's won't be these days !
Regards my indicator choice I think it will look fine against the dark red paint. Not sure what to do at the rear, I could use this style, not sure at the moment. I could cast a pair of rear lenses with a red and a clear section the same size and shape of the originals, just a thought.
Regards my indicator choice I think it will look fine against the dark red paint. Not sure what to do at the rear, I could use this style, not sure at the moment. I could cast a pair of rear lenses with a red and a clear section the same size and shape of the originals, just a thought.
28 Oct 2018, 4:21pm
Triumph TR-2/3 taillights may be close..
28 Oct 2018, 5:11pm
I've got the originals but they are all red so no provision for indicators.
28 Oct 2018, 9:22pm
why don't you keep the all red lenses that you have and hide a couple of amber units inside those rear vents ?
29 Oct 2018, 7:28am
Front Indicators
I would go for A35 style sidelights (Lucas L516) with amber LEDs in home-made bulbs, mounted where you've shown the too modern looking (IMHO) repeaters. A suitable resistance would be needed to fool the flasher unit.
Just a thought.
Regards, Mick
I would go for A35 style sidelights (Lucas L516) with amber LEDs in home-made bulbs, mounted where you've shown the too modern looking (IMHO) repeaters. A suitable resistance would be needed to fool the flasher unit.
Just a thought.
Regards, Mick
29 Oct 2018, 9:14am
This car has the tear drop style front indicators/side repeaters (must admit I would have placed them and inch or two further forward) and indicators at the rear in the vents. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwNgefrTdSM
29 Oct 2018, 7:13pm
The side indicators on the white car aren't really MOT acceptable mounted where they are. They could be brought forward a bit to be more compliant but I don't think they look right. I do like the rear indicators in the vents, that works quite well.
30 Oct 2018, 7:13am
30 Oct 2018, 6:41pm
Aluminium cars are the best with this style of car. There are one or two fibre glass cars out there but they're not so convincing. I was really lucky to be able buy this example. I some times ask myself what I could have bought instead !
Done some mods to the steering column. A couple of inches shorter and a couple of inches higher. That should be about right, I've now made new brackets to support it. I've done away with the Ford column ignition switch and steering locking mechanism. The whole lot is bulky and nothing like a 250 TR. All the main switch gear will be on the dash.
Done some mods to the steering column. A couple of inches shorter and a couple of inches higher. That should be about right, I've now made new brackets to support it. I've done away with the Ford column ignition switch and steering locking mechanism. The whole lot is bulky and nothing like a 250 TR. All the main switch gear will be on the dash.
31 Oct 2018, 4:51pm
Working around the front end I've made up some mountings for the radiator. Supplied with the body was a genuine F***** radiator. Its huge compared to what is required but I thought I'd make use of it anyway. I've fitted an electric fan so that's all ready to go on the car now.
The seats are booked in with the trimmers, the price was good and they quoted just a week turn around.
The seats are booked in with the trimmers, the price was good and they quoted just a week turn around.
31 Oct 2018, 4:59pm
Excellent!
1 Nov 2018, 9:44pm
Finished the radiator mounts , all welded to the chassis and primed in red oxide. I've been looking for the correct water pump pulley for my engine but I haven't found one so I went with plan B. I did get hold of a 2.8 injection Capri pulley which differs as it is a twin belt pulley and the centre hole is larger. Decided to turn an aluminium adaptor to allow it to be used. Whilst looking at this and fan belts etc I've had to go with a much smaller alternator. The standard Cologne V6 arrangement features the alternator mounted off the side of the engine which is no good on a 7 chassis. The smallest one I could find was from a Daihatsu Cuore and is about the size of a Coke can, rated at around 40 Amps. I'll be able to fit that on the top of the engine between the rocker covers, small and neat.
4 Nov 2018, 8:25pm
A little progress over the weekend. I've got the alternator brackets made up which took longer than expected. I'll be able to fit that along with the adapted water pump pulley and get the fan belt on. Also sorting out water pipes for the radiator and bypass hoses. I really need to crack on with the exhaust manifolds and system before the front end goes back on. Trying to find some
1 1/4" tight mandrel bends in mild steel, any ideas ? Can only find stainless at the moment.
1 1/4" tight mandrel bends in mild steel, any ideas ? Can only find stainless at the moment.
8 Nov 2018, 5:34pm
I've got my pulley adaptor back now so that can go on and complete the installation of the water pump, alternator etc etc.
Whilst the front end is off I've also lowered the floor section under the pedals to allow for my size 12's ! Dropped it by 50mm so the toe of even my biggest boots don't snag on the underside of the peddle box !
