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The way I understand it though, whichever method of paint application you choose it's the preparation of the body, getting it completely smooth beforehand, that determines the finished look. I have a feeling some big roundels will hide a multitude of sins though...
I couldn't agree more!
I was in the same position as you and from the lessons i learnt I'd say the most ones are:
Get a separate pressure regulator/water trap on your air line and don't just rely on the one on the compressor.
Buy lots of the correct grades of sandpaper
A small palm/hand sander is essential for the curves on the Spyder (my B&D Mouse did a sterling job and then blew up right at the end )
Buy a few cheap painters overalls and face masks!
No matter how well you cover things, dust will get EVERYWHERE
Take your time.
Even after all of that, my shell still has marks and minor cracks (ignoring the big one on the bonnet which will be repaired) which initially i was very self conscious about and wanted to repair, but the more i meet other kit/classic car people the more i agree with what GaryH says and that they are just part of the 'character' of the car
I was in the same position as you and from the lessons i learnt I'd say the most ones are:
Get a separate pressure regulator/water trap on your air line and don't just rely on the one on the compressor.
Buy lots of the correct grades of sandpaper
A small palm/hand sander is essential for the curves on the Spyder (my B&D Mouse did a sterling job and then blew up right at the end )
Buy a few cheap painters overalls and face masks!
No matter how well you cover things, dust will get EVERYWHERE
Take your time.
Even after all of that, my shell still has marks and minor cracks (ignoring the big one on the bonnet which will be repaired) which initially i was very self conscious about and wanted to repair, but the more i meet other kit/classic car people the more i agree with what GaryH says and that they are just part of the 'character' of the car
Thanks for the tips DC.
1/ Water trap is ordered.
2/ Will buy sandpaper shortly. I'm looking at 80, 400 and 600 grade, and will be using it dry as the internet research I've conduced suggests that a bare fibreglass shell that isn't gel coated it will absorb water if the paper's used wet, which will lead to problems with the paint later (feel free to discuss/disagree).
3/ Bought a B&D sanding mouse about two weeks ago, it's awsome!
4/ Will order a pack of disposable overalls before starting and I already have a couple of decent painter's masks.
5/ Dust already is everywhere and I've barely started the sanding.
6/ It's already taken me over a year to get my car to the stage I have so taking my time should be a breeze!
I'm not looking to achieve a mirror finish on mine - I'm just hoping it won't look like a chimp painted it.
I think it was from the Goodwood site? I have never seen one in the flesh. I stood on chassis and nothing moved, I know thats how Pat checked his welding... It really has been a big job, and a nuisance travelling to garage, but i will get there?
I would not worry one bit. Its no different than repairing any other rusty bit. You have put a new bracket in the same place as the old. I would be very impressed if he even noticed it on the inspection!
I tried the frame on this afternoon, and it seems to fit apart from the 2 bars for the gearbox tunnel. So i will be taking those off anyway and building my own. I hdn't realised what a tight fit i would be... other people my size seem to be getting ok?
I feel like i want to have one arm over the edge? I am tempted to change body slightly like on the TR3 i think where the door drops away at an angle? Also not sure if i will get low enough, so i might raise hump a bit?
just need to give the chassis one blast and start spraying chassis.
The first time I knew it would be tight was when someone one this forum pointed out I couldn't use my Spitfire seats, or the brand new leather seat covers that came with my donor.
Out of interest, what size are you?
I get the feeling that at I'm 5' 8", I will make a good Sammio 'jockey'.
Either way things look like they are coming together nicely for you.
Evening Paul, my seats are supposedly very early Herald seats with a rounded back. There is a picture of the on my blog if you want to look at. They seem very narrow and i think it will be the height that i need to alter. I only put some pieces of wood across the chassis to sit on. About a year into the build... not every week, i would never get away with it.
I feel like i want to have one arm over the edge? I am tempted to change body slightly like on the TR3 i think where the door drops away at an angle? Also not sure if i will get low enough, so i might raise hump a bit?
Just stop doing a Fangio impression!
Fangio was quite short with shortish arms in proportion and so adopted a straight armed driving style (that Sterling Moss admits he copied).
You get better control with bent arms and it's usually more comfortable.
I'm 6'2" and mine is lovely to drive and i very rarely put my arm on the top of the edge, unless i'm posing at traffic lights!
Then again I will admit that the seats are bolted in place specifically for how i want to sit/drive, so others have a bit of an issue getting comfortable <cough>SWMBO</cough>. But then again it's _my_ car and i built it for me!
I've yet to get a photo of me in the car so i'll try and sort one over the next few days.
I don't feel like i stick up too much, but i may be mistaken. I'd have to re-check my build thread to see how much i dropped my seats, but i did want comfy seats with a bit of padding to make up for the hard suspension so i reckon i could probably go down another inch or so if i wanted to "do a skippy"
Most shapes 'could' be accommodated in the shell as long as you are handy (or are prepared to be) with fibreglass and filler but be aware that the Spyder frame would also need fettling to clear the modified side shape.
Very pretty. you'll need some 1mm cutting disks, a welder and some fibreglass, but it's easily do-able!
That said..... could i suggest that you possibly try and spend some time playing with a finished Spyder before you go too drastic just to see how comfortable you are getting in/out and how exposed you would be in a 'normal' one, just to make sure that you're comfortable with removing all that extra side protection/shielding!
)
Well, i have castors... with all the new metalwork it was getting a bit heavy to lift and i don't want to scratch it!
eep: