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If you want to go for the aluminium-bodied racer style look you can always spray two coats of silver that are different shades (slightly darker one underneath). Then go at it with some wire wool and it will look like the BMW above...
It could end up looking like fifty shades of grey though and need leather harnesses instead of nylon...
Yep, sadly (?), out of work since December 2011 and awaiting G46. Been a little bit of a delay but hope to get my hands on the conversion soon.
In the meantime will start rebuilding my Honda Blackbird which I wrote off on Saturday on the way back from Fairford. As soon as the bruising goes down...
Respirator and goggles. the fan is just to blow the worse of the dust out of the garage and I use my air gun on the compressor to clear the rest off from time to time. I have seen the state that garages can get into if you don't keep the dust under control.
I need to get a proper sander though. The Black and Decker mouse sander works fine but I spend more time clearing or replacing the sandpaper than actually sanding it, plus velcro sanding pads are an expensive way to do it.
Most of the air powered ones I have seen are orbital which leaves me with fears of circular marks all over the body. Tribute had proper long rubber sanding sleds but the y were hand powered which leaves me with fear of hard work. I don't mind hand finishing but there is a lot of sanding and filling to be done first.
Lots of time wasted today with the family doing picnics by the sea instead of sweating inside the garage. More progress pictures tomorrow including my special long bed hand sanding sled. Works a treat. Idea 'borrowed' from Tribute Automotive.
Okay, so the sides of the frame sit on the plastic edges of the door shut, not on top of the actual chassis.
what kind of pillock would cut the plastic away to let them sit flush on the chassis before realising there is a sodding great chassi beam stopping the frame from sitting properly.
Thanks for the explanation Gary and thanks for answering my calls and PMs quickly and clearly.
Top service so far for the whole process so far. Body delivered when promised despite me delaying on the deposit and asking for changed delivery dates. Help people when I turned up to collect the car a couple of hours early. Stupid questions answered promptly and clearly without any giggling at me.
Ha ha. I had the same problem - the resin's stickier than a sticky thing with a special reason to be sticky. Worth the effort doing it yourself though.
Brake Servo is mounted on the bit above the front suspension and fouls the bonnet. I haven't connected it to the brake system or clutch yet so I can resite it but i have a question.
It is mounted on a bracket that tilts it back about 30 degrees rather than being horizontal. This looks like it is a design choice rather than an accident.
Does this mean I should mount it at the same angle when I re-site it?
If it has to stay at the same angle that severely restricts where I can put it.
Gary - where is the servo on the cars you have done? From memory, your later 5a's have a different set up anyway so probably not too relevent but any advice welcome.
I've fitted an aftermarket brake servo to my Spyder: it came with instructions that said it MUST be fitted using the angled mounting bracket for it to function properly. It also recommended a non-return valve in the vacuum take off and a hand formed 'U' bend to trap petrol in the vacuum hose.