Whilst doing that little job I noticed that one of the master cylinders was leaking brake fluid so I've whipped that out and ordered a new one.
The photos below show the over size radiator and mountings attached to the chassis along with the front clip lower mountings. That's all good now and ready for final fit. See also the extra small Coke can size alternator, really useful when you are stuck for space.
Custom Chrome helped me out with all the tight mandrel bends in mild steel that I was after. Highly recommended.
Whilst the front end is off I've also lowered the floor section under the pedals to allow for my size 12's ! Dropped it by 50mm so the toe of even my biggest boots don't snag on the underside of the peddle box !
Whilst doing that little job I noticed that one of the master cylinders was leaking brake fluid so I've whipped that out and ordered a new one.
The photos below show the over size radiator and mountings attached to the chassis along with the front clip lower mountings. That's all good now and ready for final fit. See also the extra small Coke can size alternator, really useful when you are stuck for space.
Custom Chrome helped me out with all the tight mandrel bends in mild steel that I was after. Highly recommended.
8 Nov 2018, 8:27pm
Very nicely done! Is that alternator output enough?
8 Nov 2018, 8:37pm
Its only got to power the lights and charge the battery, 40amps is plenty ! I mentioned in an earlier post that I'm making a new loom that has a lot less wiring in it than even the donor 7 had. ie no wipers, no screen wash, no electric fuel pumps etc.
8 Nov 2018, 8:48pm
Perfect then. You should have no worries.
11 Nov 2018, 12:20pm
Finalising a few details at the front of the car then the front body section can go back on for the final time. It should be pretty straight forward to get the car to a running stage after that ! Probably a few weeks away yet but I want it driving / ready for paint by the end of the Christmas holidays.
I'm still un decided about the final finish on the car. The plan was to go with a fully restored look to make it like new. I've seen several TR's now, mostly online and one in the flesh. There's one for sale in Classic & Sports Car magazine and that one has been on the market a while. They all have the same theme, immaculate and mint condition. I would say most are over done and too blingy, the one in C & SC is a good case, bright red with bright red trim, it looks too much. My car was always going to be bling free but I think I can go one better and give it a more authentic weathered look. Something that has done 24 hours at LeMans and a few races at Spa back in the 50's then left in a barn for 60 years. There seems to be a thing for barn finds and un restored cars at the moment, perhaps that's the way to go ?
I'm still un decided about the final finish on the car. The plan was to go with a fully restored look to make it like new. I've seen several TR's now, mostly online and one in the flesh. There's one for sale in Classic & Sports Car magazine and that one has been on the market a while. They all have the same theme, immaculate and mint condition. I would say most are over done and too blingy, the one in C & SC is a good case, bright red with bright red trim, it looks too much. My car was always going to be bling free but I think I can go one better and give it a more authentic weathered look. Something that has done 24 hours at LeMans and a few races at Spa back in the 50's then left in a barn for 60 years. There seems to be a thing for barn finds and un restored cars at the moment, perhaps that's the way to go ?
11 Nov 2018, 7:54pm
Something that has done 24 hours at LeMans and a few races at Spa back in the 50's then left in a barn for 60 years. There seems to be a thing for barn finds and un restored cars at the moment, perhaps that's the way to go ?
There is a Formosa being given exactly that treatment at the moment ....
12 Nov 2018, 7:38pm
It would be good to see that one and how they approach the idea, is the builder on here ? Back in the day I was into model making and RC aeroplanes, the scale stuff mostly. The experienced modellers in our club would spend a lot of time "weathering" the finish with oil stains and dirt effects etc. The results on some looked stunning, much better than a shiny new finish.
13 Nov 2018, 8:44am
It would be good to see that one and how they approach the idea, is the builder on here ? Back in the day I was into model making and RC aeroplanes, the scale stuff mostly. The experienced modellers in our club would spend a lot of time "weathering" the finish with oil stains and dirt effects etc. The results on some looked stunning, much better than a shiny new finish.
Its not quite at paint yet ..its partly prepped and still having a few bits done ...It has been built using original parts over new parts in a lot of instances , the wire wheels are a bit freckly , second hand steering wheel , seats , slightly weathered aluminium , genuine 1950's 2CV door latches ..that sort of thing ..nothing too tatty , just pre-loved ..the paint is going to be cellulose rather than 2 pack and its going to be weathered only a bit , so it looks like an older restoration or a carefully stored survivor , rather than a full on 'Barn find' , a few nicks , scratches , chips etc ..bit of wear on drivers door , around fuel cap , bonnet edge etc but nothing too major ..